This is a fine-dining restaurant located at 18 On Lan Street in Central, serving contemporary European dishes crafted by Chef Chris Chan and his team. Stepping out from the elevator, the staff greeted us warmly and showed us to our table, on the window side. There were also two private rooms at the back serving guests in bigger groups.
The restaurant had won some design awards, with the theme of its brownish tone and wavey décor in the ceiling originating from Antelope Canyon in Arizona Desert. There was a row of counter seats facing the open kitchen on one side, allowing customers to have a close look and interactions with the culinary team.
We went for the Dinner Tasting Menu ($1,288 each), and I also had the Wine Pairing ($600). The welcome drink was presented in a chic format, with the Pina Colada encased in a spherical ball with some lime zest on top. Biting it open, the coconut and pineapple flavours burst out, with the lime providing a refreshing note.
The Homemade Bread consisted of two varieties, featuring Multi-Grain and Fig. The Laudemio olive oil served was from Gonnelli, a Tuscany producer with more than 500 years history, having nice fresh olive notes, herbal and a bit spicy, and together with Bonini Affinato balsamic, aged for 12 years, complex and balanced on sweet and sourness.
The Amuse Bouche included two bite-sized snacks. First one was Deep-Fried Prawn with crisp and light Vietnam Rice Paper, with a bit of green curry mayonnaise on top to supplement. Second one was Italian Coppa Ham, with pearl white marbling. Compared with the traditional Parma ham, this one was more tender and less salty.
The first wine paired was Champagne Nomine-Renard Brut NV. This traditional style champagne had a fresh green apple, toasty with some brioche notes. With good acidity, the wine was balanced and showed the typical champagne characters. A versatile match with food, and good with caviar and crab meat in the first course.
The first course Caviar featured the prized Oscietre caviar, with steamed egg custard underneath which was mixed with dashi for umami flavours, plus fresh local crab meat for texture and a delicate sweetness. Surrounding were some avocado puree and crème fraiche to give a bit of acidity and additional delights.
The second wine paired was Bruno Giacosa Roero Arneis 2024. This Piedmont white had a nice citrus nose, with plenty of pears and white flowers, while on the palate it also got some minerality on top of lemon peel. An easy-drinking white that matched well with seafood and was a nice complement with the tuna and sea urchin next.
The second course Toro featured Blue fin toro tartare and Hokkaido uni, with the two raw seafood both very fresh. Surrounding the chopped tuna were some tomato broth jellies, giving the dish the required acidity to freshen and stimulate the palate, finishing with a spray of bergamot orange essence for a touch of citrus fragrance.
The third course was Lobster Bisque, with the rich soup intensely flavourful, serving also at the perfect temperature. In the soup there was some fish maw, showcasing an integration of Chinese ingredients on a Western dish, soft and with nice texture, finishing with a bit of crème fraiche to smoothen the palate.
The wine to pair with the fourth course was Badger & Mountain Grenache Rock 2022. This was a South African Grenache, with light body and fruity red cherries and strawberry characters. The earthy undertone was a good match with the morel in the next course, as well as the cranberry juice used in the sauce.
The fourth course Morel used French morel with also minced cuttlefish paste, wrapped in a spring roll before deep-frying, to present a wonderfully layered texture of delicacy. With also some crispy deep-fried leeks on top, the bottom was some stir-fried sea cucumber and mushrooms, served in a veal jus with cranberry juice as sauce.
Next wine was Descendientes de Jose Palacios Petalos 2022. This Bierzo wine was made predominantly from Mencia, light-bodied and having plenty of red fruit characters, with good floral aromatics. The good acidity and softer tannin made it a refreshing red that could go well the red prawns in the next course.
For the fifth and main course there were a few options, and we decided to get two to share. First came Linguine Gamberoni ($340 supplement), using Sicilian red prawns and taking the prawn miso to prepare an intensely flavourful and sauce to mix with the pasta, cooked in the classic Aglio e Olio style with garlic and olive oil. Very delicious.
Then the wine was Behrens & Hitchcock Winery Alder Springs Vineyard 4 Blocks Syrah 2004. A boutique winery in California, this was a rich red wine, with black fruit, lots of pepper and smoke, and savoury taste. The firm tannin and herbal, earthy notes were good complement with the pigeon, with the savoury flavours going well with the sauce.
The other main course we had was Pigeon Wellington ($340 supplement). Wrapped in a nice puff pastry was juicy and tender Bresse pigeon breast that had been marinated in rosemary, with Lau Fau Shan golden oyster to replace foie gras, with button mushroom and truffle wrapping. On the side was the pigeon leg to enjoy with pigeon jus as sauce.
The sixth and final course was Tiramisu. Prepared the traditional Italian style in a large baking tray, the staff scooped a section for each of us. The mascarpone and ladyfinger soaked with coffee were both spot-on in taste, with cocoa powder and popping candy on top. Appropriate in sweetness, it was a nice wrap-up for a wonderful meal.
The Petits Fours brought back our childhood memories, serving maltose sandwiched on two wafer biscuits, using a lollipop stick to hold, in a style familiar with those who grown up in the 60s. Finishing with a cup of espresso, it was a contented and satisfying evening, with both of us enjoying all the food, particularly the Pigeon Wellington.
Service was very good, with the staff courteous and helpful in explaining all the dishes and wines with details. The bill on the night was $4,661 and considering the overall dining experience and food quality, I would rate this restaurant an Excellent 80 points, worth returning.
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