This restaurant is located on 16/F Cubus at Causeway Bay, a collaboration from two chefs Donovan Cooke and Scott Pickett. Previously known just as Donovan, the restaurant was closed for four months when Chef Donovan returned to Australia for a surgery and recovery. I was glad to see him return to HK and restart this business since April.
Stepping out from the escalator one would see the wine cellars with a wide selection, and the staff leads us to the main dining room, able to accommodate around 30 guests. Seated at a booth, the whole ambience offers an intimate and cozy vibe, with warm lighting, comfy banquette, plenty of wood and brass in the furniture and decors.
The Tasting Menu is $988 per person, and I also open a bottle of Marc Colin St-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly 2021 ($1,280). The wine has nice citrus and green apple notes, with good acidity and a refreshing palate of minerality. A straightforward wine of finesse, it is best to serve slightly chilled but not too cold, to allow more aromas to blossom.
The Amuse Bouche contains three bite-sized snacks. The first one is a Puff with Smoked Eel, with pomelo on top. The creamy filling inside the crunchy puff, together with the fragrant smoked eel, is enticing, with the pomelo giving a bit of sweetness.
The second one is Shell stuffed with Diced Trout and Fennel, together with cream, dill and salmon roes. The perfect combination of trout and dill create wonders on taste, with the poppy salmon roe adding umami to this nicely done starter.
The third is Chicken Liver Pate that is spherical in shape, coated with a glaze to resemble blackcurrant, and providing some acidity plus sweetness to balance the rich and indulgent liver pate. Served on a crispy chicken skin, it is a thoughtful presentation, not only pretty but also facilitates in picking up. More importantly, it is also delicious.
The meal officially starts with Tsukuji Kanisho. The delicate Japanese king crab meat is mixed with Iberico ham, tomato and basil, before pouring in a tomato and vegetable consommé. On top is a tomato sorbet, sprinkled with some dehydrated black olives. A refreshing cold dish with lots of flavors, and nice appetizing acidity to start.
The second course is Hokkaido Uni Chawanmushi. Under the silky-smooth egg custard are some Hokkaido sea urchin which are nice in taste, as well as pickled cucumber for a contrast in texture. On top, apart from the crunchy razor clam with nice umami taste, the chef has prepared a caviar and clam sauce with dill oil which are truly amazing in flavours.
The bread served is one of the highlights on this meal. With a crunchy crust having a nice brown sugar caramelization, the brioche has a mild miso flavor embedded. Either on its own or paired with French butter infused with seaweed, it is very good.
The third course features local Scallop seared beautifully while keeping the inside moist and soft. With some diced celeriac and apple to give a crunchy contrast, the sauce is made from the skirt of the scallop to provide umami flavors. Together with pepper and celeriac puree, and a bit of vanilla seeds, the black truffle shaves further adds to the rich taste.
The fourth course is King Salmon, which has been slow cooked in olive oil, very tender and flavorful. On the side are some diced zucchini and tomato, plus the small but very sweet and delicious Bouchot mussels. The sauce is a blend of saffron and basil oil, and everything is harmonized in taste and super tasty. One of my favorites tonight.
The fifth and additional course features Spanish Carabinero (supplement $180 each). Fully using every part of the prized red prawn, the prawn is half cooked to maintain its texture and sweetness, and a sauce made from espelette pepper and the prawn head with intense flavors, with grated yuzu to balance with acidity and refreshing palate. Very nice.
The sixth course serves the prime Iberico Pluma, a special cut of pork known for its juicy and tenderness. Cooked perfectly, the pork is paired with a spiced sauce that brings forth a nice cumin fragrance but not the heat. Together with some butternut pumpkin, in the form of dice and puree, for a bit of sweetness. Very enjoyable.
The seventh course features Bresse pigeon. The pigeon breast has been marinated with madeira, port and Armagnac, before slow cook and pan-searing to caramelize the skin. Fantastic in taste, with the meat tender and juicy, it is paired with a tasty sauce made with beetroot and blackcurrant.
On the side is a beetroot tart, and finishes with a grilled pigeon leg, stuffed with pulled meat and tarragon. Another of my favorites on the menu.
The eighth course is Pistachio and Cherry. Inside the bowl are cherry compotes of nice sweetness, with pistachio pieces to give a crunchy bite. On top is the cherry sorbet for its rich flavors, also providing the acidity to freshen the palate, along with pistachio cream at the bottom, helping to transition to the dessert and the final dish of the menu.
The last course is a Valrhona Chocolate Coulant. The molten lava cake is perfectly baked, with the chocolate oozing out once the crust is broken. The rich 75% dark chocolate has the right balance of bitterness and sweetness, while the Mandarin Sorbet on the side provides an interesting contrast in temperature, and the acidity to balance.
A Lemon Cream Madeleine is served as petits fours to wrap up the dinner. Service is very good, with the staff friendly and attentive, the sommelier is also knowledgeable on the wines.
The bill is very reasonable at $4,281. With the good food quality, nice service and cozy ambience, it is a place I would like to return, to perhaps try the fours hand at the end of the month with Chef Donovan and Scott working together.
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