Because of my travel, I unfortunately cannot
attend the second anniversary of Sushi Zinc, in which Chef Zinc had invited his
mentor Paolo Monti for a few nights of four-hands collaboration, combining
Japanese and Italian cuisine. Returning home, I immediately went to his
restaurant in Shau Kei Wan to ask what I had missed.
As typical, I start with a serving of sake,
taking the seasonal limited
夏酒 from Abe Brewery 阿部酒造 ($300). This summer’s
sake has a clean and refreshing taste, very suitable for enjoying during the
summer season.
The first course of the Omakase Menu
($2,400 each) features local Tomatoes, with the chopped pieces sitting on top
of a refreshing jelly made from fermented tomatoes, with garlic flower on top
to give a bit of fragrance.
The second course is Murasaki-Uni. From Yura
at Awaji, this famous purple sea urchin has rich and intense flavours, with a
unique longan and mango taste. Chef Zinc just uses some snowflake salt to
season for the best effects.
The third course features Madai from Ehime.
To pair with the sashimi of the Japanese red seabream, Chef Zinc uses the fish
bones to prepare a broth, then with its shirako to make a creamy white sauce.
On the side are the grilled salted fish roes, grounded as seasoning.
The fourth course is Hamaguri Tart. After
cooking the large clams for a day to soften them, he cut them into small
pieces, mixed with mascarpone cheese and then added with some prized sansho flowers,
finishing with a pinch of sansho peppers to season.
The second sake I have is Rihaku Brewery
李白酒造 from Shimane. The bottle 特別純米 樽酒 ($300) has been aged in Sugi barrel, with a fragrant fir aroma and mellow
texture, a very special sake that you must try it out if happen to come across.
The fifth course is Hotaru-Ika Tempura. The
firefly squid is almost towards the end of the season, very large, with Chef
Zinc stuffing it with the famous local shrimp paste from Tai O for extra umami
and savoury flavours.
Proceeding to sushi, the first piece is from
an 8-catty Takanohadai, or spottedtail morwong, caught in Sai Kung and aged for
two weeks, seasoned with a bit of green yuzu and salt to highlight its original
flavours. Truly deserved to be known as one of best local fish.
The second piece is Umigikugai, or thorny
oyster, again coming from Sai Kung. Even though its name has the word oyster,
it is not of the family, more akin to scallop, with a nice intense umami taste
and crunchy texture.
The third piece is Shiro-Ika from Fukuoka,
with Chef Zinc adding a bit of Karashi Mentaiko inside the white squid for a
bit of spiciness and rich umami as seasoning. To break the fiber and make it easy
to eat, the surface has been meticulously cut as well.
The fourth piece is Shiro-Uni from
Hokkaido. The prized white sea urchin is very large in size, super expensive as
it is one of the first to be auctioned in the market, with good sweetness and
creamy texture.
The third sake
菊姫 山廃純米無濾過生原酒 ($300) from Kikuhime in Ishikawa. This special sake is unpasteurized,
retaining freshness and having a bold and raw flavours, keeping a good acidity
which is rather unique for undiluted sake.
The fifth piece is local Threadfin, caught
in Sai Kung. At the end of the season, this one is the last piece we can enjoy
before the coming Autumn. With a tender texture, the rich flavours of the fatty
fish again showcase why this is another of the best local fish.
The sixth piece features the Kegani shown
to us earlier. After taking the meat from the horsehair crab to make the sushi,
Chef Zinc added Karasumi marinated in homemade plum wine, to add an extra
dimension of umami and savoury flavours.
Returning to shuko, the sixth course serves
Konagai Kaki ‘Karen’ from Nagasaki. Instead of having the oyster raw, Chef Zinc
grills it half-cooked, retaining the jus and adding the Spring vegetable Gyoja
Ninniku to make a sauce to complement.
The seventh course features Fish Maw from
Threadfin, with Chef Zinc first cooking them in a broth made from the fish
bones, before wrapping them inside a nori sheet and deep-frying in tempura
style, and paired with the grounded salted threadfin as seasoning.
The eighth course is Kobashira, the abductor
muscle of round clams, in vinaigrette dressing, with also shredded Nagaimo,
where the Japanese yam has been cut into thin shreds like noodles. With a few shiso
flowers, it is a refreshing transition.
The seventh is Saba Maki. The mackerel
comes from Oita, and together with homemade Kanpyo, Shiso, and sesame, marinated
Kombu on top, are wrapped in nori sheet to make a sushi roll. A traditional
style sushi roll which is tasty and filling.
The eighth piece features local Kuruma-Ebi,
or tiger prawn, half cooked to retain partially the texture when it is raw,
while getting the sweetness of the cooked prawn, plus also the oil made from
the prawn head to increase the flavours even further.
The ninth piece is Akami, with the lean tuna
having a silky-smooth texture, very tender on the bite. Unlike the traditional
style where the tuna would be marinated in shoyu for a period, this one does
not retain the original taste and is also less salty.
The fourth sake is an aged sake
達磨正宗 十年古酒 ($200), 10-Year-Old from Daruma Masamune, a premium aged sake
producer in Gifu. Its mellow and deep flavours are exceptional and creates a
totally different experience to the normal sake.
The tenth piece is O-Toro. With Chef Zinc
using a new different cut to prepare this hay-smoked fatty tuna, in a flat, thinner
cut so initially it gives me the impression of a piece of cured ham, with a bit
of grated garlic to season to balance the fattiness.
The Tamagoyaki is made mixing the eggs with
a fish broth made from Kombu, Bonito and Maguro, with a fluffy texture and rich
umami taste. On the side is the grated local radish to accompany the omelet.
To finish the meal, a Hot Soup with Yamato-Shijimi,
or Japanese basket clams, is served. With also the famous and rare Poi Toi
Island seaweed, which has been lightly grilled, the umami of the soup is amazingly
intense.
Feeling that I did not drink enough on the
night, I asked for the fifth and final sake, trying the prized
達磨正宗 二十年古酒 20-Year-Old Daruma Masamune ($360). With a bit more acidity than
the last one, it is rich in black sugar fragrance and extremely smooth.
Dessert is Panna Cotta made from sushi rice
from Yamagata. The rice is stir-fried and then infused into milk, providing
sweetness and stickiness to replace the sugar and gelatin. Very enjoyable with
some rice crisps on top to give extra layer of texture.
Service is very good as always, and the choice
and quality of the ingredients remain top notch. The bill on the night is
$6,303 and considering the overall dining experience and food quality, I would
continue to rate this restaurant an Exceptional 85 points, must try.