2020年4月27日 星期一

Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Haku


This restaurant is located in TST Harbour City, with a non-descript entrance which could be easily missed. The name came from the phrase Haku Rai Hin, meaning things from abroad, and is the philosophy of the restaurant to create innovative cuisine with a Japanese heart but also taking influences from all over the world.


We were seated at the main dining area, with only three tables. There is also a counter seating accommodating eight diners, similar to what one would see in a sushi restaurant, where customers can look at the activities in the kitchen and interact with the chefs closely.


The restaurant is serving a tasting menu ($1,480 each), and the first course is Hotate / Caviar. The concept came from the Japanese sushi type temaki, with the dried seaweed wrapping some sushi rice, and on top there is a piece of seared scallop with some caviar, myoga and an edible flower on top. A delicious piece, the scallop is umami in taste and after the searing brought the fragrance to another level. The caviar added an additional dimension of savory and also serve as seasoning to the scallop. A great start paying tribute to the Japanese cuisine.


The second course is Fruit Tomato. The ripe, juicy and sweet Japanese tomato are cut and then drizzled with some clam vinaigrette, prepared with Spanish olive oil and clam jus. There are also some small pieces of smoked iwashi, or sardines, which provided a nice contrast of savory and salty note to the delicate tomatoes. Another great dish featuring ingredients from Japan and the Mediterranean.


The third course is Dashi / Hamaguri. The Japanese soup dish is beautifully rendered, with the chrysanthemum petals and the finely shredded eringi mushroom creating a piece of visual art. The broth is very fragrant, and upon the first seep brought a familiar memory back, reminding me of some of the best Japanese meals I had in the country, which we all missed so much because of the recent travel restrictions. The tofu is soft and silky, and the hard clams are also fresh and tasty. Up to now it is three strikes in a row.


The fourth course is Sashimi. There are three different types of seasonal seafood included. First is Hirame, the flounder of delicate taste and soft texture. The chef has creatively added some finely chopped pieces of baked bacon to add a bit of savory notes. And instead of using soy sauce, a specially made sauce was applied to good effect. Second is Hamachi, with the richly tasted fish added with some special condiment (which I forgot what those are). The third is Botan Ebi, and the prawn are so creamy on texture, with the chef using the yolk from the heads to make a sauce which further highlight the freshness and great taste. Truly a nice assortment.


The fifth course is Spring Beans / Shirauo. Shirauo is a type of Japanese small fish, also known as 'ice fish', and the chef had deep fried them to put on top of three types of beans coming from Tohoku and Kanto area. To add further complexity to the dish, the chef has added koji, the yeast used to ferment rice to sake. An interesting dish but I found it a bit under-seasoned for my preference.


The sixth course is Lobster, a sophisticated dish, prepared with a cauliflower puree at the bottom, with the middle layer being a lobster bisque, followed by a corn foam on top, with several pieces of lobster sitting inside. To add to the flavours, there are finely chopped fermented olives with shio konbu, thin strips of sea kelp, on the foam, to give a savory complexity. An amazing dish with different texture, by mixing the three layers and the olives together a great feast of taste is created.


The seventh course is Suzuki / Asparagus. The Japanese sea bass is pan-seared beautifully, with a crispy skin, moist and tender flesh, and nicely seasoned, pairing with a nice sauce from butter and some other ingredients which I could not recall. On the side there is white asparagus along with a hotaru ika, or firefly squid, which is the seasonal seafood from Japan. Another fantastic dish.


The eighth course is Wagyu / Takenoko. The A4 Kumamoto wagyu beef is cooked perfectly, and I like it not overly fatty but with good tenderness and a rich, intense taste. The chef has also prepared a sauce made from the beef tendon and jus, of phenomenal thickness after 16 hours of reduction and supremely intense in taste. There are also some takenoko, a type of bamboo shoot, grilled to remove the water but not overly done to make it bitter. Along with a piece of okra and some urui leaves, is a good complement to the beef.


The ninth course is Unagi Gohan. The Yumepirika rice is a high-end variety coming from Hokkaido, with a soft and springy texture. The chef has cooked it to reminiscent of a risotto, with some egg yolk adding to increase the creamy characters and flavours. On top are two pieces of grilled eel which is very tasty. The Japanese pepper leaves on top provided a spicy note to the rice to add an extra dimension to the taste.


The tenth course is Blood Orange, with the semi-frozen granita made from blood orange juice, with a vanilla ice-cream at the bottom. The taste is delicate and not overly sweet or indulgent, good for cleansing the mouth and adding a bit of sweetness too. On top there is a torched mochi to add some bite to the dish.


The eleventh course is Chocolate / Coffee. The dessert has a yogurt cream on top of some chocolate ice-cream and coffee cream, along with some Japanese strawberries called amaou ichigo. The yogurt cream provided good acidity to balance well the chocolate ice-cream and coffee cream, building a nice harmonious finale for a dinner which was really exceptional.



There are still some Sweets to accompany, including a piece of Marshmallow with Redcurrant on top, with the sourness of the red fruit complementary to the light sweet marshmallow. The other snack is a gelatin wrapping a piece of red bean paste with some toasted rice pellets on the surface. Both the snacks are of the right sweetness. Then the last snack is a matcha white chocolate piece on skewer. The intense taste of the matcha is good complement to the white chocolate creamy note, making everything integrated and a great final wrap up for the meal.

Service was good, with the staff attentive and making an effort to introduce each course to us, so despite not sitting at the counter we did not feel left out on the interactions with the cooking team. The bill was $3,333 for two, reasonably priced considering the quality of the ingredients, attention to details of the chef and the amazing integration of western and Japanese culture. I won't be surprise if the restaurant is to be awarded a Michelin star in the future. 

2020年4月25日 星期六

Wineshark Cooking Class - Hawaiian Pizza

Ingredients (for 4):

  • Pita bread - 4 
  • Shrimp - 12
  • Squid - 2
  • Pineapple - 1 can
  • Cheese - 4 tbsp
  • Tomato paste - 4 tbsp
  • Thousand island sauce - 4 tsp




Procedures:

1. Remove the intestines of the shrimps.

2. Cut the squid into rings.

3. Boil the shrimp and squid until half cooked. 

4. Remove the shell of the shrimps.

5. Cut the pineapple into pieces.

6. Spread the pita bread with tomato paste.

7. Spread the pita bread with thousand island sauce.

8. Put the ingredients on the pita bread. Sprinkle with cheese.

9. Put the pita bread in oven pre-heated at 180 degree Celsius and bake until well done.

Wineshark Go Hiking - 大潭雨後潭泉飛

Difficulty: 1/5

Total Distance: 4.88 km

From: 黃泥涌水塘公園

To: 大潭郊野公園南門

Date: 25 Apr 2020

Transportation:

  • Take CityBus No. 6 alight at Wong Nai Chung Reservoir Park, then walk up the stairs beside the gas station to Tai Tam Reservoir Road
  • Take NWFB No. 14 back to Sai Wan Ho



Starting from Wong Nai Chung Reservoir Park, then walk along Tai Tam Reservoir Road to reach HK Parkview. This is in fact the most tiring part of the whole trail walking uphill. And then essentially it is all downhill and well-paved concrete road all the way to the end.




Continue on Tai Tam Reservoir Road will reach the entrance of Tai Tam Country Park, with a gate barring unauthorized vehicles. Walking gradually downhill, it is an easy walk for all ages, with also public toilet and barbecue sites. On the day we saw a boar searching for food.



Following the main road without any need to worry for missing or taking the wrong turn, very soon you will see Tai Tam Upper Reservoir on the left, as well as the Masonry Aqueduct. But instead of crossing the aqueduct turn left to continue along Tai Tam Reservoir Road, heading towards Tai Tam Road, with Tai Tam Byewash Reservoir on the right. 




Soon reaching the Tai Tam Byewash Reservoir Dam, looking down at the reservoir there are a lot of large koi fish swimming. At the end of the bridge there is a stone obelisk but the engravings are not clear anymore. 



Further along Tai Tam Reservoir Road, at one point on the right you can see the Dam of Tai Tam Intermediate Reservoir. After heavy rain when the excess water would be flown down from the dam creating an amazing sight. But with the current low water level we can only imagine how it would look like.



At this point it is already in the vicinity of Tai Tam Tuk Reservoir, and looking at the quiet and peaceful water in the reservoir brings a calm and relaxing mind, so in no time you will arive at the Tai Tam Country Park South Entrance, the end of this walk. 


2020年4月19日 星期日

Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - ZEST by Konishi


Headed by the renown chef Mitsuru Konishi, this Michelin 1-star restaurant is located in On Lan Street in Central, on the top two floors of a commercial building, with the 29th floor serving as a bar with a snack menu while the 28th floor is the dining room. The reception is on the 29th floor and after checking in we were shown to our table going down an internal staircase.



The decor is contemporary with a simple and clean design, using plenty of mirrors (even on the ceiling) to create the space, supplemented with metal rods to give a sheen and hip atmosphere. There is the open kitchen on one side where diners can have a glimpse of the busy chefs preparing the dishes. There is also a private room as well.


We decided to order the Degustation Menu ($1,480 per person). We were first served the bread which included Brioche, Sourdough and Grissini, along with homemade butter. All of them were very good, with the brioche buttery and soft, the sourdough crunchy on the outside while soft inside, and the grissini crispy. The butter was delicate while some matcha powder sprinkled on top along with some olive oil to further enhance the flavors.


The amuse bouche included three dishes. The first was Akagai, Cauliflower, Zucchini. Very beautifully plated, the surf clam was very fresh and tasted with sweetness and bringing the flavors of the sea home. With the cauliflower and zucchini finely chopped and diced, and seasoned greatly with some ginger to bring further fragrance and complexity to the starter.


Next on the amuse bouche was Scallop, Kadaif, Chorizo. This creative dish took the idea of the Middle East pastry from shredded phyllo dough, with the scallop stuffed inside before deep-frying. Really tasty, the salmon roes on top served not just as decoration but also a bit of savory and umami as a clever way of seasoning.


The last of the amuse bouche was Carotte Cigarette. The thin pastry sheet was rolled and filled with a carrot puree. The natural sweetness of the vegetable added to the sesame and other elements of the crispy snack, and amazingly there is no even a tiny bit of oily feeling from the roll, truly demonstrating the skills of the chef.


Next was Blue Crab, Eggplant, Basil, Shiso Flower. One of my favorites in the evening, the eggplant was cooked in a broth to infuse with flavors to softness, and then stuffed with the delicate and tasty crab meat, with a basil and leek puree underneath. There were also some shiso flowers on top to add some spicy note to the enhance the overall complexity.


The Slow Cooked Wagyu Beef Consomme was another wonder, with the pieces of daikon and purple radish thinly sliced, artfully placed in a bowl with the cheek meat, before the very hot beef consomme was poured in. Mixing them to allow the temperature of the broth to slightly cook the vegetable and beef, it was a great presentation on both appearance and taste. I ended up scooping every single drop as it was so good.


Next was Kinmedai, Spinach, Enoki Mushrooms. Again the plate was served with the food and then a sauce prepared from a nice fish broth with kelp was poured in. Intense on flavors, the fish had a fantastic texture, firm and permeating a rich array of taste. The chef cleverly used the enoki mushroom and wrapped them with spinach to form a roll, absorbing all the nice elements of the sauce to make it highly appealing.


The main course was Kagoshima Pork, Parsley, Viennoise, Morel Mushrooms. Two beautifully seared pork loin was coated with a crumbs made with parsley, juicy and seasoned well. The jus was concentrated, with the morel mushrooms providing further intense flavors to supplement the pork. There was a carrot puree which added a color contrast and offered also a slight sweet balance to the savory dish. Very delicious.


Transitioning to dessert, then came Conference Pear, Pine Nuts, Coconut Sorbet. An interesting creation, apart from a few pieces of the pear, the pear juice was also made to some shaved ice format, put on top of the coconut sorbet which together provided a nice cleansing effect to the palate. It was also of appropriate sweetness. The pine nuts were a surprise as they were intense in the taste and highly complementary to the overall experience.


Last came Citrus Madeleine. This small French sponge cake had a citrus note coming from the lemon skin shavings added to the dough, and paired with a nice cup of coffee ($58) it was a great match and generated a satisfied and rewarding feeling, a great finale and conclusion to a really wonderful meal.

The service was good, with each of the dish explained to us in details to highlight how they were prepared and the interesting elements. Unfortunately I could not try out the wine pairing as I had to drive on the night. It was a memorable evening with the great food and finesse.

The bill was $3,538 for two, which was reasonable in my opinion. Overall the restaurant well-deserved its Michelin status, and no wonder on the night, even with the coronavirus still seriously affecting us and the economy, the restaurant was full-house.