Wineshark Mystery Restaurant - Chuen Cheung Kui 泉章居

This traditional Hakka restaurant has been in business for over 70 years and used to have several outlets in HK, where I had visited their Causeway Bay one (both old and new) many times before. With the bad economy in recent years, sadly the Sheung Wan outlet is the only remaining one. Today we came to Chuen Cheung Kui.

Walking up to the stairs to the first floor, the restaurant has a no-frill, neighbourhood vibe, with circular tables, standard chairs, and dark carpets all familiar décor. Coming early evening there are still many tables but quite soon most of them become occupied, showing that there are still good patronage to this old restaurant.

We order some traditional Hakka dishes, starting with their Signature Salt Baked Chicken 金牌鹽焗雞 ($174 half). The chicken skin is smooth and the flesh tender, infused with saltiness but not excessive. The taste is good, with also a generous portion, no wonder we see almost all the tables are ordering this dish. A must try.

The other Hakka dish we have is Dongjiang Tofu 東江豆腐煲 ($148). The tofu is pan-fried before pouring with a thick oyster sauce, with some soybeans underneath it. Decent in taste, but honestly there are so little meat stuffed in the tofu it is almost non-existent. I also don’t like everything that is just put in the casserole instead of cooking  

The last dish is something we have not eaten for so long. The Pan-fried Beef Fillet with Maggi Sauce 美極香煎牛柳 ($168) is quite nicely done, with the beef fillet tender and not over-cooked, and the shredded onion helps to provide fragrance and a bit of different texture, together with the savoury taste of Maggi sauce.

When we ask for the bill, the staff kindly checked whether we wanted dessert and duly provide us with each complimentary Black Sesame Sweet Soup. Not too sweet, it is quite delicious, and great that here they are offering free for all diners as a token of appreciation.

Service is quite nice, while it has the usual Chinese restaurant style the staff are overall friendly and helpful. The bill is $579 which is apparently good value. For a no-frill meal with friends, this remains a great option and I hope they will be able to weather out the current bad economy and continue to offer HK people these familiar choices.

Wineshark Mystery Restaurant - Samsen (Wanchai)

This Thai noodle specialty restaurant has now three outlets, in Wanchai, Central and Sheung Wan. It is a popular place for both locals and tourists, and today we come to their branch in Wanchai, located beside the famous Blue House in Stone Nullah Lane, slightly before their opening time at 6pm, and already see a small queue waiting, with most of them being Chinese tourists.

Soon we are seated inside, and the décor recreates an old Thai diner, with raw concrete walls, some dated movie posters and stickers. The iron sliding gate at the entrance has a familiar historic vibe, along with Tessera floors, plus having some plants hanging from the ceiling. In no time the restaurant is fully occupied, with another queue starting to form outside.

After ordering a Pineapple & Ginger Slushies ($68) and Fresh Thai Lime Soda ($46), we start with Spicy Chopped Pork & Thai Herb Salad ($138). With plenty of lettuce on the side, the chopped pork is seasoned with fresh herbs. While only moderately spicy on its own, it can become quite hot by adding Nam Jim Gai sauce, which also made the salad much more appealing in taste. A nice salad for those who like spiciness, but probably not the choice if cannot take the heat.

Each of us order our own boat noodle, with me going for Samsen Wagyu Beef Boat Noodle Soup ($158), while my wife has the Samsen Pork Boat Noodle Soup ($158). The soup is really delicious, intense in flavours and can immediately tell the effort and time needed to prepare. Apart from the slices of beef, there are also beef brisket and meatball, and the brisket is the star among them, very tender and full of flavours.  

Together there are also some crispy pork rinds which are very good soaking up the soup. Another highlight for me is the thin rice noodles, silky and perfect combination with the soup and beef. Along with Thai watercress, the taste is truly authentic and reminds me of the best boat noodles. I did not try the pork boat noodle but it is equally good too in my wife’s opinion.

For dessert, we have Thai Mango & Sticky Rice ($98). Again, true to the traditional style, the chef has scattered some green beans on top to bring in extra layer of texture. The mango slices are delicious and juicy, with the sticky rice glutinous and perfect with the coconut cream, sweet but not excessive. Another recommendation.

Service is good, while the place is packed and not exactly comfortable, the staff are friendly and try their best to help and assist. The bill on the night is $783. While it is not cheap, here one can truly bring back memories of your visit to Thailand and the amazing boat noodles you have tried there. If not traveling soon, a good place to quench the thirst with its wonderful broth.  

Wineshark Mystery Restaurant - Enishi

Enishi is a teppanyaki restaurant located at Bonham Strand in Sheung Wan, helmed by the Japanese couple and chefs Ami and Toru Takano. The entrance has recreated the vibe of a Japanese cottage, with wooden beams and warm lighting seeping out from the bamboo windowpanes.

Entering is a long teppanyaki counter that can accommodate ten customers, with Ami and another local chef serving. We are assigned seats at the end of the counter, enjoying more privacy and space. We ordered the Tanagu Menu ($1,480 each). The chef then assembles and introduces the ingredients he would be cooking for us.

The Sakizuke is Beef Shigureni. A classic dish that is often made at home, the beef has been simmered with a broth of sweet soy sauce and grated ginger, great in a mix of sweet and savoury taste, plus the fragrance of the ginger. Together with some chopped spring onion, the chef also added a sauteed daikon to help balance the rich flavours. A good starter that might seem modest but is heartwarmingly comfortable.

The Sashimi features Hamachi, with the yellowtail having been lightly torched, or aburi in Japanese term, paired with some grated daikon and ponzu, plus some shiso flowers and shredded shiso leaves. The fish has a rich taste, with the fish oil having been vitalized through the torching process, with mouthwatering aromas and good in taste. The condiments are also spot on to balance with the acidity from ponzu. Nice.

While we were eating the first couple of courses, the chef has already started to prepare the third course, Homemade Gyoza, on the teppan, to a crisp and caramelized bottom while keeping the skin soft and not dried up. The dumpling has a stuffing made with Hotaru Ika, or firefly squid, plus some fried garlic and onion, very flavourful and full of umami. On top are some fresh watercress and a sauce made with the vegetable and Parmesan cheese. Very good indeed.

Next is the highlight for the menu on the night in my opinion. The large live Hokkaido Ezo Awabi is meticulously prepared, grilled and sauteed to perfection, very tender on the bite. With some wakeme seaweed and grilled eggplant (yaki nasu) on the side, with the latter having a very aromatic smoky note, the chef has also prepared two sauces, one made with the abalone liver and the other a dashi sauce. Pure enjoyment and not to be missed.

The main course features Kumamoto Akaushi Ribeye. The ribeye steak has been grilled to the perfect medium rare per my request, caramelized on the surface yet still pink and juicy inside. The quality of the beef is really good, with a nice marble but not excessive, so finishing the steak does not feel too greasy or too heavy to the body (and heart!). With a bit of wasabi and sea salt to enhance the taste, on the side are the Aomori garlic chips. Wonderful.

Instead of the usual fried rice, the chef has prepared Pot Rice with Oyster and Uni. Proudly using premium rice from Niigata, it is made with homemade dashi. The chef then takes the soy-marinated oysters and then torch them, before putting them into the pot rice, together with some sea urchin from Hokkaido and vegetables. Served with pickles and a clear soup, we are able to finish the whole pot, with enough for two full bowls each. Contented and happy.

The final course is Homemade Seasonal Dessert, featuring the homemade matcha chiffon cake, with the chef piping a delicious cream cheese inside, together with some Kyoho grapes and pistachio on top, the cake is not too sweet, with a nice fluffy texture. The cream cheese helps to provide an extra layer of complexity in flavours, while the grapes and pistachio supplement on appearance and texture. A satisfying conclusion to a wonderful meal.

Service is good, but the chef might not be that interactive with the customers. The bill on the night is $3,384 which is reasonable. If you want teppanyaki but do not want too heavy a menu, this is a place worth visiting.

Wineshark Home Cooking - Ultimate Potato Salad 終極馬鈴薯沙拉

Ingredients (for 2):

• Bacon - 4 slices
• Potato - 6 small ones
• Onion - 1/2
• Garlic - 2 cloves
• Mayonnaise - 4 tbsp
• Salt - 1/3 tsp
• Black pepper finely - 1 tsp + 1 tsp
• Sugar - 1 tsp
• Olive oil - 1 tsp
• Tabasco sauce - dashes

Procedures:

1. Cut the onion into shreds.

2. Cut the bacon into pieces.

3. Cut the garlic finely.

4. Wash the potatoes thoroughly.

5. Mix mayonnaise with salt, black pepper, and sugar.

6. Heat a pot of water to boiling, and then put the potatoes in to cook for 10 minutes under high heat. Then turn off the heat and continue to let it simmer for another 5 minutes.

7. Heat the pan with oil, then stir-fry the onion until softened and fragrant.

8. Add in garlic and cook for a while to fragrant. Then remove to a mixing bowl.

9. Add a bit of oil to the pan and stir-fry the bacon until the oil is extracted and the bacon well-cooked. Then remove and add to the mixing bowl.

10. Peel the potato skin off.

11. Cut the potato into big pieces and then add into the mixing bowl.

12. Add in the salad sauce. Mix well.

13. Put the salad in the serving bowl, then sparkle with black pepper finely and add dashes of tabasco sauce.

14. Serve.

Wineshark Mystery Restaurant - Yung Kee Restaurant 鏞記酒家

This famous restaurant is traditionally known for its roasted goose, but since the dispute of the Kam family which led to the separation of the brothers opening their own restaurants, I have not visited them. Today, I came to Yung Kee to see what has changed over the years.

The décor has a modern and neat design, totally not the type you would expect from a Chinese restaurant that has opened since 1942. Seated at a table at the far end, with windows on the side offering a glimpse on Wellington Street, it is pleasant and comfortable.

We have a combination of the signature dishes plus the seasonal chef’s selection, starting with their famous Signature Charcoal Roasted Goose 正宗炭燒黑鬃鵝 ($300). This normal portion is good for 2-3 people, with the goose not fatty and the meat quite tender. The taste on its own is nothing special, but after adding a bit of plum sauce it is better. I found the skin is not crisp and honestly, I think the quality of its goose has deteriorated, and inferior to Kam’s Roast Goose or the ones in Sham Tseng.

Next, we have Almond and Pig’s Lung Soup 杏汁滋補豬肺湯 ($180 each). The soup has a delicate almond note, with the lungs washed thoroughly so there is no weird taste. There are other ingredients like gingko, pork, and bean curd sheet added too. While it tastes good, it is less delicious than another traditional restaurant Lin Heung Tea House that I recently visited. And in my opinion the soup will be better if it can be served steaming hot.

From the seasonal menu this dish caught my attention. The Stir-fried Frog’s Stomach 皇冠翡翠戲藏龍 ($380) is using the special ingredient - frog’s stomach, which looks like large pearls, with a nice crunchy bite. Together with asparagus, gingko, yellow ear, brown fungus, pine nuts and Tonkin jasmine, it has a nice, delicate taste and is a great dish for summer. After the slight disappointment from the first two courses, this one helps to rescue some marks.

Another dish on the main menu is Braised Garoupa's Belly with Yanmin Sauce 銀棯醬炆鮮斑腩 ($450). Served in a sizzling hot pot, the large grouper flesh is tender and seasoned well, highly fragrant from plenty of shallot and ginger, and not greasy nor does it feel too oily. The yanmin sauce has provided slight acidity to help balance the flavours. Fantastic and this is my favorite one on the night.

We have also Fried Rice with Mini Crab Roe and Ginger 禮雲子薑米炒飯 ($320). Another of my favourites, the fried rice is very nicely cooked, not oily and with each grain distinct, the chef has added the prized mini crab roes, which must have taken meticulous effort to get from the small crabs, to give an amazing umami taste. With some small pieces of chopped ginger and scallions to add fragrance and balance, the portion is good for four bowls, and we basically finished them all in no time.

For dessert, my wife has Red Bean Sweet Soup with Aged Tangerine Peel 遠年陳皮紅豆沙 ($55) while I go for Black Sesame Sweet Soup 生磨綿滑芝麻糊 ($50). Both sweet soups are nice, not too sweet, with good fragrance from quality aged tangerine peel and the grinded sesame respectively.

Service is good, with the staff attentive, but again, as I have shared frequently, should introduce more details to allow the diners to learn and appreciate the dishes more. The bill on the night is $2,172. Overall, still a nice Chinese restaurant but given its fame I believe there are more expectations, and the roasted goose is honestly a bit disappointing.

Wineshark Mystery Restaurant - The Dutch House

In HK we can find delicacies from all over the world, but somehow Dutch cuisine is virtually unheard of. So, when I saw the promotion of The Dutch House on social media, I immediately made a reservation to explore.

The restaurant is on 13/F of VIP Commercial Centre in TST, and we are seated at a table on the window side, having a nice view overlooking Kowloon Park. Neat décor, with some post-impression style paintings on the walls, to pay tribute to the famous Dutch artist Van Gogh.

I have pre-ordered the seasonal Holland White Asparagus Tasting Menu ($888 each) with also wine pairing. A smart approach is that they charge per pairing ($80 each), so allowing the diner to choose which and how many glasses they like.

There are two starters. On the left is the Dutch Herring tartlet, with the chopped herring nicely marinated and flavourful. On the right is Asparagus Bitterbal, replacing the oxtail meat in the traditional snack with asparagus and Italian ham. Both are delicious.

The first pairing is in fact not wine, but a gin called Hazey Gin. Developed together with celebrity chef Chris Cosentino, the spirit has many fragrant herbs, pleasant on the nose and palate, but its strong alcohol level may not work for everyone.

The first course is Smoked Mackerel White Asparagus Apple Salad with Eel. The mackerel and green apple and finely chopped and mixed like tartar, with white wine vinegar pearls and asparagus on top. The gorgeous smoked eel is from a wild river species only available in Holland. Together with beetroot and asparagus pickled in beetroot juice to give a beautiful red colour, this salad is phenomenal in taste. My favourite dish in the evening.

The wine paired is Pere Ventura Tresor Gran Reserva 2018, a Cava from Penedes in Spain. The sparkling wine from the traditional blend of Macabeo, Xarel-lo, and Parellada, with nice persistent bubbles, crisp green apple and citrus zest, and toasty.

The second course is White Asparagus Soup with Dutch Shrimps. The shrimps are small but intense in taste, with also good bite. Added with some chopped poached eggs, the soup is of perfect thickness, delicate with the refined flavours of the white asparagus and not overly seasoned. Another wonderful dish.

The third course is White Asparagus Hollandaise with Monkfish and Lobster. Adopting the traditional style to enjoy white asparagus with poached egg and Hollandaise sauce, the chef has also added monkfish and lobster on the side, which are very good on its own, to complement the true anchor of the dish, the prized ‘white gold’.

The wine paired is Domaine La Grange Tiphaine Bel Air 2022, a Chenin Blanc from Touraine in Loire Valley of France. A fruity wine with good minerality and richness, it is a versatile wine that can match both the hollandaise sauce and rich flavour seafood.

The fourth course is Slow Cooked Pigeon with Crispy Fried White Asparagus in Truffle Sauce. Beautifully presented, the pigeon is very tender and juicy, with the deep-fried asparagus on the side, together with some okra and onion, and finished with the truffle sauce to enhance the earthy tone and savoury. Another of my favourite dishes.

The wine paired is Maddi Rioja Reserva 2019. The intense aromas of this Spanish red show a lot of spices and balsamic characters, with also cocoa, earth, and oak. Good to match with the pigeon and truffle sauce.

The fifth course is Rangers Valley Australian M9+ Wagyu Tenderloin with Grilled Asparagus. The beef is soft and tender, with a nice gravy sauce on top. The grilled asparagus is very nice, along with some bell pepper and cauliflower. Another nice dish. I think if the beef is from a cut with a slightly chewier texture, it might be even better.

The wine paired is Chateau Fondouce Cuvee Juliette 2013, with the owner of this Languedoc estate being a good friend of the chef. It has nice, forward Grenache characters, but is in fact a blend, with delicate light oak and sweet spice on top of the ripe black fruit.

The sixth and final course is Dutch Strawberries Butter Cake with Custard. The strawberry gelato is delicious, not too sweet, with some fresh strawberries and puree added, plus a bit of crumbs on top to give extra texture. On the side is a homemade butter cake, which is also nice. A pleasant finish to a satisfying meal.

The wine paired is Markus Molitor Wehlener Klosterberg Riesling Kabinett 2020. The Mosel wine does not have the necessary sweetness and honestly does not match with the dessert. I guess there may be a mistake on the choice here.

Service is good, and the bill on the night is $2,651. The food, ambience, and overall experience is nice, and while I am not sure how authentic its Dutch cuisine, it is certainly delicious. But seeing how slow business is, I feel sad and hope they will get more customers, as it is with diversity and quality that made HK an international food heaven, and we need restaurant like this one to uphold our pride heritage.