2011年11月27日 星期日

Spain

There are many new developments in Spain, with unprecedented investment in the field as well as bodegas. There are 61 DO plus 2 DOCa (Rioja and Priorat). Their wine is enjoying international popularity because mainly of the ripeness and low costs. Many producers are rediscovering the indigenous strengths and traditional practices, as well as native grape varieties.
Spain’s advantages for vine are a combination of altitude and latitude. Apart from the uncivilized mountains and parts of the north, the rest is perfectly suited to vines. 90% of vineyards lie at altitudes higher than major French wine region. With cold winters and very hot summers, the biggest challenge is summer drought. As a result the vines are planted widely apart, resulting in Spain having the largest area under vine in the world. The vines are trained in bushes only just above ground level. Since 2003 irrigation is allowed on case-by-case basis, helping to increase yields. In La Mancha the introduction of machine harvesting and wire-trained vines also help.
The DO system is much less complicated than AC in France or DOC in Italy. With different terrains, conditions and grape varieties, producers are anxious only to improve quality. It is also far more common for the buying of grapes or wines than the practice of estate bottling. However, there are three DO Pagos (single estate denominations): Dominio de Valdepusa, Finca Elez in Albacete, and Deheza del Carrizal near Madrid.
There is the habit of releasing wines only when it is ready to drink which is appealing to consumers, and most bodegas actually age the wines longer than the customary requirements. However, with the influence of the French, not only the barrels were increasingly coming from French instead of American oak, some producers are abandoning or devaluing their Gran Reservas.
The smallest of Spain’s wine production zones is Galicia in the northwest. The Atlantic, the hills, the winds and a good deal of rain are the main climate factors. Godello, Treixadura and Mencia are the indigenous grapes. Ribeiro has good blends of Albarino, Treixadura, Loureira and Godello. Rias Baixas is the obvious star. Ribeira Sacra has Galicia’s most interesting reds coming from Mencia grape, as well as Monterrei. Valdeorras can produce extremely fine Godello worth ageing. In Bierzo the Mencia produces Spain’s fruitiest, most aromatic and refreshing reds. Alvaro Palacios put Bierzo on the map by producing Spain’s answer to Burgundy.
Majority of Castilla y Leon’s vineyards lie in the high Duero valley. Apart from Toro and Ribera del Duero, Cigales is already making some serious reds, but the most famous white comes from Rueda where the local Verdejo can produce very refreshing wines as Sauvignon Blanc, with red Rueda mainly made from Cabernet and Tempranillo, under VdlT label.
The River Ebro flows from Cantabrian Cordillera to Mediterranean in Catalunya. Upper Ebro has Rioja and Navarra where Tempranillo and Garnacha flourishes, with Campo de Borja providing inexpensive juicy Garnacha. Carinena is more for Cabernet-Tempranillo blends, with Calatayud home to some successful co-operative exporters.
Traditionally regarded as only for potent bulk wine, many of the DO in central Mediterranean coast are now producing fruity and even stylish reds. Examples like Julia Roch in Jumilla and Enrique Mendoza in Alicante. Manchuela has interesting Syrah and Monastrell blend as evidenced by Finca Sandoval. Bobal is also a characteristic variety in the region.
La Mancha is in the central of Spain with the high plateau of endless flat vineyards. Valdepenas has strong but pale red made historically from Airen tinted with some red. The region saw a conversion from light- to dark-skinned varieties. Besides Cencibel and Garnacha, other international varieties like Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah. Even Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc can be found now.
Near Madrid there is the most innovative vineyard of Marques de Grinon’s first DO Pago Dominio de Valdepusa, with imported grapes, new ways of growing and watering. At the frontier with Portugal there is Ribera del Guadiana, a relatively recent DO producing robust ripe wines similar to Altentejo in Portugal.
Despite over 1,150km away, the Canary Islands have joined the appellation, with quite a few DO. The most exciting wines are the zesty, citrus-peel whites made from local grapes as Marmajuelo and Gual. Mallorca has shared the pride with their native Manto Negro and Callet varieties.

2011年11月26日 星期六

Wineshark weekly - 27 November 2011

I have missed one week of this blog because of my super busy schedule and workload. Heading up a business is not something easy especially if you don't have a full team on the ground, not to mention my other regional role that still needs to be handled. As a result, also got sick and been coughing... I want to take a break to relax a bit, as I have not done that for really a long while now...

During my short break coming back to HK I went to Sheung Hing Chiu Chow Seafood Restaurant in Queen's Road West. A famous restaurant for the chiu chow community, I found the food acceptable but not particularly exceptional. The one I like most is the soup, with a lot of pepper which makes it spicy. But the braised goose, the veggie and the 'nine stomach fish' omelette are just so-so. Not exactly expensive but not cheap either, total HK$350 for two. And as they don't have parking I just have to park on the road and in the middle of the dinner have to 'evacuate' and go on a detour before coming back to park again and finish the meal...







Now spending half of my time each week in Philippines, on Thanksgiving Day eve I went alone to an Italian Restaurant called Zuni in Greenbelt Makati. The set menu was quite nice, with a salad, a soup, a main course (lapu-lapu), dessert and tea. Only charging at PHP1,300 it was a full, delicious dinner at a cozy environment. Suggest those who needs to go for work try that out.

 








On Friday I went out with my sales team to a new shop opening for one of the key account. The shop is located in Pampangas, about 2 hours drive from Manila. It is a Costco concept discount stores called S&R and the whole decor and environment is very similar. Met some other principals there and our distributor, and really having a good time. I then went with the team to a really local restaurant to try their delicacies - grilled pig ears and the sizzling minced pig face meat! Quite good to be honest, and even without air-con, the restaurant is not repelling. I like to visit such small shops whenever I travel to experience the local culture.

 








Yesterday went to a Cote de Beaune course organized by Sinolink. Nothing worth noting except that the tasting room is very nicely decorated. I think overall the contents are useful, but there is just no time to go through and too technical for most audience also. The wines tasted were also quite disappointing, but maybe should not have any expectation in such tasting (am I spoiled by organizing our own tasting with good wines all the times?).

2011年11月13日 星期日

Wineshark weekly - 13 November 2011

Originally this week started just like any other, and I can never foresee how things can turn my world upside down in a day. 10 Nov 2011 is a date I will remember, for a lot of reasons... Now that I am given this new job, I will do my best, for the people in the business, and for myself. How it will turn out, no one know but I am sure all my friends will give me their support, and frankly, that is what driving me on in many of the times...

Well, I think this blog is not meant to be so serious, so let me get back to the highlights of the week. I was only back on Sat noon so did not have chance to do much. I did cook though and made one of the most difficult (in terms of preparation) dish so far: Grill Chicken with Crabmeat Lobster Sauce, and Tomato Apple Salsa. Also prepared a Potato and Tuna Fish Cake salad as appetitizer. Both are good but unfortunately since the supermarket near my home did not have any crab actually I was forced to use just shrimps and the aromas I think is much less intense. The recipes can be found in the blog.

I am also beginning to write Weibo. You can find me in http://www.weibo.com/ and my name there is wineshark (no surprise!). The challenge for me is not to write in Chinese but more to type (I don't know any input method, I am ashamed to say...) so need to use my mouse to write each character on screen is not something fun also. I will need to buy a tablet. Anyone know which one is good?

Today's cooking class is back to normal, with a big group. We made a Grilled Pork Chop Stuffed Pineapple and a Spaghetti with Tomatos Mint Sauce. Quite easy to make and delicious. The next intake will be open for registration next week and if you are interested, please remember as the class will be full easily. I will probably apply the class on Sun morning in TST (course # KG07131).

In the next couple of weeks I will need to travel to Manila frequently to look after the business. I hope I can still manage my wine study and other things. But it also makes me cherish every single moment I can on things I love. This is maybe something we have to remember: to live everyday to the fullest, and when you are with someone you love, doing something you like, you will go for it to the last mile, and with that at least you won't regret no matter what happens.

May I wish everyone who read this blog a happy week! And I look forward to my wine tasting party next week also!

2011年11月12日 星期六

Wineshark Recipe - 17. Grill Chicken with Crabmeat Lobster Sauce and Tomato Apple Salsa


This is a complicated dish. Let's split it into three parts. The first part is to prepare the sauce. Ingredients:
  • Crabmeat - 1 1/2 oz
  • Fish stock - 4 lb
  • Shrimps and crabs - 1 lb 8oz
  • White wine - 4oz
  • Mixed vegetable shredded - 4oz
  • Flour - 4oz
  • Butter - 4oz
  • Brandy - 1 tbsp
  • Tomato paste - 2oz
  • Garlic finely - 1 tsp
  • Basil - 1 tsp
  • Thyme - 1tsp
  • Salt - 1 tsp
  • White pepper powder - 1/2 tsp
Put the shrimps and crabs in oven to heat till it is all dried up and crispy.

Heat the pan and put butter in, add garlic and mixed vegetable to stir fry. Then add flour till you can smell the nice aroma. Add tomato paste, and spray with brandy, gradually all the fish stock and the grilled shrimp and crabs to cook for about 1.5 hr.

Filter out the sauce and then add the seasonings and white wine, and add the cooked crabmeat finally.

The next is to prepare the Salsa. Ingredients:
  • Oil - 1 tbsp
  • Diced apple - 6oz
  • Tomato peeled and diced - 8oz
  • Apple cider vinegar - 2oz
  • Water - 2oz
  • Sugar - 1 tsp
  • Fresh Coriander - 1tbsp
First heat the pan with oil, then put the diced apple and cook till it softens. Add the tomato, vinegar, water and sugar and cook till little water is left.

Finally we grill the chicken. Ingredients:
  • Chicken breast - 4 pcs
  • Salt - 1/2 tsp
  • Black pepper finely - 1/2 tsp
Clean the chicken and then wipe it dry. Remove the skin and marinate. Then pan fry till it is golden on both sides and put into oven till it is fully cooked. Then pour the sauce on top of the chicken and with the salsa as side dish.

Wineshark Recipe - 16. Potato and Tuna Fish Cake

Ingredients:
  • Diced cooked potato - 1 lb
  • Mayonnaise - 3oz
  • Canned tuna fish - 1/2 can
  • Black olive - 4
  • Parsley finely - 1/2 tsp
  • Salt - 1/2 tsp
  • White pepper powder - little bit
  • David Gelatine - 1 tsp
  • Water - 9oz
First the potato should be cleaned and peeled. Cut into dices and put into boiling water with some salt, to cook for 8min. After that turn off the stove but keep the lid for a further 2-3min. Remove water and let it cool down, then add salt, white pepper powder and mayonnaise and mix well.

Put the potato in a rectangular tray, cover the potato with canned tuna and black olive. Put the parsley on top.

Mix the gelatin with water and stir till completely dissolved, then add to the potato. Put the tray into fridge to freeze.

2011年11月5日 星期六

Wineshark weekly - 6 November 2011

In the last two weeks I was very busy and did not post anything on my blog. Was away in Malaysia and Singapore the week before and then having the senior executives in my company coming to HK in this week. Been so busy preparing the presentations and other stuff, not to mention my own WSET Level 4 fortified wine exam... Really tired...

But now all those are over, and I can restart what I like most, wine and dine. But let me also say something about my WSET exam. Originally I planned to take the week off to study but with my schedule I can only study on the night before the exam. At the end you can guess what happened. So really just aiming to pass this time... For the tasting part, all 3 wines are madeira (not difficult to identify) but got one of them wrong on the grape (I think the first one is Verdelho but is in fact Sercial). Anyway, hope for the best...

Originally want to go to Mongkok on Thu night to 'Magic Lantern' seafood restaurant for some traditional dishes. But found that it was no longer in business! Can only go to the Jordan one next time. As a result we went back to hotpot in Sham Tseng. Met the owner and his wife who we haven't seen for a long while after they opened another branch in Tin Hau.

On Fri I have dinner with my wine buddy David and we finished two bottles of Merlot. One is Chateau Latour a Pomerol (Pomerol) and the other is Casa Lapostolle Merlot Cuvee Alexandre Apalta Vineyard (Chile). Both are nice and we enjoyed a good dinner at Kcal in Sham Tseng. We are thinking of organizing a mini wine tour to Macau to try some Portugual wine plus good food. Let's see whether we are able to get something arranged in the near future...

Yesterday I cooked two dishes, Cream of Chicken Soup and Roast Spring Chicken. Please refer to my other blog pages for the recipe. My oven is really not up to par and it took me more than 1.5 hour to cook the chicken at the max. power. Will have to go to look for a good one soon. Anyone got good recommendation?

Just the last thing before I go to my cooking class. I am starting to post something on weibo also. Feel free to check me out!

Wineshark Recipe - 15. Roast Spring Chicken

Ingredients:
  • Spring Chicken - 1 unit
  • Onion Sliced - 1oz
  • Celery - 1oz
  • Carrot - 1oz
  • Black Pepper - 1/2 tsp
  • Thyme - 1 tsp
  • Salt - 1 1/2 tsp
  • White Pepper Powder - 1/2 tsp
  • Oil - 1 tsp
First clean up the spring chicken and the inside, dry with tissue paper. Mix the vegetable and seasonings together by hand, and squeeze till all the aromas comes out. Stuff the vegetable inside the chicken and cover remaining on top. Pour the oil on the chicken and put it in oven, using 250 deg C to roast.

Wineshark Recipe - 14. Cream of Chicken

First, we need to make the White Thickening. The below will make 75g of thickening.

Ingredients:
  • Oil - 20ml
  • Butter - 20g
  • Flour - 75g
  • Bay Leaf - 2 pcs
Heat the oil and butter, then put in the bay leaf and flour. Use a small fire to slowly stir till you can smell the good aromas. Avoid overcooking and burning.

For the soup, ingredients:
  • White Thickening - 75g
  • White Stock - 1200ml
  • Evaporated Milk - 40ml
  • White Wine - 30ml
  • Salt - 1/2 tsp
  • Avoset - 50ml
  • Sugar - 1/4 tsp
  • White Pepper Powder - 1/4 tsp
  • Cooked Diced Chicken - 60g
First put the white thickening in the pot, and add some stock to mix and dissolve. Then pour the hot stock into the thickening and cook using small fire for about 45min. Add the evaporated milk, avoset, white wine and seasonings. Finally add the diced chicken.

2011年11月4日 星期五

Chateau Latour a Pomerol

This chateau belongs to the famous JP Moueix, the owner of Petrus. Unlike most other properties in Pomerol, this chateau has plots scattered throughout the appellation. In the 19th century, there was a family in Pomerol named Chambaud. The vineyard they owned formed the basis of today’s Latour a Pomerol. The sole heiress later on married Louis Garitey in 1875, and the property stayed in the ownership of the family until 1914 when it was divided between their three daughters. One of them, Madame Loubat, went on to acquire two estates (Haut-Canton-Guillot near Trotanoy and Clos des Grandes-Vignes near the church in Pomerol), solidifying the vineyards of current chateau.
The estate was in the hands of Loubat until 1961, and was inherited by her niece Lily Lacoste. It benefited from the business relationship with the Moueix family, who took on responsibility for tending the vines, plus making and marketing the wines. In 2002 she donated the whole estate to the charitable Foundation de Foyers de Charite de Chateauneuf de Galaure, with Moueix still managing the business.
The principal vineyard is the Grandes-Vignes plot, covering 5 hectares. Overall of 8 hectares, the soil is mainly sandy clay and gravel. Average age of vine is 35 years, with 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc. Hand-harvested, the fruit is fermented in temperature-controlled concrete vats and aged in 50% new barrels for 18 months. No second wine is produced.
I have just tasted the 2005 vintage. A bit too early to drink and the wine will certainly develop into more interesting characters.
Vintage: 2005
Grape: 90% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc
ABV: 13%                    
Price: HK$698 (Goodwine)
Tasting Date: 5 November 2011
Official website: www.moueix.com
Wineshark Score: 90

Deep ruby in colour, this Pomerol has a fairly intense and developing nose of black cherry, blackberry, plum, liquorice, sandalwood, chocolate, cedar and smoke. A lively and fairly high acidity accompanies medium level tannin of ripe and velvety texture. Medium body with a medium intense palate of black cherry, blackcurrant, plum, liquorice, sandalwood, toast, cedar and smoke. Overall of good quality with good acidity and juicy fruit characters, fairly intense and complex nose, reasonable length. Ready to drink now though can benefit from further ageing of another 3-5 years.