2025年1月11日 星期六

Wineshark Weekend Cooking - Braised Pork Ribs with Sour Plums 酸梅炆排骨


Ingredients (for 4):
  • Pork spareribs - 600g
  • Chinese plum sauce - 2 tbsp
  • Pickled plums - 3
  • Pickled ginger - 3 pieces
  • Stock - 30ml
  • Ginger - 3 slices (crushed)
  • Red chili - 1
  • Salt - 1/4 tsp
  • Soy sauce - 1 tbsp
  • Sugar - 1 tsp + 1/2 tsp
  • Tapioca starch - 1 tsp
  • Chinese yellow wine - 2 tsp
  • Sesame oil - 1/4 tsp
Procedures:

1. Rinse the spareribs and then drip dry. Season with salt.


2. Crush the ginger slices. 


3. Use the back of the chopper to mince the pickled plums.


4. Cut the red chili into wedges.


5. Add soy sauce, 1/2 tsp of sugar, tapioca starch, Chinese yellow wine and sesame oil to the spareribs. Mix well.


6. Heat the pot with oil, then add in the crushed ginger to stir-fry briefly until fragrant.


7. Add the spareribs and pan-fry until slightly charred on both sides. 


8. Add in the pickled plum and Chinese plum sauce. Stir well. Add the stock and 1 tsp of sugar in. Add in the pickled ginger. Stir well and then cover with lid to braise for 10 minutes.


9. Add the red chili and mix well. 


10. Serve.



2025年1月10日 星期五

Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Té Bo


As expected, many people have taken the day off on the Friday after the Christmas holidays, so when we come to Two Taikoo Place in the early evening it is very quiet. On the night we are having dinner at the newly opened Té Bo, located at 1880 Social, helmed by Chef Sebastian Lorenzi.


There are two seating areas in the restaurant, one being the traditional table and the other is the chef’s counter. Picking the latter, the circular, marble counter is huge, able to accommodate 12 customers, allowing us to see the actions of Chef Lorenzi and his team closely. The design and ambience are stylish and chic, offering a relaxing ambience.


We order the Festive Menu ($1,688 each) and I also go for Festive Wine Pairing ($688). There are three canapes to start off. The first one is Cured Hamachi, served in a crisp tart wafer crust. The raw yellowtail has a sweet taste, nice umami, supplemented by White Soy, Sesame, and Pickled Radish to increase complexity of flavours.


The second canape features Japanese Cherry Tomato, wrapped inside a mini wafer cone together with some Rocket Pesto, combining the sweet, crunchy tomato with the pesto sauce made with cheese and fresh rocket instead of basil. On top there is Burrata which looks like the ice-cream on a cone. Nice presentation and good in taste.


The third canape is Chestnut Beignet. The deep-fried pastry is made with chestnut, with Mascarpone fillings to give a creamy and indulgent enjoyment. Chef Lorenzi then shaves some Black Truffle and then put those on top, adding the earthy tone to the beignet and also enhance with a premium appearance.


The homemade bread includes Toasted Grains Sourdough and Brioche. The sourdough is good, with a nice crust and acidity, but the brioche is a bit too greasy for me. The chef has prepared two butter to go with the bread, including Rosemary Butter and Salted Bordier Butter. Personally, I like the salted one from its creamy and smooth texture.


Starting with the first wine, it is Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2023 from Marlborough in New Zealand. Very refreshing with nice acidity, the wine has fragrant lime, floral, grassy and passionfruit characters, which goes well with the food.


The first course features Normandy Scallop. The raw scallops are sweet, with its flavours further enhanced by the nice citrusy of the Apple Consommé and Lime added. To increase the complexity of taste the chef has added some Timut Pepper sour cream too, with the finely diced Jicama giving a contrast with its crunchy texture. The caviar helps to make the dish even more appealing on visual and taste.


The second wine is Domaine La Colombe ‘La Colombe’ Chasselas 2023 from Fechy, Switzerland. This classic Swiss wine has an elegant, fresh floral nose, supplemented with lots of citrus, some spices, and minerality, richer and less acidic than the prior wine, pairing well with the langoustine.


The second course features Langoustine, wrapped in crispy thin pasta reminiscent of a Chinese dish we have eaten before. The langoustine is sweet and flavourful, and the chef has prepared a rich and creamy Coconut and Coriander sauce, added with Annatto Seed oil for additional spiciness. With some Smoked Aubergine puree underneath, it is another great combination of ingredients, with the different components balanced well and not feeling out-of-place.


The third wine is Domaine Simmonet-Fevre Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2021. The fresh ripe red fruit character dominates, supplemented with some smokiness. The body is fairly light with a smooth tannin. This Pinot Noir is a nice match with the pasta.


The third course features Beef Cheek Ravioli. Very beautifully presented, with a coral-like thin crisp with some Lemon Gel on top of the large ravioli with tasty beef cheek fillings. Sandwiched between them is a paste of Foie Gras, and underneath is the Jerusalem Artichoke puree together with the rich sauce. A dish that scores high marks on both visual and taste.


The fourth wine is Terrazas de Los Andes Reserva Chardonnay 2022 from Mendoza in Argentina. Nice citrus, pear, and stone fruit of peach, with a full body and hints of brioche characters on the palate. A solid wine to go with the richer cream served in the next course.


The fourth course features Amadai, with the chef using the Japanese technique to pour hot oil on the scales of the tilefish to make them stand and edible. There is a Fennel Cream to pair with the fish, with Dill, Baby Leek, and some Pickled Chanterelle to add texture and flavours to the delicate taste of the fish.


The fifth wine is Domaine Yves Cuilleron Les Vignes d’a Cote Syrah 2022 from Rhone. A pleasant and intense varietal with good blackcurrant and blackberry. Lots of spice including pepper and licorice while the velvet tannin is good match with the venison.


The fifth course features a Venison Saddle Roulade, with the delicious venison wrapping a Morteau Sausage, a traditional smoked sausage with rich and nice spicy taste. The venison is tender and cooked perfectly, paired with Brussels Sprout Chouoroute and Venison Jus, and some Black Truffle on top. My favourite dish in the evening.


The sixth and last wine is Chateau Rieussec 2017. A premium sweet wine from Sauternes, it has good sweetness, with a nice lemon tart, mango and orange blossom on the nose. The palate is rich and having delicious caramel and honeysuckle on top of the fruit. A delicious wine.


The sixth and final course is Buche de Noel, a type of traditional Christmas cake which looks like a log. The chocolate cake is soft and delicious, paired with some Cacao Meringue that are shaped like mushrooms, together with some silky Vanilla Chantilly, and Spiced Cherry-Jam. Well-balanced and even after finishing the whole dessert it does not feel too heavy or excessive, with a matching holiday theme that brings joy and happiness.


The Petits Fours is beautifully presented, with the four snacks put in a transparent jewel box. Although very full by now, they are so tempting that I finish them all in no time. The care and dedication to make the best experience is clearly felt, which I applaud Chef Lorezni and his team, in particular the pastry chef.


Service is good, with the staff friendly and attentive. The design of the chef’s counter makes it a bit clumsy for the staff to take dishes to serve customers, or the customers will need to take it down onto the table by themselves. But overall, still a very nice dining experience. The bill on the night is $4,629. Even though they are still new, this restaurant has lots of promise.


2025年1月7日 星期二

Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - T’ang Court 唐閣


I have this practice of going counter intuitive during festivals, say in CNY I will go to non-Chinese restaurants while in Christmas I will do the opposite. In this holiday I have picked T’ang Court in The Langham Hong Kong, arriving on the day after Christmas, to revisit this Michelin 3-star restaurant I last came two years ago, to see whether they continue to keep to their high quality.


We are seated on the upper floor, and the décor has not changed, with good distance between tables to offer space and privacy. The plush carpet and golden walls offer a luxurious vibe, with some new modern photographic art pieces on the walls providing a nice and interesting contrast.


After we finish ordering, the staff provides us with a complimentary amuse bouche. The Spicy Salt Abalone 椒鹽鮮鮑魚 is very tasty, with the abalone tender and not rubbery in texture, seasoned by the appetizing spicy salt which has a slight kick of chili but not excessively hot. Very good.


I have a bottle of Mount Pleasant Lovedale Semillon 2014 ($1,050) from Australia Hunter Valley to go with the food on the night. It has a nice lemony nose, honey with lanolin, exhibiting classic varietal characters. On the palate, the fruity and mineral acidity is pleasant and versatile, matching with most of the food.


To start, we have Crispy-fried Intestine 脆皮炸大腸 ($200). An evil yet very delicious dish, the intestine has a crispy surface, easy to chew and not tough. Already nicely marinated, the flavours are further enhanced by the sweet and sour sauce on the side, highly appetizing. It is also big in portion so probably a bit too much for two person. Very good.


Next, we have Baked Stuffed Crab Shell 鮮蟹蓋 ($360 each). A signature of the restaurant, this is probably the most expensive baked crab shell in town but equally in my opinion the best in taste. With a golden crust, the crab shell is stuffed with plenty of crab meat with a small amount of onion and cream sauce to add sweetness and texture, but still predominantly crab meat. I like the original taste without any Worcestershire sauce. Excellent.


For the soup, I have Braised Mixed Seafood with Bean Curd in Hot and Sour Soup 陳醋酸辣海皇羹 ($280). The hot and sour soup is my favourite order, with this one having a great balance of sourness and spiciness from the aged vinegar and chili. There are plenty of premium seafood, including scallop, prawn, crab meat, and lobster, adding umami and texture. However, the broth is a bit too thick for me. Good.


For my wife she has Shredded Duck, Fish Maw with Mushroom and Chinese Chive Soup 花膠鴨絲羹 ($280). The soup has plenty of shredded duck, fish maw, and mushroom, fragrant also from the chopped Chinese chives scattered on top. The roasted duck is good in seasoning, with taste of the soup deliciously rich but not feeling heavy in MSG. Very good.


Then comes Stir-fried Sliced Lamb with Garlic, Scallion and Bean Paste Sauce 京蔥獨蒜羊仔柳 ($480). The sliced lamb meat is tender, with a nice taste from the bean paste sauce. The chef has cleverly used solo garlic which is less overpowering on the smell or taste. And together with scallion, it is simply fantastic. The ingredients and cooking techniques might not be very fancy, but able to appreciate the quality of each component and combining to the best effect is testimony to the chef’s prowess. Very good.


The last dish we have is Braised Grouper Head and Brisket 生炆斑頭腩 ($500). Served in a sizzling hot claypot, the grouper is meaty and nice, with the flesh tender while the surface is caramelized beautifully. The mushroom, tofu and roasted pork are equally delicious. After finishing we did not see a big puddle of oil remaining in the claypot, another indication of the chef’s mastery in cooking. Excellent.


For dessert I have Baked Sago Pudding 蓮蓉西米布甸 ($70). My childhood memories, the pudding is freshly baked, very hot with caramelized surface. The sago pudding is appropriate in sweetness, with the lotus seed paste rich in flavours and also not too sweet. It did bring back a lot of happiness, helping me to recall the time when I have this dessert almost weekly when going out with my parents for dim sum. Excellent.


My wife has Double-boiled Papaya with Dried Peach Gum 冰糖桃膠燉木瓜 ($70). The soup is perfect on the sweetness, with the papaya ripe and also delicious. The healthy peach gum adds a gelatinous bite to the soft papaya to create an interesting mouthfeel. Very good.


We also order Sesame Rolls 濃香芝麻卷 ($60) to share. Not many restaurants will make this dim sum as it takes a lot of effort while not able to charge much. And here the sesame rolls are rich in flavours, and also having a good gelatinous texture. Very good.


Apart from our ordered dessert, the restaurant has a complimentary Petits Fours, including Pineapple Tart which is made in the shape of a pear, with the pineapple paste having chunks of the fruit and not too sweet. The Osmanthus Cake has wolfberries and sweetened osmanthus, also not too sweet. A premium treat. Very good.

Service is good, with the staff attentive, professional, and courteous. Like most Chinese restaurants, I would hope they can spend some time explaining each dish as that would help to connect the diners even better with the food. The bill on the night is $3,553 after a 15% discount from my hotel membership. Best baked stuffed crab shell in town.

2025年1月6日 星期一

Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Mikasaya


Like most people we love Japan cuisine, and if we have to count sushi omakase this certainly is our most visited one, reaching 23rd time and still counting. As a regular customer we will come every few months, to meet up with Chef Motoyama and his team, and experience the wonderful and seasonal ingredients he prepares.

Today we come to the restaurant, located at L Square in Causeway Bay, on the Christmas Day to celebrate. One of the reasons I like Mikasaya is the intimacy, with the chef able to manage the whole dinner well and interact with the customers individually. As usual, we order the Dinner Omakase Menu ($1,800 each) and ask Chef to recommend the sake to pair with the food.


The first sake 若波 純米吟醸 雄町 ($330) comes from Fukuoka, made from the sake rice Omachi, the renown ‘father of sake rice’. This sake has a good acidity, elegant and rounded, with delicate melon aromas. This is the one I like most among the three sakes I had on the night.


The first course features the seasonal, prized Kobako-Gani 香箱蟹. The Female Snow Crab can only be caught during November to January. Here, Chef Motoyama has meticulously removed the crab meat, and put on top of the brown fertilized eggs sotoko and orange unfertilized eggs uchiko, adding some vinegar jelly and shredded myoga on top. A great treat to celebrate Christmas.


The second course is a signature of the chef. Cutting a large slab of Saba , he adds sesame, shiso, making a maki. Cutting the Mackerel roll into slices, it was served on a piece of crisp nori, with a rich taste and a bit of sourness note, deep in umami. A traditional Edomae sushi of wonderful flavours.


The third course is a mix of three sashimi, including Hirame 平目, Buri , and Tako . The Olive Flounder has a firm bite, delicate in taste, with its engawa having a more crunchy texture, with more intense flavours from the fat. The Yellowtail is very good, fatty and very flavourful, while the Octopus is sliced thinly, with a nice crunchy texture and rich in umami. All very tasty.


The fourth course is Ankimo 鮟肝. After cutting thick pieces of the Monkfish Liver, Chef Motoyama adds a bit of narazuke on top. The delicious liver is much superior to foie gras in many ways, rich but in no way feeling greasy, and the flavours of the sauce have seeped in beautifully. The pickles further add a touch of matured yellow wine taste. Unstoppable.


Moving to the sushi, the first piece is Isaki 伊佐木. Pale pink in colour, the Chicken Grunt has a lean and delicate, sweet taste. Very good.


The second piece is Aji . This Japanese Horse Mackerel comes from Oita. With a bit of grated scallions on top, this flavourful delicacy is rich in taste and sweet. Excellent.


Finishing the first sake we proceed to ちえびじん 純米吟醸 山田錦 ($240). From Oita, this sake has a fruity aroma, more full-bodied than the last one, with a gentle, rounded sweetness. I agree with Chef Motoyama’s sequencing, as this is a better match with sushi than the sashimi.


The third piece is Kuruma-Ebi 車海老. The Japanese Tiger Prawn is served raw, and while generally the prawn will taste sweeter when boiled, the soft and tender flesh is maintained. Very good.


The fourth piece is Akami 赤身, and the chef has marinated the Lean Tuna in shoyu briefly to enhance the umami flavours. The tenderness is phenomenal. Excellent.


Taking a break in the sushi, Chef Motoyama goes to the kitchen to prepare the Amadai 甘鯛, pan-frying the Tilefish while pouring hot oil on the scales to make it stand and edible. The sauce is made from shrimps, with some deep-fried Sakura shrimps and scallions added. The crunchy texture of the scales contrasting the softness of the flesh, mixing with the delicious sauce is simply excellent.


The fifth piece of sushi is Ika 烏賊. After cutting on the surface of the Squid, the chef has added some rock salt on top to season, with a bit of yuzu shavings to freshen up. Very good.


The sixth piece is Shima-Aji 縞鯵. The Striped Jack has good lean texture and more delicate flavours, with a sweet note on the finish. Very good.


Next is Shirako 白子, coming with a ponzu of momiji oroshi and chopped scallions to the creamy Cod Milt. While some people might not like what it is, we both like this delicacy. Very good.


The seventh piece of sushi features Kinmedai 金目鯛. The Splendid Alfonsino has a beautiful red skin, with a delicate and tender flesh, good fat content and having nice umami. Very good.


The eighth piece is Chu-Toro 中とろ. The Medium Fatty Tuna has rich flavours, soft in texture while not too fatty and heavy. Very good.


Coming to the third sake, the chef has picked 福田酒造 福海 山田錦 火入 ($300) from Nagasaki. This sake has a fresher and more crisp texture than the last one. Smooth and easy to drink.


The ninth piece is Kohada 小鰭. The Gizzard Shad is often used as a reference for sushi chef, as each one has their own style. The time in vinegar and other factors decide how it tastes. This one has a higher acidity than many others which I like, full of umami. Very good.


The tenth piece is Hokkigai 北寄貝. The Surf Clam has a good sweetness, with a good crunch on the bite. The chef has slightly seared to make the clam even more delicious. Very good.


The eleventh piece is Sawara . The chef has seared the Japanese Spanish Mackerel to vitalize the fish oil, with great umami flavours. Rich and delicious. Very good.


The twelfth piece is the last sushi, featuring Bafun-Uni 馬糞海胆. Using a nori sheet to wrap the shari and sea urchin to serve to us, the sea urchin is sweet and does not have any weird taste. Very good.


To warm the stomach, the chef has prepared Noodles in Fish Soup. The intensely rich and flavourful fish soup is his signature, made using a lot of fish heads and bones to prepare, also adding lots of ginger. The noodle has a nice al dente texture, and it is so delicious we finish every single drop of the soup.


For dessert, it is the Homemade Ice-Cream Wafer and Strawberry Daifuku. The ice-cream is not too sweet, rich in milk flavours, while the Daifuku has a sweet strawberry wrapped inside the chewy rice cake, along with a delicious red bean paste. Even though very busy, the chef is still committed to make these desserts by himself, again testimony to his dedication to food and quality.

Service is very good, with Chef Motoyama friendly and bringing fun to all the customers, no matter regular or new ones. His whole team is also very customer-focus and eager to interact. The bill on the night is $4,917 which is very good value for money. No question it is my most visited sushi restaurant.