Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Sushi Zo

This restaurant is the HK branch of the Sushi Zo group which also operates in different parts of the world, including a Michelin-starred branch in Los Angeles. Located in Tai Kwun, at the lower ground floor of the former Police Headquarters Block, it is a bit difficult to find, as the entrance is through a side door inside Gishiki Lounge.

The staff helpfully leads us into the large sushi counter that can accommodate a maximum of 12 customers. There are two seatings for dinner, and we go for the early one starting at 6pm, with Executive Chef Ryohei Sugawara and his assistant already busy in preparation. It is quiet on this day, probably because it is CNY eve.

The Dinner Omakase ($2,500 each) comprises of 18 courses. I also order a bottle of Koshinotsuru Nishiki Koi Junmai Daiginjo 越の鶴 純米大吟醸 錦鯉ボトル ($1,688). This sake is produced by 越銘醸 from Niigata, with a delicate dry taste which makes it a nice pairing with most of the food on the night.

The first course is Hamaguri Clam Soup with Noresore. The clam soup has a fantastic umami taste, but the highlight is the seasonal baby eels, which are soft and smooth, exhibiting a delicate, subtle sweetness.

The second course is Shima-Ebi with Mozuku Seaweed. On top of the pickled sea moss are the Hokkaido morotoge shrimp, with its wonderful sweetness pairing well with the sourness of the marinated seaweed, to give balanced and great flavours.

The third course features Wild Buri. Unlike most restaurants using farmed ones, here the yellowtail is caught, with deeper flavours. It is served with a ponzu sauce, plus some yuzu kosho mixed with mashed daikon on top.

The fourth course features Ankimo. The slice of monkfish liver has creamy soft texture, rich in taste but not greasy like foie gras. Paired with bonito jelly and caviar on top to increase the flavours and complexity, together with persimmon and nanohana on the side to balance the richer taste of the monkfish liver.

The fifth course features Sawara. The Spanish mackerel has been coated with a thin layer of crumbs before deep-frying, and then cut into slices for serving. On the fish there are tartare sauce and sansho pickles to season, a nice combination.

Coming to the sushi section, the first piece is Shiro-Amadai Sushi. A premium fish, the tilefish has been marinated in kombu to soften the texture and increase the umami flavours, with a delicate taste and very tender.

The second piece is Aori-Ika Sushi. The chef has meticulously cut the surface of the Bigfin Reef Squid to make it easier to chew, with a special homemade sauce made from the squid ink to add flavours. He also reminds us not to touch the lips as the ink will stain. Fantastic in texture, this type of squid is my favourite for sushi.

The third piece is Kawahagi Sushi. Cutting the thread-sail filefish into strips and serve in a small bowl with shari, the chef prepares a creamy paste made from the delicious fish liver on top, together with a bit of menegi to add fragrance.

The fourth piece is Akagai Sushi. The ark shell is beautifully cut in butterfly shape, very fresh, sweet and crunchy in texture. The chef adds its himo, or mantle, to the sushi, which is very delicious with even more concentrated flavours.

The fifth piece is Saba Sushi. The smoked blue mackerel roll has some maitake mushroom and ginger for texture, plus a strip of translucent vinegared kombu on top for acidity and umami. Wrapped with a nori sheet to serve, it is a wonderful traditional pressed sushi.

Taking a short break from the sushi, the chef shows us the huge Awabi. Cutting the abalone into thin slices, they are served with the creamy liver paste which are rich and flavourful, with the abalone having an amazing bite.

After finishing the abalone, the chef has thoughtfully provided some shari and more of the liver sauce on the plate, and even adding some sea urchin. When mixing it all up, it is like a risotto, so amazing in taste I almost lick the plate clean.

Returning to sushi, the sixth piece is Kuruma-Ebi Sushi. Still steaming, the poached tiger prawn is taken out from the kitchen and immediately removed the shell to serve. The wonderful texture and great sweetness are phenomenal.

The seventh piece is Chu-Toro Sushi. The tuna comes from Oma in Aomori, and this cut of medium fatty portion is my favourite as it has the perfect balance of lean and fat, not too greasy but still able to enjoy the signature rich and intensely flavourful fish oil.

The eighth piece is Uni Sushi, with the chef using Bafun sea urchin but two different types, one in box and one in brine. Putting them in a nori sheet with shari, the generous portion of the two not only allows us to enjoy the sea urchin with satisfaction, but also to taste the contrast in texture.

The ninth piece is Anago Sushi. The sea eel has been grilled before kneading into sushi, and then brushed with a delicious nitsume sauce. The melt-in-the-mouth texture is amazing. This is one of the pieces I would like to ask for an encore.

The tenth and last piece is Tuna Hand Roll, with the chef mixing some minced medium fatty tuna with salmon roes and pickled daikon before making a hand roll, with shiso leaf. A filling and gratifying completion of the sushi.

The Shrimp Miso Soup is tasty, using red miso to give intense flavours, as well as a soothing warmth to the stomach, leaving us with a contented and satisfying memory of a full and delicious dinner.

Finishing dessert is Yukidoke, essentially a mochigome made from glutinous rice with red beans paste filling and a cap made from egg white and a gin called Togedama from Saitama, the home of Chef Sugawara. The Fresh Fruit includes Strawberry and Pomelo. Both very nice.

Service is very good, with the staff and chef all very friendly. Chef Sugawara can speak English and able to interact well with the customers. The food is also fantastic, using high-end ingredients of good quality and freshness. The bill on the night is $7,357 which is reasonable. A wonderful omakase experience.

Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Landau's

Used to be the French restaurant Junon, this place has recently re-opened under the name Landau’s. Located at 2/F Wu Chung House in Wanchai, the restaurant offers two seating area, one is a vibrant Bar and Grill with a casual and lively atmosphere, while we have booked to sit at the Dining Room with a more formal setting.

The neat décor has an artistic traditional vibe, most notably from the glass panels and intricate woodworks on the ceiling, as well as the tall and large windows of European designs. The ambience reminds me a bit of a Michelin-starred restaurants at a 5-star hotel in Kowloon. The night is quiet, without that many customers, perhaps as it is just before CNY and people generally prefer Chinese cuisine.

To start, I have a glass of E. Guigal Cotes du Rhone Blanc 2022 ($98). With a beautiful light gold colour, the wine has a fresh nose of honeysuckle, white peach and apricot, and some sweet spices which goes well with the red prawn crudo.

The Amuse Bouche is a small Brioche, hollowed to stuff with salmon mousse, delicious with a creamy and savoury taste. The few pickled onion on top helps to give acidity. Nice and appetizing.

For the starters, I order a Red Prawn Crudo ($388). The red prawn has been cut into thin slices, drizzled with some orange dressing instead of lemon to provide the acidity. A creative twist with good effect. Together with fennel jelly and dashi cream to add to the flavours, a delicious starter.

My wife has Seared Scallops ($238), with the two large scallops nicely seared with brown butter on both sides to give a caramelized surface while still maintain soft and tender on the inside. The umami of the scallops matches well with the rich, creamy and sweet corn puree too.

For the main course, I have chosen M9 Wagyu Sirloin ($588). The sirloin has been grilled beautifully to my requested medium level, juicy and tender. On the side are some tortellini with tendon stuffing, with also some morel and saffron emulsion to pair with the beef.

The wife has Prosciutto Wrapped Monkfish ($238), with the prosciutto providing a nice savoury taste to the monkfish. The port and wine jus, along with truffle foam, provides further dried fruit and earthy flavours to complement.

For dessert, I have the Chocolate Fondant ($128). Breaking the crust of the fondant the rich and delicious chocolate inside pours out, and on the side the crunchy dulce and caramel ice cream further adds sweetness to this indulgent dessert. Best if you have a sweet tooth.

My wife has Pistachio Crème Brulee ($128). On the crunchy caramel surface, the chef has scattered some pistachio for more texture and taste, while the crème brulee silky smooth and having a more mellow sweetness than the chocolate fondant.

Service is decent, with the staff courteous but did not do much to introduce the dishes or try to share more the stories of this place, or the background of the restaurant, which I think is a big miss given its rich history. The bill on the night is $2,050. To me it is a bit pricey. 

Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Lai Ching Heen 麗晶軒

To celebrate my wife’s birthday, we return to Lai Ching Heen, one of her favourite Chinese restaurants. Located at The Regent Hong Kong in TST, it has been awarded Michelin 2-star status since re-opening two years ago after the renovation of the hotel.

The many jade themed decorations and design elements highlight a luxury and comfortable ambience, and we are seated at the same table from our last visit, looking out to the Victoria Harbour and the HK Island on the opposite bank.

To start I have a glass of Piper-Heidsieck Rare Millesime 2013 ($498). A beautiful Champagne not only because of its nicely designed bottle, its delicate aromas of white flowers, blood orange gradually evolves to more kumquat, with delicious almond and yeasty flavours.

For starter, we have Pork Knuckle with 25 years Fruit Vinegar 廿五年果醋醉肘子 ($198). The chilled pork knuckle has been marinated in Mei Kuei Lu Chiew, showing a very rich and nice rose and wine fragrance, with a good bite especially on the skin. Paired with a 25-Year Aged Fruit Vinegar, the meaty knuckles are delicious and have an appetizing sweet and sourness.

For the soup, my wife has Double Boiled Fish Maw and Sea Cucumber 花膠燉遼參 ($580), with the clear yet intensely flavoured supreme soup very delicious and rich in umami. With a spiky sea cucumber and a large piece of fish maw, it is a premium soup but worth every single penny on its great taste and first-class ingredients.

For me, I have the Double Boiled Fish Maw and Sea Whelk 花膠燉響螺 ($340). Utilizing the same supreme soup, the sea cucumber is replaced by sea whelk, and as a result, the umami taste is even more intense. The sea whelk is also cut into strips to make it easier to eat and chew. A pure pleasure to enjoy the soup.  

Then comes Golden Frog Legs with Spicy Salt 椒鹽田雞腿 ($288). This is our favourite dish, with the frog legs coated with batter to deep-fry, meaty and not feeling a thick layer of batter. The seasoning of spicy salt is spot-on, flavourful but you will not overly spicy nor salty. The portion is also quite big, with about eight pieces so we can all savour to our satisfaction.

Finishing the Champagne, I have the second glass of wine, this time picking Chateau Talbot Caillou Blanc 2020 ($198). A blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, the wine is lively and aromatic, with a waxy texture and nice lemon, bit of grassy, white peach, and ginger notes.

Coming to the main dishes, the Wok-Fried Pork and Mixed Mushrooms with Homemade XO Chili Sauce XO 醬鮮菌爆黑豚 ($350) is very good, with the pork tender and not tough on the bite. The mixed mushrooms have different texture, with everything stir-fried together with a tasty XO sauce of slight spiciness and savoury delicious.

The next is Steamed Garoupa Fillet Roll with Sichuan Pepper and Fruit Vinegar 藤椒果醋蒸斑卷 ($480). The steamed fish fillet is put on top of a fried gluten, with plenty of spring onion and Sichuan pepper put on top before pouring in hot oil to add fragrance. With some soy sauce and fruit vinegar to provide savoury and acidity, it is a new twist to the traditional steamed fish with good effect.

The last one we have is Steamed Scallop with Crabmeat Roe and Tofu 蟹皇帶子蒸豆腐 ($230 half portion). The tofu is silky smooth, with a thick sauce poured on top, made with crabmeat and crab roes. With also the scallops on top and some Chinese kale on the side, it is a delicate dish but still rich in taste and flavours.  

The last wine I have is J. J. Prum Graacher Himmelreich Spatlese 2022 ($228). A slightly sweet wine with a nice flinty nose, the Riesling has very good acidity so it is refreshing and elegant, and it is a highly versatile wine for Chinese cuisine in my opinion.

For dessert I have Baked Sago Pudding with Pineapple and Custard Cream and Crispy Almond Chip 奶皇鳳梨焗西米布甸拼杏仁脆餅 ($86). The baked sago pudding is served in a cute mini-cup, with some pineapple pieces inside which provides a bit of sourness to balance the sweet custard cream. With a piece of crispy almond chip on top to provide a contrast in texture, a satisfying conclusion.

My wife has Double Boiled Sweetened Dried Longan Soup with Japanese Gingko Nuts and Peach Gum 紅棗桃膠燉日本銀杏 ($96). A more delicate dessert, with the soup appropriate in sweetness, and the healthy combination of gingko nuts, peach gum, and dried longan good for digestion.  

The Petits Fours are assortment of traditional dim sum, including deep-fried sesame ball, walnut biscuit, custard glutinous rice ball, sesame roll, matcha puff and lotus paste puff. Not only beautiful in different colours, the different texture of crunchy, chewy, crispy and soft are all testimony to the mastery of cooking by the chef and his team.  

Service is very good, with the staff friendly and attentive, and the sommelier is very professional and has offered good recommendation on wine pairing. The bill on the night is $4,026 which is reasonable considering the quality of the food, the impeccable dining experience, and the wonderful service. It remains one of our top favourites of Chinese restaurant in HK.

Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Zoku 族

Five years ago, when I was working in Wanchai this location was still in construction, and today it has become a chic hotel called The Hari. Today we come to its contemporary Japanese restaurant, to see what sort of different dining experience it has in store for us. By the way, the name means ‘clan’ in Japanese.

Stepping out the elevator the staff shows us to our table, a comfortable khaki velvet booth facing the terrace, where we can also sit outside but probably not in such cold weather. The design is hip, with an asymmetrical origami ceiling. The dim lightings and overall ambience remind me more of a Western diner though.

We order the Discovering Zoku 6 Course Tasting Menu ($888 each) and also a serving of Nabeshima Honjozo 鍋島特別本醸造 ($228). The Otoshi, which are small bites, include a Tartlet with Crab meat, Inka Potato puree at the bottom, and Ikura on top. The other is an interesting Crispy Rice burger with Wagyu tartar in between, and a Quail Egg on top. Both delicious.

Next comes the Pork Broth which contains Gobou Root as well as Leek. The hot soup helps to warm the stomach. I like it being not too salty, with the burdock providing some texture in the soup.

Then it is Kaishi, or starters. We have chosen Shima Aji, with the Striped Jack cut to thin slices and then added with Umeboshi, the common pickled ume, as well as Pickled Plum, to provide the acidity to freshen the palate. There are also some crunchy sea moss at the bottom. 

The other starter is Wagyu Tataki. The A4 Miyazaki Wagyu is torched and then sliced thinly, with a bit of Sudachi juice added, together with Ponzu, to add flavours to the beef. Among the two starters I like the beef more.

Next is the Sushi, and we have chosen Zoku Roll, with Asparagus and Avocado inside the rice roll, and  melting Cream Cheese on top, finishing with some caviar. The asparagus is tender and we don’t need to spit out any tough fibres.

The other sushi roll is Crab Roll, with the soft-shelled crab deep-fried before mixing with some Tobiko, Avocado, and Cucumber to wrap into the roll. The crunchy texture of the crab is pleasant, and not greasy from the deep-frying.  

Then comes to Otsumami, which means small plates. The first we choose is Tori Niku Gyoza, with the dumpling pan-fried nicely to golden-brown on both sides, having minced Chicken Thigh filling which is delicious and the Ringo Soy Sauce helping to add umami flavours.

The other one is Kinu Tofu, which means silk bean curd, with a very soft texture, served on a delicious Yuzu Tentsuyu, the dipping sauce commonly used for tempura. There is also a Seaweed Rice Cracker on top, crispy and adding umami flavours to the tofu.

Coming to the Mains, the Hamachi Kama is the grilled Yellowtail collar. The fish collar has been marinated with miso, good in taste, with the skin nicely charred. On the side are some Shishito, small Japanese peppers, with also Daikon Oroshi, or meshed radish to help balance the fish oil.

The other one is Kohitsuji Yaki or Chargrilled Lamb Chop. Tender and juicy, the chef has added a bit of sesame and spring onion to add further fragrance, as well as a Black Garlic Sauce for additional flavours. There are also some grilled broccolini on the side too.

For Desserts, we have Matcha Cake which is like a cheese cake mixed with matcha powder. Baked to a nice brown surface, on the side is White Chocolate Ice Cream. Appropriate in sweetness and gives a satisfying contentment.

The other one is Mochi Cake, with a nice ‘q’ texture and on top drizzled with some Miso Caramel to provide salty sweet flavours. On the side is Coconut Feuille, with the coconut ice-cream mixed with a crunchy biscuit crust together.

Also included in the menu is Coffee or Tea. The service is decent, with the staff friendly but not engaging enough. The bill on the night is $2,279 which is reasonable considering the amount of food we got and the quality is also good. A nice contemporary Japanese restaurant.