Wineshark Japan Trip - Kagawa 2023 (Day 2)

Waking up to a beautiful morning, I enjoyed an early dip in the hot spring before going for breakfast, at the same restaurant for dinner last night. We are seated at a table with the same setting facing the window looking out to the sea.

The breakfast is of buffet style, with good varieties of food. Unfortunately, there are a few naughty children who mess around with utensils and food. I am surprised that their parents do not put a stop as I assume Japanese people care a lot on optics and will try to avoid embarrassment.

After breakfast we take a walk around the hotel facilities. The Nagisa Terrace is a gorgeously beautiful wooden terrace with comfortable sofas and panoramic view facing Seto Inland Sea, where one can chill out and enjoy the sea breeze. Adjacent is Café Hama-Azami.  

Checking out from Nagisa no Shou Hanagoyomi, we drive to Kagawa via Onaruto Bridge 大鳴門橋. Our first stop is 津田の松原 SA for some refreshments, and soon arrive at Genpei Mure 道の駅 源平の里むれ, which was the old battlefield of Genpei-Yashima Battle 源平屋島合戦.

Apart from a souvenir shop and fresh vegetables market, there is also a restaurant called 海鮮食堂じゃこや. It is self-service in style, with customers picking up desired dishes before payment. The food features fresh fish from Seto Inland Sea, cooked by housewives of the fishermen.

We pick quite a few items to try, with each one very reasonably priced. The signature is probably the Hamachi Pickled Rice Bowl はまちのづけ丼, with the Hamachi fillet marinated in special sauce. The two of us finish with a full stomach at only 2,678 yen. At the souvenir shop we purchase some sweets and a small mascot of the prefecture, before leaving for Yashima 屋島.

Located on the northeastern part of Takamatsu, Yashima is designated as Setonnaikai National Park 瀬戸内海国立公園 in 1934. From afar, it looks like a large roof and got the name as a result, with the highest point at 300 m, where one can see Seto Inland Sea, Takamatsu, and Sanuki Mountains. After parking we first go to Yashima Temple 屋島寺.

Its history dated back to 754AD, when a Chinese monk Ganjin 鑑真 built the temple Fugendo 普賢堂 in northern part of Yashima.

Later, Ganjin’s disciple Eun Risshi 惠雲律師 built a pagoda 堂塔 and also a monastery, becoming the first abbot 初代住持. In 815AD, Kobo Daishi 弘法大師 transferred the temple buildings to the present location on the southern part, also carved the eleven-faced, thousand-armed status of Kannon.

During Tenryaku Period (947 to 957) Meitatsu Risshi 明達律師 dedicated the four Shitenno statues 四大天王像, as well as the current principal Kannon, both important cultural property of Japan. The main hall was built in Kamakura Period 鐮倉時代 (1185 to 1333), and was renovated many times during Edo Period 江戶時代 (1603 to 1868).

We then continue towards Ruins of Yashima Castle 屋嶋城跡 through a nice shaded road. Yashima Castle was a Korean-style mountain castle built by Yamato Dynasty 大和朝廷 in 667AD, to prepare for the invasion by Chinese Tang and Korean Silla 新羅 Kingdoms, taking advantage of the natural terrain.

Since 2007 the city of Takamatsu has been working to preserve and maintain the ruins, and it was re-opened to public March 2016. The location offers a panoramic view of Takamatsu, and walking down the steps one can take a close look at the old castle main entrance.

Retracing the steps back through the shaded road, we proceed to Shishi no Reigan Observation Deck 獅子の霊巌展望台. It has a stunning view of Takamatsu City and Seto Inland Sea, including Ogijima 男木島 and Megijima 女木島.

Below the deck is a rock which looks like a lion, roaring at the sea. But the trees are shielding it so I cannot discern where the rock is. Here one can also play ‘kawarake-nage’, throwing small pieces of dish-shaped earthenware from the terrace to wish for good luck and ward off evil spirits. There is also a teahouse to take a rest and enjoy some refreshments if needed.

Next, we drive to Takamatsu Marugamemachi Shopping Street 高松丸亀町商店街. It is the main shopping and dining area in Takamatsu, 470m long. In 1588 the Marugamemachi area was named by Ikoma Clan 生駒氏 after Marugame City, moving the people here to develop the district and assist in building Takamatsu Castle.

In 1988 It has been 400 years since the area had been developed, but with the completion of central station and other shopping malls people began moving out, so a project was started to develop a comfortable community, a pleasurable and sustainable area, to bring people back, aiming to create a friendly neighborhood to promote higher quality of life and healthy lifestyle.

There are not that many people on the shopping street, not sure whether it is because it is Sunday. However, we still manage to buy some clothes and also play gashapon to get some capsule shark toys.

A bit tired and extremely hot, we decide to go to 田村久つ和堂本店・喫茶室 to take a rest and enjoy some cakes and coffee. Established in 1877, it is a rice cracker shop famous for its handmade baked crackers 瓦せんべい, modeled after the roof tiles of the castle tower.

Ivy orders a slide of chestnut cake while I try the Fresh Fruit Parfait. Both are tasty and the coffee is also decent. It is not too busy, and we get to enjoy a quiet time. While the staff cannot speak English, they are very eager to serve, and I can feel the genuine whole-hearted service attitude. It is also very reasonably priced at 1,705 yen. A nice stop-over.

Before leaving the shopping street we also visit Mitsukoshi Department Store. While not having too much time to go to all the floors, the supermarket is a must-go and there are so many local produce and great products. Knowing we still got many days we decide just to buy the seasonal Okayama White Peach (1,944 yen for two), to bring back to the hotel to enjoy tonight.

After a short drive we arrive at Yunagi no Yu 夕凪の湯 Hotel Hanajyukai 花樹海, located on the east side of Mineyama Ryokuchi Park 峰山緑地公園. The hotel has 45 rooms, and we have booked the Japanese style room with open-air stone bath 岩露天風呂付客室（和室）. The cost per night is 59,000 yen (including dinner and breakfast for two).

Our room is Sakura (Room 108). After a short corridor it leads to the Japanese style room, 12 mat in size.

There is also a side room which can accommodate a few more guests. The makeup room and bathroom are not particularly impressive, however.

The highlight of the room is definitely the outdoor garden. Looking out to the busy Takamatsu while enjoying the quiet and peacefulness of the private, spacious Japanese garden, with outdoor table and chairs plus a sunbath bed, is a great experience.

The large stone bath is another highlight of the room. The Carbonated Spring Water 炭酸水素塩泉 has the nickname ‘beauty spring water’ 美人の湯 because of its smoothing effect on skin. With the shower facilities just on the side, it is also convenient.

Before dinner we take a walk around the hotel. In the lobby there is the very beautiful altar that local people will carry on their shoulders in the parade to celebrate a good harvest each year in October. There are also other artifacts to showcase the cultural elements of Kagawa.

Stepping out on the balcony one can take a good look at Takamatsu, with the flat mountaintop of Yashima clear in the distance. The busy train station nearby, and the Seto Inland Sea further back, show how this city is the hub to go to different parts of Shikoku.

Instead of the buffet style restaurant 飯依比古, we are arranged to have dinner at Yunagi 夕凪, a semi-private room type restaurant exclusive for hotel guests, which has opened in 2021.

I order a bottle of sake under the hotel’s own label: 純米大吟醸 花樹海 (7,150 yen) which is produced by 勇心酒造. Apart from sake, this brewery is also very active in cosmetics and healthcare products.

The dinner starts with Hotel’s Original 花樹海オリジナル as Aperitif 食前酒, the Appetizer 先付 is Sweet Corn Mousse with Edamame 玉蜀黍のムース 枝豆.

The Western Style Appetizers 洋風前菜 include Marinated Sanuki Salmon with Mango 讃岐さーもんマリネ マンゴー , Local Shrimp, Octopus, and Summer Vegetables with Vinegar Dashi Jelly 地海老 蛸 夏野菜 土佐酢ジュレ, Roasted Shiokoji Duck with Duqqa 合鴨塩麹ロースト デュカ, Monaka of Foie Gras and Raisin with Honey フォアゲラレーズン最中 峰山蜂蜜, and Olive Pork Rillettes Canape オリーブ豚のリエット カナッペ.

The Sashimi 造里 are fresh seafood from Genpei 源平, including Greater Amberjack 間八, Pike Conger 鱧, Squid 烏賊. These are very delicious especially dipping with the Shodoshima 小豆島 Soy Sauce.

Next is Grilled Dish 焼肴, featuring the Seasonal Ayu Confit with Vegetable Salsa 鮎のコンフィ 野菜のクレオサ. The sweetfish is big in size, but its soft bones allow us to eat the whole fish.

The main dish 強肴 is Roasted Japanese Beef with Shodoshima Soy Sauce, Horseradish and Asparagus 国産牛のローストビーフ 小豆島醬油ジャポネソース レフォール さめきのめざめ添え. The beef is tender and juicy, complements well with the tasty sauce, rich with savoury flavours.

Then it is stove dish 焜炉 featuring Udon in Chicken Broth, with Olive Pork, Shiitake Mushroom, Carrot, Leek, Radish, and Tofu さめきの夢を使つた卓袱饂飩すき 鶏摘入れ オリーブ豚 椎茸 焼板 人参 観音葱 大根 豆腐.

The rice 御飯 is Steamed Rice with Olive Chicken, together with Pickles オリーブ地鶏飯 香の物盛り合わせ. The Soup 止椀 uses Sanuki Miso, with Seaweed, Nameko Mushroom, Spring Onion, and Japanese Pepper 讃岐味噌仕立て ワカメ 滑子 葱 粉山椒.

Dessert 口直し is Milk Pudding from Local Farm with Fruit 藤川牧場のミルクプリン フルーツ.

Taking a walk around the hotel to help digestion, we go back to the balcony in the hotel lobby again for the wonderful night view of Takamatsu before going back to sleep.