2011年12月25日 星期日

Burgundy Grand Cru series - Clos St-Denis

It is the smallest of the four Grands Crus wholly situated in Morey. The heart of the appellation is the Clos St-Denis. It may seem surprising that the burghers of Morey chose Clos St-Denis as their preferred suffix when Morey became Morey St-Denis on 1927. But that maybe because they were without much choice, as Clos de Tart was excluded (in single ownership), Clos de la Roche would sound awkward and Clos des Lambrays was not a Grand Cru.

It covers 6.63 ha in total, with 20 owners. Average annual production is 2,255 cases. Principal owners include Georges Lignier, Dujac, Ponsot, Bertagna, Arlaud and Jadot. The original Clos belonged to the Canons of the Chapter of St-Denis de Vergy. Planted by monks in the 13th century, it then passed into the hands of Marey-Monge family and subsequently sold and became fragmented.

The major macro-influence on Clos St-Denis is the Combe de Morey which spans east to west above Morey. This means that fruit on the south-facing exposure ripens faster and better than that of the north-facing side. The more favourable exposure promotes malic acid production over tartaric acid, thus reducing acidity of the finished wines.

The vineyard slopes relatively even from Calouere to Chaffots. The soil contains hard limestone, with a good larding of rock fragments, strewn with flat, angular limestones, overlain by thick gravelly scree. Soil tends to collect at the lower sections of the vineyard, with fine-grained gravels.

Clos St-Denis consistently produces the most elegant wines of all Morey Grands Crus, with finesse, subtlety and delicacy its hallmarks. Though not showing the aromatic intensity of Musigny, it is the most Chambolle-ish in Morey with fruit style redolent more of red than black fruit. It fuses depth and richness with its fragrance, but less structure than Clos de la Roche, and even more pronounced than Bonnes-Mares.

Wines I got from this Grand Cru:

Ÿ             Domaine Dujac, 2004
Ÿ             Georges Lignier, 2005

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