2013年5月25日 星期六

Chateau Haut-Bages Liberal


Chateau Haut-Bages Liberal is located on the Bages plateau, which is named after the family that owned the land in the 16th century, between the two towns of Pauillac and St-Julien-Beychevelle. The land is on a gravelly rise, offering a good look at the Gironde.

On this plateau there are numerous chateaux including Lynch-Bages, Croizet-Bages, Cordeillan-Bages, Haut-Bages-Averous and Haut-Bages Liberal. Chateau Haut-Bages Liberal lies at the top of the plateau.

The Liberal family, who were wine brokers, established the estate as their home in the 18th century, subsequently giving their name to the property. The wine they produced was of good quality and was ranked as a fifth growth in the 1855 classification.

But afterwards the vineyard fell into neglect, compounded by the vine disease, the wars and economic recession. In the 1960 it was acquired by the Societe Civile Charreules, which was operated under the Cruse dynasty, and some vineyards close to Pontet-Canet had been sold later on.

The new owners replanted some vineyards and erected wine-making facilities with new equipment, and started chateau-bottling. The estate was sold in 1982, to Jacques Merlaut, adding to his portfolio of the Taillan Group, including Chasse-Spleen and Gruaud-Larose, Ferriere and La Gurgue.

Now under Claire Villars Lurton, whose husband Gonzague Lurton is the owner of Durfort-Vivens, who decided to focus on Ferriere, Haut-Bages Liberal and another new property in St-Estephe called Domeyne.

There are three vineyards under Chateau Haut-Bages Liberal, all under the Pauillac commune. The largest lies just across the road from Chateau Latour, with the another just behind Pichon-Baron. The third plot is further inland, adjacent to Grand-Puy-Lacoste, totally covering 30 ha.

The average vine age is now 35 years, with 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot. Manually harvest, fermentation is done in temperature-controlled stainless steel and concrete vats before going into 40% new oak barrels for 16 months. The grand vin has a production of about 9000 cases per annum, and a second wine La Chapelle de Bages of 6500 cases is produced as well.

I have recently tasted the 2004 vintage and below is my tasting note:

Good quality Pauillac, with a deep ruby color and reasonably intense nose, showing developing aromas of blackberry and blackcurrant, cedar, coffee, earth, cream, liquorice and tobacco. It has a good acidity, balancing well with the good tannin though it is still a bit gripping despite 9 years after vintage. The wine is quite full-bodied and the palate is of fair concentration with flavors of blackberry and blackcurrant, plum, leather, cedar. With a reasonable finish, this is a wine showing typical Bordeaux characters but may not have particular strengths which stood out. Ready to drink now but can benefit from further ageing of another 3-5 years.

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