Seeing increasingly more media coverage of
Chef Zinc, in recognition to what he did to promote the local seafood and produce, as well as his amazing food, I can also feel the pride as a regular patron. Today we return to this Shau Kei
Wan secret haven to see what he has prepared for us.
Occupying our usual spot on the 10-seat
sushi counter, we were greeted by Chef Zinc and his team warmly. As I brought a
bottle of wine to share with him, I did not order any sake. With the arrival of
a couple of more guests, the dinner promptly started.
First is the prized Uchiura Bay Kuro-Hokkigai
with Yunnan Termites Mushroom. Chef Zinc first used the mushroom to prepare a
broth to lightly poach the surf clam, making some cuts for easy bite, before serving
together with the shredded mushroom. The combined bouncy and soft texture of
the two was very pleasant, and the broth was sweet with umami.
Second is the seasonal Kobako-Gani
Chawanmushi. Chef Zinc toasted the shell of female snow crab to make a bisque
from the extract, then added sauteed crab miso to whisked egg to make a silky
soft steamed custard. On the surface, the orange-brown sauce was made from crab
roe, rich in flavours with also a touch of acidity from wild kabosu to freshen.
In the middle is crab meat roll wrapped in kombu, seasoned by very fragrant
local fennel flower.
Third is a dish Chef Zinc showcased in the
earlier Red Hot Chef competition. Featuring a two-catty Lamma Island caught Star
Snapper, Chef Zinc wrapped the fillet with its skin to make a roll, then
steamed under a lower temperature to maintain a moist and soft texture. He
further used the fish bones and soy sauce to prepare a sauce, the fish innards
to make fish oil, then splashed back on the steamed fish in Cantonese style, to
further enhance the flavours. On top are a couple of local garlic scape to give
a mild garlic fragrance.
Next begins a series of sushi, starting
with Pacific Ocean Perch caught near Po Toi Island. Having aged for two weeks
and seasoned with a bit of yuzu and sea salt, the fish has a sweet taste and
very tender texture.
The second sushi featured Chef Zinc’s
favourite fish: Hirame. The 6-catty local flounder was huge in size, with a
delicate mild taste and a supple, firm bite on texture. Nowadays many
restaurants are offering farmed ones, so wild version of this size is rarely seen.
It is a real treat.
The third sushi brings us back to Japan,
featuring Kawahagi from Oita. Using its liver to make a paste, then adding plenty
of finely chopped scallions, the umami and savoury of the thread-sail filefish was
amazing. One of our favourites in the evening.
The fourth sushi features Toro-Sawara from
Mie. The special Japanese Spanish mackerel is caught on lines individually,
with exceptional fatty level, rich in taste like fatty tuna. After searing
briefly on charcoal, the skin has become crispy. Season with a bit of sea salt,
the fish oil enriches the flavours tremendously.
Taking a break on the sushi, Chef Zinc’s
brought us the seasonal Matsutake. Flown in from Yunnan on the same day of
harvest, the prized mushroom is prepared in tempura style, without any
seasoning, to enjoy the original taste. Bursting with juice, depending on
preference one can also add a touch of salt or citrus to enhance the flavours.
Then comes another of Chef Zinc’s signature,
Shirako Risotto. Cooking cod milt for extended period to remove the unpleasant
taste, it is then grinded to a thick paste and cook with matsutake mushroom,
before adding in arborio to prepare this wonderful risotto. Some fresh Ganba Fungus,
rated as the pinnacle of Yunnan fungus, are put on top, which supplements a
beautiful unique fragrance. Truly fantastic.
Another hot dish is Grilled Kinki. The
channel rockfish has been marinated in shochu before searing on charcoal, to
give a crisp surface while keeping the flesh moist. It is very tender, with an
amazing taste of fish oil. The sauce is made from fish bones, hard clam and
scallions, seasoned with a touch of sansho, rich in wonderful umami. On the
side the lemon balm leaf gives the citrus fragrance to freshen the overall
experience.
Finishing some dishes with rich flavours, Chef
Zinc brings us Pickled Yunnan Golden Ear Fungus to serve as palate cleanser, the
fungus is cooked with lemon and honey, infused with a mellow acidity and helps
to remove the unpleasant taste of the fungus. The interesting gelatine texture is
also memorable.
The second round of sushi starts from Bafun
Uni, with multiple layers of sea urchin put on top of the roll. While the sea
urchin is not in season, they are sweet in taste, with a melt-in-the-mouth
texture and still very good and enjoyable, testimony to Chef Zinc’s effort to only
pick the best quality ingredients.
The sixth sushi features Buri from Oita,
with the matured yellowtail very large in size, weighing almost 15kg. Chef Zinc
uses half of the belly to prepare the sushi, while the remaining he puts to age
for later use. The sear on the skin gives a nice crispness, with some shichimi sprinkled
to add an extra layer of spiciness to season.
The seventh sushi is Akami, with the lean cut
coming from a large tuna weighing over 200kg. After marinating in shoyu briefly
to infuse the meat with umami, the texture is very soft, with the perfect level
of saltiness which made it unstoppable. It is great that I got to enjoy two
pieces this evening thanks to Chef Zinc.
The eighth sushi continues to come from the
same tuna, but this time using the fatty cut of O-Toro. On the bite all the
guests are amazed because it is so tasty, first because Chef Zinc smoked the
fatty tuna with hay beforehand, and then using smoked minced garlic, replacing wasabi,
as the condiment. A genius approach showcasing his talent.
Finishing my bottle of wine, I decide to
order an additional serving of sake, picking
大山 特別純米 ひやおろし. Brewed by 加藤嘉八郎酒造, this limited
autumn sake has crisp acidity, perfect to match seasonal fish such as sardines
with its good fattiness.
The Tamagoyaki has also specially upgraded,
adding the stir-fried Yunnan black truffle and shiitake to the egg mixture
before making the Japanese egg omelette, creating an extra dimension coming from
the mushroom. With plenty of shaved Yunnan black truffles on top to further
enhance the fragrance.
The Soup is prepared using Shiro Mirugai, with
the white geoduck provided great umami taste to the clear soup, with some white
miso to enhance the flavours. There are also fresh Yunnan Bamboo Pith with good
texture and hints of sake aromas. Very sweet in taste, the crunchy texture of
geoduck and bamboo pith supplements each other impeccably.
Filling there are some rooms left in our
stomach, we ask Chef Zinc for additional sushi. He duly prepares two for us,
the first being local Brown-Spotted Grouper. While it might not be as
flavourful compared with the perch or star snapper, the texture is amazing. A
few drops of kabosu juice help to elevate the freshness.
The other additional one is specially
reserved for us: Engawa. Chef Zinc lightly cut the prized skirt of the local
flounder to make it easy to chew, and then marinate in a special shoyu with
herbs, before lightly sears to vitalize the fish oil. Very delicious, it is one
of the best pieces on the night, and we thank Chef Zinc for keeping this
especially for us.
Coming to dessert, Chef Zinc has prepared
three different ones for us. The first one is his signature Tiramisu, but
instead of coffee, he uses hojicha as the ingredients with mascarpone. Together
with some shaved chocolate and hazelnuts it is nicely done, not too sweet, and
did not feel heavy.
The second dessert is Annou-Imo Monaka. Mixing
the special sweet potato grown on Tanegashima at Kagoshima with vanilla seeds, together
with freshly made mochi, it is then put inside the crunchy monaka shell. Chef
Zinc jokingly called them mooncakes, and the reduced sweetness level, with the
combination of different texture, is memorable.
The last dessert is Shiitake Panna Cotta. Leveraging
the background in Italian cuisine, Chef Zinc used dried shiitake mushroom to add
to the milk, before chilling them to form the shape. The addition of some salt
helps to elevate the taste further, showing an interesting hazelnut white
chocolate flavour.
Service is great as always, and the whole
dinner is pure wonder and enjoyment. The bill on the night is $6,270. We
continue to be amazed by the creativity of Chef Zinc, his use of local
ingredients plus Yunnan fungus featured today, I also have deep admiration on his
meticulous attention in preparing different sauce and condiment. My highest
recommendation.