2015年8月23日 星期日

Chateau La Tour Figeac

The history of Chateau La Tour Figeac begisn with Figeac, one of the two grand chateaux in St-Emilion, with the other being Cheval-Blanc. It started when the Ducasse family acquired a portion of the property in 1832, and a portion was again sold to a gentleman called Corbiere, who acquired a 37 hectare plot in 1879.

Two years later he divided it into two, half keeping for himself, which is La Tour Figeac, and the rest selling off, which became La-Tour-du-Pin-Figeac. Approximately one hundred years later, in 1973 it was sold by then proprietor Francois Rapin to the Rettenmaiers, a family from Heilbronn in Germany, with the heir Maximilian started managing the estate since 1994.

He was assisted by a technical director named Christine Derenoncourt, from the same family of the famous oenologist Stephane, as well as Francois Bouchet on biodynamics matters. Today Christine stepped back as a consultant, with the cellar now in charge by Caroline Guillier.

The vineyards comprise 14.5 hectares, about one-quarter closest to Cheval Blanc and possessing the valuable gravel terroir which gives the region of Graves-St-Emilion its name. As one moves across the vineyard there is increasing proportion of sand and loam.

The vines are predominantly Merlot which accounts for 60% and the rest being Cabernet Franc, with average vine age of 35 years. The vines are planted at 6500 vines per hectare, benefit from some recently installed drainage. The vines are grown using biodynamic way, with no chemical pesticide or treatments of any sort, and only biodynamically raised manure.

Yields are typically held at 40 hl/ha by pruning, bunch-thinning and green-harvesting. The grapes are harvested by hand, and there is a mix of pumping over and punching down to submerge the cap in the wood vats, for maceration and increase extraction. The wine is then fed into oak barrels which may be 100% new in some vintages, to rest for up to 18 months for the grand vin Chateau La Tour Figeac, of about 3300 cases.

The second wine L’Esquisse de La Tour Figeac would see 12 months in oak, with production about 1250 cases. The former is generally dominated by Merlot of about 60-80% of the blend, whereas the latter is more variable on vintage. No fining is done, although the wine may be filtered before bottling if deemed necessary.

I have recently tasted the 2008 vintage and below is my tasting note:

Appearance
Bright and clear, it has medium ruby color, with garnet rims and legs.

Nose
Clean, with medium intensity aromas of black fruit of plum and dark cherries, dried fruit of prune, kernel notes of chocolate, pungent spice of licorice, oak notes of cedar, hints of maturity notes of game. The wine is developing.

Palate
Dry with medium acidity, the wine has medium tannin which is ripe and well-integrated, with medium alcohol. The wine has medium (+) body and medium intensity of black fruit such as plum, blackberry and dark cherries, oak notes of cedar, some herbal notes of mint, kernel notes of coffee. The wine has a medium finish.

Conclusion

Good quality St-Emilion showing some typical characters of the region, this wine has a reasonable intensity on the nose, with decent complexity though not particularly interesting. On the palate its tannin is ripe and integrated, plummy but got a bit of herbal notes maybe showing the less than ideal vintage, with a reasonable length on the finish. It is ready to drink now and not supposed to be further aged. 

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