2019年7月4日 星期四

Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Gaddi's

This French restaurant is located in The Peninsula, one of the first in the Far East to serve exquisite European cuisine, and frankly also one of my favorites in town in terms of fine dining. Returning after more than one year, I could not remember it only opens after 7 pm, so had to wait for a while in the hotel lobby. The dining room truly demonstrated classic excellence, with lush carpet, chandelier with candles, tables set apart offering the appropriate privacy on conversations, and formally dressed serving staff providing impeccable services and attention to guests. All of these are set with the background of a live band, singing out classic songs which created an incredible dining experience.

I ordered a glass of Chablis Premier Cru from Olivier Leflaive ($240) as aperitif while my wife went for a Mixed Berries Glacier mocktail ($128). The maitre'd then came to explain to us the menu, and we decided again to go for the Degustation Menu ($2388) , and for me adding the wine pairing also ($3188). The Amuse Bouche was Red Shrimps with Cucumber, with some mint, finely shredded chili and edible flower to complement. The shrimp was sweet in taste and paired with the refreshing cucumber was a wonderful start of the meal.

The first course was Hokkaido Scallop Carpaccio, with Kristal Caviar, Arbois Wine and Brioche, pairing with 2017 Domaines Ott By.Ott Rose from Cotes de Provence. The very fresh scallop was sweet in taste, with a fantastic complement from the creamy sauce prepared from the French yellow wine. The luxurious caviar further added both visual and flavor complexity to the dish, and overall it was truly wonderful. Although the wine was light in body, it was also surprisingly a great match with the dish as well. 

The second course was Ricotta Gnudi, with Hercule Vieux Cheese, Black Truffle and Hazelnut, pairing with Gonzalex Byass Tio Pepe Palomino Fino Muy Seco Sherry. Gnudi was gnocchi-like dumpling was made from ricotta cheese instead of potato, with a soft texture and nice flavors. The sauce was prepared with the Hercule Vieux cheese, having a signature warm milk and almond note, so matching well with the pieces of hazelnut. The truffle provided additional complexity to the dish. The sherry pairing was innovative and did a good job too.

The third course was Langoustine Ravioli, with Spinach, Wasabi, and Lemongrass, paired with 2013 Xavier Weisskopf Le Rocher des Violettes La Negrette from Loire. The pasta texture was great with a chewy bite, and the langoustine was intense in flavors as well. The spinach was tender, and the foamy sauce had the refreshing note from the wasabi and lemongrass. Another great dish offering complex sensory enjoyment with the wine giving a crisp and herbaceous note matching well particularly with the spinach.

The fourth course was Pan-seared Duck Foie Gras, with Burlat Cherries, Pecans and Sumac, pairing with 2016 Schloss Johannisberg Rotlack Riesling Kabinett from Rheingau. The foie gras was lightly seasoned, aiming to highlight the original flavors, and the creamy texture was a good contrast to the crunchy pecans on top. The cherries provided a bit of sour note to balance the fattiness to make the dish well-balanced. I also found the slight sweetness of the Riesling a better match than the traditional pairing of Sauternes. Another nice dish.

The fifth course was European Turbot with Piquillo Pepper, Caponata and Iberico Chorizo, paired with 2016 Keller Estate La Cruz Vineyard Chardonnay. The fish was delicate in taste, but the chef had torched it nicely to give a slight smoky note to add to the flavors. The true wonder in my opinion was the stuffed pepper, with the spicy-sweet taste strongly appealing. The eggplant and sausage fillings further enhanced the amazing palate. The chardonnay got a nice oaky note and matched well with the dish overall.

The sixth course was Mieral Pigeon with Mara des Bois Strawberries and Miso Condiment, Gnocchi and Balsamic Vinegar, paired with 2013 Louis Jadot Beaune 1er Cru Boucherottes. The pigeon was cooked to medium level, with the inside juicy and pink, tender and great in taste. The sauce was made from the jus of the pigeon with the balsamic vinegar, very flavorful and the interesting match of the strawberries and gnocchi giving a surprise twist but was great to complement with the wine on its red fruit and earthy note.

The seventh course was Selection of French Cheeses. I had chosen Camembert, Mimolette and Roquefort, offering a good contrast in flavor and texture. The Camembert was soft, creamy and got a nice mushroom taste. It was my first sampling of the orange-colored Mimolette, harder on texture, with a nutty and sweet note. But overall the blue cheese was still my favorite with the unique salty, sharp and tangy taste. Different condiments were provided too to enjoy with the cheeses.

The eighth course was The Vanilla French Meringue, with Praline Ice-cream and Hazelnuts, paired with 2014 Oremus Tokaji Late Harvest. The crunchy meringue was beautifully made to resemble a ice-cream cone, with the praline ice-cream sitting on top, giving a highly appealing presentation. Not overly sweet too, the dessert was a wonderful conclusion to the meal. I also liked the thoughtfulness of the sommelier to pair with the late harvest furmint which matched perfectly on the sugar level with the dessert.

We were then served coffee with Petits Fours. The cake got a nice cheese flavor, and the mango sweet and chocolate were each good. Overall every single dish in the menu was wonderful in taste, beautifully rendered, and I could also see the innovation the chef had put into all these dishes to make it different than the more traditional recipe. The wine pairing was nice too, with all the wines
complementing well with the individual dishes. Both of us were highly satisfied with this dinner and delivered the high expectation we had.

With two bottles of water, the bill on the night was $6,732. Certainly it was expensive but if you want to enjoy a great dining experience, with good food and wine, great service and ambiance, Gaddi's remained one of my recommendations in town. 

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