炒粒粒 Stir-Fried Pieces

Ingredients (for 4):

• BBQ Pork - 125g
• Shiitake mushroom - 4
• Dried small shrimps - 1/4 cup
• Marinated radish - 70g
• Dried tofu - 2 
• Corn - 1/2 pack
• Green beans - 10 sprigs
• Bell peppers - 2
• Oil - 1 tbsp + 2 tsp
• Garlic - 1 clove
• Salt - 1/4 tsp
• Chinese yellow wine - 1 tsp

Procedures:

1. Soak the shiitake mushroom with water until softened.

2. Cut the mushroom into small cubes. Retain the water.

3. Soak the dried small shrimps with water. Remove before use but retain the water.

4. Soak the marinated radish with a light saline for 10 minutes. Then cut into small cubes.

5. Cut the BBQ pork into small cubes.

6. Slice the dried tofu in halves, then cut into small cubes.

7. Remove the seeds of the bell peppers and cut into small cubes.

8. Remove both ends of the green beans and cut into small sections.

9. Cut the garlic into slices.

10. Heat the wok on medium high fire, then toast the soaked small shrimps until totally dried.

11. Add 2 tsp of oil, then stir fry the small shrimps, and then add the shiitake mushroom. Continue to stir fry.

12. Add the water to soak the shiitake mushroom, and when the sauce is fully absorbed, add the dried tofu and marinated radish. Continue to stir fry.

13. Add the BBQ pork and continue to stir fry, then remove.

14. Add the remaining oil and stir-fry the garlic.

15. Add the corn to cook, then add the bell peppers. Continue to stir fry.

16. Add salt and the water used to soak the dried small shrimps, continue to cook until full absorbed.

17. Add the green beans and the other ingredients back, and continue to stir fry.

18. Sprinkle with Chinese yellow wine and then stir well and serve. 

魚肉煎釀三色椒 Stuffed Bell Peppers

Ingredients (for 4):

• Carp meat - 300g
• Dried small shrimps - 1/4 tsp
• Chinese parsley - 1 sprig
• Spring onion - 1 sprig
• Small red and orange pepper - 350g
• Potato flour - 1 tbsp + 1/2 tsp
• Oil - 2 tbsp
• Chicken stock - 3/4 cup
• Water - 1 tbsp

Procedures:

1. Cut the Chinese parsley finely.

2. Cut the spring onion finely.

3. Soak the dried small shrimps until softened, then cut finely.

4. Mix the above with the carp meat in one direction, and smash a few times.

5. Cut the bell peppers in half, and remove the seeds. Coat with some potato flour on the inside.

6. Stuff the mixed carp meat into the bell pepper, using the spoon to flatten the meat.

7. Heat the pan with medium fire, and add the oil when the pan is hot. Pan-fry the bell peppers with the carp meat side down until browned.

8. Flip the bell peppers and continue to cook for a while.

9. Flip the bell peppers again and add the chicken stock, cover with lid to cook for a short while.

10. Add water to the potato flour to make the thickening, then pour onto the sauce. Stir well with the bell peppers and serve.

Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Jang Dok Korean Restaurant

This Korean restaurant is located in Jordan, but also having another branch in Wanchai. Coming to the original one on the Kowloon side, we were fortunate that we came early and also made reservations as the restaurant is quite small and already full of customers.

Seated at a small table, the environment cannot be called comfortable, with the space very cramped and everyone squeezing on each other. The restaurant is famous for its raw crab but since my wife didn't eat those we just went for the traditional dishes.

The first is Heamul-Sundubu Jjigae, or Seafood Tofu Spicy Soup. Served with a bowl of rice, the soup is very tasty, rich with flavors and having the right level of spiciness that you would feel the heat, causing you to sweat, yet would not drive you crazy. The tofu is silky soft, and there are plenty of seafood like clam, squid, shrimp and scallops, along with an egg. There are also enokitake, cabbage, onion and zucchini which made the soup filling and would be a good main dish for most people already. A good start.

The next is Hhaemul-Pajeon, or Seafood Pancake. Fairly large in size, it is a bit too much for two person. The pancake is pan-fried nicely, crispy on the side while still keeping the chewy texture of the dough in the middle. The seafood are similar to what is in the spicy soup, but there are also a large amount of spring onion, adding to the fragrance. Dipping into the special sauce enhances the overall flavors. Another nice dish, but comparatively this one is less impressive than the soup.

The third dish is Cheolpan-Jeyuk, or Spicy Pork on Hot Plate. This one is served on a sizzling hot plate, with the shredded pieces of pork mixed with spicy sauce and onion, sprinkled with sesame. Despite the color, it is not spicy at all. The meat is moist and tender on texture, and is another good dish to serve with rice which is also included, along with a bowl of seaweed soup. Among the three dishes ordered, this one I like the most.

Another point to note is that the kimchi is also great in taste, and while the place is not comfortable, the food taste well and authentic. The price is also very reasonable, with the three dishes plus a can of coke costing $299. No wonder there are so many customers and by the time we leave there is a queue waiting outside.

Wineshark Wine Study - Auxey-Duresses

This village has a vineyard area of 419 acres (or 170 hectares), with total production of 57,522 cases, which 66% is red and 34% is white. There is no grand cru but 9 premiers crus, and the white wines are often described as junior Meursault. It is also the home of famous Domaine Leroy.

It is located on the west of Monthelie and off the front line of the Bourgogne’s famous villages, so it is often overlooked. But the main road has one of the most beautiful panoramas of east-facing vineyards in all Bourgogne.

Auxey became prominent after the AOC system in 1930s. Prior to that the wines were sold as Volnay, Pommard or Meursault. In 1928 the prominent premier cru Les Duresses was added to the name of

the village.

The village is of Gallo-Roman origin and called ‘Aulaciacum’, with the Cistercians arriving in the 11st century. It is on the west side of Cote de Beaune and in the cooler valley position so ripening is not as easy and the whites tend to be crisper and reds sharper.

There are three diverse vineyard areas, with most white grapes are grown on Mont Melian backing into the village of Meursault and directly southeast of Auxey village, mostly facing north and cooler, thus better for Chardonnay. The red-colored soil is stony with limestone debris and a thin subsoil.

The most prominent vineyard is Montagne du Bourbon and Montagne du Tillet on the north of the village, where the premiers crus are located on the south and southeast facing slopes. Clos du Val is recognized as the top of those, and is a monopole belonging to the Prunier family.

The next in fame would be climat Du Val or Le Val, as well as Les Duresses bothering Monthelie. The other area is about one kilometre to the west of the village above the hameau of Melin, mostly of east-facing slopes producing both red and white classified at village-level.

The white wines are often compared to a lighter version of Meursault and more consistent than the red, with hazelnut and lime blossom of pleasant roundness, with russet apples and fresh almonds, discreet acidity and quite long finish.

The reds tend to be muscular and robust with aromas of small red fruits, with quite diverse styles but tend towards rustic, with supple tannin and developing animal notes with age.

The notable producers include Domaine Michel Prunier et Fils, Domaine J-P & Christophe Diconne, Domaine Gilles & Jean Lafouge, as well as Maison Leroy.

My latest tasting notes for the Pierre Boisson Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru En Reugne 2013:

Bright and clear, it has light lemon color, with wide watery rims and legs. The nose is clean, with medium intensity developing aromas of lemon, lime blossom, stony, green apple, almond, pineapple, and hints of honey. The palate is dry with high acidity, medium alcohol, medium (-) body and medium (+) intensity flavors of lemon, blossom, tart apple, hazelnut and cream. The finish is medium (+).

My latest tasting notes for the Pierre Boisson Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru 2013:

Bright and clear, it has light ruby color, with fading rims and legs. The nose is clean, with medium intensity developing aromas of cherry, redcurrant, strawberry and raspberry, licorice, wet leaves and forest floor. The palate is dry with medium acidity, medium tannin of silky texture, medium alcohol, medium (-) body and medium intensity flavors of sour cherry and raspberry, hazelnut, violet and cloves. The wine is medium (-).

Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Chez Ed

This French restaurant is located in Zing! on Yiu Wah Street, Causeway Bay, led by Chef Eddy Leung and his team. The decor of the restaurant was not particularly grand but offered a comfortable ambiance, with the window seats overlooking the busy flyover linking Causeway Bay and Happy Valley. Greeted warmly by the maitre'd, who introduced the history of the restaurant and how he and Eddy reunited a few years ago to start this, we are amazed by how passionate they are on keeping the classic French cuisine alive in HK.

Ordering the Classic French Menu, the first course is the Classic Steak Tartare with Baguette-Crisps, offered through french service in which the food is prepared table-side in front of us. The waiter first prepared the sauce using salt, olive oil, capers, onion, egg yolk, parsley, paprika and gherkins, and then adding the beef to mix well. On the side there are some crispy baguette pieces, along with a lettuce and onion rings. The flavors are really complex and one can taste the high quality of the beef, without any chewy sinew. A great start for the dinner.

The second course is called Lady Curzon, a curry-soup with softshell turtle. According to the maitre'd, the soup got its name because the wife of the British viceroy of India was very fond of the soup and brought the recipe back to England, which soon became popular across Europe. There is a layer of cream on top, enhancing the richness of the soup. It was not thick but has a smooth texture, slightly touched by the curry flavors, with finely chopped vegetables and turtle giving a little bit of bite. I have to pay tribute to Chef Eddy for resurrecting the recipe and keeping it alive so we can enjoy it still nowadays.

The third course is another signature, the Dover Sole Meuniere. Meuniere is referring to the cooking method where the fish filet is first lightly coated with flour and then pan-fried with some clarified butter. It was then served with a sauce of butter, seasoned with parsley and lemon. On first bite we can tell the sole is really fresh, with a firm texture yet tender. The taste is delicate and some people might think it is a bit bland but in my opinion this is the best way not to mask or overshadow the original note of the sole.

The fourth course is the traditional palate cleansing Homemade Yuzu Sorbet. A great way to neutralize the aftertaste of the fish and remove the rich sensation of the butter, the yuzu gives a refreshing note, also providing some appropriate tartness to stimulate our appetite for the main course.

Next is certainly the highlight of the evening, the French Chicken Souvaroff. The maitre'd first showed us the cast iron pot where a ring of bread is put to seal the lid with the pot, ensuring all the juice and flavors are kept inside the pot. And upon removing the bread (which are kept for us to dip the sauce later on) and opening the lid we were immediately assaulted by the fantastic smell of the chicken, along with intense black truffle and foie gras aromas. It was served with some side vegetables and a piece of potato pancake. The chicken is simply phenomenal, with a great firm texture but not rubbery in any way, intense in flavors, and the sauce has the essence of the chicken permeating with a long finish. I could not stop dipping the bread to the sauce and basically wipe the plate clean. Chef Eddy later came to explain the chicken had spent extra time in farm because of bad weather in France which in fact helped to intensify the flavors of the chicken. No wonder this is the most popular dish and I strongly recommend this dish to everyone.

Dessert is Cherry Jubilee and it is another dish prepared table-side, with the waiter cooking the sauce using cherry liqueur and cherry brandy, then adding sugar and cherries. The alcohol was burned off before the cherries and sauce is served on a scoop of vanilla ice-cream. With the hot sauce melting some of the ice-cream, the sauce is mixed with the vanilla flavors and sweetness to provide a great flavor for us to wrap up the dinner.

Finally serving with coffee or tea, the whole meal was a really fantastic rendering of classic French cooking and service, using high quality ingredients and traditional recipe to create this wonderful tasting menu. I also ordered the wine pairing which included a glass of white (Sauvignon Blanc) and red (Cabernet Sauvignon), both coming from Chile.

I am really impressed by the attention the chef and everyone has spent to prepare this meal, and considering the food, service and ambiance the bill of $3,463 is fairly reasonable, which also include a bottle of water. I told Chef Eddy that we would return to try some of their other dishes in future. Really a great place to enjoy these classic dishes. 

Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Wing Hop Sing

This small eatery is located in Sai Ying Pun, and as its Chinese name signifies famous for 'rice in clay pot', the local delicacy that the HK people are very fond of, particularly in winter times when the temperature are low. As luck would have it, today the weather suddenly turned quite cold and so it was the perfect time for trying it out.

One thing to remember is that the eatery does not serve dinner, and would close by 4pm, and also not opening on Sun or public holiday. The first thing that got my attention was the expensive cars parked just outside the eatery. And after sitting and observing all those are from the customers in the eatery. They just parked their car outside and enjoyed the meal so apparently it did attract those rich people as well.

We ordered two clay pots, with me going for the Yellow Eel Clay Pot Rice while my wife opting for Frog Clay Pot Rice. Both of them were prepared only upon order and so it took a short while to come, but when opening the lid we both agreed that it was worth waiting. With a good smell of onion and spring onion assaulting our nostril, there is also a nice bean paste aroma. After adding some soy sauce (the staff told us not to add too much) I found the taste is equally nice with the rice having a nice crisp at the bottom while not overly 'burnt'. A really delicious clay pot rice!

The frog legs are also good on the other rice, with the meat firm and having a nice bite while seasoned beautifully, without the sauce overpowering the delicate taste of the frog legs. I think overall the eatery has mastered the clay pot rice, with my only call-out being that for it might be a good idea to ask the customers whether they have any preference/concern for onion to allow adjustment in advance. But for me that does is not an issue.

Some people claimed that the service was not good but I honestly did not think so, and while the eatery might not be particularly impressive on service I would certainly say the staff are friendly. The place is clean and tidy, brightly lit and the washroom is also well-managed and hygienic. There are some interesting cartoons put on the wall and I guess they were from the owner of the eatery. A nice idea and adding a good personal touch to the simple decor.

With the two rice and two iced lemon tea, the price for the meal was $199, which for many might seem a bit on the high side. But overall we all enjoyed the lunch, and considering everything it is fairly reasonable in my opinion. I recommend others to come and try it out. 

Wineshark Wine Tasting - Chateau Pajzos

The fall of the communist regime in Hungary had awaken the interest of the great wines of Tokaji. In 1991 a joint venture was formed between Jean-Louis Laborde, Jean-Michel Arcaute and famous winemaking consultant Michel Rolland, aiming to use modern winemaking technology with the traditional methods to recreate the legendary Tokaji of the past, hence establishing Chateau Pajzos.

Jean-Michel was then director of a few estates like Chateau Clinet, La Croix du Casse and Beau Soleil in Pomerol, and Jonqueyres in Bordeaux, as well as the renowned wine merchant GAM AUDY. Jean-Louis, the other major investor, is the current owner, but was in the background only until 1997. He acquired Chateau Clinet in 1998 and then the Megyer Winery / Pinceszet from GAM, before in 2000 securing 100% ownership of Megyer and majority share of Pajzos.

To understand the wines of Chateau Pajzos one must have some knowledge of the Tokaj region. In fact, it was the first denominated wine region in the world, declared in 1737. The area was named a UNESCO World Heritage since 2002, with a total area of 6202 hectares, lying in the north-eastern part of Hungary. The traditional grapes grown are Furmint, Harslevelu, Sargamuskotaly, Koverszolo, Zeta and Kabar, which are also the only varieties allowed in the wines designated Tokaji.

With the grape varieties having a great acid-sugar balance, the region also provides the optimal natural environment for sweet wine production, having the hills and rivers to create high humidity for the development of Botrytis cinerea. The volcanic soils and the process of ageing in local oak further provide the distinctive aromas to the wines.

In the 16^th century the Tokaji wines had become the favour of the royal Hungarian court, and later on entered the dining rooms of many ruling families of Europe. There was once a saying that Louis XIV regarded it as ‘king of wines’.

There are several different wine styles, with the dry wines made from pressing of destemmed clusters of healthy, perfectly ripe or shrivelled berries with or without skin contact depending on the winemaker, and then aged in stainless steel or for up to several years in oak barrels.

The late harvest wines include normal and botrytized (aszu) berries pressed together, and then ferment in stainless steel, followed by ageing of several months in steel or oak. A special type called Szamorodni are made from clusters containing botrytized berries without individually selecting the aszu ones, pressed all berries together and matured in oak barrel for at least one year and another year in bottle before release.

The Aszu wines are made by soaking the individually and hand-picked aszu berries in high extract base wine or must for 12 to 36 hours, and then aged for at least three years before sale. Before 2013 it must be barrel-aged for two years and in bottle for one, but since 2013 the split is half and half between barrel and bottle.

If you wonder what the Puttonyos number mean, traditionally it refers to the number of basket (called ‘puttony’) of aszu berries added to one Gonci barrel to make the wine. The number (3 to 6) nowadays denotes the sugar content of the wine, that can be between 60-180 g/l. Aszu esszencia is the equivalent of a wine with sugar higher than 6 puttonyos, or 180 g/l.

The pinnacle is Esszencia which are only made in the best vintage, with the aszu berries resting in vats, allowing the pure juice to be pressed only from the weight of the berries themselves (free-run juice). This is certainly the most exclusive product of the Tokaji region, with minimal alcohol and several hundred grams of sugar per litre.  

Currently Chateau Pajzos has 87 hectares of vineyards of which 54 are producing. The majority of Harslevelu was planted in the 1970s, and there are recent replanting taking place between 2000 to 2004, and these were brought into harvests beginning 2007.

More details of this exceptional 1993 Chateau Pajzos Esszencia: it is the first Esszencia to be made in the world since 1947, and the time needed to extract the free-run juice alone had taken more than three years, before the juice was fermented and matured separately (60% stainless steel and 40% oak barrels) for four years, then blended and bottled. The sugar content was at an unbelievable 565 g/l, much higher than that of a German TBA!  

And because only the aszu berries are used to make this wine, the yield is very low, with the best vintage a hectare can produce at most 100-300 kg of aszu berries only. For example, in the 1993 vintage there were about 2500 litre made, equivalent to 5000 bottles of 500ml. No wonder the price for each bottle was very high.

The wine is deep brown in colour, very thick and having a syrupy texture upon pouring. The nose is phenomenal, with amazing intensity and complexity, showing notes of lemon and orange peel, raisin and fig, cooked pineapple, apricot, coffee, caramel and toffee. Sipping it brought an electrifying sensation to the palate, with the high acidity balancing perfectly the extreme sweetness on a coating mouthfeel. The intense flavours continue to permeate the mouth for a long while after swallowing. Even though the wine is already 25 years old, there is still freshness and good vibrancy, which can easily continue to be aged for 20-30 years and beyond.