The
Lurtons took ownership of Chateau Desmirail during the 20th century,
gaining full control in 1981 when acquiring the final portion of the vineyards
from Chateau Palmer. The story began with the vast Rauzan estate, created by
Pierre des Mesures de Rauzan, who in 1661 purchased a large portion of the
Medoc around Cantenac.
One of the
most significant of the early proprietors was Jean Desmirail, who acquired the
land at the end of the 17th century as part of a dowry, brought by
one of the Rauzan daughters. He gave his name to the property, and his
descendants maintained ownership until the 19th century.
By the
time of the 1855 classification it had passed to a Monsieur Sipiere, who was
also manager of Chateau Margaux. In 1860 he added a chateau to the estate, but
in 1905 it was passed to Robert Mendelssohn, a banker from Berlin and nephew of
the great composer.
Because
of the German ownership, it was seized at the outbreak of hostilities in 1914,
came into the hands of Martial Michel, a glove manufacturer. In 1938 he sold
the chateau to Paul Zuger of Marquis d’Alesme Becker, and the vineyards and the
name of Desmirail to Chateau Palmer.
As a
result, the estate was broken up, with the original chateau still part of Marquis
d’Alesme Becker, with the current buildings acquired by Lucien Lurton after he
bought the vineyards in 1981. During 1938 to 1981 the vineyards were harvested
alongside Palmer, and Desmirail did not exist independently.
Lucien
recreated the estate and started the first vintage in 1981, and by 1992 he
passed to his son Denis, who remained in charge till today. The vineyards have gravelly
soils typical to Medoc, with areas of sand and clay. Approximately 30 hectares
of estate, with vines aged over 25 years on average, planted with 60% Cabernet
Sauvignon, 39% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc.
The
fruit is hand-harvested before going to a sorting table in the vineyard, and
then it will be destemmed, lightly crushed and then fermented according to plot.
The must is pumped over during fermentation, with the temperature regulated
around 30 degC, with subsequent maceration.
The wine
is then run off into vats for malolactic, and then tasted to assign either to the
grand vin Chateau Desmirail or the second wine Initial de Desmirail. The grand
vin is aged in oak for 12-18 months, with one-third of the barrels new. Racking
is done every three months, with fining by egg white prior to bottling.
I have
recently tasted the 2003 vintage and below is my tasting note:
Appearance
Bright
and clear, deep intensity ruby in color, with garnet rims and legs.
Nose
Clean,
with medium intensity of black fruit such as cassis, blackberry and plum,
maturity notes of savory and forest floor, animal notes of meat, oak notes of
cedar, MLF notes of cream. The wine is developing.
Palate
Dry,
with medium acidity, medium (+) tannin of ripe and velvety texture, the wine
has a medium alcohol and a medium (+) body, with medium intensity of black
fruit such as dark cherries, blackberry and plum, dairy notes of cream, oak
notes of cedar. The wine has a medium finish.
Conclusion
Good
quality Margaux with reasonable concentration on the nose and good complexity,
the wine has a fine and elegant structure, with typical Margaux finesse on the
palate. It has a nice, soft style with reasonable length on the finish but nothing
really stood out to bring the wine to a higher level. Ready to drink now, the
wine can further develop for another 2-3 years. 
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