This Cantonese restaurant at Four Seasons Hotel in Central has been awarded Michelin 3-star status for 14 consecutive years, under the helm of Executive Chef Chan Yan Tak, who is the first Chinese chef in the world to be awarded the prestigious recognition. Returning tonight, it is with great anticipation since my last visit was already five years ago.
After a warm greeting the staff showed us to our table on the side room, which commands a great harbour view with Ocean Terminal as background. The interior décor has not changed, with nice wooden floor, comfortable seats, and spacious tables, sufficiently spaced apart to allow intimate private conversations.
To start off is a complimentary amuse bouche, Cauliflower and Capsicum. The crunchy texture of the cauliflower shows it has been cooked perfectly, infused with black truffle vinegar to bring its unique aromas but not overpowering. The sweetness of the capsicum helps to balance the appetizing sourness of the cauliflower. Very nice starter.
The first course we ordered is Marinated Red Jellyfish with Pork Knuckle 紅蜇頭伴燻蹄 ($400). The pork knuckle slices are very delicious, with complex flavours of the marinade permeating on the bite. The red jellyfish has a super crunchy texture, having been marinated with Zhejiang vinegar. One of the best pork knuckles I have eaten.
The second course was Crispy Frog Legs with Spicy Salt 椒鹽田雞腿 ($360). My favourite in the evening, the meaty frog legs have been beautifully deep-fried, with a thin batter just coating the meat. The frog legs are very well-seasoned with the spicy salt, but not excessive resulting in a thirsty feeling despite after eating many pieces. The best touch is the deep-fried small whitebaits which has a crunchy texture and adding extra umami flavours. A must order in my opinion.
For the soup, I had the Braised Goose Soup with Shredded Fish Maw and Conpoy 花膠絲瑤柱燒鵝羹 ($400). The soup base is very delicious, prepared using old chicken and Yunnan ham, with rich umami taste. There are also plenty of shredded fish maw, conpoy and roasted goose to give different texture on the bite, some chives to add to the aromas, each element helps to give further supplements to the complex flavours. Another very good offering.
On the main dish, we decided to go for some seasonal offering. The Scrambled Egg White with Air-Dried Seafood and Yunnan Ham 海味炒蛋白 ($720) has the soft, silky scrambled egg white nicely seasoned, adding plenty dried seafood like shrimp and squid with their signature umami flavours, as well as sea cucumber and finely shredded Yunnan ham. With some deep-fried rice noodle underneath, a premium dish that delivers in all aspects. Fantastic.
The other seasonal dish was Chicken Casserole with Chinese Yam, Sea Cucumber and Chinese Mushroom 鮮淮山北菇遼參雞球煲 ($620). What I like for this dish was how the chef has made the sauce just thick enough to coat the ingredients but not gluey, with its flavours helped to complement the mild taste of the sea cucumber and Chinese yam, without making the chicken or mushroom too salty. Another dish which might seem simple, but doing it right is a testimony to the skills of the chef. Delicious.
For dessert I had Chilled Milk Pudding with Pomegranate and Strawberry 石榴紅梅鮮奶布甸 ($350), which also paired with a glass of Chateau La Roulerie Coteaux du Layon 1er Cru Chaume 2020. The pudding is appropriate in sweetness, silky smooth in texture, with fragrant strawberry and pomegranate flavours. A good finale to the meal.
Service is very good, and I am particularly impressed with sommelier Bernard Chan who shared his passion with us not only on wine but also how he worked with a local NGO to develop a sparkling tea for non-alcohol drinkers. The bill on the night was $4,767 with two additional glasses of wine. In view of the total experience, it is very reasonable, and no wonder the restaurant continues to be awarded the most prestigious award all these years.
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