2011年12月31日 星期六

Domaine du Pegau

The Feraud family have been winemakers in Chateauneuf-du-Pape for over 150 years. The vineyards have changed hands several times, but the traditions were maintained so the wines always show the true terroir. Domaine du Pegau was incorporated as a partnership in 1987 between father and daughter Paul and Laurence Feraud.
The vineyards comprise eight parcels, totaling 18 ha, with the favored east-southeast exposure. It composed largely of a Miocene sandy marl, overlying a mass of limestone and large quartzite pebbles. The appellation is renowned for this glacial deposit, bringing the vines to early maturity by absorbing heat during the day and giving it out at night. The vines range from 20 to 92 years of age, and yields are around 30 hl/ha.
The vineyards are carefully cultivated by hand. Pruning begins in December at intervals until March, and green vine branches are snapped by hand, with pre-selection of buds that only the best developed and had the best exposure would be maintained to ensure quality of the crop. The soils are aerated throughout the year with organic matters added every two years. Weedkillers are not used.
When the grapes reached optimal maturity they are hand-picked and carefully separated. The vinification processes are natural and traditional, with a brief foulage and then whole bunches are put in vats to macerate for 15 days. Once the fermentation is completed the juice is decanted to large oak foudres to mature for a minimum of 18 months. No fining or filtration is carried out.
The Pegau estate produces one of Chateauneuf-du-Pape’s most majestic, old-style, robust, super-concentrated wines. Until 1987, they sold much of its production to negociants. In 1998, they added the signature wine, Cuvee da Capo, to Cuvee Reservee and Cuvee Laurence. It is coming from primarily old-vine Grenache, but all 13 authorized varietals are also in this 4000-5000 bottles cuvee that originates from the estate’s oldest parcels on La Crau. It has been produced only in 1998, 2000, 2003 and 2007. The wine can easily age well for two decades. Cuvee Laurence (with about 650 cases produced in top vintages) is largely identical to Cuvee Reservee but kept two to three years longer in small oak casks (no new oak is ever used).
My recent tasting of the Cuvee da Capo 1998:
Vintage: 1998
Grape: 90% Grenache, 10% other 12 permitted varieties
ABV: 16%                    
Price: HK$4653
Tasting Date: 30 December 2011
Official website: www.pegau.com
Wineshark Score: 96

Outstanding premium Chateauneuf-du-Pape with deep ruby colour, intense and developing nose of earth, smoke, violet, black cherry, raspberry, savory, tea leaf and herbs. Lively, fairly high in acidity with ripe, fairly high level fine-grained tannin, the wine has a high alcohol level but not heady, of full body. An intense and complex palate showing earth, mineral, smoke, black cherry, cranberry, savory, herbs and tea leaf, it has vivid freshness plus well-structured harmony, accompanied by a fairly long length. Good balance and concentration, the nose is not yet fully open despite decanting for more than 3 hours, allowing only a glimpse of the full potential. Ready to drink now but has potential for ageing of another 10-15 years.

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