It has been five years since my last visit to this Michelin 1-star restaurant, which created a lot of interests revolutionizing the perception of Korea cuisine in town, from the more traditional BBQ and bibimbap, to the more sophisticated, tasting menu style offering. Today, we came to Central to see what has changed over the years.
The homestyle furniture and decorations has not changed, bringing us a sense of familiarity and comfort. This time we are seated at the ‘other side’ of the restaurant, where there is a VIP room and a couple of larger tables. We go for the Signature Menu ($1,688 each), with me also having the 6-Glass Wine Pairing ($888).
The first wine is Gosset Champagne Extra-Brut. The estate is in fact the oldest in Champagne, dating back to 1584. This extra brut has very low dosage, with good freshness, sharp acidity, fruity with plenty of white flowers. A good value-for-money champagne in my opinion, and happy the sommelier chose this one to start our dinner.
Hansik Starter is comprised of four bite-size starters. From the right to the left, the first one is Cuttlefish, cut into a strip to roll up, seasoned with salted clam sauce and sesame oil, topped with cucumber and lime zest to freshen. The second one is Sweet Prawn, mixed with yuzu plum dressing, before wrapping the seasonal Korean winter spinach, with a piece of Jeju mandarin in the middle. The third one is Abalone Yukhweh with Gochujang plum, a crisp seaweed crisps with sliced abalone inside. The fourth is Samhap in Pyeonyuk style, a thinly sliced pork belly, with a dressing made of oyster and aged kimchi. All fantastic in taste, these small bites smartly highlight the flavours without getting one full straight away.
The second wine came from Santorini, Greece. Domaine Sigalas Assyrtiko 2022 is a nice white wine from the island, featuring good minerality and saline freshness, while at the same time showing good citrus and some honey notes, with some white pepper notes coming on the finish. Good match with the spiciness in the Korean cuisine.
Kimchi Naengchae features white kimchi from Korea with amazing flavours, with its spiciness toned down by the sweet pears. The geoduck and sea bream add umami and different textures of crunchy and tenderness to the mix. With lily bulb and pomegranate seeds as garnish, it is finished with an appetizing white kimchi dressing.
The third wine is Jinmaek 22 Wheat Soju. This premium soju is made from organic wheat, which follows the original recipe when soju was made hundreds of years ago, winning many awards. With an alcohol level of 22%, higher than the normal soju at 16-20%, it has a nice wheat taste profile. A traditional match with chicken broth in Korea.
Sea Cucumber Samgye Tang is a modern twist of the traditional ginseng chicken broth, with two dumplings, one having chicken fillings, and the other with daikon, to serve. Together with Korea sea cucumber, Neung-i mushroom, shreds of ginseng, and deep-fried lotus roots, it is a warming and comfortable food to soothe the stomach.
Jeonbok Juk translates into abalone porridge, and this dish features Jeju abalone, which are cooked and sliced thinly to give a good bite and avoid any rubbery texture. Underneath is the glutinous rice with seaweed. Together with gingko and Perilla seed and oil, with some caviar on top, the different flavours are harmonized, integrated very well.
The fourth wine is a Korean rice wine, Omegi Sool 2025. It is a handcrafted wine from Jeju, in recognition of local cultural heritage. Made with rice, millet, water and nuruk, it is allowed to ferment for 15-20 days, having a clean, elegant pale gold colour, with a mild sweetness and delicate orchard and honey notes, a bit like sake.
Galchi-Jeon features the lightly deep-fried hairtail fish, which has a stuffing of crab and shrimp to add an extra layer of umami. Underneath is pan-fried turnip, with also baby lotus roots pickles on the side, as well as some deep-fried shredded ginger and kombu as garnish. The Cho Ganjang sauce is an appetizing mix of vinegar and soy sauce to integrate everything together perfectly.
The fifth wine is Castello Solicchiata 2014, a Sicily red wine leveraging Bordeaux blend, but with a higher proportion of Cabernet Franc so overall has more floral notes. The estate will cellar the wine for six years before release, and the development notes of cedar and spices are apparent. A well-made wine with finesse, good match with the beef.
The Signature Hanwoo Duo features grilled 1++ No. 9 Hanwoo beef in two cuts, a striploin with pepper sauce, and a patty that has grilled eel embedded for different texture and taste, with some pine powder on top. On the side is Naeng-i rice with seasonal vegetables, and gochujang to allow one to mix according to preference. Some pickled chili and cucumber are provided also to freshen the palate, as well as fresh mixed kimchi to share.
We also order an additional Galbi-Jjim ($250 for half). The braised beef short ribs mixed with Ganjang, mushroom and chestnut, served in a hot stone bowl, very flavorful and tender, and this one showcases how the chef can also do the traditional dish that we will see more often in Korean restaurants.
The other addition is Korean Fried Chicken ($128 for three pieces). Again, a very common dish in Korea, the chef shows how to do it well, with the deep-fried chicken on lotus roots having a crunch outside while the flesh remains tender and juicy. The Yuza Jang is sweet, with a nice yuzu note which helps to reduce the heaviness on the deep-fried chicken.
Yuzu & Omegi is the pre-dessert to help cleanse our palate in preparation for the main one. It is a yuzu sorbet with omegi foam, made from Jeju rice millet. With chrysanthemum petals to decorate, at the bottom are pieces of Korean pear and ginger jelly, it is very refreshing, light, and pleasant.
The sixth and last wine is Yi Yook-Sa Wine 2024. The name refers to a famous local poet in Korea, who spent years in prison, living in a cell with number 264. Medium sweet, the wine is made from a local grape called Cheongsoo, with nice floral, fruity, and grapey. As whole bunch with stem is used during fermentation, there are hints of bitterness on aftertaste, which are good match with Jang Trio.
There are two desserts to choose from, and we decide to order both and share. Angelica & Pine Nut features an ice-cream made from angelica, with red date praline, together with a pine nut pudding with ground chestnut on top and dressed with a sauce of ginger tea brewed with date and cinnamon. Creative, with interesting flavours.
The other one is Jang Trio, with a crème brulee that has its caramel mixed with Doenjang, with its unique pungent and savoury note. In the middle is an ice-cream, and on top scattered with Ganjang pecan, showing soy sauce characters, and Gochujang powder to provide the sweetness and spiciness to have this unique and signature dessert.
Dagwa is the Korea version of Petits Fours. Yakgwa is the snack made from deep-frying slices of ginger, coated with lots of honey, to offer a rich, chewy texture. The other one is Gamtae Gangjeong, a traditional deep-fried glutinous rice crisp coated with seaweed. Both are interesting in taste, and wrapping this meal with something truly Korean in tradition.
Service is very good, with the staff very friendly and attentive, come to explain each course in detail, and the sommelier also did a great job in pairing wine with the food. The bill on the night is $5,298. Considering the overall experience and food quality, I would rate this restaurant an Excellent 80 points. Worth returning.