2013年9月23日 星期一

Chateau Saint-Pierre


The origin of Chateau Saint-Pierre can be dated back to at least the 17th century, or even earlier, when it was referred as Serancon under the ownership of the De Cheverry family. It got the current name when it was acquired by Baron de Saint-Pierre, during when viticulture was already taking place.

When the baron died in 1796 the estate was divided between his two daughters, Dubouilh and Bontemps-Dubarry, but was still run as a single entity. Dubouilh died in 1832, with her half bequeathed to her daughters. Nevertheless, the estate was able to be classified as a single entity in the 1855 classification and ranked as a fourth growth, the first in that ranking.

The Dobouilh portion was later put on sales and was mostly purchased by the Bontemps-Dubarry family, renaming the estate Saint-Pierre-Bontemps-Dubarry. Several small plots were purchased by others, with about one quarter to Bontemps-Dubarry’s daughter who married to Oscar de Leutken, owner of La Tour-Carnet.

Colonel Bontemps-Dubarry bequeathed the estate to his children, but it was his daughter who bought out her other siblings to keep the estate together. The portion under Oscar de Leutken was later sold to Leon Sevaistre. In 1923 the two portions were reunited by a Dutch firm Van den Bussche, changing the name to Saint-Pierre-Sevaistre.

In 1982 it was sold to Henri Martin, proprietor of Chateau Gloria, who in turn sold a small plot to Jean-Eugene Borie of Ducru-Beaucaillou, becoming Lalande-Borie. Henri then invested to restore the chateau, which is now under the management of her daughter Francoise and son-in-law Jean-Louis Triaud. Under the tenure of Martin and his heirs, the quality of the wines improved substantially.

The vineyards are just outside of the town of Beychevelle, near the boundary of St-Julien, with plenty of old vines totaling about 17 hectares planted with 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, with a tiny amount of Petit Verdot.

The fruit is hand-harvested, then taken to the chai of Chateau Gloria to macerate in enamel vats for two to four weeks, before fermenting in a mix of oak foudres and stainless steel with temperature control. It then goes into oak with 40-50% new each year, with fining and filtration before bottling. The grand vin is Chateau St Pierre with about 5000 cases produced and the rejected is sold in bulk to local merchants. It is the smallest GCC properties in St-Julien.

I have recently tasted the 2004 vintage and below is my tasting note:

Appearance
Bright and clear, this wine is of deep ruby color, with legs.

Nose
Clean, the nose shows medium intensity aromas of black fruit such as blackcurrant and blackberry, dried fruit of prune, oak notes of toast, pungent spice of liquorice, mineral notes of earth, kernel notes of mocha, animal notes of leather. The wine is youthful.

Palate
Dry with medium acidity, medium (+) tannin of ripe of ripe and velvety texture, the wine has medium alcohol and is of medium (+) body with medium intensity flavors of black fruit such as blackberry and black cherry, oak notes of cedar, kernel notes of mocha, vegetal notes of black olive. The wine has a medium finish.

Conclusion
Very good quality St-Julien with a reasonably intense nose showing good complexity, the wine is subtle but elegant, but probably too early to drink now without the development of more aromas and flavors. On the palate it is in balance and provides good structure, with a fair finish accompanying. Ready to drink now, the wine can benefit from further ageing of another 4-6 years.

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