Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - JOYN 醉雍樓

The Landmark is a fine dining hub in Central, with restaurants like L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon and China Tang that had been on the pinnacle of local dining for many years. Recently there was a new restaurant JOYN, offering contemporary Chinese cuisine and today we came to see whether they were up to the same level as these other big names.

The décor of the restaurant was elegant, with soft lighting and elements of Chinese design to offer a luxury premium experience and smartly using partitions to divide tables to give a good space in-between for privacy but strangely contradicted by the glass wall looking out to the mall. We were seated at a circular booth of comfort.

Going for Supreme Dinner Menu ($998 each), the starter was a trio of small bites, including Crunchy White Jade Melon爽口玉女瓜, Passion Fruit Compote 糖漬百香果, Black Barbecued Pork with Kumquat and Aged Tangerine Peel 金柑陳皮黑叉燒. The jade melon had been soaked in pepper water to get a spicy kick while the passion fruit had an appetizing sweet and sour balance. The char siu was brushed with a marinade made from kumquat and tangerine peel so there was a nice citrus fragrance. Nice starters of different flavours and textures.   

The second dish was Double-Wine Marinated Half Virgin Mud Crab 雙酒微醺熟醉奄仔蟹. With each person having half a crab, the seasonal virgin mud crab was bursting with paste, delicious and indulgently good, absorbing the flavours from the marinade Chinese yellow wine to also have an enriched savoury and oxidative sherry notes. The half crab was also thoughtful in portion to ensure it was not too much for the diners.

The third course was Baked Half Baby Rose Lobster with Laksa Cream Sauce 喇沙忌廉汁焗玫瑰乳龍蝦. This lobster species was known for its sweetness and tenderness, with the chef putting a laksa cream sauce on top after baking. The herbs and hints of spiciness stimulated the appetite and brought an interesting fusion of the signature Singaporean flavours to the table.

The fourth dish was Braised Dried Abalone with Prawn Mousse Stuffed Sea Cucumber 煎釀遼參扣溏心乾鮑. Unlike the traditional dish, here the chef made a twist, stuffing the prawn mousse to the sea cucumber to give additional umami and texture, while the abalone had a gooey interior and deep in umami flavours. The abalone oyster sauce was flavourful and also not too salty.

The fifth course was Steamed Leopard Coral Garoupa Slice with Ginger and Preserved Vegetable 薑蓉雪裡紅蒸東星斑塊. The large, prized leopard garoupa fillet was meaty, steamed nicely to retain a nice tenderness, with the ginger and preserved vegetables giving a unique combination of aromas more subtle than the traditional way of using spring onion.  

The sixth course was Rice Vermicelli in Fresh Crab Soup with Crab Meat and Fish Tofu 鮮蟹湯拆蟹肉魚腐米粉. It was a surprisingly good dish, with the delicious soup steaming hot in temperature, paired with some fresh crab meat and the fish tofu, and the rice vermicelli picking up the flavours from the soup for good effect. A good way to complete the meal, rich in umami.

The dessert and final course was Mango Pomelo Sago with Coconut Ice Cream 楊枝甘露 椰子雪糕. Apart from the traditional pomelo sago with a rich mango cream, the chef added a scoop of coconut ice cream, lowering the temperature of the dessert and at the same time giving an extra layer of coconut flavours, matching well with the mango and pomelo without feeling out of place.

Service was good, though the staff did not explain the dishes and had missed an opportunity to provide a more engaging and better dining experience. Together with a bottle of Anicca Sparkling Tea, the bill on the night was $2,807. Considering the overall impression on the dinner, its food quality and ambience, I would rate the restaurant a Good 73 points, worth trying.

Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon

Every year we would try to figure out a special place to go for my birthday celebration and this year we decided to revisit the recently renovated, Michelin 3-star L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon. It was a wonderful experience in my last visit 4 years ago, and so it was with great anticipation that we arrived at The Landmark.

While the restaurant had been renovated, the concept of the open kitchen, the metal racks displaying the colourful capsicum and other food ingredients, plus the dining counter, immediately brought back memories. A noticeable difference was the miniature sandy beach display inside the glass cabinet.

Ordering the L’Atelier Menu with 8 courses ($3,180 each), I also opted for the 8-Course Grand wine pairing ($4,800), while my wife had the Sparkling tea degustation ($128). To start with, it was Louis Roederer Cristal 2015, a premium Champagne with a nice citrus note, white flowers and some white peaches, plus mint and hazelnut on brioche. A tart and mineral palate with good mousses of fine bubbles.

The Breadbasket contained 9 different types of bread, including mini-baguette, bacon baguette, sliced baguette, sourdough, chestnut bun, croissant, brioche, Comte cheese bun, and apricot walnut bread. The bread was delicious even without any of the unsalted butter provided, and while it was tempting to finish all we had to be restrained to leave some space for the other food.

The Pour Commencer was an evolution of their signature dish, with the slow-cooked egg of runny yolk and prized Oscietra caviar sitting on lobster consommé jelly that was intense in umami flavours, and topped with a layer of silky-smooth cauliflower cream, dotted by a ring of spinach cream on the perimeter. Mixing them, the flavours were luxurious and we liked how they recreated this signature into an Amuse Bouche.   

The second wine was Krug Grande Cuvee 165eme Edition, a top-notch Champagne from France. Based primarily on the 2009 vintage harvest, it had crisp citrus, green apple, with nice brioche and roasted almond notes, evolving to give a bit more honey after letting it sit. The richness and complexity, with also its nice minerality, was perfect in matching the potato salad.

Next was La Truffe Noire, using the French dark-red skinned Roseval potatoes to prepare a salad, adding the homemade foie gras rolls and then with an abundance of freshly shaved Australian black truffle on top. The potatoes had a special nutty taste that went well with the foie gras. And the earthy notes of the truffle tied everything together nicely to harmonize the flavours.

The third wine was Keller, Niersteiner Hipping Riesling GG 2012, from Rheinhessen in Germany. The producer is one of the most sought-after one in Germany nowadays, with this wine coming from the Hipping vineyard, having unique red slate soils to produce nice citrus and tropical fruit notes, rich minerality, with the honey and petrol development characters well-balanced.

The third course was La Girole. Inside the homemade ravioli the chef added seasonal Girolle mushrooms, cottage cheese and parsley as fillings. The ravioli was then served in an indulgent and rich Comte cheese infusion, combining the earthy mushroom flavours with the creamy, rich buttery sauce. As my wife did not want cheese, the chef arranged a langoustine alternative which was also very good in taste.

The fourth wine was, Jean Claude Ramonet Bourgogne Aligote 2018, from Burgundy, France. Instead of treating this as a low-end variety like most other producers, Ramonet handled it with the same diligence as their Chardonnay, resulting in a more concentrated version with nice green apple and lemon zest, white peach, wet stones and saline, with subtle almond notes.

The fourth course featured La Saint-Jacques. The fresh Hokkaido scallop was first pan-seared with caramelized surface while keeping the inside moist and tender, seasoned with a bit of finely chopped ginger and spring onion on top. On the side was a squid ink farfalle, together with coconut foam and green curry sauce for a contemporary Asian taste reminding me a bit on Thai cuisine.

The fifth wine was a cult wine made by Takahiko Soga, a famous producer in Yoichi, Hokkaido. This Yoichi-Nobori Passetoutgrain 2023 was a blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay, and apart from the usual red fruit characters, there were also a range of rusty notes, tea leaves, and earthiness. Because of its popularity, the wine was seldomly seen outside Japan, and it was also my first time getting to taste it.

The fifth course featured Le Homard Bleu. The roasted blue lobster was sweet in taste, with wonderful bouncy texture, and was served with some stewed green peas, poppy with sweetness, and a spicy bisque sauce in a bouillabaisse style, full of seafood flavours with also a bit of saffron note as well. On the side was a piece of squid ink tuile to decorate as garnish.

The sixth wine was Marcassin, Marcassin Vineyard 2007, a top-notch wine from California, with many comparing it with Montrachet from the best producers. This one got lemon curd, apricot, pineapple, honey, brioche and nice minerality, with good development yet full of energy and vibrancy to highlight the wine was in its prime drinking age and my favourite wine on the night by far.

The sixth course featured Le Turbot, with the thick wild turbot fillet pan-seared beautifully and then paired with a rich creamy Champagne sauce together with some caviar. Dusted with some lemon zest to provide acidity to freshen up, it was a traditional French dish which fully showcased the amazing flavours of the sauce and how it could elevate the food to another level.

The seventh wine was Chateau Haut-Brion 2006, the famous first growth in Bordeaux. The rich cassis and blackberry notes were complimentary with the cigar box and nice cedar characters, plus good development characters, and I found the hints of earth and truffle was particularly tempting and matched with the quail and the cherries sauce. The wine pairing continued to amaze and impress me on all levels.

For the seventh and main course, both of us had opted for the signature La Caille, featuring the prized free-range Dombes quail that was roasted with foie gras, with the breast and leg cut out separately to serve, sprinkled with some fresh almonds. On the side was cherries jubilee, and a very silky soft mashed potato underneath. To finish and remove the heaviness a consommé was provided. Fantastic.

The eighth course La Peche, a palate cleanser, with the peeled peach rolled into a beautiful peach rosette, with refreshing granite on creamy cottage cheese. The light flavours of the granite did not steal the sweetness of the peach, with the taste elegant and refined, getting us ready for the dessert and final course on the night.

To pair, the eighth wine was Chateau Guiraud 1998, a nice Sauternes. The rich apricot and orange marmalade aromas were so typical for the deliciously sweet wine, accompanied with pineapple, raisin and honey notes, and was a perfect match for the dessert, with its passion fruit citrus elements.  

The ninth and final course was Le Passion, with the chef putting the passion fruit jelly in a white chocolate shell, and then coated with dark chocolate, to resemble the real fruit, and on cracking it the running chocolate oozed out, showing a melting heart. The balance of acidity and sweetness was spot on, resulting in a rewarding experience but not indulgent.

Together with coffee or tea, the Petits Fours included Strawberry Macaron, Blueberry Crème Cheese Sphere, and Lemon Zest Madeleine.  All were very nicely done and again showcased the attention to all details, from start to finish, to ensure the whole customer experience was perfectly executed. Really a Michelin 3-star experience.

Service was very good, with the staff friendly and engaging, explaining the dishes and wines in detail to us throughout. The bill on the night was $12,632 and while it might seem extravagant, both the food and wine was top-notch and worth the spending. Considering the overall experience, I would rate them an Excellent 83 points, worth returning.

Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Yi Jia 一家

This Chinese restaurant is located at Lime Gala in Shau Kei Wan and had been awarded Michelin Bib Gourmand for some years. Arriving on a Thursday evening, the restaurant was not too busy, and we got a table immediately. There were also a few booth seats for small groups who wanted more privacy.

The décor was using elements to recreate the traditional cha chaan teng ambience, like the mosaic tiles on the floor, the hanging fan, the simple tables and chairs. There were also some decorations featuring neon tubes in a cartoon to bring a fun vibe to diners while enjoying the food.

We started with Steamed Chicken with Green Onion Sauce 一家蔥油白切雞 ($138). The chicken was tender and marinated well, rich in flavours, and it was coated with a huge amount of spring onion sauce, picking up good fragrance and also having a good portion to serve for 3-4 people. Delicious and good value.

Then came Steamed Pork Dumplings with Supreme Broth 小籠包 ($35). The traditional steamed xiao long bao had a thin dough which we could see the broth inside, but it did not pose any difficulty in picking up. With some shredded ginger and Zhejiang vinegar it was perfect in flavours. I almost immediately asked for another order.

The seasonal Yellow Croaker Spring Roll 黃金黃魚春卷 ($88) was another highlight. Wrapped in the golden-brown spring roll was the meat of the yellow croaker, carefully removing all bones, with pork and other fillings. The crunchy spring roll with the soft fillings was a nice contrast in texture, another nice dish.

With a bit of space left in the stomach, we also had the Shepherd’s Purse Dumplings 薺菜雲吞 ($68), not usually available on the menu. The dumplings had the minced pork mixed with the leaves of the plant, having hints of mustard, and was known for its health benefits. The serving had four dumplings in total and in a rich broth.

For dessert, we had Deep-Fried Souffle Balls with Mango Custard 高力芒果奶黃 ($65) to share. The souffle balls were fluffy, with the egg white light and healthy. Wrapping up inside was mango custard that were not too sweet. Coated with some icing sugar, it was a nice change in recipe from the more traditional red bean paste.

The other dessert was Sesame Paste Dumplings in Osmanthus and Fermented Wine Soup 缸鴨狗玫瑰桂花湯丸 ($48). Less impressive, the sweet dumplings had sesame fillings and was served in fermented wine soup with osmanthus that brought up nice fragrance. It was lukewarm though in temperature which was not my preference.

Service was decent, with the staff attentive but they could do a better job in explaining the dishes and other interesting facts about the restaurant. The bill on the night was $557. Considering the overall dining experience and food quality, I would rate them 73 points, worth visiting.

Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Toritama 酉玉

The yakitori restaurant is located at Glenealy in Central, and if you come from the MTR station it would be a bit of walk uphill before arriving at the wood and concrete entrance, with the yellow lights and signs showing you had come to the right place. It was a popular place, so advance booking was necessary to secure a seat.

Going inside, the yakitori station was not large, able to accommodate a dozen customers sitting around. Seated in front of the grill master Hironobu Matsumoto, we had some refreshments to start. The space was a bit clamped, and when all seats were taken it could be a bit uncomfortable with your neighbor.

We had the Omakase Menu ($788 each), and a bottle of sake, picking Taiheizan Tenko 太平山 天巧 純米大吟釀 ($1,180). Brewed by 小玉醸造 from Akita, this sake had good umami taste, had rich fruity notes of smooth roundness, and was good match with the richer and stronger flavored yakitori.

The first skewer was Tsukune or Meatball. The minced chicken meat was made to small balls before grilling, brushing with the special sauce repeatedly in the process. Very good.

The second skewer was Kappa, or Chest Soft Bone. While they did not have much taste, the crunchy texture of the soft bones was enticing.

The third skewer was Sunagimo, or Gizzard. A must-order in my opinion, the gastric mill had a wonderful texture, with good bite but not tough.

The fourth skewer was Peta, or Thick Back Skin. The skin was grilled beautifully, crispy but also not only having a thin layer like a wafer but got substance.  

Taking a break from the skewer, the Salad had some lettuce, cucumber, radish and leek, drizzled with a yuzu dressing with nice acidity to freshen the palate.

The fifth skewer was Negima, or Thigh with Leeks. The meaty thigh was a luxurious tender cut and in-between were the leeks for fragrance and balance.

The sixth skewer was Leba, or Liver. A demonstration on the skills of the chef, the liver was cooked perfectly yet still retained the softness on the bite.

The seventh skewer was Tomato. The tomato slices were juicy, with the grilling process condensing the flavors so making the tomato richer in taste.

The eighth skewer was Kaburi, or Lower Thigh. The meaty serving had some chicken fat attached, making them a bit greasier but also more flavorful.

The ninth skewer was Soriresu, or Chicken Oyster. This was the prized cut of the chicken, the most tender and flavorful piece, with only two small pieces per chicken.

The tenth skewer was Okra. As the last piece on the set, the okra was a good wrap up to the meal, with a bit of smoky notes infused into the delicate flavors of the vegetable.

We also ordered a few add-ons, including Saezuri ($46 each). The esophagus was the muscular tube linking the throat to stomach, with a nice bite. A rare part not often featured in yakitori restaurants.

Kanmuri ($48 each) was the chicken crown, and the chef trimmed it before grilling. Lots of collagen, it was another rare cut not seen in most restaurants.

Otafuku ($50 each) was sweet breads of the chicken, essentially the thyroid gland with a thin layer of fat and a tender bite on the inside.

Finishing the three rare cuts, we went for Ginnan ($48 each), the Ginko nuts. A bit earthy but also had a slight sweetness, it had a wonderful mochi-like texture.

Tebasaki ($50 each) was chicken wing, and again it was done perfectly with the skin crisp while the meat was tender and juicy. A great combination of textures.

Finally, it was Hiratake ($68 each) and the oyster mushroom was a good option for grilling, picking up the smokiness from the grilling, with also umami taste.

Then came the hot Tori Soup, which was amazing with intense flavors, and also serving in very hot temperature, keeping the stomach contented and warm.

For the rice option, I had Toritama Donburi, a rice bowl with chicken and egg simmered with a sweet and savory dashi and scattered with some shredded seaweed on top. It was a comfort food of nice flavors.

My wife had chosen Yaki Onigiri instead, with two grilled rice balls very nicely done, having crisp surface while the inside remained soft, and brushed with soy sauce but keeping it restrained and not excessive.

For dessert I had Mitarashi Ice-Cream while my wife had Fresh Fruit. The salty-sweet ice-cream was pleasant while the melon was juicy and sweet. Both were very nice.

Service was decent, and the grill master was very busy so did not have time to have many interactions with the customers, and language probably was also a barrier. The bill on the night was $3,808. Considering the overall dining experience and food quality, I would rate them an Excellent 75 points, worth returning again.