2020年3月15日 星期日

Wineshark Hotel Stay - Kai Tsugaru 界 津軽

Address: 青森県南津軽郡大鰐町大鰐字上牡丹森36-1

Tel: N/A

Website: https://kai-ryokan.jp/tsugaru/

Date of Visit: 3 Nov 2019



After finishing the walk around Nakamachi Komise Street in Kuroishi, we drove for about 30 minutes to arrive at the ryokan we were staying for the night - Kai Tsugaru. It was also the sixth Kai I visited. Reopened on 1 April, 2019, now there are 41 rooms in the ryokan. Following a quick registration we were shown to our room - Signature Room featuring ornamentation made with Tsugaru Koginzashi Needlework (津軽こぎんの間).







This traditional Aomori’s art was born in the Edo Period (江戸時代), as a method to increase the strength and heat retention of clothes, and gradually used to decorate the kimonos as beautiful decorations. It uses horizontal and vertical symmetrical rhombuses as basic motifs and is a traditional craft that represents Aomori.


In the corridor of the guesthouse building, which is about 60m long, the “Sunlight Kogin” (木漏れ日) was created, where the light is shining through this traditional craft, making amazingly beautiful effects. A number of fantastic lighting with kogin patterns is created by kogin designer, Mr. Masamasa Yamabata (山端家昌), who works on the signature rooms, are projected onto the skylights and walls.


We went for a bath at the public onsen before dinner. One can see the four seasons of Aomori from the public bath through a large window, with a great view of greenery in spring and summer, yellow and red leaves in autumn, and a snow-covered garden during winter.

The indoor bath is called Ashinoyu (檜の湯), with the bath made from wood that is 2,000 years old, providing a rich ambiance, and has been used for medical treatment since ancient times. There are some apples put into the onsen, representing the signature produce of the prefecture.

The bath is opened from 15:00 to 24:00, re-opening at 05:00 to 11:00. It is a colourless sulphate springs (硫酸塩泉), good for curing neuralgia, myalgia, arthritis, fifty shoulders, movement paralysis, chronic digestive tract disease, coldness, fatigue recovery and skin disease.



Returning to rest for a short while we headed to the restaurant for dinner. Both dinner and breakfast are served at this restaurant, offering good private space and a comfortable and calm atmosphere in a sophisticated space.

One of the most iconic foodstuff in Aomori Prefecture is tuna. Surrounded by deep sea, the famous Oma (大間) tuna caught from autumn to winter. At the best season the tuna is called “black diamond”. The ryokan prepared the tuna, including Akami and Toro, in a variety of ways, to taste the delicious sashimi and nigiri sushi.


Apple juice tasting


鮪と長芋のあられ和え


甘鯛  海老  茸いろいろ



さもだし  菊


白玉胡桃味噌  鶏と干し葡萄の松風  鱸の棒寿司  鮭の幽庵焼き  秋刀魚油煮ずんだ和え


甘海老紹興酒漬け


ぶどうの白和え


大間の鮪の握り寿司  大間の鮪のお造り  赤身  中トロ


帆立進上の変おり揚  野菜の天婦羅  抹茶塩


たつぶりの鮪節でとつた旨だし  牛しゃぶ  野菜


漬け鮪  薬味  白飯  吸い物


りんごの淡雪チーズ

There is a live performance of the Tsugaru Shamisen (三味線) being held in the lobby by the national champion Kohei Shibuya (渋谷幸平) and the ryokan staff who received his guidance. Tsugaru Shamisen is distinct from other shamisen music, and is characterized by percussion-like playing techniques, mainly "tapping".

In order to deliver the unique sound that comes from the instrument to the guests’ ears, the music is played live and does not pass through a microphone. While listening, guests can also enjoy looking at the large mural "Shunjuhato" (春秋波濤) by Japanese master painter, Matazo Kayama (加山又造).

After a good rest, breakfast that incorporates local ingredients and recipes are offered in the morning. The ryokan uses scallops, bonito with green onions and miso to prepare Tsugaru's local cuisine Kaiyaki miso (貝焼き味噌). The fragrant scent is stimulating to the appetite.


Apple and Grape Juice


Chicken and Tofu Meatball, Carrot, Shiitake Mushroom, White Radish, Lotus, Okra


Mackerel Grilled with Miso Paste


Tofu  Pickles



Scallop, Shimeji Mushroom, Green Onion





Tsugaru Koginzashi Needlework is popular among handicraft fans and young women because it can arrange beautiful symmetry patterns in a modern style. The ryokan has prepared an original paper “bookmark making” experience that anyone can easily do. Guests can take the completed koginzashi bookmark as a souvenir too.

  • Room package for two (including dinner and breakfast) - 94,700 yen

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