Hugo’s was a fine-dining restaurant located in the first
Hyatt-branded hotel in Asia, Hyatt Regency Hong Kong on Nathan Road, originally
opened in 1969. With the closure of the hotel in 2006, the restaurant re-opened
later in the new Hyatt Regency in Hanoi Road, continued to offer classic Western
cuisine to diners.
The restaurant was named after a fictional Bavarian character,
with his armour in display at the entrance. Together with medieval European décor
like coat-of-arms, shields, chandeliers, and wooden beam ceiling, the dining
experience presents a unique and classic atmosphere.
We ordered Hugo’s Classic Set Menu ($1,498 each), plus wine
pairing ($798) for me. After a welcome aperitif, a non-alcohol sparkling rose,
the first wine was Champagne Lamiable Souffle d’Etoiles Grand Cru Extra Brut
NV. It was a good match with seafood in general, having good citrus and
minerality, very dry in body.
The first course was Freshly Shucked Oysters with Mignonette
Dressing. Even though the two raw oysters were not plump, they had nice
creaminess and flavours. Paired with Mignonette dressing, the classic French
vinegar with shallot and white peppers, it was a typical way to enjoy with
oysters.
The second wine was Lucien Crochet Sancerre Les Calcaires 2021,
with the Sauvignon Blanc varietal having a nice, rounded texture, demonstrating
good structure and minerality. Its freshness and herbaceous characters are a
good match with the garlic butter stuffed inside the escargots.
The second course was Escargots a la Bourguignonne. Served
on a traditional metal baking dish, which got indents to hold the snails in
shells in place, each of these French delicacies had been stuffed with garlic
butter to give an extra layer of richness in fragrance and taste.
The third wine served was Anselmann Riesling Kabinett 2022. It
was an off-dry German Riesling, with a good balance on acidity and sweetness,
making it pleasant and very easy to drink. Citrus with elegant white flowers,
plus steely minerality, the wine was a surprisingly good match with lobster
soup.
The third course was Lobster Bisque. Prepared on table side,
the lobster bisque was heated up and then ‘flambe’ with the added brandy, for
the fragrance of the spirit but burning off the alcohol in it. With a dash of
cream in the middle, some freshly crushed black pepper to season, it was
delicious.
The fourth wine served was Xanadu Cabernet Sauvignon 2022, an
Australian red from Margaret River. The full-bodied wine had ripe black fruit,
plenty of spices and oak, plus an integrated tannin that went well with red
meat, in particular the peppery notes was good match with the seasoning of the
steak.
The fourth course was Steak au Poivre, with the meat cooked
to medium rare, having good tenderness and remaining juicy. Having plenty of
black pepper on the surface, the steak was a bit spicy though, but I liked it a
lot. On the side was mashed potato and some glazed seasonal organic vegetables.
For the fifth and final wine pairing, it was Mas Amiel 1969,
a fortified wine from the Roussillon region in France. The dried fruit of fig
and walnut was pronounced, while the balance of cocoa and warm spices provided
a wonderful match with the likes of chocolate or blue cheese. The bottle was a
special edition for Hugo’s as well.
For dessert, I had chosen French Cheese Selection. The staff
pushed the cheese cart to our table, and I ended trying all four types
available. On the side there were fresh grapes, raisins, and fruit chutney to
go with the cheese. My wife had chosen Hugo’s Chocolate Souffle, which was paired
with a custard brandy sauce.
The Petits Fours was a Chocolate Cherry, with the staff dipping
the cherries in melted chocolate before putting them in the liquid nitrogen to
freeze the coating. A fancy way to wrap up the dinner, with the menu also
included Coffee or Tea, and I finished the meal with a nice cup of Espresso to my
satisfaction.
Service was good, with the staff attentive and friendly. But
the restaurant was quite strict on dress code, and I saw a guest having some
issue because of that. The bill on the night was $3,443. Considering the food
quality and overall dining experience, I would rate them a Good 70 points.
Worth trying.