2013年10月28日 星期一

Chateau Citran


Chateau Citran has a history dated back to the Middle Ages, but the chateau only went back to the 18th century, from the old fortress that was built in the 13th century. The estate was acquired in 1832 by the Clauzel family, but the vineyards contracted from 90 ha to a mere 4 ha. In 1945 it was purchased by the Miailhe brothers, Edouard and Louis, who were brokers and negociants.

They held onto it for several decades, when the estate was passed to Louis’s daughter, who sold it to the Japanese Societe Touko Haus in 1987, seeing committed investment. Later it was Groupe Taillan, led by Jacques Merlaut, taking over in 1997, who already had owned properties in the region including Ferriere, Gruaud-Larose, Chasse-Spleen, La Gurgue and Haut-Bages-Liberal. It was Celine Villars that holds the reins.

The vineyards are located in Avensen, west of Margaux and covering 410 hectares. Two plots which both entitled to Haut-Medoc appellation, totaling 90 hectares, are adjacent to the chateau and near Avensen. Terroir is typically gravel, with some sand, marl and chalky clay. It is planted with 58% Cabernet Sauvignon and 42% Merlot, with average vine age of 25 years.

There is plan to deforest some adjacent high land to grow more Cabernet. The vineyards are ploughed between in rows, with manual harvesting. Fermentation is carried out in stainless steel with temperature control, with three week cuvaison, followed by one year in barrels which are 40% new. The wine is then fined using egg white before bottling, with the grand vin being Chateau Citran of 25000 cases, and the second wine Moulins de Citran of about 16000 cases.

I have recently tasted the 2003 vintage and below is my tasting note:

Appearance
Bright and clear, this wine is of medium ruby color and with legs.

Nose
Clean, the nose shows medium (+) intensity aromas of red fruit such as redcurrant and plum, black fruit of cassis and dark cherries, under ripeness notes of green bell pepper, oak notes of cedar, maturity notes of vegetal. The wine is developing.

Palate
Dry with medium acidity, medium tannin of smooth and silky texture, the wine has medium alcohol and is of medium body with medium intensity flavors of black fruit of dark cherries, oak notes of cedar, red fruit of plum. The wine has a medium (-) finish.

Conclusion
Acceptable quality Haut-Medoc with a fairly intense nose of reasonable complexity, however, the wine has some rather unripe characters associated, on both nose and palate, and the palate is particularly simple with also quite a disappointing finish. Coming from a good vintage of 2003, it is surprising about the unripeness. Ready to drink now and not intend for further ageing.

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