Finishing my 2-week non-stop holiday eating spree, the final one I am visiting is my favourite Chinese restaurant Man Wah, located in Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong. As it is the New Year Eve, there are two seatings and I have reserved the first one starting at 6pm, also to avoid the big crowd in Central as there will be shows and countdown on the night.
Seated at the same table we are assigned every time, it is sad to hear the manager, who has looked after us in the last few years, is moving to another restaurant of the hotel, but we are also happy that he is having the opportunity to work and grow his experience in other cuisine, as part of the group’s internal people development program apparently.
I start off with a glass of Champagne Jacquesson Cuvee 746 Extra-Brut NV ($348). The champagne is very crisp with bright acidity, highly refreshing, with a nice citrus and floral nose, baked bread and minerality.
For appetizers we start with Marinated Jellyfish Head with Spring Onion Oil 蔥油海蜇頭 ($288). The crunchy jellyfish head is thick and large, trimmed to a disc-shaped which looks to me like a large gold coin. Marinated with fragrant spring onion oil, it is rich in aromas and a very good one to begin the meal.
Then comes a must-order in my opinion. Deep-fried Matsutake Mushroom Pudding 太史松茸戈渣 ($390) is a specialty from the chef and is not available for most restaurants. The golden-brown pudding is deep-fried perfectly, with a crisp skin, and silky soft interior full of amazing mushroom and savoury flavours, from the egg and superior broth mix.
The second glass of wine is Domaine Mongeard Mugneret Bourgogne Aligote 2023 ($298). It is a crisp dry white with fresh pear and apple, as well as floral notes. The wine is simple yet versatile to match with a lot of seafood dishes.
A new dish we try on the night is Sauteed Lobster in Superior Fish Broth 極品魚湯泡龍蝦球 ($748). The meaty lobster tail is first baked, then poached in a superior broth prepared from the bones of garoupa, picking up its sweetness and delicate taste, as well as umami flavours, enhancing the overall enjoyment. Together with some ikura, or salmon roes, that has been soaked in sake, and shaved bottarga for its savoury, it is truly phenomenal.
For soup, we order separately. I picked Hot and Sour Soup 鮮蟹肉海鮮酸辣羹 ($348). The soup has a good balance of spiciness and sourness, intense in flavours, and have plenty of ingredients, with crab meat, scallops, fish maw, conpoy, tofu, wood-ear to name a few that I did recall. Very good and tasty.
My wife has Double-boiled Almond Soup 杏汁菜膽燉海螺湯 ($468). Instead of the more commonly seen pig’s lung, the chef has thoughtfully changed it to something less exotic, but equally tasty, featuring whelk instead. With some Chinese cabbage to provide sweetness to the soup and giving a bite, the delicious and fragrant almond soup is also amazing.
Coming to my third glass of wine, I have chosen Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Karia Chardonnay 2023 ($328). This Napa white has a ripe tropical fruit and having seen ageing in oak but has shown more restraint, with a creamy note but not overly coconut or too much vanilla. A bright and cheerful palate with a bit of spice on top of the fruit and oak.
Then comes another of the signatures, Steamed Chicken Skin Stuffed with Shrimp Paste 江南百花雞 ($736). A pure showmanship of culinary skills, the chicken skin is removed from the breast and replaced with the stuffed shrimp paste as if it is chicken meat. After steaming, the chicken juice is used to make the sauce. The bouncy texture and delicious flavours, the interesting experience of not having the chicken but having its flavours, and together with some tender choi sum to accompany, it is another of the must try in my opinion.
A seasonal dish for winter, Braised Lamb Belly in Casserole 古法雙冬扣羊腩煲 ($638) does not disappoint, with the tender and flavourful lamb belly served in a sizzling hot claypot, together with shiitake mushroom and bamboo shoot. The flavours are intense and rich but will not cause any thirstiness. I like to dip with a bit of fermented beancurd which adds wonders to the flavours. Another seasonal dish not to miss.
The last wine I have on the night is Xige Estate N28 Malbec 2022 ($268). This Chinese red from Ningxia has a good floral and fruit forward style, showing plenty of violet and dark fruit of blackberry, and rich aromas of plum. Powerful, and is a nice match with the lamb and other more intense flavoured dishes. Worth trying this out.
Coming to an end, we have Fried Rice in Casserole Chiu Chow Style 潮式砂鍋炒飯 ($388). The rice is served in claypot, with each grain distinct and glistering, adding lots of spring onion, together with shrimp, pork, preserved olive and vegetable, and while it looks simple, able to make this to the perfect harmony of each component is not small feat. Even with a full stomach we finish the whole portion. Unstoppable in fact.
For dessert, my wife has Red Bean Cream 遠年陳皮紅豆沙 ($128). A well-balanced sweetness that is not excessive, there are enough red beans to provide the bite, with also some aged tangerine peel added to provide a nice fragrance. I have the Almond Cream 蛋白杏仁茶湯圓 ($128), delicious also, with egg white and sesame dumpling, and finishing our dinner with satisfaction and happiness.
Service is great, as always, and there is also a live guzheng show, with beautiful music accompanying our dinner throughout the evening. The bill on the night is $6,369. Considering the food quality, service and overall dining experience, Man Wah remains my top and favourite Cantonese restaurant in town. I rate them an Excellent 88 points. Must try.
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