2014年3月14日 星期五

Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte


Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte has a history dating back as long ago as 1365, when the Bosq family had undertaken viticulture there. In the 16th century there were records proving the existence of the domaine, but it was only two centuries later that the first Smith came to the scene, with George Smith, a Scottish merchant, purchasing the estate.

The name ‘haut lafitte’ means high hillock and refers to its topography. George Smith was also responsible for developing the estate, constructing a manor house, maintaining active viticulture and exporting the wine to England.

By 1842 the estate came to French ownership, with Lodi Duffour-Dubergier, the one-time mayor of Bordeaux and the sole signatory of the 1855 classification of the Medoc, inherited it from his mother.The family further built the reputation of the property, selling the wine worldwide, carried by Louis Eschenauer.

In 1958 the Eschenauer company purchased the estate, constructing the underground cellar but the quality of the wine was still fairly lackluster. Then the current owner, Daniel Cathiard and his wife Florence, took over in 1990, and bringing the quality of the wine to an unprecedented level.

The Cathiards invested heavily in the estate, restoring buildings, replacing vats and constructing a new cellar. The estate has since augmented by Les Sources de Caudalie, a complex of restaurants, a hotel and a health spa. An interesting feature is the addition of an entrance to the cellar underneath, opening from the tasting room floor.

Recently there is a purchase of 11.6 hectares from the neighboring Chateau Le Thil in 2012, which was once owned by Georges Duffour de Raymond, a nephew of Lodi Duffour Dubergier. The area planted to vines now is approximately 78 hectares, with 67 hectares of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot.

The remaining 11 hectares are planted with white varieties, of 90% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Sauvignon Gris and 5% Semillon. The average vine age is 38 years in red and 40 years in white, with density of 7500 and 10000 vines per hectare. The soils are typical of the region, mainly Gunzian gravel.

The vineyard management has moved away from mechanical and chemical influences, with herbicides banned in 1992, and overall it is working towards organic. The fruit is harvested by hand, with the yield reduced to 30 hl/ha for both red and white.

The grapes are initially sorted upon picking, then at the winery after destemming, with vibrating table installed and in 2009 the optical sorting technology is introduced. The white grapes are pressed using new equipment installed in 2008, then cooled during settling, with the red going straight to alcoholic fermentation, with up to 32 days of maceration.

The white is fermented in 13 small stainless steel vats while the red in 80 hl tronconic oak vats, with the cap submerged three times per day plus pumping over. It is under the supervision of Fabien Teitgen and Yann Laudeho, consulted by Michel Rolland and Stephane Derenoncourt.

Both wines then undergo malolactic fermentation in oak, followed by elevage, with the red up to 18 months in 60% new barrels, the white 12 months in 50% new oak with batonnage. All the barrels are made by the on-site cooper Jean-Luc Itey. The wines do not go through any fining or filtering.

The grand vin is Chateau Smith Haut-Lafitte, with the red producing typically 8300 cases and white 2500 cases. The second wines, a red, a white as well as a rose, go under the name of Les Petit Hauts de Smith, around 5500 cases per annum. Starting 2009 the second label is called Le Petit Haut Lafitte.

I have recently tasted the 2007 and 2008 vintage for the red, and the 2007 vintage for the right. Please see if you have some comments:

Appearance
Bright and clear, it is of deep intensity ruby color, with thin garnet rims and legs.

Nose
Clean, with medium (+) intensity aromas of black fruit such as blackcurrant and blackberry, kernel notes of chocolate, pungent spice of licorice, oak notes of cedar, maturity notes of savory and tobacco. The wine is developing.

Palate
Dry with medium acidity, the wine has medium (+) tannin, a bit bitter and silky in texture. Medium in alcohol, it has medium (+) body with medium intensity flavors of black fruit such as blackberry and cassis, oak notes of cedar, pungent spice of licorice, maturity notes of cigar box. The wine has a medium finish.

Conclusion
Good quality Pessac-Leognan with a nose that shows good concentration after opening for two hours, with plenty of different aromas showing good complexity, the wine is elegant with a good structure, a bit bitter on the tannin which probably can be due to the vintage. The palate has nevertheless reasonable intensity and complexity, and finishing with a good length. The wine is ready to drink now but can benefit from further ageing of another 2-3 years.

Appearance
Bright and clear, the wine is of deep intensity ruby color, with legs.

Nose
Clean, with medium intensity aromas of black fruit such as blackberry and ripe cassis, oak notes of cedar, kernel notes of chocolate, maturity notes of savory, pungent spice of licorice, sweet spice of cloves. The wine is developing.

Palate
Dry with medium acidity, the wine has medium (+) tannin, ripe and silky in texture. Medium in alcohol, it has full body with medium intensity flavors of black fruit such as blackberry and blackcurrant, oak notes of cedar, kernel notes of cocoa, pungent spice of licorice. The wine has a medium finish.

Conclusion
Good quality Pessac-Leognan with reasonable concentration on the nose, showing good complexity, the wine is of elegance, yet demonstrating the structure which is well-delineated. The tannin is ripe and smooth even at the young age, with fair intensity and a reasonable length. Overall the wine is a bit too young to drink now, and need to further age for another 2-3 years.

Appearance
Bright and clear, it is of medium intensity gold color, with long legs.

Nose
Clean, with medium (+) intensity aromas showing green fruit of pear, citrus fruit of lemon peel and grapefruit, mineral notes of wax, stone fruit of peach, oak notes of toast, kernel notes of pine nuts, maturity notes of cereal. The wine is developing.

Palate
Dry with medium (+) acidity, the wine has medium (+) alcohol and full body, with medium (+) intensity flavors of citrus fruit such as lemon peel, green fruit of grapefruit and lemon peel, stone fruit of peach, oak notes of toast, kernel nuts of almond. The wine has a long finish.

Conclusion
Very good quality Pessac-Leognan white with a good intense nose, ample of different characters showing high complexity, the wine is elegant and lively, with vibrant acidity balancing well with the full body. The palate has equally concentrated flavors, also showing the complexity and a very long finish. It is ready to drink now though can benefit from further ageing of another 4-6 years.

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