2020年7月6日 星期一

Wineshark Wine Tasting - Domaine Jacques-Frederic Mugnier

At the beginning of the 20th century, the estate founded in 1863 by Frederic Mugnier, a liquor-maker in Dijon, included nearly 20 hectares of the best vineyards spread over Chambolle-Musigny and Nuits-Saint-Georges.

In 1950, following the economic crisis of the 1930s and the world war, Jacques-Frederic Mugnier, great-grandson of the first Frederic, chose to sell the liquor business, and lease the vineyard out to a negociant in Nuits-Saint-Georges.

The contract on the Chambolle vineyard ended in 1978 and 6 years later Frederic Mugnier, son of Jacques-Frederic, assumed full responsibility for the family estate.

The most recent addition to the estate was the return of Clos de la Marechale to the domaine in 2004, changing dramatically its size and allowing a new and better organization.

Today, around Jocelyne and Frederic Mugnier, the permanent team of the domaine: Adeline, Audrey, Damien, Fabien, Guillaume, Patrick and Philippe, is attentive to every detail in order to bring from the vineyard to the cellar and to your glass the best Nature can give.

The approach to both viticulture and wine-making is aimed at preserving in the wines the purest expression of Nature with minimal interference from technological practices.

They have a pragmatic approach to viticulture and favor hand work and preventive protection methods in the vineyard. The purpose is not to eradicate pests and diseases but to preserve or restore a rich and active ecosystem.

With healthy and ripe grapes grown on the greatest terroirs, wine-making only has to be kept simple and respectful.

The tradition of Clos de la Marechale's white wine was lost during the last 50 years, but several exceptional old bottles found buried in the cellar convinced the owners to revive this rare wine. Thus the Clos de la Marechale exists in two colors since the 2005 vintage.

In order to recreate a Chardonnay plantation straight away capable of producing adult vine quality material, they chose to apply a technique rarely used in Burgundy known as top-grafting.

Rather than ripping out the vines to start anew, this technique consists of preserving the old vine (previously grafted to Pinot Noir) and inserting a Chardonnay bud under the bark of its trunk, which, over the following weeks, will fuse with the wood of the old vine, feed on its sap and develop, giving the fruit in the following year.

This delicate technique requires intense and meticulous work in the first year but ensures the preservation of the plant's well-developed root system, allowing it to continue producing high quality grape material.

They have thus top-grafted approximately 6000 plants, together producing 2000 to 3000 bottles per year.



The 2011 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Clos de la Marechale Blanc has nice, complex nose showing lemon, green apple and pear, with blossoms and mineral elements, supplemented with a buttery and toasty note, plus also development characters of mushroom. The good acidity of the wine brings a lively palate, showing elegance and good concentration, with also a nice long finish. 

2020年7月5日 星期日

Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Asiania Restaurant 喜萬年酒樓


This restaurant has a long history, originally located in Wanchai Hennessy Road. Started in 1973, the restaurant also had a nightclub attached which was closed in 1994. Because the building was demolished for re-development, it moved to the current location in 2013, at the basement of Emperor Group Centre, continuing to be based in Wanchai.

Coming tonight with my wife, mother and brother, the four of us were seated at one of the VIP rooms, and seeing all the other tables in the main dining hall were occupied, demonstrated the popularity of the restaurant, which offers traditional Cantonese cuisines.


We ordered a number of the signature dishes, starting with the Pig Uteri in Master Stock 鹵水爽脆生腸 ($138). The pig uteri had been cleaned thoroughly, without any weird taste, and having a great crunchy texture. Absorbing the nice complex taste of the master stock, the pig uteri was one of the best I had eaten in Hong Kong. A must-try in my opinion.


The second signature dish was Asiania Roasted Suckling Pig 喜萬年金牌乳豬 ($298 in 1/4 portion). Served with some steamed dough pieces, the skin of the suckling pig was thin and without any fatty layer, with a wonderful crispy texture. The restaurant got its pride for freshly roasted the pigs in the kitchen. The pig was marinated well, with the meat also having nice flavors. Another must-try and it is no surprise seeing basically every table having this ordered.


We also tried the Braises Garoupa Head and Belly with Bitter Gourd in Clay Pot 麵醬苦瓜龍躉頭腩煲 ($238). Immediately noticeable because of the great aromas, the pieces of fish was added with roasted pork, shiitake mushroom and bitter gourd, in a sizzling hot clay pot. The sauce was nice, having the great smell from the bean paste and not overly salty, able to bring forward the savory taste of the ingredients. The bitter gourd also did not have any 'green' note, with only a slight bitter taste which for most people would not find repelling. Another dish nicely done.


My mother wanted to try this one: Pan-fried Lotus Root Cake with Salted Fish and Minced Pork 鹹魚肉鬆蓮藕餅 ($118). The taste of the lotus root cake was good, with both sides pan-fried nicely to golden brown. My only suggestion would be to add more salted fish and lotus root to the patty. Unfortunately none of us could find any salted fish taste on the cake and because there were not sufficient lotus root the cake was lacking a bit of the crunchiness we looked forward to. But overall not too bad.


The other signature dish we got was Baked Fish Intestines with Egg 家鄉雞蛋焗魚腸 ($148). Having made a similar dish myself I knew how much work it took to clean the fish intestines properly, and I found this one did not got any fishy taste, even without having to add a lot of white pepper powder, which was always a worry when ordering such. There were also some mandarin peel added which helped to remove any fishy note and also enhancing the aromas. While the taste was good, I found the egg over-cooked and the dish gave me a feel of eating a cake. Not sure whether this was what the chef intended to do...


Wrapping up we had the Fried Rice with Conpoy and Egg White 珧柱蛋白珍菌炒飯 ($128). The fried rice was textbook, with each rice grain distinct. There were some fried conpoy on top, along with pieces of choi sum stems to give additional crunchy texture. The rice was a bit under-seasoned though, and would need a bit more salt to make it even better.


For dessert we had the Sweet Egg Twists 蛋散 ($40). This one was a pleasant surprise, with the egg twists fluffy and airy, and dipping with the golden syrup got a good balance of the taste from the egg and the sweetness. Another of my recommendation.

The service overall was good, with the staff attentive and even for us sitting in the VIP room we did not feel we were left alone. The bill was $1,341 which was reasonable too. Keeping up the good works I was sure the restaurant would continue to shine in the local Cantonese cuisine battlefield. 

Wineshark Cooking Class - Fillet of Sole Roulade Prawns

Ingredients (for 4):

  • Fillet of sole - 4 
  • Prawns - 8
  • Salt - 1/2 tsp
  • White pepper powder - dashes
  • Dry white wine - 2 tsp
  • Lemon juice - 1 tsp
  • Bacon - 8 strips



Procedures:

1. Wipe dry the fillet of sole and then slice into two. Marinate with salt, white pepper powder, white wine and lemon juice.

2. Remove the shell of the prawns, then remove the intestines but keep the tail. 

3. Wrap the bacon, fillet and prawn into a roll. Use toothpick to skewer.

4. Heat a pan to medium heat with some oil, then pan-fry the roulade on both sides.

5. Remove the roulade and take away the toothpick. Put in a baking tray and bake for 8 minutes, under 230 degree Celsius.

6. Pour the topping white sauce on top before serving. 

2020年7月4日 星期六

Wineshark Cooking Class - Topping White Sauce 白汁

Ingredients (for 4):

  • Butter - 2 tbsp
  • Flour - 3 tbsp
  • Mustard - 1 tsp
  • Milk - 8 oz
  • Cheddar cheese - 1/2 cup
  • Egg - 1




Procedures:

1. Heat the butter under low heat, and then add the flour. Mix well and cook for about 1 minute.

2. Add the milk to mix well, creating the thick sauce.

3. Add the cheddar cheese and mix well. Then pour in the whisked egg. Season with mustard and salt.


Wineshark Cooking Class - Smoked Chicken Apple Salad 煙雞蘋果沙律

Ingredients (for 4):

  • Green apple - 2
  • Celery - 6 oz
  • Cucumber - 6 oz
  • Red onion - 2 oz
  • Smoked chicken - 8 oz
  • Raisin - 2 tbsp
  • Mint leaf - 1 tbsp
  • Lemon juice - 2 tbsp
  • Plain yogurt - 1 cup
  • Salt - 1/2 tsp
  • Lettuce - 1/2 
Procedures:

1. Peel the green apple and cut into strips.

2. Peel the celery and cut into strips.

3. Peel the cucumber and cut into strips.

4. Cut the red onion into shreds.

5. Cut the mint leaf into shreds.

6. Put the raisin in warm water to soak for 10 minutes. Then drip dry.

7. Mix the ingredients together and add plain yogurt, lemon juice and salt.

8. Put the lettuce on the bowl and then the salad on top.


2020年7月3日 星期五

Wineshark Wine Tasting - Bodegas Volver

 The project of Bodegas Volver was founded in 2004 by Rafael Canizares, enologist through studies and viticulturist through his family tradition of four generations bound to the vine and wine.

The pillars of the bodega are based on the repositioning of quality Spanish wines and recovering old indigenous vineyards which, either through low production or lack of generational succession, had been lost.

The most prized asset of this bodegas is the heritage of the vines, between 30 and 90 years old, of indigenous varieties cultivated in a sustainable way with minimal intervention.

They create wines under different denominations of origins: La Mancha, Alicante, Jumilla and Rueda. The stamp which differentiates it is its modern approach to its work with the indigenous varieties such as Monastrell, Tempranillo, Merseguera, Macabeo, Moscatel etc.



The 2016 Cuvee Old Vines has good intensity on the nose, showing plenty of black fruit including blackcurrant, blackberry and bilberry. The ripe fruit of prune, oaky vanilla note, licorice and tobacco further supplements the aromas. On the palate the tannin is ripe and dusty on texture, with powerful alcohol and great concentration with mainly black fruit, toast and some leather notes, finishing with a very long finish.

Wineshark Wine Tasting - Chateau Figeac

In the 2nd century AD, a family by the name of Figeacus owned a Gallo-Roman villa on the site of the present chateau and a large estate, to which they gave their name. According to historians, this is the same family that was at the origin of the town of Figeac in the Lot department of France.

The vestiges of an ancient pigeon loft remind us that in the Middle Ages this large farming estate was a noble house. The chateau has conserved a number of doors and low, narrow windows which can be dated to around the year 1000.

In the 15th century, Figeac was one of five noble houses in Saint-Emilion and passed from the Lescours family, who at that time also owned Ausone, into the hands of the Cazes (or Decazes) family, who transmitted it through marriage to the Carles in the 17th century.

Several characters in this long line left their mark on the history of Figeac as well as that of the region. Raymond de Cazes, a lord of Figeac, a Jurat of Libourne, and an influential character, rebuilt the chateau in 1586 in a classical Renaissance architectural style, after it had been burnt down during the Wars of Religion. The second year ageing cellar dates from that time, as do a number of visible architectural features, such as the pillars of the great courtyard, the tower of the chateau's left-wing and elements on window mullions.

Through the marriage of Marie de Cazes in 1654, the noble land of Figeac passed into the hands of the Carles. The Carles were very influential and dynamic in the region and owned numerous properties. They took an active part in the beginnings of a modern type of viticulture in the Libourne area. Their keen commercial sense enabled them to develop a clientele in Paris and in the north of Europe.

The improvements effected by this brilliant family are what today's visitors admire most: the elegant 18th century facade, the pillars of the Court of Honour linked by a wooden grille and surmounted by a flame; and a pediment whose sail billows evoke the shipment of Figeac's wines overseas.

When an economic crisis struck as a result of the Continental Blockade, the Countess de Carles-Trajet sold some of Figeac's land. Parts of this land included Cheval Blanc, which was ceded in 1832. Figeac and its 130 hectares were then sold in 1838. Figeac went through a period of 50 years having 7 different owners.

It was in 1892 that the Manoncourt family's ancestors acquired the core of the property (the three famous gravel mounds which make up its outstanding terroir), and established definitively Figeac's vocation as a wine estate.

Henri de Chevremont, Thierry Manoncourt's great grandfather, acquired Figeac and entrusted the management of the estate to the eminent agricultural engineer Albert Macquin, who structured the vineyard, equipped the cellars with oak vats (sourced from the estate's woods), and experimented the plantations of new species of vegetation around the chateau. It was he who brought a scientific approach to the vineyard and wine-making and a new, unique aspect to Figeac's landscape.

In 1907, the famous Chateau Figeac label was created, carrying the coat of arms of Henri de Chevremont. It evolved thereafter but kept its unique, easy to recognize design.

After the Manoncourt family acquired the property in 1892, Figeac was mainly managed by agricultural engineers. However, in 1943, the year in which Thierry Manoncourt made his first vintage, a period of resurgence began for Figeac. Thierry Manoncourt realised in that year the huge potential of Figeac's terroir and urged his mother, a Parisian, to hold on to the estate. Then, in 1947, once he had graduated as an agricultural engineer, he came and settled at Figeac. He continually wandered through the vines seeking to understand every detail of Figeac's unique terroir. Keeping only those traditions he considered good ones, he improved vine-growing techniques. His scientific approach won him the reputation of a respected innovator.

Thierry Manoncourt made a number of decisive choices. It was thanks to him that Figeac gained its unique grape composition of 30% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Franc and 35% Cabernet Sauvignon.

Working alongside him, his wife, Marie-France Manoncourt, joined the Figeac cause. Together they developed and improved the property, while carefully preserving the land's biodiversity.

They warmly welcomed visitors from every corner of the world and traveled widely. By the 1960s, Figeac was already known in the USA, and by the 1970s it had gained renown in Asia (Japan, Hong Kong and Singapore).

In 1971, after building a new vat room and barrel cellar, Thierry Manoncourt was dubbed by the press the "Pharaoh of Saint-Emilion".

He was the First Jurat of Saint-Emilion in the years from 1964 to 1988. He also devoted time and energy to promoting Bordeaux wines in general around the world.

By the 1980s, the wines of Chateau-Figeac were recognized around the world. Laure and Eric d'Aramon (Thierry and Marie-France Manoncourt's daughter and son-in-law) settled at Figeac to lend their support. Gradually, Count Eric d'Aramon took over the operational management of the estate. Part of his mission was to introduce a more modern and more structured type of management whilst ensuring the long-term continuity of the business. He was General Manager until 2012. This was the period of long promotional trips (as member of the Union des Grands Crus) and the opening up of new markets.

It was also during this period, in 2002, that Frederic Faye arrived at Figeac. His recruitment illustrated the family's determination to continue and develop the scientific, qualitative approach to vine growing that had first driven Figeac's success. A graduate in agricultural engineering, Frederic Faye, alongside Thierry Manoncourt, got to know every nook and cranny of the vineyard and immediately entered into the spirit of the Figeac cause. He was soon at the head of a highly motivated crew, bringing fresh energy and introducing new skills, while launching wide-ranging projects.

Well before passing away in August 2010, Thierry Manoncourt had been careful to transmit the skills and values he had introduced and developed at the property.

Today, Madame Manoncourt and her daughters are ably supported by highly skilled vine-growing teams and are as eager to guarantee the long-term continuity of Figeac. They are careful to preserve its spirit and the values of knowledge-sharing, innovation, excellence and a warmth of welcome that have always been central to the way in which this unique property has been run every day.

The soils which produce the wines of Figeac are mostly composed of snady-gravel alluvium originating from France's Massif Central mountains and deposited by rivers at the beginning of the Quaternary era. In the Bordeaux area these soils are essentially found in a few vineyards in St-Emilion, Pomerol, and on the left bank of the river at classified growths in the appellations of Pessac-Leognan and the Medoc, especially Margaux.

The gravelly topsoil, distributed in the form of 'outcrops', favours the accumulation and reflection of heat, creating a very favorable microclimate for the ripening of the grapes and for obtaining complexity and finesse in the wines. The slopes of the outcrops provide good extra natural drainage of rainwater.

The subsoil contributes diversity to the terroir with very deep gravel layers and others in which clay is found at depth, which favors good vine growth and the full ripening of the grapes.

These soils have outstanding vine-growing potential. They warm up quickly in spring, favoring early vine shooting and of course the early ripening of the grapes. This explains and justifies Figeac's original grape composition with its balance of the three main grape varieties - Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon - which is unique in the Bordeaux area. The late-ripening Cabernets mature perfectly in Figeac's soils.

Gravel soils are naturally not very fertile and bring about only moderate vine vigor and consequently low yields, which favor natural concentration and high quality grapes.

The blocking of grape ripening caused by water deficit stress, due to excessively hot and dry summer weather, hardly ever occurs at Figeac. The strong sandy-gravel soil texture and the relatively deep clay soils bring about moderate and regular water supply to the vines. Ideal conditions are therefore found at Figeac for perfect grape ripening.

Figeac is a large estate covering some 54 hectares, home to remarkable biodiversity features that form a wonderful natural setting.

The Manoncourt family lives at the property, which is surrounded by great open spaces that give a majestic feel to the place. Five hectares of grounds, meadows, a pond, an arboretum, a bamboo garden, a warren planted with English, Holm, and Cork oak trees, as well as hundreds of China rose bushes that border the vine rows, together with all the appreciative fauna, make this estate unique.

Madame Manoncourt takes particular care in watching over the beauty of the whole of the estate.

The savoir-faire exercised in Figeac's wine-growing has been developed from a mix of tradition and innovation, underpinned by science-based methods.

Since the 1950s, Figeac's wine-growing has been environmentally-friendly and based on careful observation of the vines and on surveys carried out using the latest techniques. These methods are practised by all of the wine-growing team who, as wine artisans, watch over 240,000 vines with the greatest care to ensure the production of the best possible grapes, which is a pre-requisite for the making of a great wine.

These wine artisans apply the same care and precision in the cellars to preserve Figeac's distinctive style. In order to bring out the best in every vintage, an individualized approach is adopted, ensuring that the complexity of the terroir is clearly expressed in the wine.

The teams working in the vines and cellars function in perfect synergy, sharing a common passion and one aim: to achieve an outstanding wine in every vintage.

Thanks to tradition and more particularly to the ongoing scientific approach enthusiastically introduced by Thierry Manoncourt, the Figeac vineyard and its viticultural methods have been successfully adapted to the different soils that make up its terroir. Judicious choices were made concerning the three grape varieties, the rootstocks, the exposure of the vine rows and so on. These choices have always been made compatible with the Manoncourt family's demands to accord the greatest care to the natural environment.

In the vineyard, recent innovations have essentially concerned research into optimal grape ripeness and improvements in the vine canopy. Massal selection has been introduced, the vineyard has been restructured, and greater means have been put at the disposal of the vineyard team.

In order to make a great wine, it is clear that grapes need to be picked at optimal ripeness. However, optimal ripeness is not a universally-held notion, and at Figeac the combination of determining factors is complex due to the nature of the soils, the three grape varieties and the co-existence of young vines with others which are almost a century old. A very strict system has been necessary to be able to fix harvesting dates with great precision and stagger picking. The decision-making process is supported by laboratory analyses and thorough surveys which have enabled intra-plot separations of zones, as well as berry tastings in the vines to assess the aromatic profile of the grapes.

The cellarmaster oversees the wine-making process with precision and passion, exercising perfect control over the Figeac style. Together with his team he adopts an individualised approach which take into account each grape variety and vineyard plot and succeeds in bringing out the complexity of the terroir and the best of each vintage.

A consultant oenologist has for many years made a contribution to this quest for excellence. In 2012, the Manoncourt family appointed Michel Rolland. He has added his special expertise in order to bring out even better the qualities of this outstanding and complex terroir.

The wine-making process combines traditional methods with the techniques brought by modern equipment, ensuring that the quality of the grapes, the musts, the wines and their traceability are carefully respected.

Following the terroir analyses carried out using infrared aerial imagery and the geo-resistivity survey, the harvesting of the grapes at Figeac is staggered according to individual, specific intra-plot zones. The vat cellar was adapted to be able to vinify separate batches coming from these intra-plot zones, thanks to small-sized fermentation vats. The oak vat cellar, which was renovated in the 2000s, contains ten open-topped conical oak vats, especially adapted for the gentle extraction of phenolic compounds using the famous 'immersed cap' method. The stainless steel vat cellar is made up of 12 vats of 160 to 15-hectolitre capacity.

The harvesting of perfectly ripe grapes has enabled the wine of Chateau Figeac to be aged 100% in new oak barrels since the end of the 1960s. These barrels are sourced from 8 different coopers and are specially designed for Figeac according to a specific brief. They are toasted with a medium char and are solely made up of French oak.

About 100,000 bottles of the Chateau Figeac Grand Vin are produced annually, along with about 40,000 bottles of the second wine 'Petit Figeac'.



The 2017 Chateau Figeac has a good nose showing nice black fruit of blackcurrant, blackberry and plum, with vanilla and toasty notes coming from the oak. There are chocolate, licorice, earth and savory characters, with the well-balanced palate having good concentration of flavors plus a reasonable length on the finish.