It’s been a while since I last visited Motoyama san, and
today, also to thank my sister-in-law for her help in our recent home
renovation, we returned to Mikasaya, pre-ordering the special Omakase set ($2,000
each) for the three of us. At 7pm sharp, we come to The L. Square in Causeway
Bay.
Greeting Chef Motoyama warming, I asked for his
recommendation for sake, picking Ohmine 3grain Aiyama Usunigori
大嶺 三粒米 愛山 うすにごり ($1,200).
Made from the prized sake rice Aiyama, this seasonal sake has a slight cloudiness,
with subtle creamy, slightly sparkling texture, clean and crisp, with lychee
and peach aromas.
The refreshing starter features Hotategai, with the sweet
scallop having some homemade dashi jelly on top to give extra umami and
acidity, and Bafun-Uni for its sweetness. On the side are some poached tender Asparagus.
Decorated with some shiso flowers, it is a delicious and light appetizer to
start the dinner.
As on all occasions, Chef Motoyama took out a slab of
Karasumi, the pollock roes where he salted and dried by himself, cutting a
slice before torching it on the surface.
One of Japan’s top three delicacies for its
intense umami flavours, it is great as a complement with sake as well.
Next course is Sakura-Ebi Chawanmushi, with the silky soft
steamed egg custard having delicious umami flavours, hot in temperature, with the
tiny pink shrimps adding savoury taste and an extra layer of crispy texture.
Together with plenty of spring onion it is both colourful and flavourful.
Then comes two sashimi, including Aori-Ika and Karei. The
Big-fin Reef Squid has a tender texture, sweet and not difficult to chew, while
the Marbled Japanese Flounder has a mild yet delicately sweet taste, with also
a good bite. Paired with shoyu and wasabi for the former, as well as ponzu for
the latter, both super delicious.
The Awabi is large, and after cutting into slices, Chef
Motoyama pours some of the liver sauce on top, with a rich buttery note adding
to the savoury notes of the grounded abalone liver, with amazing flavours but
not a hint of any bitterness. On top is a piece of sansho leaves to decorate to
good effect.
The sushi follows, with the first flight covering seven
different delicacies. The first piece is Shima-Aji, with the Striped Jack
Mackerel having a firm bite but also delicate sweetness.
The second piece features Shima-Ebi, with the prized Striped
Prawn having a creamy sweetness on top of its unique soft texture. While many
will compare with ama-ebi, its flavours are richer and having a firmer texture
than the sweet shrimps.
The third piece is Akami Zuke, with Chef Motoyama marinated
the lean tuna in shoyu for a short while to infuse it with the savoury taste,
supplementing the rich iron flavours while softening the texture to great
smooth and tenderness.
The fourth piece is Aji, with the Japanese Horse Mackerel
one of my favourites, being a silver-skinned fish with its rich fish taste
while not going to more extreme of fishiness. It has a clean finish and best
with the grated scallion as condiment.
The fifth piece is the seasonal Torigai. The Japanese cockle
is large, with a crunchy texture while having more mildly sweet flavours.
Well-balanced in all aspects, it is a shellfish well-liked by many foodies,
including myself.
The sixth piece features Kinmedai, with the Splendid
Alfonsino has mild, rich and buttery flavours with also good umami taste. Its
good fattiness is pleasant, and the bright red skin is easily recognized for
celebratory occasions.
The seventh piece has Shiro-Uni, with the white sea urchin large,
with a clean taste. Wrapped in nori sheet to ensure it can hold up and easy to
eat, it has nice sweetness and not the briny notes of the other varieties.
Taking a break on the sushi, we are served Kinki, freshly
grilled inside the kitchen. The prized deep-water fish has good fattiness, best
to enjoy together with the grated daikon which helps to reduce the heavy sensation
of the fish oil.
The eighth piece is Kohada, and I have missed Gizzard Shad for
its unique taste. With each chef having their unique recipe of the marinade, I
like the acidity of the cured fish which is balanced and harmonized with the umami
and savoury.
The ninth piece is Hamaguri, and the Asian Hard Clam is big,
totally engulfing the shari. The poached clam has a wonderful umami taste, and
the firm yet tender texture is pleasant. A satisfying piece of sushi.
Then we have Ankimo, with the steamed Monkfish Liver
marinated in a homemade broth to infuse with further umami, rich and amazing in
taste, with some chopped Narazuke to add some crunchy, unique fermented wine
notes. On the side are some yuzu sansho for seasoning.
Returning to sushi, the tenth piece is Tokishirazu, with the
Chum Salmon having a very fatty texture, feeling like eating a O-Toro. The rich
and sweet taste are top-notch for salmon, but it is only available in early
summer.
The eleventh piece is Chu-Toro, with the Medium-Fatty Tuna
having a rich fish oil permeating the whole mouth on the bite, intense on umami
and flavours, with also a very tender texture.
The twelfth piece is Isaki, with the chef lightly torched
the skin of the Chicken Grunt, giving it a bit of smoky note and vitalizing the
rich fish oil, making it fragrant and delicious. A good one to finish the night’s
sushi.
Finally comes the best dish in my opinion, Ramen in Fish
Soup. The highlight is apparently the fish soup, made with huge number of fish
heads and bones, together with ginger, with simply unbelievable flavours of
umami, served steaming hot.
The dessert is the Homemade Tomato Sorbet. Refreshing and
not too sweet, it is best for the summer season, and helps to cleanse the
palate, offering a comfortable and satisfying closure of another wonderful meal
on the night.
Service is great, with Chef Motoyama remains fun and
energetic as always, and sharing with me many kind reminders as a friend which I
appreciate so much. The bill on the night is $7,920. Considering food quality
and overall experience, I continue to rate them an Excellent 80 points, worth
returning.
