Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Azito 味渡

From the four-hands dinner at Sushi Kumogaku in August, I get to know about this kappo restaurant located on 9/F of FOCO in Central. In order to experience the complete culinary talents of Chef Tomi, I come here on a Friday evening in early October, with the weather finally starting to get a bit cooler at night.

Stepping out the escalator the staff takes us into a nice dining area, featuring a circular stone counter constructed from black marble. In the centre is the chef’s table where customers can see the cutting and cooking in action. Chef Tomi comes out to greet us with his signature smile, and the clicking sound when he walks shows that he is wearing wooden scandals, and in a way signaling he is a person who treasures and values tradition.

There are two menus to choose from, and I have picked the one costing $2,800 per person. To pair with the food, I also have a bottle of 阿部勘 純米大吟醸 白鶴錦 ($1,080). This Miyagi sake is made from the special sake rice 白鶴錦, a brother varietal of 山田錦, with moderate aromas and flavours, the characters are a bit like white wine. A versatile sake.

Chef Tomi first heats up a wire mash on the stove, before placing a clay pot on it to heat up until it is boiling. The first course グツグツ means searing hot dish, featuring Suppon, a premium ingredient in Japan. The Soft-shelled Turtle Soup is prepared with some scallions and ginger, together with outer edge of the shell of the turtle, seasonal Chestnut, and the lightly grilled Cod Milt. The combination of the different texture, and the phenomenal taste is so good that I cannot stop scooping up the soup rapidly, without worrying the risk of burning my tongue, as every single drop is pure flavour and enjoyment.

The second course is 鱧焼き, with the chef cutting the Hamo meticulously to break the small bones, then prepares the Grilled Conger Pike over charcoal inside the kitchen. There is also some mashed Potato and Kikuna to go with the fish, with a sauce made with Kabosu, a type of Citrus fruit, to give a refreshing taste. Finally, the chef shaves some Truffle on top to add an earthy fragrance to the dish. Surprisingly the light and delicate taste of the fish does not get masked by the other ingredients and this is testimony to the success of the chef in balancing all the components.

The third course is Seasonal Sashimi Platter 旬の鮮魚, which are served through two dishes. The very fresh Saba has been paired with a bit of Shiso flowers and Tosazuke jelly, giving a bit of sourness to match with the taste of mackerel. At the bottom are some pieces of fig to provide a bit of sweetness to balance the palate. Good in taste. 

The other serving includes Akagai and Sawara. The Ark Shell has a crunchy texture, with each bite releasing the flavours of the sea. The Spanish mackerel has been slightly smoked, with a good sweetness on the flesh, tender and rich in umami. There are different condiments like wasabi and yuzu kosho on the side, but we think the original taste with a bit of shoyu is already wonderful.

The fourth course is 椀物. We witness how the chef has prepared the dashi, using three types of bonito and maguro flakes. Once he is satisfied, he provides us a small cup, to experience the delicate original taste without any additional ingredients. He takes puts in some small matsutake into the dashi, and the aromas and flavours are immediately enriched. Using the dashi to make the soup, it is served with a piece of Shiro-Amadai with a large Matsutake Mushroom. The taste of lightly grilled White Horsehead and surreal elegance of the mushroom, with yuzu peel, carrot and celery present a feast on both appearance and flavours.

The fifth course is 鰻手巻. We can see the Unagi being grilled over charcoal through the glass window looking into the kitchen. The meaty, thick Eel has a crisp surface, brushed with the homemade sauce to infuse with great umami taste, seasoned also with some sansho pepper, which stimulates the palate. The Roll Sushi format allows us to enjoy it easily while holding the grilled eel, at the best temperature and texture.

The sixth course is 鴨炭焼. The Charcoal Grilled French Duck breast is seasoned perfectly, with the breast tender and juicy. It is paired with the famous Kyoto Kujo leek, with the Japanese Leek very fragrant and with a slight sweet taste, along with Kamo Eggplant which has been cooked together with sesame oil, as well as Gingko. This is a great use of the produces from Kyoto and in many ways the main character for this dish is actually the vegetables, not the duck.

The seventh course is 手打ち蕎麦. The Spicy Radish Soba Noodles have an amazing texture, with nice buckwheat flavours. Chef Tomi has added Kuruma Prawn and Maitake Mushroom Tempura, with the prawn head also edible. Very delicious and not feeling any oiliness. As condiment there are some Salmon Roe and mashed radish as well, providing savoury and umami to enhance the soba sauce.

The eighth course is 和え物. It is a special Japanese side dish, mixing vegetables with sauce, a bit like a salad, but aiming to cleanse and refresh the palate. The chef has prepared some Kabu, or Turnip, together with Persimmon, then mix with some soy paste and toasted pine nuts. The delicate taste of the turnip and the elegant flavours of the persimmon complement each other, resulting in good harmony. A very nice dish to transition between the stronger taste tempura to the more delicate conger pike.

The ninth course is 鱧しゃぶ. The Conger Pike is lightly poached in Shabu style, together with some Matsutake Mushroom, which has richer taste than those used in the earlier soup, in a Dashi Broth made with Kombu. The chef has suggested us to first try the Hamo to enjoy the original delicate flavours of the fish, before dipping in the sauce, prepared using the conger pike bones, mixed with shoyu, scallions, ginger, sesame, and mashed turnip, which helps to elevate the umami.

The tenth course is 銀シャリ. The rice is the Highest Quality Koshihikari 越光米 from Minami-Uonuma 南魚沼, very soft and have a nice rice fragrance. The chef is very particular and even the water used to cook the rice is shipped from Japan. To pair with the rice there are some nicely grilled Sanma, with the seasonal Pacific Saury rich in fish oil and very tasty, along with Obanzai, the Traditional Kyoto Side Dish, with at least half of the ingredients must be coming from Kyoto. The pickles are so good that I am tempted to ask the chef to sell some to take home.

Finally, it is Dessert. Chef Tomi has prepared two servings, with the first being Walnut Cake, with the mochi supple and soft, with some crushed walnut scattered on top, and paired with a syrupy soup to give a nice sweetness. The Fruits include peach and two types of grapes, very juicy and sweet, again a good highlight of the quality of the ingredients used.

The bill on the night is $7,498. Service is excellent, with Chef Tomi friendly and eager to share with us in English, with his team also helping to translate when necessary. It is honestly one of the best dinners I have in this year, and I highly recommend this restaurant to fans of Japanese food, especially if you want to experience the authentic, original flavours, and the attention to details that the country is so proud of.

Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Heyday Cuisine 凱日精品粵菜館

My friends know that I love to cook, and have been reading many cookbooks over the years. One of my favourite cookbooks has many details on how to prepare the proper marinade to make traditional Cantonese cuisines, written by Chef Philip Chan. Knowing that he is working for Heyday Cuisine Group now, we come today to their branch on 3/F JD Mall at Jordan to try it out.

The restaurant is of a decent size, and apart from the main dining area there are a number of private rooms on both sides. The décor is decent, with a more contemporary design, but there is still a large fish tank at one corner displaying many lively lobster, garoupa, and other seafood. After settling down at our table, we go through the menu to see what is on offer.

There are many choices, but we come here to try Chef Chan’s specialty, so one of the picks obviously is the char siu. Interestingly, there are two on the menu. After checking with the staff, we go for the leaner 蜜餞一字叉燒 ($168), along with two other dishes 招牌脆趣有米蝦兵蟹將 ($528) and 蟲草花雲耳蒸龍躉球 ($198). The steamed giant garoupa comes first, with the fish fillet seasoned well, and the soy sauce not too salty. Quite good.

When we finish ordering, the manager has shown us the live crab before taking it to the kitchen to prepare the signature deep-fried prawn and crab in crispy rice. The crab is very meaty, with the chef thoughtfully crushed the pincers and legs to make it easy to eat. The crispy rice has absorbed the crab flavours so it is also good in taste. Customers also can determine the number of prawns included ($20 each). Not to be missed for crab lover.

The final one to arrive is the char siu, which is a surprise as generally this will come pretty early. But knowing then that they are freshly roasted, already raised my expectation to another level, and it certainly delivers also. The pork meat is tender and has a small amount of fat, not completely lean, with the honey glaze on the surface a glistering temptation. The taste is so delicious, thanks to the different components of the marinade. One of the best char siu I have for a while.

The staff here are friendly and helpful in answering my questions, offering us the complimentary sweet potato soup for dessert as well. The bill on the night is $1,082. I heard that Chef Chan will make the roasted duck himself and perhaps with a bigger group next time we should try that also, to once again enjoy the magic he weaves in marinating and preparing roasted meat.

Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - The Merchants 嘗申滙

On the National Day holiday and the approach of the hairy crab season, we decide to go out for dinner and have booked this restaurant, which offers Shanghai cuisine. Located on the 45/F of Gloucester Tower in Landmark, we need to first go to the 43/F reception, and then take the elevator inside to reach the restaurant, adjacent to Cristal Room by Anne-Sophie Pic which we visited a few months back.

We are seated at a comfortable cherrywood banquette, just outside the two private rooms at the end of the restaurant. The design here is elegant, with plush carpet, cozy and premium ambience, with large windows on one side looking out to the Victoria Harbour and Central skyline, while on the other side are some embroidered wallpapers handcrafted by artisans.

Originally thinking of ordering the Hairy Crab Journey Menu, we have finally decided to go for the Autumns Treasure Tasting Menu ($1,680 per person) instead, in order to sample more of the restaurant’s signatures, together with some additional hairy crab dishes. The restaurant has thoughtfully printed the menu on the table with my name, in a way to personalize the dinner for us. A clever way to impress the guests.

The first course is The Merchants Selection of Classic Appetizers 嘗申滙經典前菜拼盤, which includes Crystal Pork Terrine Served with Vinegar 水晶肴肉, Tossed Jellyfish with Aged Vinegar 涼拌舟山紅蜇頭, and Braised Wheat Gluten with Black Fungus and Mushrooms 四喜手撕烤麩. All of the appetizers are delicious, with the savoury pork terrine going well with the vinegar, the jellyfish having great crunchy texture, the wheat gluten absorbing the flavours of the sauce and great in taste. The presentation is appealing too. A good start and raising our anticipation of other dishes.

The second course is Yellow Croaker with Vegetable and Bamboo Shoot Soup and Fish Maw 花膠薺菜黃魚羹. The soup is served steaming hot as it will start to get a bit fishy when cooled down. It is super delicious with great umami flavours, spot on in mouthfeel without being too watery or gluey. The yellow croaker meat has been cut into small pieces, along with Shepherd's Purse, bamboo shoots and fish maw, offering a great sense of enjoyment on each spoon. Fantastic.

As my wife loves hairy crab, I have pre-ordered an additional Six-Tael Lake Taihu Hairy Crab 六兩太湖大閘蟹 ($628) for her. The crab is of a good size, with plenty of crab roes. She enjoys it very much. I am not a big fan as it takes a lot of time and effort to get the meat, so I decide to skip.

But instead of just waiting for her to finish the crab, I also order an additional Hairy Crab Roe with Green Bean Noodles 蟹粉粉皮 ($588). With an abundance of crab roes fully covering the green bean noodles on the bottom, the taste is simply phenomenal, with the noodles picking up the crab roes and its intense flavours, plus the vinegar adding extra dimension to the enjoyment. I almost finish the whole serving by myself, it is a must order in my opinion.

Resuming to the menu, the third course is Wok-Fried River Shrimps with Snap Peas 甜豆河蝦仁. The river shrimps have a good sweetness in taste while the snap peas have a great poppy texture, with the two combining to offer delicate, pleasant flavours. The chef has made some vinegar pearls to put in, looking a bit like large caviar, and also in a creative way control the amount of vinegar added by the customer to ensure the taste is per what the chef wants to highlight. Very clever.

The fourth course is Kanto Sea Cucumber and Scallion with Pork Belly in Sweet Soy Sauce 蔥燒關東遼參拌紅燒肉. The pork belly has been braised impeccably, having a melt-in-the-mouth enjoyment, rich and flavourful. The sauce has provided a perfect condiment for the sea cucumber, which has a contrasting bouncy texture, with the scallion providing a nice fragrance to the dish. Very good.

The fifth course is Boneless Baby Yellow Croakers with Spiced Salt 椒鹽無骨小黃魚. Instead of the whole fish, the chef uses only the fillet and then deep-frying to crispness, then adding the spiced salt to season. Not overly salty or spicy, the flavours of the delicate fish fillet are significantly enhanced. A good way to prepare the traditional dish with a modern twist to facilitate customers to enjoy.

Before serving the next course, the staff tells us it is time for the fireworks and take a pause in serving the dish. I ask that they continue, not knowing that the restaurant will switch off the lights completely for customers to better enjoy the show. At the end some of the dishes come during the fireworks but we have difficulty eating in complete darkness. Not the fault of the restaurant, it is a mistake I will not make next time.

During the fireworks comes the sixth course, Braised White Cabbage with Jinhua Ham in Chicken Consomme 上湯腿絲娃娃菜. The clear consommé is light yet highly flavourful, apparently prepared for long hours using chicken and Chinese ham. The cabbage has a nice, sweet taste. Some finely shredded ham on top has added a bit of extra savoury flavours. Really good.

Included in the menu are two hairy crab roe dishes, including Hairy Crab Roe Clay Pot Rice 砂鍋蟹粉飯. As this is also served during the fireworks, we have waited a bit before eating, and frankly it is less enjoyable as a result. I also believe if the rice is drier the whole experience will be even better. Maybe I should return to try this one again.

The other one is Hairy Crab Roe Xiao Long Bao 蟹粉小籠包. With a delicate dough holding the pork and crab roes, the soup comes out on the bite, filling the mouth with wonderful tastes. It is a good dim sum to finish the meal, and I can probably have another couple, not because I was still hungry, but more due to how good they are.

The dessert is Glutinous Pearl in Osmanthus Sweet Soup with Rice Wine 桂花酒釀丸子. The soup is not too sweet, with the fragrant candied osmanthus flowers giving appealing aromas to the chewy glutinous pearls. Nicely done.

To go with the food, I have opened a bottle of M. Chapoutier Chante-Alouette 2018 from Hermitage ($1,530). This is a Marsanne varietal white wine, with a brilliant golden colour, exhibiting delicious quince, honey, ginger, white flowers and walnut aromas. Quite a good match with most of the food on the menu, including the hairy crab roes.

The bill on the night is $6,824. Service is good, with the staff friendly and attentive. On the night the restaurant is fully booked, which is not a surprise given it is a great spot to watch the fireworks, but considering the quality and price it is still a very good option if one wants to enjoy nice Shanghai cuisine in a comfortable and premium setting. Definitely worth returning again.

Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Law of Yogurt 小滿定律

It is already end of September and two weeks after the Mid-Autumn, but the weather is still very hot in Hong Kong. After a short hike at the countryside, we come back to Sai Kung for lunch, and also visit this popular yogurt place, located on Fuk Man Road. With a queue lining up outside, it is difficult to miss it.

The shop is very small, and although there is a table most people will just order take-away. Here they feature frozen Greek yogurt, with a wide variety of toppings and sauces to choose from. I have a cup of yogurt ($58) with mango, strawberry and Marie crumbs, together with the limited edition early grey sauce.

The yogurt is very good, appropriate in sweetness, smooth and appetizing. The fresh fruit chunks provide a bit of different texture and acidity which made the yogurt even more appealing. The earl grey sauce is interesting but get masked by the other ingredients so had faded into the background of flavours.

The yogurt for my wife has the toppings of banana, caramel cashew and sea salt honeycomb with honey sauce ($61). I also try the honeycombs, and they are so crunchy and tasty. It is my recommended topping to choose from.

The total bill is $119, and it is a good dessert at this hot weather, and no wonder there are so many people queueing here. Good that they have also opened a branch in Sai Ying Pun for people living on HK Island there is now another option instead of coming all the way to Sai Kung.

Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Sushi Hisayoshi 鮨 央泰

This Japanese sushi restaurant is located in Harbour City, and my prior visit was in May 2023, hosting a gathering here with some of my best friends who finally able to return to HK after relaxation of covid protocols. We had a great time, enjoying amazing sushi prepared by Chef Tsukasa Kaneko, and the whole restaurant was fully packed with customers.

Returning on this Saturday evening, we are seated at the same spot as last time, but in this occasion we are served by Chef Shibayama from Hokkaido. The décor has not changed, with a comfortable and warm, premium sushiya ambience. There are two menus, and we go for the $2,480 one which has got more courses.

To pair with food, I have also ordered a bottle of sake, Toyobijin 東洋美人 限定純米吟醸 醇道一途 山田錦 ($1,580), from Sumikawa Sake Brewery 澄川酒造 in Yamaguchi. This sake has a nice umami note but quickly dissipates, leaving a clean palate afterwards. It is a versatile sake that matches well with Japanese food, but the mark-up price here is quite high.

The starter includes Deep-Fried Seasonal Lotus Root and Gingko, with the lotus root very crispy. On the side is a bowl of Ikura 筋子 which has been soaked in dashi, dusted with some yuzu shavings to add a refreshing fragrance to the poppy texture of the salmon roes. The other piece is a Zuwa-gani 松葉蟹 Cream Wrap, using a sheet of egg to wrap the snow crab meat and cream cheese together.

The second course features Sanma 秋刀 and Murasaki-Uni 紫雲丹. The chef has wrapped the Pacific saury together with some chives and radish in nori, to provide the rich umami taste with a balancing sweetness of the radish and fragrance of the chives, with a bit of shiso flowers as condiment. The purple sea urchin is also of season, placed on a piece of seaweed to enjoy in one go with some wasabi. Both very delicious.

Then Chef Shibayama shows us the huge tentacles of Tako 章魚, longer than his forearm. Cutting the octopus into bite size pieces, he also adds the suction cups for us, and providing wasabi and yuzu kosho for seasoning. I enjoy more the original taste though. The octopus is very tender and soft, not sure how long the chef needs to massage the muscle to achieve that texture. Nice.

The fourth course is Hokkaido Kegani 毛蟹.The chef has meticulously removed the horsehair crab meat, presented it nicely with the crab meat underneath, with a section of the leg meat on top. A satisfying luxurious treat with the delicate sweet crab meat very flavourful, with some tosazu 土佐酢 made to jelly format, to complement with the crab.

Starting with the first piece of sushi, Hirame 平目 is olive flounder, with this piece having a firm texture, mild and delicate taste. Very good.

The second sushi is Kinmedai 金目鯛, with the chef using charcoal to lightly sear the skin of the splendid alfonsino, vitalizing the fish oil and make the sushi more fragrant and rich in umami taste. Very good also.

The third sushi is Hokkigai 北寄貝, and again the chef has used charcoal to lightly sear the middle part of the surf clam to release a sweet taste, using some sea salt to season. The nice crunch on the bite is satisfying as well.  

The fifth course is Ama-Ebi 甘海老 Chawanmushi 茶碗蒸, adding the sweet shrimp and shrimp miso to steam with the egg custard. The silky-smooth egg, together with the rich taste from the orange brown shrimp miso, is enjoyable.

The sixth course features Buri 鰤. The matured Japanese yellowtail has been smoked on hay, then adding some onion and myoga, and season with a bit of shoyu. The deep flavours and rich fish oil make this memorable.

Returning to the sushi, the fourth piece is Kuruma-Ebi 車海老, with the tiger prawn coming from Kagoshima. The prawn is poached and served slightly warm, with its firm texture, rich sweet taste full of umami. Another wonderful sushi.

The seventh course features Shirako 白子. The cod milt has been grilled and then garnish with some chives. It is a bit cooled down and probably would be more ideal serving it while still hot in temperature, and the taste is also quite bland. A slight disappointment.

The fifth piece of sushi is Nodoguro 喉黒, with the blackthroat seaperch famed for its rich fish oil. After it has been grilled briefly on charcoal, the chef prepares the sushi but instead of serving it direct to us, he thoughtfully uses a nori sheet to hold it, avoid spoiling our fingers with fish oil picking up the sushi. The rich sweet taste in fat is highly enjoyable.

The eighth course is Ezo-Awabi 蝦夷鮑 from Hokkaido. The prized abalone is cut into thick slices, paired with a paste made from the abalone liver. With each bite the umami taste seeps through the teeth, but it is a bit too firm on the bite, and perhaps need a bit longer time to steam. Still good.

The sixth sushi is Chu-Toro 中とろ. The maguro is caught near Oma in Aomori, with this medium fatty cut having intense flavours, tender and soft in texture. Very good.

The seventh sushi is Bafun-Uni Gunkan 馬糞雲丹, with the chef serving us an extra layer of the creamy and sweet sea urchin from Hokkaido. Nice and delicious.

The ninth course features Taichio 太刀魚. The chef has used yuzu sauce to brush on the skin of the largehead hairtail while grilling it, to give a refreshing citrus note to the sweet and tasty meat. Very good indeed.

The last piece of sushi is Anago 穴子, with the conger eel very soft and have a melt-in-the-mouth texture, with the homemade thick sauce delicious and not too sweet or salty. With a bit of sansho powder to season, it is very satisfying.

The Tamago 玉子焼 is made in traditional edomae style. The egg omelette is made from a mixture of egg, white fish, shrimp, yam, and sugar without adding any flour. It has a fluffy texture and reminds us of spongy cake. Very good.

The Red Miso Soup provides a comfortable closure to the dinner, offering warmth to the stomach to complete a wonderful meal.

The dessert has two types of grapes, including the famous Shine Muscat from Okayama and Pione from Yamagata. Both the grapes are very sweet, with their unique flavours. On the side is the Wine Jelly which is palate cleansing.

Service is good, with the staff attentive and helpful to introduce the dishes. Even though the chef does not converse with us that much throughout the meal, is welcoming. The bill on the night is $7,194 and overall, I would rate this sushiya as good, but somehow has not got the same energy and amazing taste in my memories. Maybe it has to do with the much slower business nowadays, as we sadly see there are only 6 customers in this evening.