2013年2月13日 星期三

Chateau Magdelaine


The Chatonnet family owned part of this property for around two centuries, which by the late 19th century it was recorded to have four separate proprietors, but the Chatonnet family had owned the majority, and that portion also became Chateau Magdelaine of today.

The quality was very good, in the ranks of Ausone, Belair, Clos Fourtet, often regarded as the third best. But after the devastation of phylloxera, oidium and war the estate dropped in standards, until in 1952 when it was acquired by Jean-Pierre Moueix, not long after the purchase of La Fleur-Petrus in Pomerol, did the estate see some changes.

The vineyards now cover 11 ha and are close to the town of St-Emilion, with 6 ha on the classic limestone terroir of the St Martin plateau. The balances are on slopes running down towards the Dordogne, with more clay. Until 2012 it has been a Premier Grand Cru Classe, neighbors to Belair and Canon.

Majority of the vines are planted in 1976, but some dates back to 1921, with average ages of 40 years. 90% is Merlot and 10% is Cabernet Franc, with a standard planting density of 6000 vines per ha. Harvested by hand, with yield of 40 hl/ha, the wine is fermented in stainless steel vats with maceration up to four weeks.

After malolactic fermentation it goes into oak for up to 20 months, using 50% new oak on each vintage. No fining or filtration is carried out. The grand vin production is approximately 3000 cases, with a second wine Les Sanges de Magdelaine of 2000 cases, produced from vines closer to Dordogne and younger.

In lighter years it has a juicy fruit and easy to drink at 4-5 years old but in exceptional years it may take 15 years. It is often regarded as the most feminine in St-Emilion.

I have recently tasted the 1998 vintage and can understand why people said it is feminine. My tasting notes:

Good quality St-Emilion of medium garnet color, the aromas are reasonably intense and complex, showing blackberry and dark plum, liquorice, savory, farmyard, toast and earth. Good acidity, the tannin is ripe and silky in texture. The wine has a medium body and has a feminine and faily intense palate showing blackberry and dark plum, toast, cinnamon and wet leaves. With a fairly long finish, it is ready to drink now and not intend for further ageing.

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