2021年5月23日 星期日

Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Castellana


This Italian restaurant is located on 10/F of Cubus in Causeway Bay, specializing in Piedmont cuisine. As a wine fanatic the region is not new for me, having drunk a fair share of Barolo, Barbaresco or Moscato d’Asti, but this is the first time I sample some authentic Piedmont dishes. 


Stepping out the elevator the restaurant gave us a nice impression, with good lighting of a soft tone, neat and simple decor yet creating a warm and cozy ambience. Ceiling high wine racks serve as both cellar and partitions, and at the back is a semi-open kitchen seeing glimpses of action inside.


We decided to go for the tasting menu ‘Journey Around the World’ ($1,680 each) with me also opting for wine pairing ($1,100 additional). The Amuse Bouche is very nicely put together, with some langoustine mixed with finely chopped red bell pepper, onion and together with a mousse made with tuna, is fantastic in taste, highlighting each components of the original flavours with good integration. 



The first course is Scampo con il caviale, with the Norwegian langoustine cooked perfectly to remain tender and soft on texture, putting on top of an abundance of Cristal caviar and chopped cucumber. The sauce is made with egg yolk and giving a beautiful yellow colour, making the whole dish a visual feast of colours. The popping texture of the caviar with the umami notes complements the fresh and sweet taste of the langoustine. The wine paired is Champagne Jeeper Brut Grand Assemblage NV. 



The second course is Asparagi, with the soup made from asparagus coming from Bassano del Grappa. The chef used the white asparagus to make the soup, then placed a foam made using the green asparagus on top. Adding with Grana Padano cheese, which gives a nutty taste, and flakes of ‘Vigezzo’ cured ham, providing smoky and savoury notes to the soup. The wine paired is Ceretto Arneis ‘Blange’ 2019 from Langhe. 



The third course is Tagliatelle & ricci, a homemade tagliatelle pasta with Japanese sea urchin and ‘Tarallo’ bread crumbs. The texture of the pasta is very good, with a nice bite. The sauce is made with sea urchin, with the bread crumbs giving a crunchy as well as a bit of salty to season the pasta. The chef also served separately some sea urchin on shell, meeting the needs of big fans of the seafood to have additional pieces. The wine paired is Vie di Romans Dessimis Pinot Grigio 2017.



The fourth course is Il ‘Plin’, another homemade agnolotti pasta from Piedmont, looking like a mini pillow, with fowl and pork as fillings. This pasta is even better than the last one in my opinion, with a slightly firmer texture, and the fillings are great in taste, and the chef added a veal reduction sauce to further enrich the flavours, together with some Grana Padano chips. A must-try. The wine paired is Sordo ‘Rapuje’ Rosso 2010 from Langhe.



The fifth course is “Pesce Pietra’, with Japanese wild rockfish prepared using the ‘Ikejime’ method, a humane way to kill the fish immediately and also prevent the muscle movement in the reflex actions to build up lactic acid in the flesh. The pan-seared fish fillet is lightly seasoned to highlight its original taste, then put in an umami broth together with Albenga artichokes from Liguria and seasonal beans. A great dish to experience the fresh and true flavours. The wine paired is Damilano Chardonnay 2017 from Langhe. 



The sixth course is La Guancia, with the Iberico pork cheek slow cooked to perfection, tender and juicy. Underneath is mashed salsify, or oyster plant. The taste is like that of artichoke, with the creamy texture from the preparation technique. On the side are some ginger mayo with beetroot powder shavings to add a nice red colour. Another of my favourites in the evening. The wine paired is Pelissero Barbaresco Nubiola 2015.



The seventh and last course is Marzapane & caviale, with homemade hazelnut marzipan gelato, red cauliflower chips, passion fruit gel, and interestingly, some ‘Cristal’ caviar! The first experience I had a dessert with caviar as ingredients, but surprisingly the flavours are highly complementary with the gelato, with the sweet almond and dairy note from the marzipan matching with the umami of the caviar. The crispy cauliflower chip not only adding the colour to beautify the dish but also gave extra texture. The wine paired is Ca’ Rugate La Perlara 2015, a Recioto di Soave.

The service is good throughout, and I also recognized their effort in resolving my mistake when making the reservation. Intending to come for dinner, I somehow booked incorrectly online for lunch instead. The restaurant ended up calling me when I did not turn up after 45 minutes, and then helped to change my reservation, with the restaurant fully booked on the night. I really appreciate their effort here. The overall dining experience is good and joyful with the staff taking the time to explain each dish to us. While it might be a bit expensive with the bill at $5,166 I would still recommend coming to sample some of their signature dishes, and also their range of wines from Piedmont. 

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