This sushi restaurant is located on the 2/F of Modena by
Fraser in TST, and while I did not have visited them before, I believe they have
started in Yuen Long and have another branch in Hung Hom. Unfortunately, both
are now closed.
The décor is neat, featuring all wooden set up with warm
lighting. We are seated at the sushi counter, which can accommodate about 18
customers. In a big C-shape, there are two stations with sushi chef on both
ends. We are served by Head Chef Larry Tang on the night.
Ordering
the Omakase Set ($1,980 each) I also have a bottle of Tenbu Junmai Ginjo
天賦 純米吟醸 ($700) from Nishi Shuzo in
Kagoshima. The nose has a nice white peach and melon note, while the off-dry
palate has umami on top of the fruit. A nice sake.
Watari-Gani
Chawanmushi
渡蟹 茶碗蒸 has sweet
and delicate crab meat on top of steamed egg custard, which is rich in umami.
The texture is silky soft, and not too watery or solid, showing a perfect
proportion of egg and water plus steaming time.
Hiramasa
平政 is yellowtail
kingfish, with the sashimi showing the signature texture of the fish, with a
nice bite. The rich and subtle sweetness is pleasant with a balanced fattiness
which has the right amount of fish oil too.
Kaki
牡蠣 comes from Hyogo. The raw oyster has
a crunchy texture, sweet and meaty. With a bit of lemon juice to season and
freshen it is very delicious. My wife does not want raw oysters, and she is
served with Hokkaido Hotate-Gai instead.
Iwashi Isobe-Maki
鰯 磯辺巻 has sardines wrapped inside nori
sheet, together with some myoga, shiso, and pickles. The secret recipe here is
to add deep-fried whitebaits, for an extra crunchy texture, to the roll.
Shirako
白子 features the seasonal sea bream milt
which are paired with ponzu and grated daikon with spices, plus plenty of
finely chopped scallions. On the side is Mozuku 水雲 which has the same marinade vinegar
to give a refreshing acidity.
Ankimo
鮟肝 is another
specialty. After cooking the monkfish liver and cutting it into slices, they
are served with plenty of scallions and some shichimi. Having rich and creamy
texture, it is much better in flavors than foie gras.
Amadai
赤甘鯛 Roll uses the red tilefish meat to
make a roll and on the surface is coated with the fish scales, before putting
it to deep-fry. Interesting contrast with the crispy scales and tender meat, it
is paired with some homemade tartar sauce.
As a
transition to sushi, a piece of White Corn
白いとうもろこし is served. The kernels are very sweet and
juicy, having thin skin too, with the chef sprinkling some rock salt to further
highlight its sweetness.
Coming to
the sushi section, the first piece is Shiro-Ebi
白海老. The baby white shrimps are very
sweet in taste, enhanced further in taste by the yuzu zest on top.
The second
piece is Hokkigai
北寄貝. The surf clam is very large in size, crunchy on the bite, with umami
seeping out from the mouth when swallowing.
The third
piece is Shima-Ebi
縞海老. The prized Morotoge shrimp has a sweet taste, like sweet shrimp but has
a firmer texture.
The fourth
piece is Aji
鯵, with the Japanese horse mackerel paired with a bit of grated ginger,
with the chopped scallions underneath. One of my favorites on the night.
The fifth
piece is Akamutsu
赤鯥, and the rosy seabass has good fattiness, with the skin slightly
torched to vitalize the fish oil even more. Rich in taste.
The sixth
piece is the seasonal Torigai
鳥貝. This Japanese cockle is softer and not as crunchy as others I have
tried elsewhere. Not sure if it is because of end of season?
The seventh
piece is Akami
赤身, with the tuna having gone through an ageing process to soften the
sinew, with the chef also skillfully cutting to offer a tender bite.
The eighth
piece is Chu-Toro
中とろ and apparently showing some similarity with the prior piece but dimmer color
plus richer in fish oil. Well-balanced medium fatty cut.
The ninth
piece is O-Toro
大とろ, clearly with more marble fat on the flesh. On the bite the fish oil
seeps out and envelop the mouth with great flavors.
The tenth
piece has the chef mixing different cuts of Maguro
鮪, together with onion, takuan, and
scallion, with some crispy on top. Delicious.
The
eleventh piece is Kuruma-Ebi
車海老 Roll. Inside
are the tiger prawn with cucumber, and after cutting into serve size, the chef
puts a few caviars on top to decorate.
The twelfth
piece is Bafun-Uni
馬糞雲丹. The Hokkaido sea urchin has a sweet taste, without any weird notes,
and serving on a nori sheet to facilitate eating.
Wrapping up
is a Clear Soup, made with plenty of clams which got a rich umami taste, and
helps to warm the stomach and digestion.
Dessert is
a slide of Melon, juicy and sweet, together with a piece of Mango which are
also nice. A complete and satisfying dinner overall.
Service is good, with the chef having interactions with us
throughout. The night is not too busy, and the pace is well-controlled as a
result. The bill on the night is $5,126 and considering the food quality and
overall experience, I would rate them a Good 70 points, worth trying.