Located in Mandarin Oriental, The Krug Room is the only remaining Krug Room in the world, operated in partnership with Champagne House Krug. It is well-hidden and we need to first approach the Mandarin Grill & Bar, before the manager shows us, going through The Chinnery and a door leading into the back of house, before coming to this ‘secret’ restaurant.
The restaurant is an exclusive and private space, designed to resemble a luxurious train carriage with windows on one side looking out to the busy kitchen. In the middle of the room is a large communal table able to accommodate eight diners. On one end there are several wine cabinets displaying bottles of Krug, including the rare Clos d’Ambonnay and Clos du Mesnil, as well as some older vintages, which are also available for sale.
The tasting menu ($3,988), though looks expensive, includes a pairing of 4 glasses of Krug. Designed by Executive Chef Robin Zavou, the courses not only aim to present a good sensory complement with the champagnes, they are also made using seasonal ingredients with an emphasis on responsible sourcing, using local produces as much as possible.
While waiting for the other diners to arrive, we are served a glass of Krug Grande Cuvee 172eme Edition to start as aperitif. The champagne is refreshing and smooth, with six years of bottle fermentation, so the bubbles are elegant, consistent and fine, with a nice toasty and yeasty flavours on top of nice white flowers, almond and citrus fruit, along with some grassy notes. Very pleasant.
There are a couple of starters in the menu. The first one is Cone, with a creamy filling of homemade Koji paste inside, some Hokkaido Uni in the middle, and topped with Shiso and edible flowers. The sea urchin has a nice sweetness and rich in umami. A nice appetizer.
The second starter is Garden. The chef uses Tofu and Miso to make a paste for dipping, crumbling some rye bread to scatter on top to resemble earth in the garden, with some very fresh Radish on top. The two types of radishes include the white Japanese mini-turnip, sweeter in taste while the American radish has a reddish skin and crunchier in texture. The leaves can also be eaten, with a slight bitter taste. Another wonderful appetizer.
The third course is Flower. Inside the Zucchini flower the chef has stuffed two different Ebi delicacies, including minced Spanish carabineros and lobster mousse, with a touch of Zest from yuzu to give freshness to balance the rich and intense taste. On the side are three sauces, the black one is homemade scallop reduction which has intense umami flavours. The red-coloured sauce is made from roasting the red prawn heads, grinding them to extract the essences, before cooking with butter. The remaining is the light shoyu sauce which bring forward the umami of the prawn and lobster. Truly memorable.
The fourth course is Krug. The raw Australian spiny Lobster meat has been marinated in Krug for 3-4 minutes, very much like a ceviche, with the citrus notes coming from the champagne. The dish finishes with some Kohlrabi puree and homemade miso. On top are some jelly sheets made from soy, sake and mirin, plus Caviar and fresh coriander, fennel, shiso flowers and dill flowers. These aromatic herbs go well with the champagne, with ponzu as dressing. Amazing.
The second glass of champagne is Krug Vintage 2011. This has a comparatively more intense aromas and flavours, with more oaky and fruity notes, probably coming from the higher proportion of Pinot Noir in the blend, and the hot weather of the year. It is offered after a cellaring of 13 years, with a deep elegance and finesse, a bit like enjoying a really nice white wine.
The fifth course is Ocean. Using the best catch of the day, the chef features kinmedai and awabi from Japan. After steaming the splendid alfonsino, he added a bit of grated bottarga on top to add savoury and umami flavours. Under the fish there is the Abalone, which has been braised beautifully to great tenderness, paired with a sauce made from the liver of the abalone. The dish finishes with some Pickled Mooli and lemon juice to give a bit of citrus and acidity to balance. Wonderful.
The sixth course is Forest. There is a layer of white foam, under which are the Escargot which have good bites, together with some Nettle, offering a bit of fresh cucumber taste with a bit of acidity. To highlight the fall season the chef has shaved some Truffle on top, with the nice earthy aromas integrating everything well. Taking a scoop which includes all the components is a rewarding experience.
The third glass of champagne is Krug Rose 27eme Edition, with the base wines coming from vintages from 2015 all the way to 2005, with also 10% traditionally macerated Pinot Noir, spending around seven years in cellar before release. The wine has rose buds and a bit of savoury notes on top of redcurrant and grapefruit, with a feeling like drinking red wine. Perfect to pair with the main courses.
The seventh course is Farm I, with the chef making a folded cabbage Taco, and on the inside are some braised Pigeon meats, tender from the slow-cooked process, with nice smoky BBQ flavours. On top of the taco is the crispy kale, and there are four sauces to go with the pigeon, including hoisin, BBQ, mushroom ketchup, and black garlic. A fusion dish where we see a lot of the elements showcasing the Chinese dish pigeon cabbage wrap. Interesting and delicious.
The eighth course is Farm II. Featuring the A4 deep-fried wagyu beef from Kagoshima. It has a crispy surface, while still keeping the inside medium rare and tender. The beef is not too fatty, having a rich flavour, seasoned well with a bit of black pepper. Paired with some Smoke Trout Roes and Mexican Mole sauce, the chef also has a mini turnip on the side to balance with its delicate crunchy freshness. Very good as well.
The fourth and last champagne returns back to Krug Grande Cuvee 172eme Edition, in order to take advantage of the freshness, floral and citrusy taste to match with the desserts. To transition, the palate cleansing Vert is served, featuring Golden Kiwi and Shiso sorbet, with kiwi and lime caviar at the bottom. The foam on top is made using Aloe Vera with shiso. Very refreshing.
The tenth course is Autumn. Very beautifully presented like a flower, with the centrepiece being a Walnut ice-cream, and surrounded by thin wafer with a touch of Cinnamon. At the bottom there are Pear jus made from reduction of the juice, plus two types of pear preparation, one cooked and one infused with syrup. Great in taste and not too sweet.
The petit four features Cocoa. Creatively presented on a log of wood, there are several thin sheets of Chocolate of five different Flavours, including yuzu, matcha, raspberry, salted caramel, and sesame. The crunchy Textures are appealing and a good complement with the coffee, finishing the meal with a great sense of satisfaction.
Service is very good, with the staff friendly and attentive, and apparently, I also get the opportunity to connect with my friend who works in The Chinnery as well. The bill on the night is $8,882 and while this may look dauntingly expensive, consider the four glasses of Krug and the food itself it is actually reasonable. If you are a champagne lover, this secret restaurant is one you should not miss.
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