Since my last visit two years ago I have been looking for
the next occasion to return and savour again their wonderful and creative
cuisine, but it is getting so difficult to book that I almost gave up. A few
weeks ago, seeing an available spot online, I immediately grasped the
opportunity. And so, at the beginning of 2025, I come to The Wellington in
Central, with a lot of anticipation what Executive Chef Vicky Cheng has
prepared again.
Seated at the same table last time, there is no change in
the décor, with the space offering a cozy, neat and comfortable ambience. I
have pre-ordered the Premium Tasting Menu ($2,980 each) but also adds two other
optional items, as well as going for the Premium 6-glass wine pairing ($2,780).
As the Winter Solstice was only two weeks prior, Chef Cheng
has prepared a Housemade Snow Fungus and Fig Tea as welcome drink to sooth the
throat against the dry and cold weather. With a tiny bit of sweetness, the tea
is delicate and smooth.
雪耳無花果茶
The first wine served to pair with the four appetizers
is Krug Grande Cuvee 172eme Edition. The base vintage of this champagne is
2019, with a beautiful golden colour and consistent fine bubbles, showing a
crisp floral, citrus and hints of gingerbread on the nose, and nice hazelnut,
brioche and honey on the palate.
The first of the four starters is
蟶子配雲南皺皮椒及海茸 featuring Razor Clams, thinly sliced
which looks a bit like garlic pieces. On top of the crunchy razor clams are the
shredded Yunnan Chili which provides a bit of spicy kick, as well as Bull Kelp,
a type of seaweed with a nice bite and adds umami to the dish.
The second one is
香辣日本蠔伴自製黃金皮蛋, a rather unique combination. Featuring the
signature Golden Crystal Egg, the housemade century egg, the chef has added Chili
Japanese Oyster, with the creamy oyster marinated in housemade chili oil to
give a kick and also balance the briny flavours of oyster. A stimulating starter to
excite the palate.
The third one
煙燻酸汁茄子 is a piece of art. The Smoked Eggplant is
prepared using applewood to give a nice fragrance, cut into strips and then
intertwined together beautifully like a braid. With a Housemade Sour Sauce on top to season,
the acidity is appetizing, and the eggplant is soft and pleasant in taste.
The fourth one is Drunken Kuruma Prawn
醉花竹蝦, with the very large
tiger prawn marinated in 20-year Chinese Huatiao wine, allowing the rich and
fragrant aromas to seep into the body of the prawn, but not getting too bitter
to affect its sweet taste. A good example of how the chef has mastered the
timing and strength of the marinade.
To enjoy more the delicious housemade chili oil, the
restaurant has thoughtfully arranged a small bunch of Cold Noodles for us. The
texture is very al dente, with the slight kick of the spiciness enough to
excite but not overpowering the palate, and the portion is not too filling as
well.
The second wine is Domaine Jean Chartron Puligny-Montrachet
Premier Cru Clos de la Pucelle 2017. A monopole just adjacent to the two grand
cru Batard-Montrachet and Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet, this wine has a complex
aroma, with a bit more honeysuckle on top of the elegance. The fuller body also
matches well with the stinky tofu.
One of the additional dishes I pre-ordered is Stinky Tofu
Tiger Prawn Toast
臭豆腐虎蝦多士 ($180). Stinky tofu, a local traditional snack, is rarely
seen nowadays. Here the bouncy prawn patty is stuffed into the tofu before
deep-frying, and provided on the side are the chili bean sauce, with the taste adjusted
by Chef Cheng, and Chinese sweet sauce, the two perfect companion to go with
stinky tofu. The crunchy surface and delicious taste are truly memorable. A
must-order in my opinion.
Next comes the Hot and Sour Soup
檬香山瑞裙邊酸辣湯. The traditional Shanghai
style soup has some fresh crab meat to give a delicate sweetness, with the
crunchy Soft-Shell Turtle skirts to add to the texture. The staff then takes
the locally grown perfume lemon and shaves some Lemon Zest on top to add a refreshing
aroma. The soup is very flavourful, of the appropriate thickness, and having
the right balance of spiciness and acidity. Perfect in all scores.
The third wine is Egon-Muller Scharzhofberger Spatlese 2021
from Mosel in Germany. The slightly sweet Riesling has intense flavours to
match well with the stronger taste of the threadfin, while still having good
acidity to make the wine refreshing. The sommelier also prepares the wine
slightly warmer in order not to highlight any fishy notes.
Coming to the main courses, the first one
陳皮豆豉蒸馬友 highlights the
seasonal local Threadfin Ma Yau, with the chef picking only the largest ones,
weighing over 12 catties. After steaming the fish fillet, some shredded
spring onion, leek, and coriander are put on top. The sauce on the bottom is made using Mandarin
Peel aged over 20 years, mixed with Fermented Black Bean, bringing a wonderful
fragrance and savoury flavours to add to the delicious fish.
The fourth wine is Anne & Jean-Francois Ganevat Chateau
Chalon 2016 from Jura in France. This vin jaune wine is made from Savagnin, with the
unique oxidative ageing aromas reminded me a bit of the Chinese Huatiao, but
with better acidity. A great companion to pair with crab dishes.
Next comes Fragrant Chili Alaskan King Crab
香辣阿拉斯加皇帝蟹配煎腸粉. The meaty king
crab leg is steamed with garlic to serve, and then some crab meat is used to prepare a
slightly spicy sauce, assembled together with pan-fried Crispy Cheung Fun, with the
rice noodle taking the flavours of the sauce and in my opinion tastes even
better than the crab meat.
The fifth wine is Domaine des Perdrix Echezeaux Grand Cru
2019. A beautiful ruby red colour, the wine has nice red fruit aromas of
strawberry and cherries, with some spiciness reminding me of mint and liquorice,
with a mellow tannin. A great pairing as I think it is tricky to match
with sea cucumber spring roll. But this Pinot Noir has able to enrich the
umami flavours successfully.
Before the next course the staff brings the Australia Sea
Cucumber to show us the original shape before its lengthy 7-day
soaking process. Then comes the large beautiful golden-brown Spring Roll
蔥燒婆參春卷, where
the staff helps to cut in half for us. Inside the crispy spring roll is the
braised whole sea cucumber, glueing, thick and seasoned well. Underneath is some
grilled Spring Onion together with a delicious sauce.
The sixth and last wine is Paul Jaboulet Aine Hermitage La
Chapelle 1999. This wine is ex-domaine and only released for two years, with
good freshness despite its old age, showing nice black fruit, leather and
pepper, which goes well with the pigeon.
Then it is another signature of the restaurant
煙燻蔗汁乳鴿. Upon opening
the lid the smoke seeps out, showing the Baby Pigeon which has been marinated
for three days, with the chef brushing some Sugarcane juice on the skin to give
a bit of sweetness and colour, before smoking it over sugarcane with nice
fragrance. The pigeon is juicy and tender, rich in flavours and finger-licking
good in taste.
The other optional dish I have added is Stuffed Fresh Oyster
薑蔥炒金蠔釀鮮蠔煲 ($200). Served in a sizzling hot Pot, a Semi-Dried Oyster is stuffed inside the
fresh oyster, to allow the richer taste of the semi-dried oyster to integrate
with the softer fresh oyster. Together with plenty of Spring Onion and Ginger,
it is great in smell and taste. Another must-try.
Even the vegetable has a thoughtful twist. The Stir-Fry Baby
Mustard Green
鹹白肉炒芥菜苗 has been added with some housemade Salted Pork, which has
marinated for one month. We are suggested to eat the salted pork first, to coat
the delicious savoury taste in the mouth, before eating mustard green, giving a
nice fragrance and flavours to season the vegetable, which is young and tender,
without any tough fibre on the bite.
The last one before dessert is Sliced Dried Abalone Chicken
Soup Noodle
乾鮑絲濃雞湯麵. The chicken soup is very rich, with the noodle al dente in texture. With the shredded spring onion
whites and the dried abalone to add to fragrance and a savoury taste, it brings
the whole noodle to another level of satisfaction. Very delicious and helps to fill the stomach.
Before dessert the staff brings a cart to us,
introducing the different fruit on the day, reminding me how we have similar
service for cheese in a French restaurant. The three fruit we have on the day
includes Thailand Ruby Pomelo, which are very sweet and juicy; Guangxi Mandarin,
which can be eaten with the crunchy skin; and the Japanese Pear which is very sweet. The fruit can also be encored if desired.
For dessert, it is a premium Bird’s Nest Bean Curd Sweet
Soup
燕窩銀杏腐竹露. Appropriate in sweetness, there is a generous amount of bird’s nest, with
also almond tofu in the soup, as well as Gingko Nut, giving a bit more contrast in
texture and health benefits to the dessert.
The Mignardises
餐後茶點 include Black Sesame Glutinous Rice Cake and
Salted Egg Custard Donut. Both of the snacks are very delicious, not too sweet.
The donut has a soft dough with the salted egg custard filling very creative and tasty.
The rice cake is equally delicious with the sesame fragrant and rich. A
very contented finale to a fantastic meal.
Service is very good, with the staff friendly and attentive,
eager to explain each of the course and wine pairing in details, as well as the background of the restaurant and the story of Chef Cheng. The bill on
the night is $10,741 and even though it is not cheap, I would say every
penny is worthy, with the quality of the food and wine impeccable. No
wonder it is one of the most difficult restaurants to book nowadays.