This Japanese sushi restaurant is located in Four Seasons Hong Kong, the first overseas outlet of one of the famous sushi restaurants in Japan. Awarded Michelin 2-star, the supplies actually are hand-picked by Takashi Saito himself and flown from Tokyo daily.
We came here for lunch as the dinner service is essentially not available for booking unless you have special connection, and of course currently it is also not available due to government restriction. There are only 8 seats around the sushi counter, and with the social distancing it means only 6 people can be seated anytime, the ambience is one you would find in high-end sushi restaurants in Japan.
Ordering the lunch omakase menu ($1,780 per person) I also had the Isojiman Brewery Junmai Ginjo 磯自慢 純米吟醸 ($480 per carafe), with the premium sake having a mild taste and a good match for most sashimi and sushi.
The first course is Monkfish Liver, or Ankimo 鮟肝, with the liver marinated in a fantastic sauce which presented a wonderful umami note. The liver essentially melts in the mouth, with rich flavors on a long length. Very good.
Next is Scallop, or Hotategai 帆立貝. The chef prepared the scallop in the kitchen, lightly grilled and then served by wrapping a piece of seaweed on it. The size of the scallop is frankly one of the largest I have seen, and even at this size on the bite the scallop did not have any tough fiber. A clear indication of the great quality on the ingredients.
Starting on the sushi, the first piece is Yellowtail, or Buri 鰤. The chef has marinated briefly the fish in a sauce to infuse with flavors before preparing the sushi. From the way he took just the amount of rice he will from the kitchen to the bucket to use for the pieces to ensure the right temperature, the techniques in putting the sushi together, it is testimony to the skills of the chef. It is a pure pleasure eating the sushi, with the fish very fresh and the sauce spot on to highlight the flavors of the fish.
The second piece is Gizzard Shad, or Kohada 小鰭. This silver fish has many dark spots and is one of the seasonal fish as well as a signature for Edomae sushi. By itself the fish is quite fishy in taste but the chef has put in vinegar to neutralize it to make it enjoyable. A prized sushi one must try in winter season in my opinion.
Then we have the Tuna in a row, beginning with the Lean Tuna, or Akami 赤身. The deep red meat is marinated in the special sauce for a slightly longer period to allow more time to soak in the flavors, and the result is perfect. Typically this is not my favorite in most sushi restaurants but this one I like very much.
The second tuna is Medium-Fatty Tuna, or Chu-toro 中とろ. Having more fat in the flesh, it has more intense flavors from the fish oil. and a softer mouthfeel than the akami. For me this cut is generally what I would prefer when ordering tuna, as I found the best balance of fish oil and flesh, and this one certainly delivers that wonderful experience.
The third tuna is Fatty Tuna, or O-toro 大とろ. The most prime cut of the whole tuna, it fetches the highest price with the texture very tender and soft, virtually dissolving on biting. Sometimes I found it too oily for my liking, but the cut from this restaurant is so perfect that I could not find excessive fattiness and a truly phenomenal piece.
Then we have another prized fish, Blackthroat Seaperch or Nodoguro 喉黒. This fish is named as there is a black coloration on the inside of the throat. The taste of the fish in my opinion is quite similar to Kinmedai but got more fat and so a richer flavor, and is another great piece of sushi I recommend if you have the opportunity to try.
Coming next is the Salmon Roes, or Ikura 筋子. The chef has marinated the salmon roes beforehand to give some savory and saltiness, and the most amazing thing happens when I bite into the roes. Not only the flavors are great, but there is seemingly no membrane of the roes, as there is no residue in the mouth biting. I do not know whether it is the quality or some special techniques in preparation, but this is the first time I had such experience. Truly wonderful.
Then we have Sea Urchin, or Uni. This one is of deep orange in color, and the chef has generously put two layers of the sea urchin on the sushi. With a nice sweet taste and not any hint of weird note, the quality of the sea urchin is definitely top-notch and another great one.
Another highly regarded piece follows, Sea Eel or Anago 穴子. The eel is grilled and after making into the sushi the chef brushed some of the homemade sauce which adds wonders to the taste. Eating the eel one would feel it melts in the mouth, as if it is a piece of marshmallow. Another must-try in my opinion.
Then it comes to one that I have been looking forward to, when I saw the chef laid out the different ingredients on the table. My first sushi experience started so many years ago with this piece, Futomaki or 太巻. Of course the ingredients then was much less premium. Seeing the chef put the ingredients on the mat and roll it up before cutting it to pieces, I quickly swallow it in one bite, and the pure joy prompted me the urge to immediately ask for one additional piece.
We are then served with the Miso Soup. The soup is flavorful and rich in umami taste. A very satisfying and fulfilling experience to complete the meal.
But wait, the chef asked whether we would like to have anything more. I decided to have something else and ordered a Tiger Prawn or Kuruma-ebi 車海老 ($300). After grilling, the chef removed the shell of the prawn in front of us and then cut in half to remove also the intestine, then prepares the sushi. The prawn has a wonderful bouncy bite and a great sweet taste. I have to congratulate myself for making a good choice.
The chef then handed two pieces of Steamed Egg, or Tamago. It is very soft and delicate, but on the flavors it is robust with complexity, with the chef obviously using a nice broth to mix with the egg before steaming it. One of the best tamago I have tasted.
Finally it is dessert and we have a slice of nice Melon. Very sweet and juicy, it completes a great meal and also a wonderful dining experience for both of us.
Service throughout is good, with the staff attentive and courteous, but in a way there may not be the friendliness one would experience for visiting some of the other 'local' omakase restaurants where the chef (and the staff) would interact with the customers more.
The bill was $5,410 with two servings of the sake and overall the price is quite high, but considering the quality of the food, the specialty of the ingredients, and the overall experience, it is still one restaurant I believe you should visit at least once.
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