When I was a student, the bus I took to school went around the Happy Valley Racecourse, so passing by this historic French restaurant every day. Known for the celebrity and super rich clients, even when I can afford and have been to many Michelin restaurants all over the world, somehow, I still have not been here after all these years.
As part of my holiday dining spree this year, I decided to come and experience what special magic they hold, to maintain this status for such long time. Stepping out from the car, the staff at the entrance greets us and leads us inside to the foyer, which are beautifully decorated, with amazing pattern floor tiles, nice wooden wall panels with intricate details.
Walking up the stairs to the upper floor, we are seated at a circular banquette at the back. The wooden ceiling, arch columns, and plastered walls create a warm chalet atmosphere. All the details, from the silverwares and chandeliers to the beautiful wooden furniture and wine bucket on the side, combine to offer us a great nostalgic feeling.
The restaurant is promoting its Winter Temptation Menu ($1,480 each), which got options in soup, starter, and main course. Instead of going for the wine pairing, I decide to open a bottle of Pol Roger Vintage Brut 2018 ($1,200), to enjoy a vintage champagne which I found is always a good food pairing option involving different types of food.
The Amuse Bouche is Duck Terrine, with some salad vegetable and cherry tomato together. The classic French appetizer is decent in taste, with a bit of fruit chutney to add flavours. A rather standard start without surprise. The homemade bread is quite good though, and we are impressed by the presentation of the butter, in the form of a rose flower.
The first course is Premium Caviar ‘Blinis’. Each person is served with a small can of caviar from Heilongjiang, and on the side are some blinis, a type of small Russian pancakes, with also sour cream, and chopped onion, egg white and yolk. Making our own combination of caviar on blinis with different condiments, they are quite delicious.
For the soup, both of us have chosen Ox-Tail Consomme. The clear soup is intense in flavours, with a rich and pure taste of beef. Inside the soup are some carrot and zucchini balls for a bite, as well as a touch of sherry, to give its signature oxidative taste. Finishing with some truffle shaved on top, the soup is very delicious and hearty.
I have Hokkaido Scallop Vol-au-Vent for the starter. Using puff pastry to bake a hollow, flaky shell, the diced scallops are prepared in a creamy sauce, and then put into the shell, together with a lobster espuma to give extra dimension of flavours. A crunchy beetroot tuile, with some greens and black sesame, are put on top for a contrast in texture.
My wife has Pan-Seared Duck Liver, with the foie gras beautifully pan-seared, showing nicely caramelized surface while remains creamy soft inside. A capsule of the balsamic reduction allows the addition of the right amount to balance the fattiness, while the tangerine and kumquat jelly gives the citrus acidity to freshen the palate.
To transition to the main course, a Grapefruit Sorbet is served, to cleans our palate. The sorbet also has a story, with the recipe coming from the time before the restaurant has relocated from Causeway Bay to the current location in 1976, so they are serving this sorbet even before we were born!
Coming to the main course, I have picked Australian Lobster with Truffle and Beef Tenderloin. The lobster is meaty, sweet in taste while the tenderloin is tender and juicy, with a rich truffle sauce having nice savoury flavours. On the side are some vegetables, including brussels sprouts, carrots, and baked potato. A nice surf and turf.
My wife has Wagyu Beef Cheeks, which is also very soft having been braised for long hours, full of collagen, and is served on both of some mashed potato and a rich meaty gravy, with some grilled maitake mushroom and pickled beetroot on the side, together with some ginkgo. The better option if you want a richer course.
Before dessert, we are served Chilled Fruit Jus. Manager Geoffrey offers us a game, promising me a glass of nice wine if I can guess the four components of the beverage. I somehow manage to get it right, includes melon, lime, kumquat and passion fruit. As promised, he treated me a glass of very nice old vintage port as reward.
For dessert it is a Cashew Nut Cake, coated with a chocolate with bits of hazelnuts. Underneath is some cashew, with also a fresh raspberry on top. Feeling contented, Geoffrey also brings us to visit the cellar, allowing us to use the large key to open its door and see the premium wines they have kept.
Service is nice, with the staff very friendly and interactive, having some nice conversations with us which are fun and informative, telling us some background and history of the restaurant. The bill on the night is $4,664. The food is nice but not exceptional. Still, considering the overall experience, I rate it an Excellent 83 points. Worth returning.
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