Chateau Cos Labory

Chateau Cos Labory is located just to the left of Cos d’Estournel, on the boundary between St-Estephe and Pauillac, with the two having some shared history. This estate is one of the five classed growths in the 1855 classification in St-Estephe, a fifth growth in the ranking.

Similar to Cos d’Estournel, the name Cos for this chateau is referring to the stony slope where the estate is located. The domaine was first appeared in the history books as Cos-Gaston, named after Pierre Gaston’s family, who got vineyards and had been producing wines for sales.

When the estate was passed on to his heirs eventually it came to the Labory family through marriage, with Pierre’s grand-daughter Mary-Sany Gaston marrying to Francois-Armand Labory. During that time it was already a large producer of wine in the Medoc area.

Her children later inherited the estate but there was dispute on the ownership and subsequently allowing Louis Gaspard d’Estournel to purchase the property in 1847, absorbing into Cos d’Estournel, and providing the best vineyards to the latter. In 1852 because of financial difficulty and ill-health, Louis Gaspard d’Estournel decided to sell both properties to Charles Cecil Martyns, a London banker.

Martyns sold Cos Labory in 1860 to Francois Marie Peychaud, which later changed a few hands again, eventually to Ambrosio and Augusto Weber, who still own the property by their descendants today. The Weber family were of American heritage but living in Argentina, and a cousin George Weber came to settle in the estate, marrying Marie-Alberte Loysel, and having a daughter named Cecile.

During WWII the estate was managed by Pierre Ginestet when the family had to flee to the US, and then Cecile went back, buying the whole property from the Weber cousins in 1959. Her son Bernard Audoy now runs the property, overseeing the construction of the new fermentation facilities in 1990s and the new barrel cellar.

Currently it covers 18 ha, with average vine age of 35 years, with 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc, with a very small area planted with Petit Verdot. The soil is a mix of gravel and clay over limestone, with gravel predominating on the hill where the Cabernets are planted, and the cooler clay planted with Merlot.

Bernard practiced the philosophy of reasoned viticulture, allowing the use of chemical treatments where necessary, thus not following any organic or biodynamics. Much of the harvesting is actually mechanical, which is a major difference from other peers, but in recent years there is a move away from that.

The fruit is then sorted on tables and then destemmed, crushed and delivered to the stainless steel fermentation vats with temperature control. Prior to fermentation there is a short cold maceration with cultured yeast and remuage. The must will then stay in the vats for up to four weeks, and then run off into secondary vats for malolactic fermentation.

The wines then go into barrels, with 50% new oak for the grand vin, before assemblage in the following spring, with the blended wine going into barrel for another year, with racking. Before bottling there is fining and a light filtration. The grand vin is Chateau Cos Labory, with 7500 cases production, and the second wine is named Charme de Cos Labory of about 3300 cases.

I have recently tasted the 2005 vintage and below is my tasting note:

Appearance: Bright and clear, it is of deep intensity ruby color, with legs.

Nose: Clean, with medium (-) intensity aromas showing black fruit of blackberry and dark plum, pungent spice of liquorice, oak notes of cedar, MLF notes of cream, hints of maturity notes of wet leaves. The wine is youthful.

Palate: Dry with medium acidity, the wine has medium tannin of ripe and velvety texture. Medium in alcohol and having medium body, it has medium (-) intensity flavors of black fruit such as blackberry and dark plum, pungent spice of liquorice, MLF notes of cream, some sweet spice of ginger. The wine has a medium finish.

Conclusion: Good quality St-Estephe however the nose is quite weak and closed up despite opening it for more than two hours, albeit of reasonable complexity. The palate is fairly light as well but still the finish is of acceptable range. Ready to drink now but can benefit from further ageing of another 5-8 years.

Chateau Cos d'Estournel

Chateau Cos d’Estournel is a second growth in the 1855 classification, the top wine within the St-Estephe commune. Cos is derived from caux, a word referring to the stony slope. The history began when Louis Gaspard d’Estournel inherited the family estate in 1791, and dedicated to develop a chateau to produce good quality wine.

During that time St-Estephe was not well developed as a vine-growing commune, where the focus was more on the south, in Pauillac, St-Julien and Margaux. Louis however had an unerring focus to develop his estate, but also had his difficulties along the way, with his creditors withdrawing the support in 1811, forcing him to sell to Jean-Louis de Lapeyriere, before buying it back after ten years.

Louis Gaspard had remained in the estate throughout the years even though not owning it, so he had a good idea of how to develop it after regaining control. He later added numerous plots and also purchased Cos Labory in the process, taking up the best plots from the latter and absorbing it into Cos d’Estournel.

With the quality continued to improve, Louis Gaspard started to renovate the cellars and reflecting his travels in the Orient, building pagodas like a Chinese temple. The doorway which had decorations of vines and grapes, were sent over from the Palace of Zanzibar. He also constructed a arch similar to that of Leoville-Las-Cases.

There was once a case of wine he exported to India but was later returned, and Louis always proudly boosted to his guests about the robust nature of the wine after the hot, lengthy journey. The wine had been well received by the royal families in England, Russia and France, as well as other famous people.

But in 1852 Louis Gaspard was once again in financial difficulties and had to sell his estate, and died one year later, which was two years before the estate got its second growth status in the 1855 classification. The new owner Charles Cecil Martyn did not live in the estate, but appointed Jerome Chiapella, the proprietor of La Mission Haut-Brion, to look after the vineyards and wine.

In 1860 Charles sold Cos Labory and in 1869 Cos d’Estournel, to Errazu family, who then sold it to the Hostein brothers who also owned Chateau Montrose. In 1894 it was passed to Louis Victor Charmolue, who had married into the Hostein family.

In 1917 it was acquired by Fernand Ginestet, subsequently passing to his daughter Arlette, who was married to the Prats family. Her son Bruno and later grandson Jean-Guillaume Prats continued to run the estate, until 1998 when it was sold to the Merlaut family, the owners of the Taillan Group.

By 2000 it changed to the current owner Michel Reybier, who brought about a massive restoration of the estate, but he asked Jean-Guillaume Prats to stay on as manager of the property. Jean-Guillaume Prats left Cos d’Estournel in 2013, replaced by Aymeric de Gironde.

The soil is the typical gravel which peppers the left bank of the Gironde. There are 70 ha of vineyards divided into 30 parcels, with 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot. The Cabernet Sauvignon is concentrated on the west of the vineyards with more well-drained gravel slopes, while the Merlot is planted on the eastern edge where there are limestone bedrocks beneath the gravels.

The estate is located at the southernmost of St-Estephe, just a few minutes from Lafite-Rothschild. The planting density is 8000-10000 vines per ha, with an average age of 35 years. Only those more than 20 years will be used to make the grand vin, with the rest going to the second wine Les Pagodes de Cos.

Manually harvest, the grapes are fermented in concrete vats for the grand vin, stainless steel vats with temperature control for the second wine. The malolactic fermentation happens in new barrels of 60% to 100%, depending on the vintage. Total production is around 200000 bottles for the grand vin, and 130000 bottles for the second wine, with also a white under the same label starting from the 2005 vintage.

I have recently tasted the 2004 vintage of the grand vin and the 2006 vintage of the second wine. Below are my tasting notes:

Very good quality St-Estephe of medium ruby color, the wine has a fairly intense nose, showing good complexity of youthful aromas of black cherry and blackcurrant, liquorice, cream, cedar, graphite, stem, mocha. It is still very young on the nose. Medium in acidity, the tannin is ripe and silky, the fairly full-bodied wine has a good concentration on palate, with blackcurrant and dark plum, stem, liquorice and cedar notes. The finish is fairly long. Overall a very nice wine but personally it lacks the unique something to make it special. Ready to drink now though can benefit from further ageing of another 6-8 years.

Good quality St-Estephe of medium ruby color with garnet rims, the wine has a fairly concentrated nose, showing developing and quite complex characters of blackberry and blackcurrant, liquorice, stem, toast, chocolate, pencil lead and savory. Medium in acidity, the tannin is ripe and velvety, the wine is fairly full-bodied with good intensity on the palate, showing flavors of blackcurrant, dark plum and blackberry, chocolate, liquorice, cedar and leather. With a fairly long finish, it is ready to drink now but can benefit from further ageing of another 3-5 years.

Chateau de Pez

Pez is a small village in St-Estephe, home to a number of Cru Bourgeois properties, including the chateau featuring here – Chateau de Pez. The history of the estate was dated back to at least the 15^th century, making it one of the oldest in St-Estephe along with Calon-Segur.

In 1452 it was under the ownership of Jean de Briscos, and by 1526 it was named Ducos, and was subsequently acquired into the hands of Jean de Pontac in 1585. The Pontac family had a long association with Chateau Haut-Brion and Jean was credited as establishing viticulture in Chateau de Pez.

The estate came to Marquis d’Aulede and then Count de Fumel in the later years and during the revolution it was confiscated by the citizens and sold, followed by many change of hands from a number of different owners.

In late 20^th century it was sold again, to Rouzauds of Roederer, who own also the famous champagne business along with some other chateaux in Bordeaux. The purchase was done in 1995, and the family also owned Chateau Haut-Beausejour in St-Estephe.

Totaling 39 ha, the vineyards are located on a plateau just to the west of the village of St-Estephe. The soil is typically gravel sitting on a limestone bedrock. The vines are trained in double Guyot system, at a density of 6500 vines per ha. Average age of vine is 25 years, with 48% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot and 1% Malbec, but the latter two often did not appear in the blend.

The yield is 32 hl/ha (referencing 2010 vintage), well under the limit of the appellation. Upon harvest, the grapes are first destemmed, and then ferment for about 20-30 days, before going into oak barrels for 12-18 months. Blending happens after the harvest, with 40% new wood, 40% one year-old wood and 20% two year-old wood used.

With racking every three months, the wine is fined with egg white after one year, and then bottle without filtration. Total production is about 10000 to 12500 cases per year, without any second wine.

I have recently tasted the 2006 vintage and below is my tasting note:

Good quality St-Estephe of medium ruby color, with an intense nose of good complexity, showing developing aromas of blackberry and cassis, liquorice, savory and tobacco, cedar, cocoa, cream and earth. Medium in acidity, the tannin is ripe and silky. The medium-bodied wine has a more simple palate, reasonably concentrated, showing flavors of blackberry and dark plum, liquorice and cedar. Overall in balance and having a reasonably long finish, it is ready to drink now though can benefit from further ageing of another 3-5 years.

Chateau Laville Haut-Brion

Chateau Laville Haut-Brion, along with La Tour Haut-Brion, became part of the La Mission Haut-Brion family now, under the empire of the American Dillon family. It is now commercialized as the white wine of La Mission Haut-Brion, with the last vintage under the original name being 2008.

The birth of the wine came through the fusion of two separate vineyards, Clos Laville and La Mission Haut-Brion blanc. Although it is now under the same ownership as La Mission Haut-Brion and Haut-Brion, the history of this estate actually began in the early 17^th century when it was owned by Marie de Laville, the wealthy widow of a Bordeaux magistrate, Sir de Queyrac.

The wine was known as Terrefort then, and after that it was passed to her brother Bertrand and then to his son Arnaud, followed by his daughter Marguerite. It came to her niece Helaine and in 1717 it was sold to Bernard Gaussens, renaming it officially to Clos Laville.

It was then bought and sold several times, eventually coming to Pierre-David Bouscasse in 1825. All the wine produced up till then was red. The Bouscasse family continued to hold on the estate till 1912, when it was acquired by a barrel merchant named Leopold Bibonne, during which the first white grape varieties were believed to be planted.

In 1931 a merchant called Frederic-Otto Woltner acquired Clos Laville. Woltner also owned La Mission and La Tour Haut-Brion, effectively uniting the vineyards for the first time. The white wine was immediately integrated into La Mission blanc, resulting in the first vintage of Chateau Laville Terroir du Haut-Brion, which was renamed to Chateau Laville Haut-Brion in 1934.

In 1983 the Woltner family sold it to Clarence Dillon, who also acquired La Mission Haut-Brion, beginning the current chapter of the property.

The vineyard was directly contiguous with La Mission Haut-Brion, a 3.5 ha plot of gravelly clay soils on chalk sand. The vines are averaging 50 years, with 70% Semillon, 27% Sauvignon Blanc, 3% Muscadelle.

Manually harvested, the grapes are sorted on the table before fermented, which started in stainless steel and completed in 50% new oak barrels, with the lees rested for about 15 months. The wine is fined with egg white before bottling. The grand vin is typically produced at only 500-700 cases per year but no second wine is produced.

I have recently tasted the 1999 vintage and below is my tasting note:

Good quality Pessac-Leognan white of medium gold color, the wine has an intense nose of reasonable complexity, showing developing aromas of honeysuckle, apricot and peach, cream, honey, lanolin and wax, and some sherry aromas, which was gone after airing for a while. The palate is of medium acidity, in balance, with good, medium-bodied structure and also showing intense flavors of honeysuckle, ripe pear, smoke, butter, honey. The finish is exceptionally long, but overall I think it is a bit too hollow on the nose and palate, a bit disappointing given its prestige status. It is ready to drink now though can benefit from further ageing of another 2-3 years.

Chateau Destieux

Chateau Destieux has its name evolved from the French word ‘des yeux’ which means ‘of the eyes’, referring to the extensive view from the chateau. It is located on the topmost heights of St-Emilion, right next to Laroque.

8 ha in size, this estate has been under the Dauriac family for more than thirty years. It was acquired by Madame Dauriac in 1971, the mother of the current owner Christian Dauriac. With the help of his friend Michel Rolland, the vathouse was entirely restructured and the estate renovated.

The soil is chalky-clay, with the vines 40-50 years old, planted with 66% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Franc, 17% Cabernet Sauvignon. Green harvesting and leaf-thinning are practiced.

Manually harvested, the grapes are sorted before de-stemming, and then sorted again before putting in temperature-controlled wooden vats. The must is then transferred to 100% new oak to age for 15-24 months.

I have recently tasted the 2000 vintage and below is my tasting note:


Good quality St-Emilion of medium ruby, the rims are of garnet and showing the maturity. The nose is intense with good complexity, showing developing aromas of blackcurrant, dark plum and blackberry, liquorice, leather, dark chocolate, cedar, cigar box and earth. Medium in acidity, the tannin is ripe and velvety, with medium body and reasonably concentrated flavors, showing blackberry and dark plum, cedar, cinnamon, cocoa. Having a medium finish, the wine is ready to drink now but can benefit from further ageing of another 4-6 years.

Chateau Clinet

Chateau Clinet is a wine that used to be held in high regard in the early 19^th century. During that time it was in the hands of the Arnaud family who also owned Petrus, and the wine was selling at a high price already. Then it was acquired by the Constant family in 1860s, who also owned La Fleur-Petrus. The estate changed hands a few times later on, and unfortunately the quality deteriorated.

In the turn of the century the estate saw some stability in ownership, and during that time it was under M. Lugnot. When Lugnot senior died he passed the estate to his daughter, and the property came to the Audy family by marriage. George Audy then passed to his daughter and together with her husband Jean-Michel Arcaute, they steered Clinet to its current position.

Originally there was a higher proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon, accounting for 25% of the vineyard, but in 1980 Arcaute chose to plant a higher proportion of Merlot. Arcaute recruited his friend Michel Rolland in 1985, quality continued to improve and the wines subsequently also received many strong praises.

In the vineyard green harvesting and leaf-thinning were adopted, with the harvesting delayed till the ripeness was certain. Manual harvesting was mandated and the grapes were transported using small plastic trays and then manually sorted again in the chai. A second wine was introduced to sort out the best for the grand vin, and more new oak was also used.

Despite the success the estate was later sold to GAN Insurance Group in 1991, with Arcaute staying on as an administrator, but lasted only a few years before in 1998 it was acquired by Jean-Louis Laborde. His son Ronan is now managing the property since 2003, at a young age, with also a similarly young winemaker Romain Ducolomb.

Today it covers 9 ha and planted with 85% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc, at a density of 6600 vines per ha. The property is located in the heart of Pomerol, close to the church. There are three plots, Les Grandes Vignes having a gravelly terroir, closest to the church; Les Argilles has more clay and Le Plateau is directly adjacent to L’Eglise-Clinet.

The average vine age is 40 years, and are planted by avoiding the use of chemicals whenever possible. Once harvested the wines are vinified plot-by-plot, in wooden vats of 40-60 hl with temperature control, for about four weeks, before putting in 100% new oak for malolactic fermentation, up to 24 months. The wine is then bottled without fining and filtration, with about 3000 cases of grand vin and 500 cases of second wine Fleur de Clinet.

 

I have recently tasted the 1994 vintage and below is my tasting note:

 

Very good quality Pomerol with deep garnet color, it got a reasonably intense nose which is highly complex, showing developing aromas of blackberry, black cherry and dark plum, cedar, savory and forest floor, meaty and leather, liquorice, coffee. The wine has good acidity and freshness, despite its 20 years age it is still vibrant and showing good balance and structure. The tannin is smooth and silky, with a reasonably concentrated palate of blackberry, black cherry and dark plum, meaty, blackcurrant leaf, cedar, truffle. With a fair finish, the wine is ready to drink now and not intend for further ageing, though can be maintained for another 5-8 years.

Chateau Suau

Chateau Suau is a 2eme grand cru classe in the 1855 classification, with 8 ha in size. It belongs to the same owner of Chateau d’Archambeau in Graves.

I have recently tasted the 2001 vintage and below is my tasting note:

Good quality Sauternes of medium gold color, the wine has an intense nose of good complexity, showing developing aromas of orange peel, apricot, honey, sultana, almond and beeswax, butterscotch. The wine is sweet but balancing well with the high acidity, making it refreshing and not cloying, the palate is of reasonable concentration showing flavors of lemon peel, apricot, honeysuckle, honey. With a fair finish, this wine overall is without much exceptional characters for one to take special attention, particularly given its 2eme grand cru classe status, though a nice sweet wine nevertheless. Ready to drink now but can benefit from further ageing of another 4-6 years.