Wineshark Mystery Restaurant - Sushi Zinc

Hearing that Chef Zinc is going to compete in the TV program ‘Red Hot Chef’, today we came to Sushi Zinc to see whether we can hear some inside news before the show goes on air. Arriving at Shau Kei Wan, we are the first group, and able to chat with Chef Zinc a bit about the competition while he is preparing, but he did not reveal much...

Starting with a serving of くどき上手Jr. の摩訶不思議ちゃん 特A山田錦44 純米大吟醸 ($250). A very good sake for summertime with clean crispness. The sake originally has a rice polishing ratio of 45%, but Junior has adjusted to 44% this year, while keeping the same rice, and want his customers to see what the difference does it bring.  

The first course is a Summer Salad, featuring Nagano fruit tomato that has good sweetness and juicy. Chef Zinc also uses the tomato to ferment and make a paste to add on the side. Together with Akita Junsai, and some fresh lotus seeds from Zhejiang provided by his friend, on top is the local marigold leaves to give a bit of spiciness. Very refreshing.

The second course uses Madai. After cutting a few slices of the Japanese seabream, they are put on top of a rich and creamy white sauce, made from Shirako and fish bones. Further supplement with a condiment made from grounded grilled fish roes, the delicious umami from the sauce enhances the delicate taste of the seabream to another level. Fantastic.

The third course features Hyogo Kaki, big in size and having a creamy texture, with a richer metallic taste than the typical Japanese varieties. On the side Chef Zinc has prepared a green sauce made from Okinawa bitter melon, cucumber, lily bulb, and perilla, with nice fresh flavours to supplement the oyster.  

The fourth course is Fish Tempura, with the fish Chef Zinc mischievously saying that he would not introduce. The batter is very thin, crisp on the outside, while keeping the flesh moist. Paired with Oita Kabosu and seaweed salt, the sour mandarins provide a nice refreshing citrus note, perfect with the tempura.

The fifth course features Kinki. The channel rockfish is first poached in sake and dried overnight, before grilling to a beautiful golden brown on the surface, while the flesh remains moist and soft. The fish is already very tasty, and the sauce further adds wonders. Made from the fish bone, together with Hamaguri and fresh Sansho, it is supremely flavourful.

Before proceeding to sushi, I have my second sake, くどき上手Jr. の愛山33 ($250). Made from the Hyogo-grown Aizan rice with polishing ratio of 33%, the rice is ideal for sake brewing and regarded by many as a good competitor with Yamada Nishiki. The sake has a rich ripe fruit note, with a smooth mouthfeel, perfect with sushi rice.

The first piece of sushi features Fukuoka Shiro-Ika. Very beautifully cut, it is the first time I have seen someone cut the squid in such manner, with a great soft tender texture. Sprinkled with a bit of charcoal salt to season, the sweetness of the squid is impeccable.

Chef Zinc then takes out a new sushi plate with fish bones etched and shared that he would replace all the plates with this design in future, after getting them from a local craftsman. The second sushi comes from the local waters, caught near Po Toi, the Longfin Grouper has been aged for two weeks, with a rich fish taste and silky-smooth texture.

The third sushi features Yellowfin Seabream, also caught near Po Toi. Chef Zinc shares that this one was the best he has used this year, weighing almost 3 catties in size. The fish has been aged for three days, with a phenomenal texture and delicate taste. Amazing.

The fourth sushi continues to feature local fish, Thread-Sail Filefish. Unlike most of the Japanese Kawahagi, the local ones are wild, without the process to farm it briefly to fatten its liver. Using a piece of the liver and put in between the meat and sushi rice, this is another gorgeous sushi on the night.

The fifth sushi features the local Star Snapper, caught near Po Toi again. Chef Zinc has used the fish innards and bones to prepare the shoyu to add to the taste of the fish, like the way the fish oil seeps into the flesh from the traditional steaming process. Rich in taste and silky smooth on texture, another great one.

Taking a break from the sushi, Chef Zinc has used some small Star Snapper to prepare a rich and intense stock, as ingredients to make Chawanmushi. The steamed egg custard is silky, with amazing flavours, on top there is a fish oil extraction, made together with shallot, spring onion and ginger. Very tasty, there is an interesting satay flavour as well.

Next is perhaps the course that impresses me the most in the evening. The local Long-Neck Mantis Shrimp is lightly poached before deep-frying in tempura style, with the amber-coloured fat seemingly oozing from the body. Again, the batter is very thin, barely discernible. Super sweet in taste without dipping the seaweed salt. A blessing able to enjoy them.

Then comes Grilled Ayu. Chef Zinc has taken the innards and the bones out, ferment them to a paste, and then brushed it back onto the sweetfish before grilling. The whole fish can be eaten, even the head, with a slight bitter taste but completely edible. On the side are the pickled seasonal wild vegetables. All the signature summer delicacies in one dish.

Coming to my third sake serving, this time it is くどき上手 酒未來 純米吟釀. The famous sake rice is first developed by the renown brewery Takagi, the producer of Juyondai. This sake has a floral note with a nice, sweet taste but keeping a refreshing palate, to match with the next part of the sushi.

Taking out a flag and putting on the wall, Chef Zinc introduces the sixth sushi, the first Sanma of the year. While the Pacific Saury is not that fatty yet, in terms of freshness, it is impeccable, with its silvery sheen skin already gets my mouth watering. It is good fortune we get to be the group to enjoy the first catch.

The seventh sushi features Tokishirazu, the special chum salmon that is caught in the season, outside the typical spawning time. With a good fat content and tender texture, Chef Zinc has lightly marinated with shoyu, before smoking it briefly to impart aromatic flavours, with the taste truly memorable and no wonder a prized seasonal offering. Not to be missed.

The eighth sushi is served inside a bowl, featuring some nice Hokkaido Shiro-Uni. The white sea urchin has a soft and creamy texture, fresh and flavourful, of nice sweetness with also hints of seawater on the taste.

The ninth sushi features the special cut Jabara, the fattiest part of the O-Toro, with the signature strips pattern like the belly of a snake. Having aged for three weeks, the tendon has been softened, easy to chew. The intense flavours are highly appealing, and for many it is regarded as the best part of tuna.

The tenth sushi continues with tuna, but this time using the lean portion to prepare the Akami, with a richer metallic taste that has been balanced with shoyu, the umami is very nice. For me, the best Akami Zuke is even more appealing than O-Toro. However, tonight both pieces are very good so I cannot pick the one I like more.

Still feeling up to it, I have my fourth sake serving on the night, going for くどき上手 大吟醸 澱がらみ ($250). The sake has a nice floral note, mellow and fruity, with a more full-body palate that is good to wrap up the dinner with the last few courses.

Knowing that Chef Zinc has specially prepared Shinko ($200) on the night, I immediately ask for one. The handling of the Baby Gizzard Shad takes lots of effort, from removing the tiny bones of the small fish, to the marinade in salt and vinegar, and its super high price, makes it very special to have it served. Personally, I prefer it a bit more sour but still very good.

Then comes Tamagoyaki, and Chef Zinc has shaved an abundance of Australian black truffle on top. Using three different types of mushrooms in the mixture, the egg pancake has a fluffy texture, with also intense flavours of the mushroom that is further reinforced by the black truffle. But even on its own the egg pancake is already phenomenal.

To warm the stomach, Chef Zinc has used the collar of the same type of mysterious fish, along with the bones and fins, to prepare a Soup. Very delicious with amazing umami flavours, a bit of Kabosu juice is also added to freshen up the palate.

The dessert is Tiramisu, made from Hojicha foam, with some chocolate shavings on top. The toasty and nutty flavours are very nice, with the sweetness tuned to the right level to match with what the local HK people prefer. A satisfying conclusion of the meal.

Service is great as always, and we have good interactions with Chef Zinc throughout, while we are frequent customers, it does not mean Chef Zinc will forget the others. The bill on the night is $6,325. It is another great evening, and I look forward to the next visit, and wish Chef Zinc do well in the competition!