2016年2月19日 星期五

Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Brasserie on the Eighth

This French restaurant is located on the 8th floor of Conrad Hotel in Admiralty, with an open kitchen located on one side of the restaurant so that you could watch how the chefs prepare the dishes while you are dining. The atmosphere is cozy but not extravagant, with comfortable chairs and a coat rack beside our table, which is handy as the weather has been cold and we were all wearing some heavy jackets.

Seated at a corner beside the windows, there was not much of a view but we could see a glimpse of the Timar playground with all the lights from the rides. The night was fairly quiet and there were not many diners. We quickly decided to go for the degustation menu and I also opted for the wine pairing.

The first was an aperitif called Cannes d'Or, which was a mix of fruit juice with some passion fruit seeds. Quite a refreshing start but a bit too sweet for me, the starter for me was Alaskan crab meat salad with mango and home-made seafood sauce, while Ivy went for pan-seared foie gras with caramelized apples and blueberry sauce. I also had the 2013 Vincent de la Porte Tradition from Sancerre to pair.

Although it may look simple, the taste for the salad was really good. The crab meat was full of flavor and delicate, and the sauce and mango provided the acidity to make this such an appetizing dish that I finished in no time. Similarly Ivy's dish was also fantastic.

For the soup I had chosen homemade lobster bisque while Ivy had the veloute of onion. The lobster bisque is nice, though not particularly impressive, Even though I did not try the onion soup it seemed quite thick, and maybe too thick. A bit disappointing, but probably that was also due to the high standard from the appetizers.

My main course was roasted seabass 'Provencal style' with ratatouille, spinach and pine nuts, paired with the 2010 Chapelle de Potensac from Medoc, while Ivy got the grilled US Creekstone striploin 'chateau style' and grilled Australian king prawn with herbs butter. A strange choice for wine pairing, as I would imagine they would go for a white or something less tannic, and obviously it did not go well. But just like the appetizers, the main course was delicious. The seabass was beautifully seasoned as well as the spinach and mixed vegetable. The dish were also of good portion, so we both felt fairly full.

Dessert was Rectangle Fraicheur with passion fruit coulis and lemon sherbet. The flavors are quite good, but because the presentation was not kind of plain. The wine paired was a 2011 Petit Verdrines. Not having sufficient sweetness to pair with the dessert, though by itself the wine was quite refreshing with good acidity.

The general impressive overall was that this restaurant went for a no-frill style without too fancy decoration on the plate, but going for the flavors provided to diners. I believe this philosophy is encouraging but might be a bit disappointing if someone came with the goal to impress others. On service it was quite nice, but I would expect more introductions of the dishes and the ingredients, plus checking in with us during the meal and not in the end, especially given the restaurant was quite on the night.

Finally for the price, the bill totaled $1,853 after a 20% discount from using the specified credit card. Considering the environment and food, Brasserie on the Eighth could not give you a wow in both. If without such discount I would even rate this restaurant as too pricey.

My overall rating for the restaurant is 73/100.

2016年2月12日 星期五

Domaine Jean Grivot

History

The family originated from Jura, and at the end of 18th century Joseph Grivot sold his vineyards in the Hautes Cotes to settle in Vosne-Romanee. His son Gaston developed the domaine, and in 1919 bought a large parcel in Clos de Vougeot.

Gaston was also one of the first graduates from Dijon University on oenology, followed by his son Jean a few years later. Jean acquired a parcel in Richebourg in 1984 and was succeeded by his son Etienne in 1987.

Etienne studied viti- and viniculture in Beaune, and also got work experience in California and other parts of France.

Vineyards

The average vine age is 40 years, with planting-out, only replacing vine stock when one died. Planting density is high at 11,000 vines per hectare, contributing to low yields and the vine roots having to dig deep into the sub-soils for nutrients and water. A very low amount of organic fertilizer is used, without any weed-killer.

The soils are ploughed and sustainable organic farming practices are conducted. Green harvesting is done every year with a slight amount of leaf-removal depending on the aspect of the plot. The harvest date is determined by regular visit and check on the vineyards, sampling  and analysis of grapes.

Winemaking

The grapes are sorted in the vat house and only perfectly ripe and healthy grapes are kept, with 95% destalking. The harvest is transferred to the vats using small trolleys to maintain fruit integrity. Juice is cooled to undergo a pre-fermentation maceration between 4-6 days.

Fermentation is with indigenous yeast and daily re-circulation is carried out with check on temperature and density, with the process lasting 17 days. Each year the winemaking process is adapted to the profile of the vintage.

The wine is matured in French oak for 18 months, a third of which are new in general but also depends on vintage, with around 25% for villages appellation, 30-60% for premier crus and 40-70% for grand crus. During maturing the wine is racked twice on average, and then blended in the vats before bottling without fining or filtration according to moon’s movement and atmospheric pressure, in the estate.

I have recently tasted the 2003 Nuits-St-Georges 1er Cru Ronciere and below is my tasting note:

Appearance
Bright and clear, it has light ruby color, with wide garnet rims and legs.

Nose
Clean, with medium intensity aromas of red fruit of raspberry and cherry, black fruit of plum, mineral notes of earth, oak notes of smoke, kernel notes of dark chocolate, maturity notes of mushroom. The wine is developing.

Palate
Dry with medium (+) acidity, the wine has medium tannin of ripe and silky in texture, medium alcohol and medium (-) body, demonstrating medium intensity of flavors including red fruit of raspberry and cherry, oak notes of smoke, mineral notes of earth, herbal notes of tobacco leaf. The wine has a medium (+) length.

Conclusion

Good quality Nuits-St-Georges with a decent intensity on the nose showing nice complexity, the wine is elegant, balanced with good structure, having quite robust tannin despite its age, and the palate has reasonable concentration and a fairly long finish. Ready to drink now, it can benefit from further ageing of another 3-5 years.

Chateau d'Armailhac

History

In 1680 there was records for two brothers Dominique and Guilhem Armailhacq who owned parcels of land in Pauillac. In 1750 there was another register for Dominique who planted vines in his family estate, covering 15-16 hectares.

In late 18th century the vineyard was generally called Mouton d’Armailhacq, spanning 52 hectares between Brane-Mouton in the north and Pibran in the south. Because of using techniques like topping-up, running-off, barrel disinfection and fining, the wines from Mouton d’Armailhacq were selling twice as much as neighboring estates.

In 1844 Madame Darmailhacq had to sell the estate because of debt. The estate was classified a fifth growth in the 1855 ranking, and Armand d’Armailhac published a learned treatise on vinegrowing and winemaking in the Medoc.

In 1878 Comte Adrien de Ferrand, son-in-law of Armailhacq, acquired the estate. By 1930 the estate was weakened because of a series of mildew, phylloxera, over-production, wars. Comte de Ferrand decided to create a company in 1931 and young Baron Philippe de Rothschild became a minor shareholder, who in 1933 acquired all the shares to become the effective owner.

In 1956 the estate was renamed Mouton Baron Philippe, and then Mouton Baronne Philippe until vintage 1988. In 1989 Baroness Philippine decided to restore its original identity and rename it d’Armailhac.

Vineyards

The estate covers 70 hectares in the northern part of Pauillac, on the extension of the plateau of Carruades de Mouton, with light and very deep gravelly soil resting on a clay-limestone sub-soil. The vineyard is planted with 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot, with average vine age of 46 years.

Planting density is high at 10,000 vines per hectare, with each vinegrower responsible for a particular parcel, plus regular earthing up, ploughing back and screefing to aerate the soils. Key decision of when to harvest is prepared by analytical and research laboratory, which also monitors Chateau Mouton Rothschild, with daily verification on grape ripeness parcel by parcel.

Picking is carried out entirely by hand, with each variety of grape taken from each parcel to the vat room separately. The grapes are entirely destemmed. Vinification methods are adjusted to suit each vintage according to the characteristics of each vatting, with 23 stainless steel vats for fermentation.

The wines are matured in 25% new barrels for 18 months, with the rest coming from the grand chai of Chateau Mouton Rothschild. The wines are run off every three months until fining with egg-white in the traditional manner.

I have recently tasted the 2000 vintage and below is my tasting note:

Appearance


Bright and clear, it has medium ruby color, with garnet rims and legs.

Nose
Clean, with medium (+) intensity aromas of black fruit of cassis and plum, oak notes of cedar, kernel notes of dark chocolate and coffee, herbaceous notes of yellow bell pepper, maturity notes of cigar box, animal notes of meaty. The wine is developing.

Palate
Dry with medium acidity, the wine has medium tannin of ripe and silky in texture, medium alcohol and medium (+) body, demonstrating medium (+) intensity of flavors including black fruit of blackberry and plum, herbal notes of five spices, oak notes of cedar, kernel notes of coffee. The wine has a medium finish.

Conclusion

Good quality Pauillac with an intense nose of good complexity, the wine has elegance and structure, a good representation of the commune, with the tannin already mellow to the degree it is well-integrated. With also good concentration, it has reasonable length on the finish. A nice wine which is ready to drink now, it can still maintain for another 2-3 years.

2016年2月5日 星期五

Chateau Leoville Barton

History

Thomas Barton left his native Ireland in 1722 at the age of 27 years, to France, first to Montpellier and then Marseille, working for his maternal uncles Thomas and William Dickson. He went to Bordeaux in 1725 and became interested in wine and soon founded his first company which was later to become Barton & Guestier.

By 1737 he already made a small fortune and was well respected in Bordeaux and in 1743 he introduced his son William to the business. Because of the French law stipulated that estates of any foreigner dying in France would revert to the French Crown, Thomas had never bought any vineyard, but had rent an attractive home in Medoc, Chateau Le Boscq in St-Estephe.

It was his grandson Hugh who became the first member to actually own a vineyard later on. After Thomas died in 1780, the family possessions in France and Ireland was inherited by his only son William. Later on William’s fourth son Hugh became successor to the business in Bordeaux, beginning as a wine merchant in 1786, and with his energy the company flourished until the Revolution broke out in 1793.

Hugh and his wife Anna were arrested and put in prison, their property seized. Unexpectedly Hugh and Anna were released late that year and left France for a long period but Hugh continued to keep in touch with his partners in France and the business prospered to such an extent that in 1821 he was able to purchase Chateau Langoa and in 1826 a part of the Leoville estate, which became Leoville Barton.

Following Hugh, three generations succeeded him as owners of the two vineyards but spent most of their time in Ireland and it was up to Ronald to become the first Barton since Hugh to make serious contributions to the French interests of the family. Earlier Ronald’s father Bertram had bought out the interests of his brother and two cousins and was therefore in a position to leave the vineyards in their entirety to Ronald

In 1940 Ronald hastily left France to join the army as a liaison officer with the Free French forces in England and then in Middle East and the Syrian campaign. He returned to France in 1945 to find the vineyards in a very neglected state, but with great optimism he restored them slowly and made some memorable vintages.

Ronald remained at the helm until his death in 1986, and by 1983 he donated the properties to his nephew Anthony, who after studies in Ireland and England, came to settle in France in 1951, but with the low prices in market and some bad vintages the start was not encouraging.

The affairs of B&G were better and in 1954 Seagram took a 50% interest in the business and a few years later became majority shareholder. Since 1986 Anthony and his wife Eva has lived in the chateau.

Chateau

At the time of the 1855 classification, Leoville Barton is a second grand cru classe, with Leoville having 50 hectares of gravelly soils with a clay sub-soil, including large proportions of old vines. With 74% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc, the wines are typical of the St-Julien area, with well-balanced subtle bouquets and flavors.

The grapes are picked at maximum ripeness and fermented at a controlled temperature of 30-32 degree Celsius, in wooden vats of approximately 200 hectolitres. A modern crush-destemmer is in place and the wine press is also of the latest technology, with the fermentation lasting for about 5 days with twice pumping over per day.

The wine is left with the skins for about two weeks, and then are drawn off and pressed for the pressed wine to add to the final blend. Malolactic fermentation takes place in the vats, after which the wine is drawn off for ageing in barrels.

I have recently tasted the 2004 vintage and below is my tasting note:

Appearance
Bright and clear, it has deep ruby color, with fading rims and legs.

Nose
Clean, with medium intensity aromas of black fruit of cassis, plum and blackberry, dried fruit of prune, animal notes of leather, mineral notes of graphite, pungent spice of licorice, kernel notes of mocha, maturity notes of savory, oak notes of cedar. The wine is developing.

Palate
Dry with medium acidity, the wine has medium (+) tannin of ripe but a bit grippy in texture, medium alcohol and medium body, demonstrating medium (+) intensity of flavors including black fruit of cassis and blackberry, herbal notes of Chinese medicine, pungent spice of licorice, sweet spice of clove. The wine has a medium finish.

Conclusion

Very good quality St-Julien with good intensity on the nose showing complex characters, with a wide range of aromas, the wine has an elegance structure, with nice acidity, lively but the tannin is a bit too grippy. The palate has good concentration too with a reasonable finish. It is ready to drink now but can further develop for another 3-5 years. 

2016年2月4日 星期四

Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Bibo

This contemporary French restaurant is located in Hollywood Road, near Man Mo Temple, and when first arriving it can be easily missed because the sign is showing 'Compagnie Generale Francaise de Tramways'. Like many diners I suppose, it took me a while to figure out how to get into the restaurant, in which you need to push a button on a copper handrail on the side to activate the door.

Once inside we were greeted by the receptionist, as well as some nice decors before we were shown downstairs to the dining area. Famous for its decorations, the whole atmosphere is relaxing and joyful, contrasting with many traditional French restaurants which could be a bit too serious and stiff. There are mosaics of the TV game characters, a huge wooden cartoon figure, a scooter with the calligraphy of the famous 'King of Kowloon' Tsang, to name just a few.

Seated at a table looking out the window to the Ladder Street, it is another piece of art by itself, with the busy people walking up and down the steps. The table arrangement was a bit crowded, especially if you want to have some private conversations without being overheard. Considering the high rental in this neighborhood, however, it may be something unavoidable. Still the chair and table size is fairly comfortable for me.

Regarding the food, each of us ordered a different tasting menu, with Ivy on the 5-course Le Menu Gourmand and myself on the 7-course Le Menu Plasir with wine pairing. The amuse-bouche was a sweet corn puree with Japanese mushroom. Nothing fancy yet a tasty appetizer, it highlighted the chef's style of using edible flowers, which could be found in many of the coming dishes too.

Because we had different dishes, I would focus on the ones I had in this review. The first course was a pan-fried red tuna with puffed rice, eggplant caviar and green salad, pairing with a Provence rose. The slightly crispy crust outside provided a good contrast with the tender tuna inside, perfectly cooked and red in the core. The rose also brought up the freshness and vibrancy, certainly creating the excellent start for the dinner.

The second course was an avocado salad, with king crab, potato julienne and lemon dressing, pairing with a Bordeaux white. A signature combination of avocado and crab, the taste was good but my issue with this dish was on the texture. With the avocado made to a puree, it was watery to such an extent that the dish would better be served with a spoon. Not sure whether this was the intention of the chef, but with the wine further bringing up the crab fat flavor, the dish could easily have a very polarizing effect for diners.

The third course was a chestnut soup, with celeriac leaves, chestnut dices and foie gras shavings. It was a very rich soup with good chestnut flavors, accompanying well with the savory of the bacon pieces and foie gras. The chestnut dices also added a crunchy mouthfeel to this delicious dish. On the wine, the full-bodied Alsace Gewurztraminer provided the right weight and sweetness for the pairing.

Next was the pan-fried Hokkaido scallops with kumquat cream, Espelette chili and marinated ginger and chine, with an Alsace Riesling to pair. Nicely seared scallops with foam made from lobster bisque (I believe!) sprinkled with the finely chopped ginger and chine, the sour kumquat cream getting the bite to bring out flavors of the scallops. Another nicely prepared dish on the night, with the acidity of the wine complemented the kumquat beautifully.

For the main course I had picked the slow-cooked then pan-fried French pigeon stuffed with foie gras, plus crushed potatoes and pigeon jus. It was of small portion but wonderfully prepared, the dish presented quite a different tone with the other dishes so far. The meat was very tender and juicy, and pairing with the Languedoc St-Chinian red giving the ripe fruitiness and gamey flavors to bring the pigeon to another whole new level.

The pre-dessert was raspberry on hibiscus jelly, a nice dessert by itself and also serving to clean up the palate for the coming dessert, the matcha souffle with azuki ice-cream, pairing with a late harvest Jurancon. This unfortunately was not properly paired in my opinion. Despite the dessert was perfectly formed and the azuki ice-cream made to the right sweetness, the wine simply was not sweet enough to match, and mixing with the matcha flavors it was a bit weird.

On the whole the service was excellent, starting from the receptionist taking our coats before showing us to the table, to the maitre d' checking in with us on the food and everything, A good balance in the attentiveness without overly intruding our dinner. I was particularly impressed with the sommelier, with his diligence in introducing the wines and the characters, how it enhanced and complemented the food. And all the wines were also from France.

Finally for the price, the bill totaled $3,212 and considering the quality of the food, the restaurant design and good services, I would say it was money well spent. If you are taking someone to a French restaurant, and want to have a more relaxed environment, less formal in the setting, Bibo is certainly one of my recommendations.

My overall rating for the restaurant is 83/100.