Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Tenzushi 天鮨日本料理

This sushi restaurant is one of the most difficult to book in town, and it was pure luck when I check online one day and see the open slots for lunch. So without hesitation, I made reservation and come on this Friday, arriving sharp at noon at J Senses on Ship Street, Wan Chai. 

Coming up to the 2/F of the building, the outside of the restaurant is decorated as a Japanese garden. Inside there is a long sushi table in the main dining area, and we are led to the smaller room, with a smaller setting accommodating eight diners, served by Chef Horus So. 

The Lunch Omakase ($950 each) begins with a Kegani Chawanmushi 毛蟹茶碗蒸. On the silky-smooth steamed egg custard, the chef has put some tomalley on top, which tremendously add to the intensity and flavours, while on the bottom are plenty of crab meat, delicate and sweet. A very nice starter. 

The second course is Kaki 牡蠣. Coming from Konagai town in Nagasaki, this raw oyster has a crunchy texture, not briny but has a nice sweetness permeating. Paired with a bit of menegi and yuzu vinegar jelly, plus some Okinawa mozuku underneath seasoned with lime juice, it is refreshing and tasty.

The third course is Hotaru-Ika 蛍烏賊. The firefly squid from Hyogo is a bit smaller in size. The chef has lightly grilled to enhance its fragrance and flavours, suggesting us to sample the original taste before combining with the crunchy hasu-imo and yuzu miso to add to more complexity. Quite nice too.

Beginning on the sushi part, the first sushi is Itoyori-Dai 糸撚鯛. The golden-threadfin bream comes from the Bungo Channel, have been aged for five days to give a softer texture. The fish has a sweeter taste than the delicate sea bream and having also more bouncy texture. Seasoned with a bit of yuzu juice to give a hint of sour note, it is very nice.

The second sushi is Shima-Aji 縞鯵. The striped jack mackerel comes from Chiba and have been aged for eight days. The belly cut has a richer taste and fattier mouthfeel, and because of the ageing the texture is soft, with also a nice umami note. Another good piece.

The third sushi is Chu-Toro 中とろ. The tuna is caught from Iwate, and the chef has marinated the medium-fatty tuna in soy sauce, with the fish having been aged for 22 days. On the bite the umami and acidity are very pleasant, with the flesh still having a nice bite. One of my favourites on the day.

The fourth sushi is an innovative piece. The chef cuts out two pieces of Ika 烏賊, so thin it can be looked through, then put in some aka-uni in between. The Fukuoka squid has been brushed with soy sauce to enhance the umami and flavours, with nice gluey texture. Coupling with the sweet Hokkaido red sea urchin it is a great compliment in taste. Another nice one.

The fifth sushi is Saba 鯖. The Miyagi mackerel has been lightly marinated with salt and vinegar, before grilling on the skin to vitalize the fish oil to give a rich aroma and taste. On the top is a piece of kombu, with some kanpyu, before wrapping with a sheet of crispy nori. Very good with intense flavours, it is another of my favourites on the day.

Taking a break on the sushi, we are served Namako 海鼠. The sea cucumber has been marinated in vinegar with some pickled cucumbers underneath and some shredded kombu on top. When mixed together, the q bite of the sea cucumber has a nice contrast with the crunchy pickles, and the refreshing acidity helps to cleanse the palate as well. Nice transitional dish. 

Then it comes Shirako 白子. The cod milt has been marinated in soy sauce before grilling, with some wasabi to season, then sprinkled with karasumi on top. The chef suggested us to eat the first piece by itself, and then the second one wrapped with nori. The salted mullet roe enriches the umami notes of the soft and creamy cod milt further. Another delicacy.

Returning to the sushi, the sixth piece is Isaki 伊佐木. The chicken grunt comes from Oita, which has been aged for a couple of days, with some yuzu shavings on top. The fish is lean and sweet in taste, and for people who like shiromi, or white-flesh fish, this is one I would highly recommend. 

The seventh piece is Hokkigai 北寄貝. The surf clam comes from Tomakomai in Hokkaido, very fresh and sweet in taste, with a wonderful bouncy texture. Simply brushing with some soy sauce is already able to highlight its umami and natural delicious flavours in full. 

The eighth piece is Kuruma-Ebi 車海老. The chef removes the shell and innards from the Miyagi Japanese tiger prawn to make the sushi, with its firm texture and tasty sweetness of the flesh, a clear testimony to the freshness and quality of the prawn. 

The ninth piece is O-Toro 大とろ. The fattiest jabara is from the same tuna of the Chu-Toro earlier, with buttery rich flavours. The sinews need to be chewed for a few times but it is not tough, probably because the chef has aged it sufficiently to soften it. Another nice one.

The tenth piece is Murasaki Uni 紫雲丹. Seeing the chef scooping a thick section of the purple sea urchin to put in the nori with shari already got our mouths watering, and its sweet taste, melting in the mouth texture, are truly phenomenal. The producer is a very famous one apparently as I have seen many good sushi restaurants all also using sea urchin from this same one. Very good. 

Coming to the end of the sushi, the chef prepares the Negitoro and Sawara Temaki 手巻. Apart from the minced tuna, he added Japanese Spanish mackerel to give further sweetness, with also leek, sesame and pickled daikon to give a bit of crunchy bite and acidity to balance the rich and fatty tuna and Spanish mackerel. An explosion of umami and it is so good I am tempted to order another one. 

The soup is Osumashi, the Japanese clear soup like consommé. With a delicious and umami-rich broth, made from katsuobushi and kombu, there are some finely chopped menegi with a piece of akagai. Filling the stomach with the warmth and comfort, it is a rewarding closing before the dessert.

Dessert is the homemade Wagashi 和菓子, with the mochi very soft but also having a nice bite, filling with a paste made from roasted Ibaraki-grown sweet potato. Not too sweet and a nice finale to the very satisfying and fantastic lunch, worthy of me taking a day off to enjoy. 

Service is very good, with the staff all friendly and attentive. While the chef is busy serving all the eight diners, he explains the ingredients and I hope next time he has more time to converse with us on the food, as I want to learn more their specialty in ageing. The bill on the day is $2,728 including three sake servings, and in my opinion is of great value. I look forward to returning in August to try their dinner service.  

Wineshark Cooking Class - Stir-fried Garoupa Fillet with Broccoli and Yellow Chinese Chives 西蘭花韭黃炒斑球

Ingredients (for 4):

• Garoupa - 8 slices
• Broccoli - 1 
• Chinese chives - 60 g
• Ginger - 2 slices
• Red chili - 1
• Sugar - 1/2 tsp + 1/2 tsp
• Cooked oil - 1/2 tsp + 1/2 tsp
• Tapioca starch - 1 tsp
• Salt - 1/2 tsp

Procedures:

1. Cut the broccoli into small pieces. Soak in water with some coarse salt and white vinegar for 30 minutes.

2. Cut the Chinese chives into sections. Cut the ginger into slices.

3. Cut the red chili into thin strips.

4. Blanch the broccoli in boiling water. When it boils again, add 1/2 tsp of sugar to remove the bitter taste. Then add 1/2 tsp of salt and 1/2 tsp of cooked oil. Remove.

5. Marinate the garoupa with 1/2 tsp of sugar, 1/2 tsp of cooked oil and 1 tsp of tapioca starch. When mixed well, add 1/2 tsp of salt.

6. Heat the wok with oil, then add in the garoupa to stir-fry.

7. Add the ginger slices. Continue to stir-fry.

8. Add in the Chinese chives to stir-fry briefly, then add in the broccoli. Season with some sugar and salt.

9. Serve with the red chili scattered on top. 

Wineshark Cooking Class - Pork Shin Soup with Xia Ku Cao and Dried Mussels 夏枯草淡菜煲豬腱

Ingredients (for 4):

• Xia Ku Cao - 40 g
• Dried mussels - 120 g
• Abalone shell - 80 g
• Pork shin - 450 g
• Candied dates - 4
• Dried tangerine peel - 1 slice

Procedures:

1. Rinse the Xia Ku Cao and drain well.

2. Rinse the abalone shell and then put in a tea bag.

3. Soak the dried mussels and changes the water a few times until it is clear. Drain off. 

4. Rinse the candied dates. 

5. Soak the dried tangerine peel until softened, then scrap the mucus on the inside with a knife. 

6. Rinse the pork shin.

7. Blanch the pork shin in boiling water.

8. Drain and slice a few cuts on the surface.

9. Boil water in the pot, then put in the bagged abalone shell and candied dates. Bring to boil.

10. Heat the pan with oil and then pan-fry the dried mussels until fragrant. Remove.

11. Heat the pan with oil and then pan-fry the pork shin on one side.

12. Flip it over and continue to pan-fry on the other side. Then pour in some hot water to wash away the oil, then remove.

13. Put the pork shin and dried mussels into the pot and boil for 30 minutes.

14. Add Xia Ku Cao and dried tangerine peel into the pot and continue to cook for 20 minutes.

15. Serve,

Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Smoke & Barrel

This American BBQ restaurant is located on Wyndham Street, Central, featuring an imported wood-fired smoker from Missouri. The big neon, old-school style logo at the entrance is very visible, and walking up the steps brings us to the restaurant.

Having a dark tone, the décor creates a rustic and casual experience. An open kitchen on one side, lots of windows surrounding give diners the feeling of spaciousness. As the weather is nice, we have chosen to sit on the balcony, overlooking Fringe Club on the side. 

My wife has the American Lemonade ($68) while I go for a glass of Albarino ($88) to start, and the staff brings us the homemade sauces, with the Signature Texas BBQ Sauce, Yellow BBQ Sauce, and Carolina Chili BBQ Sauce, in case we want to add to the flavours of the meat.

The Spare Ribs ($198 for 500g) have four large pieces of ribs, beautifully marinated and delicious in taste, without any need for the homemade sauce provided. The meat can be easily detached from the bone, with the cartilage having a good crunchy bite. However, it is not sufficient warm in temperature, apparently having been grilled before the order and has been sitting for a while before serving us.

Next comes the Burnt Ends Bolognaise ($128). Made with 12-hour smoked brisket and charred tomato ragu, the bolognaise sauce is very good in taste, the ragu and beef chucks being moist and flavourful, with also the right texture to ‘stick’ to the pasta. Sprinkled with fresh cheese, this is my favourite dish in the evening.

The S&B Spiced Chicken ($118 half chicken) is a disappointment unfortunately. The chicken is dry, and while on the surface there are some peppers to season, the meat is bland in taste, and we must use the homemade sauces to add flavours. Unless you must have chicken for a reason, it would be better to try some other roasted meats instead.

For dessert, we have Triple Choco Fudge Cake ($88). The large cake slice is moist and very sweet, with rich chocolate taste. To add to the indulgence, it is drizzled with caramel sauce, and on the side are whipped cream, strawberry puree, and Oreo crumbs as condiments. If you can handle the sweetness, this one is pretty good.

I end up having the All American Sundae ($88) all by myself, but I do not complain. The soft serve ice-cream is not too sweet, topped off with cocoa powder and a cherry, with a few wafers on the side. A nostalgic, no-frill sundae that reminds me of the ones I had when I was still a kid. And because the ice-cream is good, I would believe their milkshakes should also be quite nice. 

Service is decent, with the staff friendly and attentive. The bill is $854 which is also reasonable. While the food is mediocre, the balcony is a bright spot but one thing to take note is that it is a smoking area, and diners may come out to enjoy the ‘fresh air’ during your meal. Fortunately, we are not too affected on the night as we are about to leave when people started to do that.