Since ZS Hospitality announced the sad
closure of Testina, I have been waiting for its replacement in the Lyndhurst
Terrace location. Recently I heard of their new concept featuring elevated
Vietnam dining, so today we come to Le Le to try it out.
With the open kitchen and VIP room at one
end, we are seated opposite, enjoying a quieter space. The banquette and
furniture are comfortable, and the décor is simple, offering a relaxing
environment for diners to focus on the food and conversations.
Picking the Experience Menu ($1,188 each), I
decided to also order a bottle of white wine. Josmeyer Riesling Le Kottabe 2023
($980) from Alsace has good citrus and white peach, floral and minerality, plus
hints of development in honey, a versatile wine for food.
Beginning with two small bites, the first
one is Sa. Served on a tart are some poached clams sitting on top of crunchy
peanuts, covered with lemongrass cream and foam. The combination of umami with
the sweet and sour notes are spot-on. The different textures and combinations
of flavors are a treat for the palate.
The second snack is Toi Ngam Chua. The oyster
comes from Hokkaido, lightly torched, and paired with pickled garlic slices,
with its nice acidity and bits of sweetness to complement the umami of the
oyster. The tart is shaped like an oyster shell as well. Both good in taste and
appearance.
Moving on to appetizer, Goi is a kind of
Vietnamese salad, using spring peas and asparagus tips as the base of the
salad, some thinly sliced torched geoduck in the middle, with a nice fish sauce
dressing, adjusted to the ingredients and season of produce. The dish finishes
with some garnish of ice plants and flowers on top. Refreshing and delicious.
The next appetizer is Muoi Ot Xanh,
featuring the Japanese Shima-Aji aged for a few days, with the raw striped jack
having firm texture and delicate sweetness. The interesting twist is the
pairing with the Vietnamese green chili sauce, with reduced heat and turned
into puree form. Eaten together with some fresh herbs, it is fantastic fusion
execution.
The third appetizer is Pho Ga but totally revolutionizes
the traditional soup. Using a siphon, the intense-flavored chicken broth is
sucked up to infuse the herbs, spices and lime in the holder, before dropping
back after the removal of heat. The broth is then poured into the bowl with fish
maw, chicken and cuttlefish noodle. Delicious and a must try.
The last of the appetizer is Banh Tieu, Vietnamese
doughnut with duck in 3 ways. The roasted duck has been dry aged for two days
to offer great tenderness. The skin has been braised with duck fat for
crispness. Together with duck liver pate, and a sausage with pickles on top to
balance the richness, to enjoy with the doughnut in de-constructed way.
Moving to the seafood course, Chao Tom, is
a Boston lobster tail that has been skewered with sugarcane before grilling
with fermented rice and butter sauce, and served with lobster mousse, with some
pickled jackfruit and gem lettuce on the side. There is also a sugarcane juice
infused with passionfruit juice to enjoy beforehand.
For the main course, Xoi Man, is smoked
pigeon with tri-color sticky rice. The breast and leg of the fragrant
slow-cooked pigeon are carved out for easy eating, very tender and juicy, and
served together with the soup and some sticky rice. The balsamic vinegar on the
side is a good dipping sauce, with also some pickles to freshen the palate.
Coming to dessert, there are two courses.
The first is Kinh Gioi, a refreshing light dessert featuring lemon balm gelato
with ginger-lime yogurt mousse. On the sides are cucumber, prepared in
different styles including small, diced ones for texture, as well as pickled cucumber
to give pleasant acidity.
The other dessert is Bap Rang Bo, changing
the nostalgic Vietnamese street snack to a refined dessert, with the bottom being
a tart featuring the prized Marou chocolate from the famous Vietnam producer, a
buttered popcorn risotto, and a brown butter tuile. A very nice dessert with
great texture and flavours.
Together with Petits Fours, the bill on the
night is $4,284. Service is very good with the staff attentive and explained to
us in detail on each course, while the food quality is amazing and innovative.
Considering the overall experience I would rate this restaurant an Excellent 80
points, worth returning to this amazing Vietnamese fine dining.