Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Kanesaka Hong Kong

When going for fine-dining restaurants in Central, the furthest I go is Mandarin Oriental, thinking there is simply nothing beyond that point until near Admiralty MTR station. While I have heard about this sushi restaurant, it is a surprise to learn that it is actually located at CCB Tower, adjacent to another famous Chinese restaurant Howard’s Gourmet under the same group.

The staff leads us to the small restaurant which can accommodate only a handful of customers along the nice hinoki wooden sushi bar. There are neat handcrafted kumiko design patterns on the ceiling, showing subtle elegance and premium ambience to accompany the dining experience. Serving us on the day is Chef Omine Kento, who has joined Kanesaka in Ginza before coming to HK.

The Omakase ($2,980 each) starts with Bafun-Uni. Coming from Hokkaido, the beautiful orangish Bafun sea urchin is served in its own shell, with the bottom layer is a puree made from yurine, or lily root. The sea urchin is sweet in taste, without any weird notes, and the creamy lily root is delicate and able to highlight the flavours of the sea urchin. Very good.

The second course is the seasonal Seko-Gani. Coming from Hyogo, the chef has meticulously removed the meat from the claws of the female snow crab, and then put it back beautifully onto the shell. Underneath is the meat of the crab body, mixed with uchiko, the rich, orange-coloured roes inside the crab. On top of the claw meat is a ball of sotoko, the firm and crunchy roes found outside the shell. With a bit of yuzu juice and vinegar the sweet flavours are memorable. Excellent.

The third course is Yaki Shirako. The cod milt has been grilled over charcoal briefly to sear the surface, but able to retain a creamy and velvety texture. With Japanese leek and a thick sauce, the delicate flavours are well-balanced with an intricate umami seeping out from every bite. Very good.

The fourth course is Tako. Cutting a piece of the large octopus tentacles to serve, it has a surprisingly soft texture, apparently has gone through a lot of massaging and careful braising process. Biting into the tentacles the sweet taste from the sauce will seep out, with the chef adding some yuzu shavings on top to freshen the palate, as well as a bit of mustard on the side for additional seasoning. Excellent.

The fifth course is Nodoguro, which has been steamed with sake. The prized deep-water blackthroat seaperch has delicious fattiness, with the chef using the steaming method to highlight the original flavours to the full extent, supplemented with a bit of the sweet fragrance coming from the sake. Very good.

The sixth course is Grilled Sawara. The Japanese Spanish mackerel has been marinated in miso before grilling, with the deep miso flavours infused into the fish, helping to bring forth the umami even more. Paired with some seasonal Japanese vegetables including kogomi and nanohana, this is very good in taste and completes the first half of the omakase before proceeding to the sushi.

The first sushi features Kanpachi. The greater amberjack has a firm texture, balanced in flavours with also a lingering sweet taste. Very good.

The second sushi features Sumi-Ika. Cutting on the surface of the cuttlefish without breaking it apart shows the skill of the chef, allowing the soy sauce to seep into, instead of draining off the smooth surface, as well as breaking the fiber to make it easy to chew. Very good.

The third sushi features Maguro, with the tuna caught in Oma, Aomori. The lean tuna has been marinated in soy sauce briefly to season and soften it to a nice silky-smooth texture that slides down the throat on the bite. Excellent.

The fourth sushi continues to feature the Maguro, but this time it is another cut, Chu-Toro. The medium-fatty tuna has a richer taste comparatively, with a good balance so it is not feeling particularly greasy. Very good.

The fifth sushi finishes the Maguro trio, featuring O-Toro, the most fatty part of the tuna. The intense flavours of the fish oil permeate on the bite, bringing a sense of luxury satisfaction. I like how the chef selects the cut as it is not feeling like eating a lump of fat. Excellent.

The sixth sushi features Aji, one of my favourite fish. The silvery sheen of the skin tells how fresh they are, with the chef cutting it open in traditional style, adding a bit of scallion to season. The rich umami taste is memorable, and it will be my candidate for an encore. Excellent.

The seventh sushi features Hokkigai. The chef has grilled the surf clam before making it into sushi, making the clam meat even sweeter in taste but without compromising the nice crunchy bite. Very good.

The eighth sushi features Kuruma-Ebi. After briefly poaching the Japanese tiger prawn, the chef removes the shell and cut off a bit of the tail so that the whole sushi does not become too long, a thoughtful way to facilitate the customers. The tail, however, is served on the side so it is not going to waste. Very sweet in taste with a bouncy texture, it is excellent.

The ninth sushi features Murasaki-Uni from Hokkaido. While it is not in the best season, the purple sea urchin is still of good quality, with a creamy soft texture and without any weird taste. The chef has prepared a gunkan to make it easier for us to pick up the sushi as well. Very good.

The tenth and last piece of sushi features Anago. The conger eel has been steamed first and then grilled over charcoal, with a very tender texture, virtually melting-in-the-mouth. With a bit of sansho pepper to season, the nitsume sauce helps to bring forward the umami but not over-dominating the flavours. The Tamago on the side is also delicious in taste. Very good.

My wife orders an additional Ikura sushi ($150) while I opts for two pieces that are not originally on the menu. The first one is Akagai ($150), with the ark shell quite large in size, fresh and bouncy in texture, rich in umami taste. Very good.

The other piece is Kohada ($130), which is another of my favourite sushi. With each chef having his own recipe of marinade, here the sourness of the gizzard shad is not too overpowering, which would be more appealing to local palate. Excellent.

There is also a Toro-Maki included, with the chef chopping up a mix of different parts of the maguro briefly, adding some leek, and then wrapping the mashed tuna in a crisp nori sheet. The balance of the amount of the different fatty tuna is an art and the chef has mastered it well. A great finale for the sushi and for tuna fans it is a satisfying treat to complete the meal.

Instead of using bonito, the Soup is made from dried maguro, fragrant and with a nice taste. The dessert is a slice of Melon from Kumamoto, juicy and sweet. It helps to warm the stomach and facilitate digestion, giving a satisfying contention.

Service is very good, with the staff attentive and courteous. The chef may not have a lot of interactions with us during the meal but the atmosphere throughout is relaxing. The bill on the night is $6,390 after a 10% discount. Look forward to the next visit and enjoy some sake as well.

Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Citrino da Yoshinaga Jinbo

This restaurant integrates Italian cooking with a Japanese touch, with owner chef Yoshinaga Jinbo aiming to highlight the flavours of the ingredients through impeccable execution of his cooking. On this Saturday after the Christmas holiday, we come to On Lan Street in Central, to see how the chef weaves his magic on the ingredients.

The décor of the restaurant has a chic and artistic vibe, with the wallpaper having a nice diamond pattern decorated with some art pieces that has apparently paid tribute to the signature Yayoi Kusama dotted pumpkins. Even the fabric of the sofa and chairs have intricate designs sewn, and the overall ambience is relaxing, with a touch of subtle luxury premium.

We order a bottle of Moss Wood Ribbon Vale Chardonnay 2022 ($1,380). This wine comes from Margaret River in Western Australia, with a nice citrus note supplemented with plenty of peach and apricot, good vanilla and toasty oak, and finishing with some almond. The fresh acidity makes it a nice match with most of the seafood and also can go with the pork loin well.

We decide to order two starters, one pasta, and two main courses to share. Starting with Citrino Sea Salad ($368), and although it is called salad, there is no vegetable, instead featuring a range of seasonal fresh seafood, which I can identify a few, including deep-fried tilefish, marinated tuna, squid, applewood-smoked scallop, slow-cooked abalone, prawn, clam-jelly caviar. Paired with an appetizing and refreshing citrus dressing, it is very delicious and umami in taste. Excellent.

The next starter is Seasonal Organic Vegetable Smoke Baona Cauda ($338). This is Chef Jinbo’s signature dish, featuring 35 different types of vegetables, drawing a big wow and smile from both of us when the staff presents those colourful and beautiful assorted ingredients to us. Seeing these we already know the dish will not be disappointing.

The warm salad highlights the different texture and flavours of the vegetables using different cooking methods, but without excessive seasoning or any other protein. With a flavourful Baona Cauda sauce made with potato, garlic, and anchovy, the salad is truly amazing and a must-try. No wonder I see almost all the tables have ordered this one.

For the pasta, we order the Crab Pasta ($788) which is not on the menu. The capellini has a wonderful al dente, cooked with a lobster stock, together with king crab and snow crab meat, with a bit of Japanese green chili added so there is a hint of stimulating spiciness. Very delicious, the pasta has absorbed the flavours of the lobster stock, harmonized nicely with the crab meat. The chili is the touch of genius to add extra layer of flavours and make the whole pasta lively. Excellent.

On the main course we have Toothfish ($498) which is also not on menu. The fish is slightly seared and then cooked ‘En Papillote’, wrapped inside a parchment paper with fresh clams and tomato. The fish has a firm texture, rich in fish flavours, testimony to the quality of the ingredient. The essence of the clams and fish, along with the tomatoes, are showing up in the stock, which are so delicious I scooped up every last drop from the plate. Excellent.

The other main course is Succulent Iberico Pork-Loin ($480). The pork loin is seared beautifully on the surface to caramelize, with the interior still showing pink, very juicy and full of flavours, and the chef has thoughtfully added a bit of fresh peppers on the side for us to season as needed. Paired with a nice veal porcini marsala wine sauce, on the side there is a broccoli puree, with two pieces of deep-fried samosa which contains Napa cabbage. Excellent.

Coming to dessert, I have chosen Citrino Tiramisu ($148). Served in a large coffee cup, the tiramisu is authentic in taste, with the ladyfinger dipped in coffee at the bottom, with a rich middle layer of mascarpone cream, and cocoa powder on top. A nice twist is the addition of coffee jelly to increase the texture. On the side there is coffee gelato as well. Very good.

My wife has Seasonal Gelato ($128), which includes two flavours of Pistachio and Chocolate. Both the gelato are homemade, soft and creamy in texture, and appropriate on sweetness, with a wafer and honey cake to go together. Very good.

Wrapping up with a cup of coffee, it is a highly satisfying dinner. Service is very nice, with the staff attentive and courteous. The overall dining experience is joyful, and the food is truly exceptional. The bill on the night is $4,783. Reasonable for such high-quality ingredients. Excellent Italian cuisine with a touch of Japanese finesse.

Wineshark Weekend Cooking - Braised Pork Ribs with Sour Plums 酸梅炆排骨

Ingredients (for 4):

• Pork spareribs - 600g
• Chinese plum sauce - 2 tbsp
• Pickled plums - 3
• Pickled ginger - 3 pieces
• Stock - 30ml
• Ginger - 3 slices (crushed)
• Red chili - 1
• Salt - 1/4 tsp
• Soy sauce - 1 tbsp
• Sugar - 1 tsp + 1/2 tsp
• Tapioca starch - 1 tsp
• Chinese yellow wine - 2 tsp
• Sesame oil - 1/4 tsp

Procedures:

1. Rinse the spareribs and then drip dry. Season with salt.

2. Crush the ginger slices. 

3. Use the back of the chopper to mince the pickled plums.

4. Cut the red chili into wedges.

5. Add soy sauce, 1/2 tsp of sugar, tapioca starch, Chinese yellow wine and sesame oil to the spareribs. Mix well.

6. Heat the pot with oil, then add in the crushed ginger to stir-fry briefly until fragrant.

7. Add the spareribs and pan-fry until slightly charred on both sides. 

8. Add in the pickled plum and Chinese plum sauce. Stir well. Add the stock and 1 tsp of sugar in. Add in the pickled ginger. Stir well and then cover with lid to braise for 10 minutes.

9. Add the red chili and mix well. 

10. Serve.

Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Té Bo

As expected, many people have taken the day off on the Friday after the Christmas holidays, so when we come to Two Taikoo Place in the early evening it is very quiet. On the night we are having dinner at the newly opened Té Bo, located at 1880 Social, helmed by Chef Sebastian Lorenzi.

There are two seating areas in the restaurant, one being the traditional table and the other is the chef’s counter. Picking the latter, the circular, marble counter is huge, able to accommodate 12 customers, allowing us to see the actions of Chef Lorenzi and his team closely. The design and ambience are stylish and chic, offering a relaxing ambience.

We order the Festive Menu ($1,688 each) and I also go for Festive Wine Pairing ($688). There are three canapes to start off. The first one is Cured Hamachi, served in a crisp tart wafer crust. The raw yellowtail has a sweet taste, nice umami, supplemented by White Soy, Sesame, and Pickled Radish to increase complexity of flavours.

The second canape features Japanese Cherry Tomato, wrapped inside a mini wafer cone together with some Rocket Pesto, combining the sweet, crunchy tomato with the pesto sauce made with cheese and fresh rocket instead of basil. On top there is Burrata which looks like the ice-cream on a cone. Nice presentation and good in taste.

The third canape is Chestnut Beignet. The deep-fried pastry is made with chestnut, with Mascarpone fillings to give a creamy and indulgent enjoyment. Chef Lorenzi then shaves some Black Truffle and then put those on top, adding the earthy tone to the beignet and also enhance with a premium appearance.

The homemade bread includes Toasted Grains Sourdough and Brioche. The sourdough is good, with a nice crust and acidity, but the brioche is a bit too greasy for me. The chef has prepared two butter to go with the bread, including Rosemary Butter and Salted Bordier Butter. Personally, I like the salted one from its creamy and smooth texture.

Starting with the first wine, it is Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2023 from Marlborough in New Zealand. Very refreshing with nice acidity, the wine has fragrant lime, floral, grassy and passionfruit characters, which goes well with the food.

The first course features Normandy Scallop. The raw scallops are sweet, with its flavours further enhanced by the nice citrusy of the Apple Consommé and Lime added. To increase the complexity of taste the chef has added some Timut Pepper sour cream too, with the finely diced Jicama giving a contrast with its crunchy texture. The caviar helps to make the dish even more appealing on visual and taste.

The second wine is Domaine La Colombe ‘La Colombe’ Chasselas 2023 from Fechy, Switzerland. This classic Swiss wine has an elegant, fresh floral nose, supplemented with lots of citrus, some spices, and minerality, richer and less acidic than the prior wine, pairing well with the langoustine.

The second course features Langoustine, wrapped in crispy thin pasta reminiscent of a Chinese dish we have eaten before. The langoustine is sweet and flavourful, and the chef has prepared a rich and creamy Coconut and Coriander sauce, added with Annatto Seed oil for additional spiciness. With some Smoked Aubergine puree underneath, it is another great combination of ingredients, with the different components balanced well and not feeling out-of-place.

The third wine is Domaine Simmonet-Fevre Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2021. The fresh ripe red fruit character dominates, supplemented with some smokiness. The body is fairly light with a smooth tannin. This Pinot Noir is a nice match with the pasta.

The third course features Beef Cheek Ravioli. Very beautifully presented, with a coral-like thin crisp with some Lemon Gel on top of the large ravioli with tasty beef cheek fillings. Sandwiched between them is a paste of Foie Gras, and underneath is the Jerusalem Artichoke puree together with the rich sauce. A dish that scores high marks on both visual and taste.

The fourth wine is Terrazas de Los Andes Reserva Chardonnay 2022 from Mendoza in Argentina. Nice citrus, pear, and stone fruit of peach, with a full body and hints of brioche characters on the palate. A solid wine to go with the richer cream served in the next course.

The fourth course features Amadai, with the chef using the Japanese technique to pour hot oil on the scales of the tilefish to make them stand and edible. There is a Fennel Cream to pair with the fish, with Dill, Baby Leek, and some Pickled Chanterelle to add texture and flavours to the delicate taste of the fish.

The fifth wine is Domaine Yves Cuilleron Les Vignes d’a Cote Syrah 2022 from Rhone. A pleasant and intense varietal with good blackcurrant and blackberry. Lots of spice including pepper and licorice while the velvet tannin is good match with the venison.

The fifth course features a Venison Saddle Roulade, with the delicious venison wrapping a Morteau Sausage, a traditional smoked sausage with rich and nice spicy taste. The venison is tender and cooked perfectly, paired with Brussels Sprout Chouoroute and Venison Jus, and some Black Truffle on top. My favourite dish in the evening.

The sixth and last wine is Chateau Rieussec 2017. A premium sweet wine from Sauternes, it has good sweetness, with a nice lemon tart, mango and orange blossom on the nose. The palate is rich and having delicious caramel and honeysuckle on top of the fruit. A delicious wine.

The sixth and final course is Buche de Noel, a type of traditional Christmas cake which looks like a log. The chocolate cake is soft and delicious, paired with some Cacao Meringue that are shaped like mushrooms, together with some silky Vanilla Chantilly, and Spiced Cherry-Jam. Well-balanced and even after finishing the whole dessert it does not feel too heavy or excessive, with a matching holiday theme that brings joy and happiness.

The Petits Fours is beautifully presented, with the four snacks put in a transparent jewel box. Although very full by now, they are so tempting that I finish them all in no time. The care and dedication to make the best experience is clearly felt, which I applaud Chef Lorezni and his team, in particular the pastry chef.

Service is good, with the staff friendly and attentive. The design of the chef’s counter makes it a bit clumsy for the staff to take dishes to serve customers, or the customers will need to take it down onto the table by themselves. But overall, still a very nice dining experience. The bill on the night is $4,629. Even though they are still new, this restaurant has lots of promise.