Wineshark Japan Trip - Taketomi 2017 (Day 1)

Taketomi is a small island located in the Yaeyama District of Okinawa Prefecture. The reason why we have chosen to go there is mainly because of the resort that we want to stay, and also to experience the peacefulness of the neighborhood.

This is also our first time to take the HK Express airline, which operates a scheduled flight between Hong Kong and Ishigaki, the main island and gateway in the Yaeyama District. It is a budget airline, so I have to pay extra for check-in baggage and seats with extra leg-room. While not opting for meals, in the end the round-trip ticket costs me $5,106 for two, not exactly cheap honest speaking.

With original ETA 07:45, there was a delay before take-off due to busy traffic in HK airport, we finally arrived Ishigaki airport around 11:30. The airport is very small, and the international section even tinier so even though there were only our flight all the passengers jammed the whole arrival hall. It took a while to pass through immigration and customs.

The weather was quite nice, a bit cloudy but not hot with a little breeze. We then took a 30-min taxi ride to the Ishigaki port, the fare was ¥3,040 but you can also opt for the bus which costs ¥500 per person. There are three ferry operators with frequent sailings, and checking the one that would leave the soonest, we bought tickets for the ferry leaving 13:20, costing ¥1,200.  

Deciding to have lunch in Taketomi, we walked around the terminal and bought some snacks, as well as the mascot for Yaeyama District, Pikarya. Walking out to the pier, the water is pristine and light blue in color. Boarding the small high-speed ferry, it took us only 15 minutes to arrive at Taketomi.

There on the terminal the shuttle bus from the resort was already waiting, and after checking our names the staff helped us to take the luggage onto the bus and drove us to Hoshinoya Taketomi. After a short ride of 10 minutes, we arrived at the resort, where the staff was already standing at the entrance to greet us.

Hoshinoya Taketomi belongs to Hoshino Resorts, the famous ryokan operator with more than 100 years of history. This resort aims to provide luxury and comfort for the guests, along with unique architecture and landscaping, delicious food and quiet atmosphere. After a simple registration process, the staff explained the facilities to us and then we went to the restaurant for lunch before it was closed.

I ordered a Fisherman’s Don which basically was a bowl of rice with two types of sashimi, with some sea grapes on top, supplemented by some finely sliced leek. Though simple, the taste was good and all the ingredients were very fresh and a little bit of soy sauce had already been added so there was no need to further add any seasoning. I also had a bottle of local black beer which was nice with good malt flavor.

Then we went back to the reception and took the electric golf cart to our pavilion. The whole resort is designed to maintain the local culture and harmonized with the natural environment. For example, the white sands covering the roads and gardens consist of crushed coral transported from the coast. They reflect light into homes during the day and glow in the moonlight after dark. Every day, they are swept with a broom in a purifying ritual practiced in the village as well.

The stone walls winding through the resort are known as "gukku." Each has been built by artisans based on local "gukku" that have existed before the introduction of cars. They are designed to protect homes from strong winds while also offering privacy. Embedded in the "gukku" that wind through the resort, are talismans known as "ishiganto" for warding off evil spirits. These are placed at junctures where the road meets a "gukku," as it is believed in Okinawa that evil spirits can only move in straight lines.

We were assigned Pavilion 221, Gajoni, located at the outer end of the resort for more privacy. At the gateway of our pavilion stands a wall of stones known as a "hinpun." They are a common feature of Taketomi villages that offer privacy and are believed to ward off evil spirits. The custom is to enter one's home from the left side of the "hinpun."

Like all homes on Taketomi Island, ours and every pavilion features a private garden. The red-tiled roofs serve more than just a decorative purpose. The eaves are designed to offer shade from the sun, as well as protect homes from being damaged by strong winds and rain during the typhoon season.

On top there is the Shisa, Okinawan for "lion." These figurines stand guard on top of roofs and are said to chase off disasters and evil spirits that attempt to invade homes and villages. They are made from leftover materials after the making of roof tiles, so no two shisa are the same.

The pavilion also has wood-framed glass doors that lead directly into the living areas, giving guests the option of opening up their rooms to fully enjoy their gardens and the ocean breeze. I am sure the people in Taketomi are all friendly and nice, as there is virtually no door or gate to prevent outsiders from coming into your premises.

Inside the pavilion is a huge living area, with wooden flooring and wooden beams and columns supporting the roof. There is a huge, comfortable sofa facing the windows where one can lazily lay down to relax. On the side there is also a table with chairs for you to enjoy your meal if you opt for in-room dining. The pavilion is also equipped with a mini-stereo with a local music CD to display the cultural songs.

The bedroom is also very big with a bigger than king-sized bed, and as explained by the staff the roof was deliberately set lower here and also with a darker tone to offer a sense of security and comfort for the people sleeping inside.

The bathroom is simply gigantic in size, with a huge bathtub located in the middle, a shower room on the side, as well as the make-up table adjacent. Taking a bath in such luxury and comfortable setting really made every one relax and forget the worries of work or other matters for the time being.

After admiring the grandeur of the pavilion, we decided to visit the other facilities of the resort. We first went to the Observation Deck. The entire resort is visible from this vantage point, as well as the Pacific Ocean beyond Aiyaru Beach. The sight of the sun rising over the horizon is particularly worth catching as well. Benches are provided so that guests may enjoy these views of Taketomi Island in comfort.

Then we carried on to Aiyaru Beach, which is just a short-distance (about 5 minutes) walk from the resort. It spreads along the east coast of the island. It is a quiet spot with few visitors. The currents are too rapid for swimming, but the beach offers lovely views of the sunrise and passing ships. The water are crystal clear and we were able to find many small sea creatures, like sea cucumber, crabs, fish, shrimps, clams and so on.  

Walking back we went to the Yuntaku Lounge, which is the common space located in the center of the resort featuring a raised seating area that forms into a deck as it juts out toward the pool. There are books, CDs, and newspapers available for borrowing as well as a beverage stand, Internet booth, and a shop selling local ceramics.

With the sun setting, we went back to our pavilion, took a shower and changed before heading to the restaurant for our dinner. The cuisine is “Nouvelle French cuisine, à la Okinawa” meaning the French with Okinawa elements. All the dishes were served with dinnerware displaying the culinary worlds conjured by the chef. Collaborating with Okinawan ceramic artist Jissei Omine, the resort has developed a unique set of dishes that are distinctly Okinawan, while complimenting French elements.

All the food was wonderful and tasty, but I particularly like the main course of Roasted Pork and Boudin Blanc Sausage, served with fresh seasonal vegetables. It was my first time I tasted tenderloin marinated perfectly and giving a crunchy texture on the bite. Inside the pork is stuffed with a piece of foie gras, further enhancing the fat level and the fragrance of the dish.

I also had the wine pairing to accompany my meal, with a total of five glasses of different wines. There was Champagne, American Arneis, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, Italian Chianti Classico and Sauternes. Most of the pairing was done nicely indeed. After dessert I also had a cup of coffee which was nicely brewed, and overall the meal was highly satisfactory, with all the ingredients extremely fresh and delicate, able to enjoy the true taste of the food itself while savoring the beautiful sunset.