2013年3月31日 星期日

Chateau Haut-Batailley


Chateau Haut-Batailley is the smaller sibling of the neighboring Batailley, having split from the larger estate in 1942, with the location of the greater Batailley used to be one of the siege in the Hundred Years’ War. A vineyard was developed there by the end of the 18th century, which gave rise to the two estates today.

At that time it was under the ownership of the Saint-Martin family. With two of the three siblings in the clergy, the sisters decided to sell the estate to Jean Guillaume Pecholier in 1791. Pecholier later passed this estate to his son Amiral de Bedout, who then sold by auction after his death, to Daniel and Barton Guestier, who purchased other lands nearby.

The brothers also renovated the chateau and improved the winemaking facilities, which brought the estate a fifth growth status in the 1855 classification. However, the family decided to sell the estate in 1866, to a Parisian banker named Constant Halphen. By then the vineyards had reached 55 hectares in total, tended by Francois and Marcel Borie.

The Borie brothers purchased the estate upon Halphen’s death in 1932, and in 1942 it was divided into Batailley and Haut-Batailley, with the larger part came to Marcel and retaining the original name of Batailley. Francois kept the smaller part to form Haut-Batailley.

Francois also purchased Ducru-Beaucaillou in that year, as well as some vines in Duhart-Milon in 1951. In 1953 the estate was passed to his daughter Francoise de Brest-Borie, but the management of the estate was still left to Jean-Eugene, Francois’ son who inherited Ducru.

The vineyards now cover 22 hectares, with gravelly soil. Planted with 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc, the average age is about 35 years. Manually harvested, the fruit is destemmed and fermented in stainless steel tanks with temperature control, before going to oak for up to 20 months.

Up to 40% new oak is used each year, and a light filtration is carried out before bottling. The grand vin is Chateau Haut-Batailley, with 10000 cases per annum, and the second wine is Tour d’Aspic, with 1700 cases. It is regarded by many as a great value for money buy, generally being more feminine than the classic Pauillac.

I have recently tasted the 2004 vintage and below is my tasting note:

Good quality Pauillac with medium ruby color, a good intense nose showing good complexity of blackcurrant and blackberry, savory, sweet tobacco and pencil shavings, liquorice, rubber, smoke, coffee. A good acidity providing the structure, though the tannin is a bit rough and grippy, the palat...e is in reasonable concentration with flavors of blackcurrant and blackberry, toast and cedar, liquorice, chocolate, tobacco. Having a reasonable finish, it is ready to drink now though can benefit from further ageing of another 5-7 years.

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