My first visit to this French restaurant
was back in 2020, and I was very impressed with the wonderful food
and services. Now already a Michelin 3-star, today we came back to The
Pottinger Hotel to experience what Chef Hideaki Sato has prepared to showcase
in his menu.
Stepping out from the elevator, on the wall
is the board showing the restaurant is celebrating its 10
th
anniversary. Led to the innermost table, its décor has not changed, with a
white and dark theme, dated wooden shatters on the windows, aged wooden floor
tiles, and different oldies gadgets re-creating a vibe of nostalgia.
The Seasonal Tasting Menu costs $2,980 each,
and I also go for the wine pairing at $1,980. Starting with an aperitif, Maison
Mumm RSRV Blanc de Blancs 2015 ($298). Chef Sato has been appointed by the
champagne house as their Gastronomic Global Ambassador, and it is best to start
the dinner with this BdB, refreshing and subtle, having a delicate minerality.
The House-made Sourdough has been served
since the restaurant’s opening in 2015, crunchy on the outside while soft and
moist inside, one of the best sourdoughs I have eaten in HK. Chef Sato has also prepared house-made butter as well as ricotta cheese which is freshly made everyday at
their own kitchen. The cheese and olive oil spread was phenomenal.
The first wine is Cave d’Occi Albarino
2023, from Niigata in Japan. While the prefecture is famous for sake rice, the
winery focuses on grape cultivation and this Albarino delivers a nice perfume
nose, with good acidity, rich minerality to match with the geoduck.
The first course features Shiromiru White
Geoduck, which are prepared two ways, raw and grilled. Seasoned with lemon
juice and olive oil, the geoduck is tossed with julienned vegetables and
jalapeno pickles for additional flavors and texture, while setting on top of a
terrine made from cucumber, celery and seaweed. Together with a geoduck sauce, with
some capers and vinegar to give the necessary acidity, resulting in a fantastic
dish with wonderful taste and texture, appetizing with the umami of the geoduck
shining through.
The second wine is Maison Mumm RSRV Cuvee
Lalou 2013. The bottle is the house’s flagship champagne, this wine features a 50/50
blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, with a nice buttery, ripe yellow fruit,
toasty nose, and the hazelnut and rich flavors made it a good match with the blue
lobster.
The second course is Crispy Blue Lobster
Paella, presenting the crisp bottom of the paella upside down. Inside with the
diced lobster meat with the rice and shallot, cooked in lobster broth and
saffron. On the side is Rouille red bell pepper and tomato sauce, together with
parsley oil infused with lobster shell extracts. Mixing everything together, the paella
is amazing, with the different components integrating perfectly in taste, and
each component are showcased to its full extent. Another phenomenal dish.
Another bread served is their other
signatures, but I cannot remember its name. Made from wheat flour from
Hokkaido, with a thin crunchy crust while the inside is airy and chewy in
texture.
The third wine switches to a Japanese sake.
From Gochouda Brewery in Saga, Azumaichi Junmai Ginjo is made from 100% Yamadanishiki,
with rich umami flavors that goes well with sea urchin and the richer sauce in
the upcoming pasta.
The third course features House-made Fresh
Pasta, and the chef cooked the pasta together with Aonori butter sauce, topped
with some fresh Yamaguchi uni. The pasta has the perfect al dente texture and
picking up the rich flavors of the seaweed butter sauce, supplemented further
by the umami and sweet taste of the sea urchin. It might look simple, but the
flavors are amazing.
The fourth wine is Domaine Tollot-Beaut
Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2022. The prized Burgundy white has a complex
nose, with a clear buttery oak on top of the citrus, white peach, pear and
honey, as well as the strong minerality and almond characters. An elegant wine
with body and richness that goes well with the corn and its butter sauce.
The fourth course is a seasonal dish
featuring Crab & Corn. The chef used Hokkaido Kegani crab, removed the meat
and made it into a dumpling. Together with steamed sweet corn from Hokkaido,
some deep-fried pasta made from corn flour on top, it is dressed with Cajun
spices butter sauce to give a hint of spiciness. Again, both the quality of
crab and corn are showcased impeccably, true to Chef Sato’s belief in pure,
simple, and seasonal.
The next bread served is Pain de Campagne,
with distinct flavors of roasted chestnut. All the bread were so good that we
finished all the pieces straight away.
The fifth wine is Hospices de Beaune Volnay
1er Cru Santenots 2015. The wine has a beautiful ruby red with a fresh nose of
berries, nice mineral notes of earth, with also silky, elegant tannin to go
with the veal.
The fifth course is Roasted Limousin Veal. The
nicely roasted veal is cooked to medium rare, juicy and seasoned beautifully
with garlic and herbs, together with a rich and flavorful veal jus with Madeira
wine reduction, along with some shaved black truffle on top. On the side is a
mashed potato stuffed with beef ragu, along with sauteed spinach and brown
butter confit carrots, top with roasted hazelnuts. Everything is harmonized, on
the texture, flavors, and it is like a orchestra of delicacies. Fantastic.
To transition to dessert, the chef has
prepared a Signature Flower Tea to cleanse our palate and helps to remove the
heaviness in stomach. Made with Roselle flowers and dried blood orange, it is
fragrant and soothing to the palate.
The sixth pairing is not wine but a
cocktail instead. Guava Salty Dog is an original cocktail concocted by the restaurant,
to match with the seasonal fruit of guava and white peach featured in the
dessert. Refreshing and not too sweet, it is a nice cocktail I am happy to
order on its own.
The sixth course is Peach & Guava
Sorbet with Soda Mousse. With a beautiful pinkish crispy peach scarf covering,
the sorbet has rich flavors of Yamanashi peach and pink guava, covered with
guava jelly. The combination of the two fruits is surprisingly complementary, enriched
by the different textures of sorbet, mousse, and crisp. Very delicious.
The seventh and final pairing features Prototip
Raki Lot 2023, a liquor from Turkey, made from distillation of fermented must,
like grappa. There is fragrant star anise aroma, with a smooth palate and while
the alcohol level is high, it does not have a burning feeling on the swallow.
The seventh and final course is Pineapple
Compote with Anise, dressed with anise liqueur from South of France. On top are
some mousseline creams and a piece of crispy puff pastry and meringue for
additional texture. On the side is pineapple sorbet, together with pineapple
mint sauce and vanilla yogurt sauce. The chef also provided a fizzy drink made
from pineapple, anise and lime juice to go together with the dessert. A great
finale.
After a cup of nicely brewed coffee, the
Petits Fours is Chocolate Praline serve in a jar. The rich chocolate goes
perfectly well with the coffee, and wraps up the night for us with a happy,
satisfying contented feeling.
Service is very good, with the staff all
very polite and courteous, as would expect in typical high-end Japanese restaurants. It is great to see Chef
Sato and his wife come to the table repeatedly to introduce the dishes and
wines. The bill on the night is $9,610 and while it is not cheap, it is one of
the best French restaurant in HK in my opinion to experience the pure and true
flavors of the top-notch ingredients in perfectly crafted dishes. Impeccable
overall.