Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Sushi Kami 鮨慎

This sushi restaurant is located in 18 On Lan Street, on the 12/F of the building which also houses a number of other fantastic restaurants. Arriving a bit early we have to wait at the lobby for a bit before admitting to the restaurant.

With a long sushi counter, we are seated at the far end, and serve by Chef Ho, a young but meticulous chef. Other customers arrive also fairly on time and very soon all the seats are occupied, and the dinner service begins straight away.

There is only one dinner omakase menu ($2,280) and I also order a bottle of sake, Daishichi Minowamon Junmai Daiginjo 大七 箕輪門 純米大吟醸 ($1,280), using the Yamada Nishiki rice, with a clean and crisp taste that goes well with the food on the night.

The first course is a Cold Soup. The sweetness from White Corn, integrates well with the delicate fragrance and sake note from Koji, the steamed rice containing the yeast used to ferment rice to sake, with a bit of Junsai, or Watershield, to give a slight crunchy texture.

The second course is Tako. The Octopus is very tender, biting through without any effort, with the tentacle fully infused with the great flavours from the broth in cooking. I notice the chef dusted something on top which further increase the taste but cannot figure out what that is.

The third course features Ainame and Ishigakidai, paired with Irizake Jelly and Kaiware Daikon. The Fat Greenling has a chewier texture and having a richer fish oil, while the Spotted Knifejaw has a sweeter taste. Both are very good seasonal white fish.

The fourth course is Shima-Aji sushi. The Striped Jack Mackerel has a firm, nice fatty flesh, with a mild flavour that is pleasing. The temperature and acidity of the shari is also ideal for me. A nice piece.

The fifth course is Kuruma-Ebi sushi. The Japanese Tiger Prawn is cooked but unlike some other sushi restaurants serving them hot, this one has been cooled down to room temperature. The sweetness and umami are amazing.

The sixth course is Ankimo. This Monkfish Liver is one of my favourites in the evening, with a silky soft texture, very rich and intense flavours. The addition of a bit of spring onion further enhanced the fragrance to another level.

The seventh course features Kamasu, Shima-Ebi, Chu-Toro. The chef has torched the skin of the Barracuda, with a nice fragrance from the fish oil and melting soft texture of the flesh memorable. The Grey Prawn has a good sweetness, while the Medium Fatty Tuna has been marinated briefly in soy sauce to increase the umami note, with the chef serving a bit of mustard for condiment and some Tofu-Skin underneath which surprisingly match with the tuna.

The eighth course is Oomizogai sushi. The Dall’s Razor Clam is not commonly seen in HK, meaty and having nice sweetness in taste, with also slightly crunchy in texture. Having google this later, it looks like a fat and shorter razor clam and will be a nice one to try out if available.

The ninth course is Uni sushi, with the Sea Urchin having marinated with Kombu beforehand to infuse it with delicate umami note and highlight its original taste better, also making it easier to knead into a sushi.

The tenth course is Awabi with Fukahire. The Abalone has then cooked beautifully and then sliced, good in taste, and served on top of some Shark’s Fin in a special delicious sauce made from the abalone liver, offering a good crunchy mouthfeel. On the side are some Okra which also goes well with the dish overall.

The eleventh course is an assortment of shellfish, including Hokkigai, Akagai, Mirugai, as well as the skirt of the earlier Oozimogai. The chef has paired with some sea salt and Miso as condiment. Progressing from the softer to the crunchiest texture, the Surf Clam has less fragrance than the Ark Shell, while the Geoduck has the firmest and strongest sea flavours. The Dall’s Razor Clam skirt is milder in taste comparatively but still a nice feature, with the marinated cherry tomato not just a decoration but also great in taste.

The twelfth course is Shin-Ika sushi, the Baby Squid is in season now, having a very sweet taste and very tender, even without cutting on the surface meticulously like what the chef would do for preparing other type of squid. Looks nothing special but in fact is at pinnacle of quality of ingredients. Another of my favourite in the evening.

The thirteenth course is Akami Zuke sushi. The chef has marinated the Lean Tuna in soy sauce for a while, infusing the flesh to highlight the amazing umami notes while not in any way over salty. The soft texture of the tuna also feels like sliding down the throat.

The fourteenth course is O-Toro sushi. Cutting the Fatty Tuna into thin strips, the chef then assembled three pieces together to make the sushi, avoiding the tougher fibres in the flesh, so soft that it is like melting in the mouth. The rich fish oil is flavourful but does not feel overly cloying.

The fifteenth course features Akamutsu, Sawara and Kegani. The chef brings the fish into the kitchen to grill, before serving together with some Menegi and pickles. The fragrant fish oil of Rosy Seabass is pronounced after burning them briefly, while the Japanese Spanish Mackerel is great in taste, with the bit of chives providing wonders to the flavours. The Horsehair Hairy Crab is also very good, though the combination with the other two may not exactly match.

The sixteenth course is Amadai, with the staff grilling it in the kitchen before serving together with some Shimeji Mushroom. Instead of preparing with scales deep-fried, here the scales were removed. The meaty flesh was soft and tasty, after marinated with Shio Koji. Another nice one.

The seventeenth course is Shiro-Uni Hand-roll. The chef has scooped a generous portion of the White Sea Urchin, to the Shari sandwiched by a crispy Nori. The sea urchin is very sweet and creamy, without any hint of weird note, and is another piece I would encore.

The chef then asks whether we are full, and I unashamedly calling for Kohada. But he mentions that there is still the last Shinko available, and happily I get this year’s last serving of Young Gizzard Shad, with the chef using four tails to make the sushi. With a satisfied expression enjoying it, I can see the other customers eyeing me in envy.

The eighteenth course is Tuna Hand-roll. With the chef taking some minced tuna and add to a Shiso leaf, before making the roll together with Shari. A filling and luxurious final piece, even for big eater like me I feel contended and happy.

We are then served the Tamagoyaki, with the restaurant using the baking method after pan-frying to prepare the Egg Omelette. After mixing with the shrimp meat, the egg has a nice umami taste, but the fragrance of the egg is still at the forefront. I have also asked for more pieces and the chef has kindly provided.

The Miso Soup is good, appropriate in taste and not too salty. Wrapping up is the Dessert with a piece of melon and pear, a rewarding and complete finale to a wonderful meal. I counted and there are 26 different seafood we have tried on the night. A wide variety of nice ingredients.

The bill on the night is $6,424 and service is quite good, while the chef can perhaps explain more on the ingredients like where it came from, he is very friendly and has good conversations with us. All the food is good, and we have a great time as well. If you want to experience at a single time more seasonal ingredients, SUSHI KAMI is a good choice.