The Landmark is a fine dining hub in Central, with restaurants like L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon and China Tang that had been on the pinnacle of local dining for many years. Recently there was a new restaurant JOYN, offering contemporary Chinese cuisine and today we came to see whether they were up to the same level as these other big names.
The décor of the restaurant was elegant, with soft lighting and elements of Chinese design to offer a luxury premium experience and smartly using partitions to divide tables to give a good space in-between for privacy but strangely contradicted by the glass wall looking out to the mall. We were seated at a circular booth of comfort.
Going for Supreme Dinner Menu ($998 each), the starter was a trio of small bites, including Crunchy White Jade Melon爽口玉女瓜, Passion Fruit Compote 糖漬百香果, Black Barbecued Pork with Kumquat and Aged Tangerine Peel 金柑陳皮黑叉燒. The jade melon had been soaked in pepper water to get a spicy kick while the passion fruit had an appetizing sweet and sour balance. The char siu was brushed with a marinade made from kumquat and tangerine peel so there was a nice citrus fragrance. Nice starters of different flavours and textures.
The second dish was Double-Wine Marinated Half Virgin Mud Crab 雙酒微醺熟醉奄仔蟹. With each person having half a crab, the seasonal virgin mud crab was bursting with paste, delicious and indulgently good, absorbing the flavours from the marinade Chinese yellow wine to also have an enriched savoury and oxidative sherry notes. The half crab was also thoughtful in portion to ensure it was not too much for the diners.
The third course was Baked Half Baby Rose Lobster with Laksa Cream Sauce 喇沙忌廉汁焗玫瑰乳龍蝦. This lobster species was known for its sweetness and tenderness, with the chef putting a laksa cream sauce on top after baking. The herbs and hints of spiciness stimulated the appetite and brought an interesting fusion of the signature Singaporean flavours to the table.
The fourth dish was Braised Dried Abalone with Prawn Mousse Stuffed Sea Cucumber 煎釀遼參扣溏心乾鮑. Unlike the traditional dish, here the chef made a twist, stuffing the prawn mousse to the sea cucumber to give additional umami and texture, while the abalone had a gooey interior and deep in umami flavours. The abalone oyster sauce was flavourful and also not too salty.
The fifth course was Steamed Leopard Coral Garoupa Slice with Ginger and Preserved Vegetable 薑蓉雪裡紅蒸東星斑塊. The large, prized leopard garoupa fillet was meaty, steamed nicely to retain a nice tenderness, with the ginger and preserved vegetables giving a unique combination of aromas more subtle than the traditional way of using spring onion.
The sixth course was Rice Vermicelli in Fresh Crab Soup with Crab Meat and Fish Tofu 鮮蟹湯拆蟹肉魚腐米粉. It was a surprisingly good dish, with the delicious soup steaming hot in temperature, paired with some fresh crab meat and the fish tofu, and the rice vermicelli picking up the flavours from the soup for good effect. A good way to complete the meal, rich in umami.
The dessert and final course was Mango Pomelo Sago with Coconut Ice Cream 楊枝甘露 椰子雪糕. Apart from the traditional pomelo sago with a rich mango cream, the chef added a scoop of coconut ice cream, lowering the temperature of the dessert and at the same time giving an extra layer of coconut flavours, matching well with the mango and pomelo without feeling out of place.
Service was good, though the staff did not explain the dishes and had missed an opportunity to provide a more engaging and better dining experience. Together with a bottle of Anicca Sparkling Tea, the bill on the night was $2,807. Considering the overall impression on the dinner, its food quality and ambience, I would rate the restaurant a Good 73 points, worth trying.
