This
Michelin 1-star restaurant is located inside JW Marriott Hotel in Admiralty, offering
traditional Cantonese cuisine infused with contemporary elements. It has been
five years since my last visit, and today we return to see what has changed.
Greeted by
the staff warming at the entrance, she led us to the spacious main dining room,
seated at a comfortable table near the tea bar. The décor has not changed much,
still creating a neat, elegant yet high-end ambience that is relaxing.
I have a
bottle of Devo MV03 Brut Nature ($1,080) to pair with the food tonight. A nice sparkling
wine from Ningxia in China, it has red apple, lemon peel, white peach over some
yeasty notes of brioche and biscuit. There is also a hint of sweet corn in the
aroma. Great value for money.
The complimentary
amuse bouche is Marinated Green Papaya with Abalone, serving in a passionfruit
sauce. The abalone, although small, has intense flavours and a good bite,
contrasting with the soft papaya. The sweet and sour taste helps to stimulate
the appetite.
For starters,
we have Signature BBQ Pork with Honey Sauce ($188 for 4 pieces). The Spanish
Iberico pork is very tender, even with the thick cut it is not tough on the
bite, with a nice glaze of honey sauce. The smaller portion also allows us to
sample this without having to take the full serving, a thoughtful arrangement.
Next, we
have Stir-Fried Frog Legs with Soy Sauce ($208). The meaty frog legs have
caramelized surface, seasoned well from the high-quality soy sauce used,
keeping the umami and savoury but not salty. Adding the spring onion white for
fragrance, we both like this dish a lot.
Moving to
soups, my wife has Double-Boiled Fish Maw Soup ($288), with the clear soup rich
in umami flavours, having plenty of ingredients including conch, conpoy and
preserved citrus. The ingredients are premium and high quality, and the touch
of citrus helps to bring forth a nice fragrance plus smoothen the throat.
I have the
usual pick of Hot and Sour Soup ($248). The soup has a lot of ingredients,
including an oyster, finely shredded fish maw, fungus, bean curd and bamboo
shoot. The taste of peppercorn is apparent with the spiciness kicking in but
not over-dominating. The soup is full of flavours and wonderful in taste.
For the
main courses, trying something new we have Sauteed Garoupa Fillets with Chinese
Chive Flowers ($688). Elevating the traditional low-end dish, the preserved
vegetables, dried white bait and dried shrimps are still the spotlights, with
the chive flowers and shredded taro also amazing. My favourite in the evening.
The other
one is Tea-Smoked Marinated Chicken with Soy Sauce ($428 for half). Served in
casserole, the chicken is tender and juicy, absorbing the smoky fragrance. A
lot of preparation must be done for the flavours of the soy sauce to lightly
embed into the meat and skin, without making it salty.
The Braised
Pomelo Peel ($288) with dried shrimp roe is a dish many restaurants no longer
offer because of the effort required, but they cannot charge a high price. Here
the pomelo skin is nicely done, not bitter or having any strange taste. The
shrimp roe adds umami, with the abalone sauce delicious.
We both
take Dessert of the Day ($88 each) which is Red Bean Soup with Aged Tangerine
Peel. Appropriate in sweetness, the red beans have been boiled to the right
degree, bursting and getting the soup to be ‘sandy’. The tangerine peel was also
very fragrant, bringing the common dessert to an extra level.
The complimentary
Petits Fours include Yuzu Cake and Coconut Biscuit. The yuzu cake has a
refreshing taste, with the citrus notes helping to cleanse the palate. The biscuit
is made with shredded coconut meat, with a rich note that is pleasant. A small
snack to finish off the dinner on a sweet and happy note.
Service is
good, with the staff attentive and helpful but they can also do a more detailed
introduction of the dishes. The bill on the night is $4,123 and considering the
overall dining experience and food quality, I would rate this restaurant an
Excellent 80 points, worth returning.