This restaurant is located on 16/F
Cubus at Causeway Bay, a collaboration from two chefs Donovan Cooke and Scott
Pickett. Previously known just as Donovan, the restaurant was closed for four
months when Chef Donovan returned to Australia for a surgery and recovery. I
was glad to see him return to HK and restart this business since April.
Stepping out from the escalator one would
see the wine cellars with a wide selection, and the staff leads us to the main
dining room, able to accommodate around 30 guests. Seated at a booth, the whole
ambience offers an intimate and cozy vibe, with warm lighting, comfy banquette,
plenty of wood and brass in the furniture and decors.
The Tasting Menu is $988 per person, and I
also open a bottle of Marc Colin St-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly 2021 ($1,280). The
wine has nice citrus and green apple notes, with good acidity and a refreshing
palate of minerality. A straightforward wine of finesse, it is best to serve
slightly chilled but not too cold, to allow more aromas to blossom.
The Amuse Bouche contains three bite-sized
snacks. The first one is a Puff with Smoked Eel, with pomelo on top. The creamy
filling inside the crunchy puff, together with the fragrant smoked eel, is
enticing, with the pomelo giving a bit of sweetness.
The second one is Shell stuffed with Diced Trout
and Fennel, together with cream, dill and salmon roes. The perfect combination
of trout and dill create wonders on taste, with the poppy salmon roe adding
umami to this nicely done starter.
The third is Chicken Liver Pate that is
spherical in shape, coated with a glaze to resemble blackcurrant, and providing
some acidity plus sweetness to balance the rich and indulgent liver pate.
Served on a crispy chicken skin, it is a thoughtful presentation, not only
pretty but also facilitates in picking up. More importantly, it is also
delicious.
The meal officially starts with Tsukuji
Kanisho. The delicate Japanese king crab meat is mixed with Iberico ham, tomato
and basil, before pouring in a tomato and vegetable consommé. On top is a tomato
sorbet, sprinkled with some dehydrated black olives. A refreshing cold dish
with lots of flavors, and nice appetizing acidity to start.
The second course is Hokkaido Uni
Chawanmushi. Under the silky-smooth egg custard are some Hokkaido sea urchin
which are nice in taste, as well as pickled cucumber for a contrast in texture.
On top, apart from the crunchy razor clam with nice umami taste, the chef has
prepared a caviar and clam sauce with dill oil which are truly amazing in flavours.
The bread served is one of the highlights
on this meal. With a crunchy crust having a nice brown sugar caramelization, the
brioche has a mild miso flavor embedded. Either on its own or paired with French
butter infused with seaweed, it is very good.
The third course features local Scallop seared
beautifully while keeping the inside moist and soft. With some diced celeriac
and apple to give a crunchy contrast, the sauce is made from the skirt of the
scallop to provide umami flavors. Together with pepper and celeriac puree, and
a bit of vanilla seeds, the black truffle shaves further adds to the rich
taste.
The fourth course is King Salmon, which has
been slow cooked in olive oil, very tender and flavorful. On the side are some
diced zucchini and tomato, plus the small but very sweet and delicious Bouchot
mussels. The sauce is a blend of saffron and basil oil, and everything is
harmonized in taste and super tasty. One of my favorites tonight.
The fifth and additional course features Spanish
Carabinero (supplement $180 each). Fully using every part of the prized red
prawn, the prawn is half cooked to maintain its texture and sweetness, and a sauce
made from espelette pepper and the prawn head with intense flavors, with grated
yuzu to balance with acidity and refreshing palate. Very nice.
The sixth course serves the prime Iberico Pluma,
a special cut of pork known for its juicy and tenderness. Cooked perfectly, the
pork is paired with a spiced sauce that brings forth a nice cumin fragrance but
not the heat. Together with some butternut pumpkin, in the form of dice and
puree, for a bit of sweetness. Very enjoyable.
The seventh course features Bresse pigeon. The
pigeon breast has been marinated with madeira, port and Armagnac, before slow
cook and pan-searing to caramelize the skin. Fantastic in taste, with the meat tender
and juicy, it is paired with a tasty sauce made with beetroot and blackcurrant.
On the side is a beetroot tart, and finishes with a grilled pigeon leg, stuffed
with pulled meat and tarragon. Another of my favorites on the menu.
The eighth course is Pistachio and Cherry. Inside
the bowl are cherry compotes of nice sweetness, with pistachio pieces to give a
crunchy bite. On top is the cherry sorbet for its rich flavors, also providing
the acidity to freshen the palate, along with pistachio cream at the bottom, helping
to transition to the dessert and the final dish of the menu.
The last course is a Valrhona Chocolate Coulant. The molten lava cake is perfectly baked, with the chocolate oozing out once the
crust is broken. The rich 75% dark chocolate has the right balance of
bitterness and sweetness, while the Mandarin Sorbet on the side provides an
interesting contrast in temperature, and the acidity to balance.
A Lemon Cream Madeleine is served as petits
fours to wrap up the dinner. Service is very good, with the staff friendly and
attentive, the sommelier is also knowledgeable on the wines.
The bill is very
reasonable at $4,281. With the good food quality, nice service and cozy
ambience, it is a place I would like to return, to perhaps try the fours hand at
the end of the month with Chef Donovan and Scott working together.
