Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Jee 志

This contemporary Chinese restaurant is located on Lyndhurst Terrace in Central and is a new concept by Chef Siu Hin-Chi of Ying Jee Club and Chef Oliver Li, incorporating classic Cantonese cuisines with a modern twist and flair of Western style presentation, plus the integration of different cooking techniques, to create a futuristic Cantonese cuisine.

Arriving there on a Saturday evening, we both immediately like its warmth ambience, with the white and shamrock green color walls having some 3D photos depicting the neighborhood, which is a nice touch of bringing a sense of belonging for customers and also tying traditional cuisine and local ingredients in a refined dining experience.

There is one menu with the option of choosing either 8 or 10 courses ($1,088 each). We choose the later one as well as the 4-glass wine pairing ($488). But to start I also have an additional glass of Gosset Cuvee Extra Brut NV ($208) as aperitif. The Champagne has lemon, green apple, and almond on the nose, with nice bread dough and yeast in the background.

The first course is a trio of appetizers 「志」趣三小碟, with the first one being Century Egg Macaron 鴛鴦皮蛋塔. The concept comes from the traditional appetizer, with the chef putting some diced century egg and pickled ginger on a macaron, adding some apple vinegar jelly on top. Highly appetizing, it gives us a good idea how the chef has re-imagined the classic cuisine in a new manner.

The second appetizer is Guifei Clam Soup with Dried Flounder 方魚貴妃蚌. The clear soup is delicate yet having wonderful umami taste, served in a small bowl to make sure it is not too filling. On the side is the third appetizer, Marinated Foie Gras with Dough Fritter 鵝肝油炸鬼. The mini dough fritter has a crunchy texture, with the foie gras as the dipping sauce offering a nice savoury enjoyment.

The first wine pairing is Yangarra Roux Beaute Roussanne 2016 from McLaren Vale in Australia. This 100% Roussanne wine is fermented and aged in ceramic egg, with a higher acidity and good minerality. There is a sweet minty spiciness, with nice fruity melon and floral of honeysuckle. Rich and robust.

The second course is Soft Shell Turtle Jelly with Caviar 高湯甲魚凍. The supreme broth has been made into a jelly format, surrounding a mix of the meat and soft tissue on the skirt of the soft-shell turtle, highlighting the two different textures. With some caviar on top to up-level the premium of the dish and provides a nice savory complement to the turtle meat, each scoop combines the different components wonderfully. It is a bit exotic from its name, however the taste is fantastic.

The second wine pairing features The Starting Point Riesling 2019. The winery is one of the pioneers of China’s wine industry in Ningxia, with this one showing a clean lemon citrusy and white flowers notes, a bit of dried apricot plus plenty of chalky minerality and hints of development in petrol characters. Crisp and refreshing, a very approachable and aromatic Riesling balancing well with deep-fried dishes.

The third course is French Toast with Crab Meat and Chili 鮮蟹肉多士. On the French toast the chef has brushed with some Patchun sweet vinegar, then putting a thick layer of crab meat which has been cooked with XO sauce to give a bit of spiciness. On top are some finely chopped spring onion, as well as some crackers in the shape of tiny crabs. While may not exactly replicating the flavors of typhoon shelter stir-fried crabs, it is a delicious starter.

The fourth course is Chicken Wing stuffed with Sea Whelk 花螺釀鳳翼. The bone inside the chicken wing has been removed where the chef has stuffed with some local sea whelk, which are cooked with a French style, with butter and herbs like rosemary and thyme. The chicken wing is then deep-fried using the traditional method of pouring hot oil repeatedly on the skin, making the skin crispy while the meat still juicy. The sea whelk has a good bite and we both like this dish very much.

The third wine pairing features a Chinese yellow wine 冬趣 2007. This is a special vintage huangjiu which was made in winter, without adding any caramel colouring in the fermentation process and all manually made, releasing to market after ten years of cellaring. The wine has a fragrant aged mandarin peel, honey and cedar notes, and gradually seeping out nutty and sweetness at the aftertaste.

The fifth course is Fried Garoupa with Trio Scallion 三蔥爆斑球. At the bottom is a puree made from scallion and leek, then there is a thick garoupa fillet that has been pan-fried together with spring onion and ginger, finishing with a sabayon made from French Jura wine on top. The fish is well-seasoned, with the deep fragrance from the puree giving freshness to the fish, while the sabayon offers fantastic complement of flavors with the huangjiu paired.

The sixth course is Roasted Lobster in Sweet Spicy Sauce 麻辣煎龍蝦. Beautifully plated, the lobster has been baked with a sweet and spicy sauce, highly appetizing and there are also some cherry tomatoes underneath to provide acidity to balance. With some finely diced green bell pepper and edible flowers to decorate, it is both flavorful and pleasant on the appearance, satisfying on both visual and taste.

The fourth wine pairing is Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso 2022, made from 98% Nerello Mascalese and 2% Nerello Cappuccio, both local varieties in Sicily. This red wine exhibits a rich ripe fresh red fruit and sweet spices, with good acidity, and the palate showing some earthiness, as well as development and savory characters. Good match with the chicken in particular.

The seventh course is Crispy Sea Cucumber with Shrimp Mousse in Lobster Sauce 百花釀海參. The chef has minced the tiger prawn to make a patty and stuff into a thorny sea cucumber, which offers a firmer texture on the bite, before dep-frying with a batter made with squid ink. The crunchy surface, bouncy sea cucumber and shrimp mousse is simply fantastic. There is also lobster sauce underneath to offer rich flavors to complement. One of my favorites among the dish on the night.

The eighth course is Crispy Silky Fowl with Moutai Sauce 茅台竹絲雞. The silky fowl is prepared using the traditional method similar to crispy chicken, but has also added some Chinese sausages in. The chef has carved out the breast and thigh separately to serve in a Western presentation. The sauce is made with the chicken jus and Moutai, while there is also a Chinese Angelica jelly on the side, with strong flavors and the medicinal taste is surprisingly matching with the fowl.

An additional course that is not on the menu is the anchor for Chinese cuisine, rice. But instead of fried rice, the chef has used the pasta orzo, adding plenty of spring onion, small fish, small shrimps and egg to prepare, with a softer texture than rice but having more those slightly burnt pieces at the bottom. With the concept coming from salted fish and chicken fried rice, this one delivers high marks on its great taste, with the interesting texture memorable. A must try.

Coming to the dessert, the ninth course is Lychee Pudding with Osmanthus 荔枝桂花糕. Made to resemble a large hakou, with the filling made using lychee puree and agar powder. The dressing is an osmanthus sauce, with a delicate and not too sweet taste, serving as a fun and delicious pre-dessert to cleanse and refresh the palate before going for the main dessert in the final course.

The last course is Birds Nest with Fresh Almond 鮮杏仁燕窩. The traditional dessert has been reincarnated in a contemporary, Western style, with the bird’s nest placed at the bottom of the plate, with an almond jelly and tofu ice-cream on top. The sauce is made from soymilk and rich in flavors, with some crisps to give a bit of contrast in texture. A very successful modern edition of the traditional dessert.

The Petit Four include a Gaizai Cracker that has been made to look like a small chick, with a custard lotus paste filling that is appropriate in sweetness. A happy ending to a wonderful meal, where the food is delicious and creative, bringing in pleasant surprises in many ways. Service is also good, with the staff attentive and friendly. The bill on the night is $3,384. A great concept that has executed well, this is a great example of reinterpreting traditional Cantonese cuisine.

Wineshark Weekend Cooking - Cold Fish Chaozhou Style 潮式凍魚

Ingredients (for 4):

• Big eye - 1
• Salt - 1 tbsp
• White pepper powder - 1/2 tsp
• Chinese yellow wine - 1 tbsp
• Puning bean sauce - 2 tbsp
• White rice vinegar - 2 tbsp

Procedures:

1. Keep the scales on the fish, and clean the fish inside out. Make sure to remove the membrane in the stomach. 

2. Marinate the fish with salt and white pepper powder on both sides as well as inside. Keep for one hour.

3. Mix the Punning bean sauce with white rice vinegar.

4. Brush the Chinese yellow wine on both sides and continue to marinate for another hour.

5. Steam the fish for 10 minutes until fully cooked. 

6. Remove the water in the dish, and let the fish cools down. Then remove the skin and serve with the bean sauce.

 

Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - The Krug Room

Located in Mandarin Oriental, The Krug Room is the only remaining Krug Room in the world, operated in partnership with Champagne House Krug. It is well-hidden and we need to first approach the Mandarin Grill & Bar, before the manager shows us, going through The Chinnery and a door leading into the back of house, before coming to this ‘secret’ restaurant.  

The restaurant is an exclusive and private space, designed to resemble a luxurious train carriage with windows on one side looking out to the busy kitchen. In the middle of the room is a large communal table able to accommodate eight diners. On one end there are several wine cabinets displaying bottles of Krug, including the rare Clos d’Ambonnay and Clos du Mesnil, as well as some older vintages, which are also available for sale.

The tasting menu ($3,988), though looks expensive, includes a pairing of 4 glasses of Krug. Designed by Executive Chef Robin Zavou, the courses not only aim to present a good sensory complement with the champagnes, they are also made using seasonal ingredients with an emphasis on responsible sourcing, using local produces as much as possible.

While waiting for the other diners to arrive, we are served a glass of Krug Grande Cuvee 172eme Edition to start as aperitif. The champagne is refreshing and smooth, with six years of bottle fermentation, so the bubbles are elegant, consistent and fine, with a nice toasty and yeasty flavours on top of nice white flowers, almond and citrus fruit, along with some grassy notes. Very pleasant.

There are a couple of starters in the menu. The first one is Cone, with a creamy filling of homemade  Koji paste inside, some Hokkaido Uni in the middle, and topped with Shiso and edible flowers. The sea urchin has a nice sweetness and rich in umami. A nice appetizer.

The second starter is Garden. The chef uses Tofu and Miso to make a paste for dipping, crumbling some rye bread to scatter on top to resemble earth in the garden, with some very fresh Radish on top. The two types of radishes include the white Japanese mini-turnip, sweeter in taste while the American radish has a reddish skin and crunchier in texture. The leaves can also be eaten, with a slight bitter taste. Another wonderful appetizer.

The third course is Flower. Inside the Zucchini flower the chef has stuffed two different Ebi delicacies, including minced Spanish carabineros and lobster mousse, with a touch of Zest from yuzu to give freshness to balance the rich and intense taste.  On the side are three sauces, the black one is homemade scallop reduction which has intense umami flavours. The red-coloured sauce is made from roasting the red prawn heads, grinding them to extract the essences, before cooking with butter. The remaining is the light shoyu sauce which bring forward the umami of the prawn and lobster. Truly memorable.

The fourth course is Krug. The raw Australian spiny Lobster meat has been marinated in Krug for 3-4 minutes, very much like a ceviche, with the citrus notes coming from the champagne. The dish finishes with some Kohlrabi puree and homemade miso. On top are some jelly sheets made from soy, sake and mirin, plus Caviar and fresh coriander, fennel, shiso flowers and dill flowers. These aromatic herbs go well with the champagne, with ponzu as dressing. Amazing.

The second glass of champagne is Krug Vintage 2011. This has a comparatively more intense aromas and flavours, with more oaky and fruity notes, probably coming from the higher proportion of Pinot Noir in the blend, and the hot weather of the year. It is offered after a cellaring of 13 years, with a deep elegance and finesse, a bit like enjoying a really nice white wine.

The fifth course is Ocean. Using the best catch of the day, the chef features kinmedai and awabi from Japan. After steaming the splendid alfonsino, he added a bit of grated bottarga on top to add savoury and umami flavours. Under the fish there is the Abalone, which has been braised beautifully to great tenderness, paired with a sauce made from the liver of the abalone. The dish finishes with some Pickled Mooli and lemon juice to give a bit of citrus and acidity to balance. Wonderful.

The sixth course is Forest. There is a layer of white foam, under which are the Escargot which have good bites, together with some Nettle, offering a bit of fresh cucumber taste with a bit of acidity. To highlight the fall season the chef has shaved some Truffle on top, with the nice earthy aromas integrating everything well. Taking a scoop which includes all the components is a rewarding experience.

The third glass of champagne is Krug Rose 27eme Edition, with the base wines coming from vintages from 2015 all the way to 2005, with also 10% traditionally macerated Pinot Noir, spending around seven years in cellar before release. The wine has rose buds and a bit of savoury notes on top of redcurrant and grapefruit, with a feeling like drinking red wine. Perfect to pair with the main courses.

The seventh course is Farm I, with the chef making a folded cabbage Taco, and on the inside are some braised Pigeon meats, tender from the slow-cooked process, with nice smoky BBQ flavours. On top of the taco is the crispy kale, and there are four sauces to go with the pigeon, including hoisin, BBQ, mushroom ketchup, and black garlic. A fusion dish where we see a lot of the elements showcasing the Chinese dish pigeon cabbage wrap. Interesting and delicious.

The eighth course is Farm II. Featuring the A4 deep-fried wagyu beef from Kagoshima. It has a crispy surface, while still keeping the inside medium rare and tender. The beef is not too fatty, having a rich flavour, seasoned well with a bit of black pepper. Paired with some Smoke Trout Roes and Mexican Mole sauce, the chef also has a mini turnip on the side to balance with its delicate crunchy freshness. Very good as well.

The fourth and last champagne returns back to Krug Grande Cuvee 172eme Edition, in order to take advantage of the freshness, floral and citrusy taste to match with the desserts. To transition, the palate cleansing Vert is served, featuring Golden Kiwi and Shiso sorbet, with kiwi and lime caviar at the bottom. The foam on top is made using Aloe Vera with shiso. Very refreshing.

The tenth course is Autumn. Very beautifully presented like a flower, with the centrepiece being a Walnut ice-cream, and surrounded by thin wafer with a touch of Cinnamon. At the bottom there are Pear jus made from reduction of the juice, plus two types of pear preparation, one cooked and one infused with syrup. Great in taste and not too sweet.

The petit four features Cocoa. Creatively presented on a log of wood, there are several thin sheets of Chocolate of five different Flavours, including yuzu, matcha, raspberry, salted caramel, and sesame. The crunchy Textures are appealing and a good complement with the coffee, finishing the meal with a great sense of satisfaction.

Service is very good, with the staff friendly and attentive, and apparently, I also get the opportunity to connect with my friend who works in The Chinnery as well. The bill on the night is $8,882 and while this may look dauntingly expensive, consider the four glasses of Krug and the food itself it is actually reasonable. If you are a champagne lover, this secret restaurant is one you should not miss.

Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Lau Sum Kee Noodles 劉森記麵家

This noodles eatery is located in Shum Shui Po with two outlets, one in Fuk Wing Street and the original shop at Kweilin Street. It has been a popular place for both locals and tourists. Now managed by the third generation, they still insist to prepare their own noodles by the traditional method of kneading the dough by sitting on a bamboo pole and jumping up and down.

Arriving to the Fuk Wing Street branch on a Sunday afternoon there is already a queue outside. But without waiting too long we can get our seats. Here everyone will share table, and I guess around one-third is tourists from mainland China, but I also hear there are some visitors from Singapore too.

We order the Dried Shrimp Roes Stirred Noodles with Beef Brisket and Tendon 蝦子牛腩牛筋撈麵 ($46). There are plenty of dried shrimp roes scattered on top of the noodles, with the beef brisket and tendon very tender and soft, with deep flavours. However, the highlight is definitely the noodles, with a good chewy and bouncy texture, but not tough on the bite. It is fantastic, and no wonder is their signature, and I applaud the owner continues to stand firm to make these noodles in the traditional way.

I also order Dumpling with Soup 招牌淨水餃 ($34). The dumplings are fairly big in size, freshly made daily as we see a staff busy doing that on the side. The dough is thin and soft, with the pork and shrimp fillings seasoned well and very delicious. Together with the tasty broth prepared, it is another must-order in my opinion.

With a couple of soft drinks, the total bill on the day is $150, very reasonably priced. While the décor or service is ordinary, this is in many ways a gem that we should continue to treasure and nourish in Hong Kong, especially the craft of the bamboo pole kneading.