Taking over the space of the former Azito, located at FOCO
in Central, where there are also several other well-known sushi restaurants on
the same building, it shows the confidence of Sushi Koh, placing Chef Hirokuni
Shiga and his team at centre stage with its circular layout, and the other
12-seats surrounding.
I ordered a bottle of
榮光富士 大吟釀 無濾過生原酒 聖域
Sanctuary Eikofuji Sanctuary Daiginjo Muroka Nama Genshu ($1,280) to pair with
the Dinner Omakase ($2,480 each). This is one of the premium sakes from the brewery,
with plenty of fruit and floral, silky and clean in texture, a good sake to
pair with most of the food.
The first course featured Kochi
コチ, Japanese Flathead Fish, a rare, prized
fish with a firm texture and clean taste. It was the first time I had this as
sashimi in all my years of eating Japanese food. Paired with soy sauce and
wasabi.
The second course featured Akagai
赤貝, with the crunchy Ark Shell great
in umami, paired with a ponzu sauce on top with some nice citrus acidity and a white
miso sauce on the bottom for savoury. The shiso flowers further added
fragrance.
The third course featured Katsuo
鰹, with the Skipjack Tuna having a
wonderful texture. To complement, the chef had added myoga and spring onion to
reduce the irony taste of the fish, supplemented with mashed yam and ponzu
sauce.
Moving to sushi, the first piece was Shiro-Ika
白烏賊. The
White Squid from Kyushu is tender on the bite, with the trick coming from how
the chef meticulously cutting on the surface to break the squid and made it
less chewy. Sweet in taste.
The second piece was Kasugo
春子鯛. The Young Seabream was a seasonal
delicacy, with tender texture and a nice sweetness, with some dusted yuzu
shavings on top to stimulate with an appealing citrus note. Wonderful in taste.
The third piece was Aji
鯵. The Horse Mackerel was paired with a bit of grated
ginger and scallion on top as seasoning to mask any fishy notes which could
throw people off if they did not like even just a tiny bit. This was very
fresh, rich in umami.
The fourth
piece was Kisu
鱚. The Japanese Whiting had a lean texture, with clean and refreshing
flavours. The beautiful fish skin pattern was an easy way to distinguish this
classic Edomae early-summer sushi.
The fifth
piece was Nishin
鰊, with the Pacific Herring very soft and tender, virtually dissolving in
the mouth. The chef had cut into many thin slices and put them together to make
the sushi, with a bit of finely shredded onion for seasoning.
Going back
to the course, the fifth one was Chawanmushi
茶碗蒸. The steamed egg custard contained
Hamaguri 蛤, with the Asian Hard Clams giving additional rich umami flavours to the
steamed egg, with a sweet corn puree on top.
The sixth
course featured Awabi
鮑, and the Black Abalone was simply huge in size. Cutting the body into
slices and wedges to offer two different bites, they were paired with the liver
sauce for enhanced flavours, plus a cup of delicious broth on the side.
The seventh
course featured Kamasu
魳, with the grilled Barracuda paired with some eggplant, scattered with
maguro flakes on top, serving with a cold skipjack tuna broth. A nice summer
dish to showcase the seasonal ingredients.
Returning
to sushi, the sixth piece was Akami
赤身. The Lean Tuna was very tender in texture, having
soaked in soy sauce for a brief while to infuse with the savoury which brought
forward the umami flavours even further. Very delicious.
The seventh
piece was O-Toro
大とろ, with the chef cutting three thin layers of the Fatty Tuna before
kneading to sushi, breaking the chewy tendon. The rich fish oil was wonderful
in taste, delicious but not excessively fatty like eating a piece of fat.
The eighth
piece was Kohada
小鰭, with the Gizzard Shad salted and marinated in vinegar to give a unique
taste. Another classic Edomae sushi which Chef Hiro-san perfected, another of
my favorites in the evening.
Then came
the eighth course of Taichio
太刀魚, with the meaty Largehead Hairtail nicely grilled over charcoal, with a
crisp skin while the flesh remained moist. With a bit of mashed turnip on the
side as condiment, great in taste.
The ninth
sushi was Kuruma-Ebi
車海老. The Japanese Tiger Prawn was blanched perfectly, giving a bouncy
texture and sweet taste that could only be enjoyed when eating them cooked.
The tenth
sushi was Nodoguro
喉黒, with the Blackthroat Seaperch lightly grilled on charcoal to vitalize
the fish oil, leaving the flesh a beautiful pinkish hue. The fish oil was
fragrant, with intense flavors, amazing in taste.
The
eleventh sushi was Murasaki-Uni Temaki
紫海胆. The Purple Sea Urchin was creamy
in texture, with a nice, sweet taste. The Chef had put a generous portion in
the handroll, almost falling off the cone.
The twelfth
piece was Ankimo
鮟肝, with the Chef adding a thin piece of narazuke on the Monkfish Liver before
making the sushi, balancing the rich flavors with the unique fermented sake
lees to a great effect.
The final
piece was Anago Maki
穴子巻, where Chef Hiro-san had added the Conger Eel to the sushi rice along
with some julienned cucumber to make the roll. The soft texture of the eel
contrasted to the crunchy cucumber nicely.
For the
Tamagoyaki
玉子焼, the baked Egg Omelet added with scallops and nagaimo to give an extra
layer of umami. The steaming hot Miso Soup was a good way to warm the stomach
after the meal, giving satisfying comfort.
Finally, the
dessert was Almond Tofu with Melon. The almond tofu was appropriate in
sweetness, smooth in texture, with the diced melon giving some additional bite,
plus the puree on the bottom balancing with some acidity to freshen the palate.
Service was very good, with good interactions throughout the
meal and the experience was pleasant and joyful. The bill on the night was
$6,864. Considering the food quality and overall satisfaction I would rate them
an Excellent 78 points, worth returning.