This Cantonese restaurant has been awarded Michelin 1-star since 2011 for fourteen consecutive years, showing the high quality of its food. Their abalone is certainly the most famous, with the owner Mr. Yung (Ah Yung) recognized as a master of abalone. Today is our second visit after four years, when the city was still in the midst of COVID.
Greeted warmly by the staff, we are shown to our table. Apart from the main dining hall there are various VIP rooms on the side. The décor has not changed, with a neat, relatively simple ambience and not having unnecessary extravagance. I like the paintings and calligraphy which decorates the walls.
We order the Star Specialities Menu ($3,380 each). The first course is Braised Shark’s Fin in Brown Sauce 紅燒砂鍋包翅. Served in a sizzling hot claypot, the shark’s fin needles are quite thick, with the broth delicious, apparently made from many ingredients boiling for long hours. It is appropriate in thickness too, not too watery or gluey. With a bit of shredded Chinese ham and bean sprouts added, a great start of the meal. Very good.
The second course is Braised Aohu Dried Abalone (12 ppk) 12 頭奧戶網鮑. The farmed abalone actually comes from Hawaii, with the original breed coming from Japan Ezo abalone. Fairly large in size, the abalone is cooked perfectly, with a sweet core, intense in abalone flavours, and quite similar to the premium Iwate abalone. The sauce is also spot-on, with the flavours complementary to the abalone and full of umami. Unstoppable. Excellent.
Served alongside the abalone is the third course, Poached Chinese Lettuce 鮑魚汁生菜膽. Taking the most tender part of the lettuce, the vegetable is poached perfectly, crunchy on the texture. Adding a bit of the abalone sauce adds the necessary savoury and umami to the lettuce and while it might look simple, delivering to perfection is a testimony of the skill and attention of the chef to the full extend. Very good.
The fourth course is Crispy Whole Fish Maw 脆皮原隻花膠. The fish maw has been dipped in a batter before deep-fried, having a crisp thin layer and not feeling excessively greasy. The fish maw is large in size, but because it does not have taste on its own, the dish is quite bland. Even adding the abalone sauce on the side, it is not too particularly tasty. A bit disappointed, it might be better if they change to something else in future. Decent.
It takes quite a while before the fifth course comes. The Deep-fried Crispy Pigeon 金牌脆皮燒乳鴿 is freshly made, with the chef marinated the pigeon and then dipping in hot oil repeatedly to deep fry. The skin is very crispy while the meat is tender and not overcooked, rich in flavours and no need to use any of the dipping salt or Worcestershire sauce. There is an option of picking chicken instead of pigeon too. Very good.
The sixth course is Fried Rice with Shrimp and BBQ Pork 生蝦叉燒炒飯. The fried rice is prepared in the serving counter on one side, with each grain of rice distinct. The ingredients include shrimp, BBQ pork, scallop, roasted duck, and scallions. Seasoned beautifully, the rice is another highlight in the menu, and even though we are quite full we finish the whole serving without problem, and eager for more. Excellent.
The seventh course is Stewed Superior Bird’s Nest 原盅清燉官燕. The bird’s nest is served in a bowl with the almond juice, coconut juice, and syrup provided on the side, so that we can add based on our preference. Enjoying this premium dessert is a treat, with good amount of bird’s nest and the juice rich in flavours, apparently freshly made in-house. I suggest a mix of both the almond and coconut juice for best effect. Very good.
The Dessert 精美甜點兩款 includes Walnut Cookie 合桃酥 and Coconut Bar 椰汁糕. The walnut cookie is fantastic, with a crunchy texture and appropriate in sweetness, dry and not feeling greasy. The coconut bar is also spot on in its sweetness, with the soft cake adding some split peas to increase the texture. Both snacks are very good, and finish our meal on a happy note.
In addition, the manager offers us a Fresh Papaya to finish the meal. Coming together is a wedge of lemon, and after squeezing some lemon juice in, I am surprised to find that the special papaya note has disappeared, making it much fresher and for someone who does not like papaya (like me), this is a good way to enjoy the fruit. Very good.
Service is good, but some of the staff are too focused on catering to a regular customer. I was also a bit upset how much time we have to wait for the pigeon, and it is only when I show my black face the manager becomes aware and follow up. Something to improve. The bill on the night is $7,535. A lot of very good dishes, and Ah Yung is truly a master of abalone.
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