This famous ryokan is located in Nanao, Noto Peninsula, and had been one of the top Japanese onsen ryokan, receiving a lot of awards throughout the years. However, unlike the normal ryokan Kagaya has integrated the traditions into a modern high-rise building, and with a strong emphasis on the okami culture, with a dedicated okami for us throughout the stay.
Arriving in the afternoon at the appointed time, and after parking our car we were shown to the lobby while our room is being prepared, with a lady playing traditional instrument to help us relax, while we are sipping our coffee and looking at through the big windows at the ocean. In a short while our okami came to show us to our room, which is located on 3/F Noto Nagisatei, a Japan/Western style room with outdoor onsen bath.
The entrance to the room is very interesting, with a setup just like you are walking into a traditional house with sliding door. The room itself is really spacious, with a sitting/dining room in the middle having a good look at the harbour and pier, as well as a coffee table with chairs on the side, a bed room of western style, a bathroom with doors leading out to the onsen bath outside, as well as a balcony with a garden looking into the ocean.
We then went to the public bath to experience. The men's bath has two floors and big, with the lower floor being indoor with also a sauna room. The second floor is outdoor, effectively having two baths there as there are separate pools. Considering the size of the ryokan I would say the outdoor baths are a bit too small. But fortunately this is not a busy period so I could still enjoy good privacy.
For dinner it was simply phenomenal. The menu is also prepared with English translation, showing the care Kagaya have for foreign visitors. The aperitif is Kanazawa yuzu-citrus with honey. A very refreshing drink to start off our meal.
Then comes the vinegar dish, which is the snow crab that is right in the season. The female crab has a lot of roe which is so fresh and tasty, and the chef also meticulously taken out the meat so you don't need to spend a lot of effort digging them out from the legs. Pairing with the vinegar sauce it was simply out of this world.
Next are the appetizers, with Dried Sea Cucumber, Pickled Squid, Sea Cucumber Sushi-Ball, Boiled Baigai (shellfish), Baked Yellowtail, Deep Fried Anglerfish, Yuine Lily Bulb and Black Soybean in a Thin layer of Fried Egg, Matsuba Spit and Egg Castella. The color and plating itself was amazing and every different appetizer has its own unique flavors which is a feast for us.
The clear soup is Kaga Yam and Soft Roe Ball, which is silky smooth, and then there is the Assortment of Sashimi, with sea urchin, shrimps, fish and squid. It is my first time to eat sea urchin out of its shell. So fresh and memorable on the flavors!
The boiled dish is Wild Duck Jibu-ni Stew, which is rich and having a gamey taste but not in any negative way. The hot-pot is Nodoguro Black Throat Sea Perch, with Steamed Abalone and Cod Roe. The fish is very good, the texture of the meat firm but not rough. The abalone also is cooked perfectly and easy to bite.
The grilled dish is Premium Beef is also great, and the steamed dish of Snow Crab and Turnip provided a balanced from the more robust flavors of the earlier dishes, to wind down on this wonderful meal.
To finish we have the rice from Noto-Koshihikari and Miso-Soup, followed by the dessert of Chocolate Cake with Dried Persimmon. The meal was really a great experience, and more importantly I ordered a good sake to accompany all the great food and no wonder I finished the whole bottle all by myself in no time!
Throughout the dinner the okami also was very attentive and also asked us whether we liked the food. She was quite young but showing good composure. We liked her very much and given more time I am sure she would become a great okami!
After dinner we went to the 'cultural' street inside the ryokan, decorated just like the onsen street with stores on both sides, selling the local delicacies and souvenirs. There is also a morning market selling local produce and some of the foodstuff we had in dinner and breakfast.
On breakfast we had another great experience, with a really wonderful meal again. As I don't have the menu I could only show the photos without the details.
Upon checking out the okami helped to bring our luggage to the counter, and then to the car, and going out to see us off, before saying goodbye and wishes us to come back again. The services have been one of the most memorable so far for any ryokan I had visited and no wonder Kagaya has received so many awards and is one of the must-visit ryokan for anyone.
The price is expensive (112,320 yen for two) but I think it is worth it. My overall rating is 8.0/10.
We ordered the dinner set for two, with two bowls of noodle and three snacks, and I picked the Char Siu Noodle. The quality of the noodle is good, with the texture of the right chewiness and the Sapporo style pork soup rich, and with the white miso which is not overly salty. Also, it is not too oily as in many other such restaurants in town. Ivy had picked the Crab Stick Noodle which is equally good.
The dumplings are in fact very good in my opinion, with a lot of fillings, juicy and delicious. It also was of a good portion, having a total of six pieces. Dipping in the dumpling sauce brings some vinegar flavors which balances with the oil coming from pan-frying the dumplings. A good appetizer as any you would find in restaurants in Japan.
The services are good with the staff offering advice on the order to get what you want at the best deal from the different dinner sets. Our set costs $245 which is also of good value. My overall rating for this restaurant is 65/100.
