Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Osteria Marzia

It’s almost five years since my office has moved from Wanchai to Kwun Tong, and there are so many changes it is just like another life. One thing I missed is the different restaurants I get to visit during lunch. Back then I can walk to Wanchai and Causeway Bay, with plenty of options in a vibrant dining scene. Osteria Marzia was still fairly new then, and I had visited a few times with my colleagues for lunch, where I recalled the food was quite decent.

On this Tuesday evening, I finally return again to this Italian restaurant at The Fleming. In contrast to the bright streetlight outside looking out through the windows, its warm yellowish spherical lighting and wooden floor helps to create a relaxing and cozy ambience, with the high ceiling creating space and a sense of comfort.

The restaurant has been focusing on seafood, and it is still the theme today. To pair, I have ordered a bottle of Umani Ronchi Plenio Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Classico Riserva 2020 ($828). The wine has a nice creaminess, probably due to the 12-month ageing process with lees, with also rich lemony citrus and herbal notes, plus good minerality. I am happy with my choice as the wine goes well with all the food we picked.

The bread is some decent Scarbough Toast, but the highlight to me is definitely the serving of anchovies in addition to the traditional butter. A generous condiment, the salted fish has a rich taste and together with a bit of butter on the toast it is a wonderful treat. I cannot stop eating and finishes all the pieces quickly.

We decide to have a starter and a salad to begin. The first one is Tartare di Gamberi Rossi ($228). The Puglia red prawn has been minced, with a sweet and soft texture. Sandwiched in between there are some Sorrento lemon and almonds, to give some appetizing acidity. Finally, the chef has put some grated Sardinian bottarga on top, with the salted mullet roes giving a nice umami taste to the dish. A nice starter.

The salad is Panzanella ($178), which contains some fresh Roma heirloom tomato with a good balance of sweetness and acidity, together with pickled onion, mint, and croutons. Refreshing and healthy, I like how the small amount of mint has helped to give fragrance while not overpowering the more delicate flavours of the other ingredients, and the large crunchy croutons provided a contrast in texture. Another nice one.

Next, we have a pasta, picking Linguine alle Vongole ($198). The linguine has a fantastic bite, al dente as per our request. The Hokkaido Asari clams are fresh and umami in taste, with the sauce full of the seafood flavours. Scattered with some chopped parsley on top, I in particular like the chili added as it helps to stimulate the palate. Delicious.

For the main course, we have picked Ma Yau alla Griglia ($328). This local fish is famous for its flavours and the chef has grilled the fillet to a beautiful crispness on the skin, with the flesh remaining moist. The trick shared by the chef is to use a special type of paper to wrap the fish beforehand, totally extracting the moisture from the skin before grilling. It is just wonderful in taste, seasoned spot-on also. Underneath there are some roasted red and yellow bell peppers and Tropea onion that had been cooked with tomato sauce, a great complement in taste and acidity to the fish.

The other main course is Amadai ($288). While the taste cannot compare with Ma Yau, the chef has adopted the Japanese cooking technique to pour hot oil on the scales to make it stand, crispy and edible. The sauce is made from saffron broth, adding Sicilian Datterino tomato confit, Sicilian oregano, and parsley oil. Complex and delicious. It is difficult to compare the two, but I would probably vote for Ma Yau among the mains we have on the night.

For dessert, my wife has Freshly Churned Gelato ($118), with the vanilla gelato appropriate in sweetness, soft on texture, with a bit of strawberry sauce and some candied cherries on top. Simple but nice. My choice is Cannolo Siciliano ($58), with the famous pastry from Sicily essentially a tube-shaped deep-fried dough, filled with ricotta, chocolate chips, cinnamon, and some candied orange. Another nice dessert overall.

Service is good, with the staff friendly and taking the time to introduce the whole menu at the beginning. The chef also comes to our table to check out how we like the food and talk to us. The bill on the night is $2,662, reasonable in price as well. If you want seafood, and if you want Italian, this restaurant is a good one to consider.

Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Nobu Hong Kong

We have visited this restaurant back in 2018, before the hotel has closed down for renovation and returning to its former name. Today, knowing that their famous owner Chef Nobu Matsuhisa has come to HK and will be in the restaurant, we return to try out his fancy in this new space, looking for the surprises he has in weaving South American flavours into traditional Japanese cuisine.

Arriving at Regent Hong Kong, we come to the restaurant, located on the 2/F. The staff greets us warmly and shows us to our table, a comfortable banquette with the amazing night view of Victoria Harbour as backdrop. There are seats at the sushi counter on one side, but unless you are dying for conversation with the chef, there is not much reason to take those. The décor is neat but quite simplistic, more akin to a casual diner.

There is a special menu on the day, Nobu in Town Omakase Menu ($1,888). To pair with the food, I have ordered a bottle of Nobu Daiginjo YK-35 ($1,580) also. This house sake is served in all the Nobu restaurants in the world, smooth and with a good rice flavours. Versatile.

The first course is Sawara Pico de Gallo 鰆魚配番茄洋蔥莎莎. A very good example of the Peruvian influence, the chef has mixed an appetizing salsa, with tomato, onion, some finely chopped green and red bell peppers, coriander, with plenty of lime juice. The acidity is balanced with some sweet mango pieces. The Japanese Spanish mackerel has been torched briefly on the skin to give a bit of smokiness, while the flesh is still raw and soft. Highly appetizing and very delicious.

The second course is Nobu Style Sashimi – Yonten Mori 新派刺身 四點盛. The four sashimi includes the crunchy Tsubugai, with the chef adding a bit of dashi jelly as condiment to give richer umami flavours; the soft Kinmedai with some shredded pickled daikon on the side; an avocado nori taco, with some Uni on top; and the last one being a spicy Toro tartare with some caviar on top. Very different from what you would experience in Japanese restaurants, however the assortment and combination do not feel awkward, with the flavours a good match in fact.

The third course is Omakase Sushi Selection with Awabi Clear Soup 特選壽司配鮑魚清湯. The four sushi includes Maguro, Hirame, Aji, and Ikura. Though cannot compare with the sushi restaurants we frequently visit, they are not bad, with the ingredients fresh and the shari of good texture and appropriate sourness. There is a abalone clear soup on the side to help warm up the stomach, delicate yet flavourful. Still this is the dish I don’t think I will miss.

The fourth course is Seared Scallop Pear Salad Yuzu Dry Miso 帆立貝沙律配日本梨乾味噌. Sandwiched between are pieces of juicy and sweet pear, with the light taste helping to showcase the delicate scallops. With some dry miso and Parmesan cheese to complement with its savoury taste, and some deep-fried burdock shreds to give a contrast in texture, this is a creative dish but the stronger flavours of the miso and cheese has masked the scallops significantly. 

The fifth course is Lobster with Creamy Spicy Shiso Salsa 龍蝦配香辣忌廉紫蘇莎莎. My favourite dish in the evening, the lobster is grilled together with a very delicious and creamy spicy shiso salsa, with good acidity, nice spiciness that excite but not burn the palate, and the fragrance of the shiso permeating throughout. The lobster is very fresh, with firm and bouncy meat, and the sweetness is integrating well with the sauce, complementing each other. Though not exactly look like a typical Japanese dish, it is a must try.

The sixth course is A5 Wagyu Matsutake with Seasonal Mushroom Teriyaki Sauce A5和牛配松茸 時令蘑菇照燒汁. The Miyazaki beef has been cut into relatively thin slices, grilled perfectly with caramelized surface while juicy and pinkish on the inside, seasoned well. The teriyaki sauce is appealing, with good umami and sweetness, and the seasonal matsutake mushroom is also impeccable in quality. Another nice dish.

The seventh and final course is Yuzu Parfait with Shiso Lychee Sorbet 士多啤梨柚子芭菲配紫蘇荔枝雪葩. With plenty of fresh, sweet strawberries inside the white chocolate wrap, the parfait is sitting on a strawberry sauce while on top there is also a shiso lychee sorbet, with a refreshing touch of the herbal and fruit characters. A nice finale, with everything just right on sweetness so not feeling guilty or too indulgent at the end.

Service is good, and Chef Nobu has been walking around the restaurant to greet the customers and take photos. The bill on the night is $5,991 and while it is quite expensive, considering the opportunity to meet up with the legendary chef it is worth coming. For the food and experience, they are just different, and you should not compare with those traditional Japanese restaurants.

Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Cuisine Cuisine 國金軒

This high-end Cantonese restaurant has two branches, one in The Mira Hong Kong and one in IFC. Having visited a few years back with good memories on the quality of its food, on this Wednesday evening, we return again to TST, to explore whether they continue to keep up its quality and any new experience in offer.

The main dining area is spacious, neatly decorated with an upscale and contemporary design, featuring emerald colour in the chairs and carpet, with dark mahogany walls and the smart use of mirrors to increase the feeling of a high ceiling. We are seated at a circular banquette table on the side.

Instead of the set menu, we decide to go for a la carte, starting with Honey-glazed Barbecued Pork 蜜餞本地黑豚叉燒 ($178 half portion). Specially requested for leaner cut, the BBQ pork does not have much fat but is still juicy and tender. Roasted with a nice char on the edges, glistering on the surface from the honey, the meat is marinated well with a deep flavour. Quite nice.

Then we have for each of us a Deep-fried Crab Claw, Scallop, Minced Shrimp, Pear 梨香百花松葉蟹鉗 ($276 for two). The price should already give a hint that the crab claw is small, but the minced shrimp is at least tasty, with good bouncy texture. There are some scallops mixed with the shrimp meat to add a bit more sweetness, paired with a sweet and sour sauce, with a slice of pear at the bottom. Decent only.

Another appetizer we order is Pan-fried Frog Legs, Premium Light Soy Sauce 本地頭抽煎田雞腿 ($198). The frog legs are quite big and very meaty, pan-fried beautifully to golden brown colour, very good in taste. I cannot stop eating and even want to order another one because of how good it is. Definitely my favourite dish in the evening.

Then we have soups, with each of us ordering our own choice. My wife has picked Double-boiled Pork Lung Soup, Fish Maw, Snow Lotus Seed, Fresh Almond Cream 鮮杏汁花膠雪蓮子燉白肺湯 ($328). Having a very rich almond note, the soup is thick from the fish maw and very delicious, with the pork lung cleaned thoroughly and without any weird taste. The better of the two soups.

My choice is Hot and Sour Soup, Matsuba Crab Meat, Mushroom, Egg White 松葉蟹玉子酸辣羹 ($248). The chef has made a special touch in putting some egg white to the soup, making it smoother on the palate. The soup is certainly spicy, making me sweat profusely. The taste is quite nice but perhaps will not be suitable unless you are a big spicy fan.

The main course is Sauteed Spotted Garoupa Fillet, Morel Mushroom, Dried Flounder Fish, Honey-glazed Yunnan Ham 甫魚蜜餞雲腿羊肚菌炒東星斑球 ($568). On one side of the dish are some sliced Chinese ham that has a good balance of sweet and saltiness, steamed well so that they are not hard and easy to chew. The garoupa fillet is nicely sauteed, tender and moist, with some morel mushroom and asparagus. The dried flounder adds umami and also bridges the flavours of the ham and fish. A creative combination with good effect. Very nice.

For dessert, I have Chilled Mango Pudding, Champagne Gelee, Pomelo, Sago, Coconut Juice 香檳啫喱芒果布甸配椰汁柚子西米露 ($108). A fancy presentation, the pudding is placed on a glass bowl with dried ice, with mist continually seeping out in a surreal manner. Each of the component is nice, and the combination of the different texture of pudding, jelly and sago being the highlight.

My wife has the more traditional dessert of Sweetened Almond Cream, Egg White, Sesame Dumpling 生磨蛋白杏仁茶湯丸 ($78). A good serving of rich almond cream, not too sweet, with the dumpling chewy and delicious. Another good dessert.

The service is decent, with the staff attentive and courteous, and I appreciate they remind us about a credit card discount so that we can enjoy a 15% off, with the bill on the night being $1,949 which is reasonable. A good spot to enjoy some nice Chinese food in a comfortable setting, and they still deliver to my memory of good quality, with some innovative dishes as well.

Wineshark Weekend Cooking - Eggplant and Intestine Pot 茄腸煲

Ingredients (for 4):

• Pork intestine - 180g
• Eggplant - 250g
• Pickled vegetables - 20g
• Water - 200ml
• Dried shrimp - 10g
• Ginger - 15g
• Garlic - 20g
• Red chili - 10g
• Chinese leek - 40g
• Basil - 20g
• Rice vinegar - 1 tbsp + 1/2 tsp
• Rice wine - 2 tbsp
• Spicy bean paste - 2 tbsp
• Soy sauce - 2 tbsp
• Sugar - 2 tbsp
• White pepper powder - 1/2 tsp
• Tapioca starch - 1 tbsp

Procedures:

1. Put water into the pot to fully submerge the pork intestine, and then add 1 tbsp of rice vinegar. Heat to boiling and then cook for 10 minutes. 

2. Rinse and then cut into sections.

3. Cut the eggplant into chunks, then soak in water added with 1/2 tsp of rice vinegar to prevent it turning black.

4. Soak the dried shrimp in rice wine for 5 minutes, then drip dry.

5. Cut the pickled vegetables into sections. 

6. Cut the Chinese leek into sections, cut the ginger into slices, and cut the red chili into small pieces.

7. Mash the garlic into small pieces.

8. Heat the pot with oil, and when reaches 170 degree Celsius, add the eggplant in to deep fry for 30 seconds.

9. Remove and drip off the excess oil.

10. Pick the leaves from the basil for later use.

11. Mix spicy bean paste, soy sauce, sugar and white pepper powder together.

12. Heat the pot with a bit of oil, and then add in the dried shrimps to stir fry briefly.

13. Add in the ginger. Continue to stir fry.

14. Add in the mashed garlic and red chili. 

15. Add the mixed seasoning in. Stir well.

16. Add in the pork intestines. Mix well to ensure each piece is turning colour and absorbing the flavours.

17. Add in the eggplant and pickled vegetables, continue to cook.

18. Add 200ml of water in. 

19. When the sauce is boiling again, add in the Chinese leek. Stir well.

20. Prepare the tapioca starch and add in 1 tbsp of water. Then slowly pour in the pot to thicken the sauce.

21. Add basil into the pot. Mix well, turn off the heat, and serve.