Wineshark Mystery Restaurant - Yuan 圓

To celebrate my wife’s birthday, we returned to Yuan, located at Chinachem Hollywood Centre in Central, as she wanted to have vegetarian cuisine, and we had a great time during the last visit three years ago. Helmed under Chef Ronald Shao from Lubuds Group, we came sharp at our booking time to the restaurant just opposite Tai Kwun.

After seated comfortably at a table on the window side, I took a quick look around, and there was no change in the décor, with the open kitchen on one side, featuring mainly light colours, with a calm and Zen atmosphere in harmony with modern Chinese vegetarian cuisine. We decided to go for the 12-Course Winter Tasting Menu ($1,288 each).

I also ordered a bottle of Josmeyer Pinot Blanc Mise du Printemps 2023 ($488). This biodynamic Alsace white wine, although quite simple, exhibited vibrant fruit and nice minerality, with white flowers, green apples, citrus and hints of peaches. The crisp acidity and saline palate could match with most of the food. 

Welcome Drink is 八寶茶. This traditional herbal tea is a specialty for winter, good for throat and enhance appetite. Made from dried longan, hawthorn, chrysanthemum, osmanthus, red date, goji, licorice, and fritillaria cirrhosa, it was mildly sweet and warm, with a touch of acidity. Delicious and healthy, getting us ready to begin our meal.  

There were two Amuse Bouche, with the first being 麻婆 脆盞. Using Indian potato to make panipuri, a common India street food, to hold dried bean curd, tofu skin, and chopped shimeji mushroom stir-fried with mapo sauce, plus quinoa on top. The crunchy basket holding an assorted mix of ingredients, with the slight spiciness, was appetizing.

The second Amuse Bouche was 欖菜 螺絲卷. Using Chiu Chow olive vegetables to make a mousse, the chef has added some deep-fried, finely chopped, olive vegetables on top, for additional texture and flavours. Two Chinese buns, in the form of screws, were served to enjoy with the dip, one steamed and one deep-fried.

Next came the Appetizers. On the left was 椒香 蘿蔔, featuring daikon with snow gum on top. The Hunan green chili and Sichuan peppercorn gave a hint of spiciness and good fragrance. On the right was 甘樹子 棕櫚心. The heart of palm was tender, while the celtuce was crunchy, with the Sebesten plum cordia adding a bit of sweetness to season.

First entrée was 香草 茄子 無花果. Cutting the fresh tomatoes of different colours into slices, together with toasted Shanghai eggplant and pieces of sweet fig, the salad was dressed with smoked olive oil infused with dill to highlight the original flavours of the vegetables, further decorated by some edible flowers. 

Second entrée was 黑松露 翡翠豆腐. On the shaved black truffle were some white powders, which were in fact also black truffles, but prepared using molecular gastronomy processing. Underneath was fava bean and spinach puree, together with some sweet green pea, with pickled mustard green. Fragrant and rich in flavours.

Soup was 西洋菜 桃膠. Using watercress and apricot almonds to blend, the chef made the rich and thick soup, with a vibrant green colour that was appetizing. In the middle were some peach resins to give an additional texture on the bite. On the side was the watercress and sago cracker, to dip in the soup to enjoy together. 

Coming to Main, the first one was 益母草 白蘆筍 芹菜根. Using maitake mushroom to prepare a broth, with some motherwort herb added, not only for a nice green hue, but also good medicinal properties, to pair with the two roasted root vegetables of white asparagus and celeriac. A very good match and delicious.

The second main course was 紅燒 野菌 瓜方. Made to resemble the traditional braised pork belly, with layers of winter melon and Shanghai rice cake, wrapped in reed. On the side were some sweet peas, with assorted mushrooms and a rich sauce made from red bell pepper. Both the taste and texture had a hint of meat. Very good too.

For a transition, the Palate Cleanser was 話梅 蕃茄凍. The juice of the organic cherry tomatoes was made to jelly, with the top coated with some sweet and sour plum shavings. Together with some edible flowers to decorate, this was a light and delicate treat to clean the palate and get us ready for the next main course.

Presenting in nice colour and shapes, the third main course was 苗族酸湯 空氣春卷. The spring roll had a thin crisp, airy on texture, with morel as fillings. Paired with Guizhou red sour soup for its unique flavours, a bit like Thai tom yam. With mashed sweet potato at bottom, there were also some vegetables on the side as well. 

We picked one each of the Staple Food to try. The first was 板栗 松茸 砵仔飯. The Hakka steamed rice was served in a small clay bowl, with pieces of chestnut and matsutake mushroom giving nice fragrance. On the side were different condiments like pinenuts, pickled turnip, and chili sauces to mix depending on individual preference. 

The other one was 有機三色蕃茄焗素扒飯. The Baked Vegan Pork Chop Rice ($138 extra) was similar in appearance but using vegan meat instead, with organic cherry tomato to make the thick sauce and cheese on top. Having a fried egg on top, this one was great in both appearance and taste. The concept came from Chef Shao’s famous signature at Mian. 

For Dessert the first one was 黑芝麻, featuring homemade black sesame ice-cream, with a tang yuan in the middle, filled with black sesame sweet soup. The presentation was also thoughtful, serving in a can. Whether you are a black sesame lover or not, this one would certainly win you over.

The other one was 陳皮 雪梨, a warm dessert to wrap up the meal. The sweet soup was appropriate in sweetness level, made together with dried tangerine peel to give a nice fragrance. Together with pear and dried fig, the traditional dessert helped to give comfort to the stomach, and smoothed out the throat from the chillness in weather.

Service was very good, with the staff friendly and explaining each course in detail, allowing us to enjoy not just the taste and appearance, but together with the knowledge of the food. The bill on the night is $3,760. Considering overall food quality and dining experience, I would rate this restaurant an Excellent 83 points. Worth returning. 

Wineshark Mystery Restaurant - LPM

This French restaurant is in the heart of Central, at H Queen’s on Stanley Street, with the glass doors leading past a curtain screen, into a nice ambience, with light colour palette, white linen tablecloth, plenty of art on the walls. All creating a cozy Riviera atmosphere, reminding me of a vacation to Nice many years back.

With sofa seats on the side, we are seated at a table in the middle, with more space and comfort. All the staff are dressed in smart and formal attire, very neat and impressive. As this restaurant is also famous for its cocktails, I go for a glass of classic Manhattan ($130) to start, while my wife has the mocktail La Plage ($98).

We started with Salade Nicoise ($338). I learned to make this classic French salad from a local chef in my last visit to the city. The portion is quite big, enough for four, with lots of lettuce, boiled egg, tuna, olives, and dressed in olive oil and a nice vinaigrette. There are also some capers and anchovies to add acidity and savoury. Simple but good in taste.

Another starter we shared is Escargots de Bourgogne ($248). The signature French snails are baked together with garlic butter and parsley, with very fragrant aromas and rich taste. While many people might not like escargots because of their appearance, they have a softer texture than sea snails, which many HK people crave for.

Then we have pasta, Linguine aux Palourdes de Venise ($298). The Venetian clams are large and meaty, with the linguine having nice al dente texture, picking up the jus from the clams for delicious umami flavours. Together with some corn kernels, fresh herbs and garlic, even though it might look simple, it is very well done. 

For the main course we have one fish and one meat. Taking Turbot Entier Grille ($468), the whole grilled turbot is of good size and enough for two people. The fish is quite meaty, and the chef has poured in a butter sauce to tenderize the fish and adds richer flavours, with also lemon juice to freshen and stimulate the palate.

For the meat we have chosen Cote de Veau Grillee ($688). The veal chop is grilled to our requested medium level, juicy and tender, with a good balance of lean and fat. With only simple salt and black pepper as seasoning, the original flavours of the veal can be tasted fully, showcasing the quality of the meat.

With a full stomach, we go for a simple dessert. Selection de Sorbets ($35) has a wide range of homemade sorbets to choose from, and I opt for passion fruit. With the acidity of the fruit balancing well the sweetness, it is refreshing and helps to remove some of the heaviness of the main courses. My wife has the strawberry sorbet ($35) instead.

Service is good, with friendly and cheerful staff, and I see a wide clientele with customers entertaining business partners, people dating, tourists, and family groups. The bill on the night is $2,803. Considering the food quality, service and overall experience, I would rate this restaurant a Good score of 73 points, worth trying out.

Wineshark Mystery Restaurant - Sushi Kumogaku 寿し雲隠

Tonight, in Sushi Kumogaku is a special event for Chef Kin, as he has invited another famous chef in Toronto, Chef Jackie Lin, of Shoushin, for a 4-hands omakase dinner, offering customers a glimpse of the quality and sophistication of Japanese sushiya in Canada. Arriving sharp at 7pm, we are greeted by the staff and shown to our seats.

The Special Omakase Menu is priced at $3,200 each, and the dinner duly started with the arrival of all the guests. There are some familiar faces, as apparently the customers who got the opportunity to try out this special 4-hands dinner are mostly both chef’s loyal fans. I have a bottle of Cedric Bouchard Cote de Val Vilaine ($2,580) to pair with the food.

The first course is Steamed Egg Custard with Conger Eel 穴子茶碗蒸し. Using the head and bones of conger eel to prepare a broth, Chef Kin then mixes it with egg to steam, resulting in a silky soft chawanmushi. On top of the egg custard are two pieces of grilled conger eel, sprinkled with a bit of sansho pepper to season. 

The second course is Flounder Fish with Monkfish Liver 平目 鮟肝. The olive flounder has a delicate taste, of good bite, while the monkfish liver is great as always, with a richness but not the corresponding fattiness. Finally, the chef takes a piece of karasumi and shaves pieces on top, like black truffle, to give a savory taste to the dish.

The third course is Cuttlefish Sushi スミイカ. Carving on the surface with the knife to break the body and enable the shoyu to stay on the slippery surface, the texture of sumi-ika is amazing, with a nice crunch, not rubbery, having no difficulty in chewing. It has a deep sweetness on the bite.

The fourth course is Japanese Ice Fish Sushi 白魚. Wrapped in sakura tree leaf before steaming, the shirauo have been infused with the fragrance of the flowers, very soft and melt-in-the-mouth in texture. A special edomae sushi now seldomly seen.

The fifth course is Tuna Carpaccio 鮪カルパッチョ. A signature from Chef Jackie, the lean tuna, or akami, is served with ponzu jelly to provide acidity, with a drizzle of olive oil. On top there are some shiso flowers and kaiware, with the fragrance and special touch of spiciness to complement.

The sixth course is Smoked Monkfish Liver 鮟肝 燻製. The ankimo is fantastic in taste, with its great delicious flavours perfectly enriched by an additional touch of smokiness. On the surface there is a caramel sauce, made from reduction of the monkfish, with a sprinkle of sansho pepper powder. It was a must try.

The seventh course is Yellowtail Sushi 鰤. The buri is fatty, with soft flesh full of flavours. Chef Kin cuts two pieces of the fish and puts them on top of each other in making the sushi, creating a softer texture on the bite instead of a thick cut, a smart and thoughtful approach to good effect. 

The eighth course is Needle Fish 細魚. Typically, the fish are 70-80g each, but the ones Chef Jackie uses today are very large in size, over 100g, coming from Sendai. With a bit of chives inside, because of the transparent flesh of the sayori, it can be seen beneath the silvery sheen in the middle. Both pretty and delicious.

The ninth course is Snow Crab Cake Tempura 松葉カニ揚げ餅. Another of Chef Kin’s signatures, the zuwai-kani crab cake is steaming hot, just freshly deep-fried, without any oily feeling, and has some seaweed sprinkles to provide nice umami flavours, with also sudachi on the side for a citrus touch if needed.

The tenth course is Filefish Sushi 皮はぎ. The kawahagi is another type of fish famous for its liver, its flesh subtle in taste. The semi-transparent flesh, with the pinkish liver creates a nice-looking sushi, while the liver is not as rich as monkfish, the taste is pleasant and another prized ingredient for edomae sushi.

The eleventh course is Gizzard Shad Sushi 小肌. In my opinion, nothing is more edomae than kohada. Each sushi chef has his own recipe to cure the small silvery fish, and I like how Chef Jackie marinated without too much vinegar or salt. The fish is also large, having been brought all the way from Toronto. 

The twelfth course is Fish Milt Veloute 白子すり流し. I recall having this a few years ago, and only today can I try it again. The cod milt is prepared to form a paste, and mix with sushi rice, with some yuzu zest and wasabi to season. The creaminess and texture made it feel like a risotto, but with an additional touch of umami. 

Not on the menu, Chef Kin prepares some seasonal vegetables for us before going to the grilled fish, featuring chrysanthemum and shungiku. The crown daisy is the aromatic leafy vegetables, commonly known as tong ho in Cantonese, with a slight bitterness. Cooked in dashi, the vegetables are very fresh and tender. 

Coming to the fourteenth course, Longtooth Grouper with Mullet Roe 九絵 唐墨. The huge grouper has been aged for 15 days, to tenderize the meat and intensify its flavours, before grilling over charcoal, with the shaved karasumi, made by Chef Kin, on top. On the right is a single piece of karasumi, made by Chef Jackie, with a wonderful savoury taste. 

The fifteenth course is Tuna Sushi 鮪, Chu-Toro, with good balance of lean and fatty portion, very rich in flavours and amazing in taste.

The sixteenth course is also Tuna Sushi 鮪, but the fattier O-Toro. The melt-in-the-mouth texture is very pleasant and on each bite the fish oil seeps out, with great flavours.

The seventeenth course is Aji Sushi 鯵. The Japanese horse mackerel has beautiful silvery sheen, with the pinkish flesh rich in fish oil. Another great one. 

The eighteenth course is Kuruma Shrimp Sushi 車海老. The tiger prawn has a crunchy texture, very sweet in taste, and is served right after boiling so can retain a nice temperature. 

The nineteenth course is Sea Urchin Sushi 雲丹. The sea urchin has a bright orange colour, very sweet and without the weird alum note. Again, seeing Chef Kin does not need to use the nori sheet to form the gunkan to hold is testimony of his skills. 

The twentieth course is Conger Eel Sushi 穴子. Following through from the first course, this time the conger eel is made to a sushi, with the surreal texture of dissolving in the mouth completely, with the thick sauce balanced well on sweet and savoury. 

We also order a few additional sushi, first is Himo Roll ($120). Using the mantle of Ark Shell 赤貝, Chef Kin adds also some cucumber to enhance the crunchy texture even further.

Then I have an additional piece of Kohada, another of my favourite sushi in this evening. 

Another piece that I would order every single time is Kanpyo Roll 干瓢巻 ($80). The dried bottle gourd strips have a slightly sweet, with also deep umami.

The last additional order I have is Ankimo Roll 鮟肝巻 ($140). The rich and creamy monkfish liver, together with the kanpyo, are a match in heaven. A must order.

There are two pieces of Tamagoyaki 玉子焼, with each of the chef preparing one. Using only egg, sugar, fish, and shrimps, the egg is fluffy in texture and has nice umami. 

Miso Soup helps to warm our stomach, made with red miso, clams, and seaweed for a wonderful umami taste, wrapping up a fantastic meal with satisfaction.

The final dessert is Huadiao Ice-Cream, made from the famous Dongqu Winery. With its unique oxidative character, it is a nice and creative finale.

Service is fantastic, and there are a number of friendly customers who we can mingle and chat, and they are also generous in sharing some great wines with me. The bill on the night is $10,252. Worth every penny in my opinion, the food quality, service and overall experience remains impeccable. I give them a score of 85, must try.