2024年1月26日 星期五

Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Forum 富臨飯店


Which restaurant should I pick to celebrate my wife’s birthday? As she prefers Chinese cuisine, this year I have chosen Forum, as we have not come here for quite a while. In a very cold Wednesday evening, we arrived at the Michelin 3-star restaurant located at Sino Plaza in Causeway Bay.


Seated comfortably in the main dining room, the décor and setting had not changed since the last visit, with beautiful Chinese paintings and calligraphy, and the numerous recognitions founder chef Yeung Koon Yat had received throughout the years displayed on the wall.


We started with Braised Ah Yat Abalone with Goose Web in Hot Pot 阿一迷你鮑魚鵝掌 ($1,380). The staff has helpfully split this dish to two portions, served to us individually in claypot. The Yoshihama dried abalone had been braised to perfection, easily cut through by the knife, ‘sugary’ in the core, and the abalone sauce having amazing flavours. The goose web is delicious, its texture testimony to the impeccable mastery of cooking time and temperature by the chef, with also the thick meaty shiitake mushroom and broccoli complementing well. Excellent and a must order in my opinion.


Next, we had Deep-fried Pork with Dried Mandarin Peel in Sweet & Sour Sauce 陳皮咕嚕肉 ($300). The batter on the pork was very thin, with each piece fully coated with sauce of wonderful balance in sweet and sourness. We found that the shredded dried mandarin peel also did wonders by adding an extra layer of fragrance to the pork, without any weird or bitter aftertaste. It was so good we ended up finishing all the bell peppers, pineapple, and spring onion in the dish as well. Excellent.


Then we had Baked Conpoy with Crab Meat in Crab Shell 瑤柱釀蟹蓋 ($300 each). Beautifully golden in colour, with an appealing smell of conpoy, the large crab shell was stuffed with abundant crab meat that was cooked with onion and dried scallops, with spot-on seasoning to highlight the delicate sweetness of the crab meat while supplementing with savoury flavours of conpoy. Excellent.


The last dish was Sea Cucumber with Pork Floss in Hot Pot 魚香肉鬆遼參 ($980). Unlike the other restaurants where the minced pork tends to be quite salty, for this one we did not feel over-salty even without having rice to go along. The crunchy sea cucumber provided a contrast in texture, and up levelled the premium of the dish, also making the dish less oily compared with using eggplant. Very good.


For dessert, we had Traditional Black Sesame Roll 懷舊芝麻卷 ($90). Bringing back memories, I recalled having this dim sum regularly when young, but it was not offered in most restaurants nowadays. The taste was good, with a nice sesame note, but I hope it was thicker in size. Good.


We each had our own dessert too, with my wife picking Sweetened Red Bean Soup with Dried Mandarin Peel 新會陳皮紅豆沙 (free), while I had Hot Ginger Sweet Soup with Black Sesame Dumpling 薑汁芝麻湯圓 ($90). The sweet soup had an intense ginger note, a bit spicy but did warm the stomach comfortably. The dumplings were soft and chewy, with the sesame fillings appropriate on sweetness. Very good.


The bill on the night was $3,960. Many people might feel daunted when they heard about Forum and worried that it would cost a fortune to dine here. Certainly, it was not cheap, but there were many choices so you could order according to your budget. Most importantly, the dishes were all great, and service was also good. No wonder it was a full house on this weekday evening so advance booking was definitely required.

 


Wineshark Cooking Class - Japanese Style Char Siu 和風叉燒


Ingredients (for 4):
  • Pork loin - 1 piece
  • Onion - 1
  • Oil - 2 tsp
  • Salt - 2 tsp
  • Pak Choy - 3 
  • Quail eggs - 10
  • Soy sauce - 2 tbsp
  • Mirin - 2 tbsp
  • Honey - 2 tsp
Procedures:

1. Cut the pork loin in half, season with salt.


2. Cut the onion into quarters.


3. Heat the pot with oil, and then put the onion in, followed by the pork loin. Cover with lid and turn to medium heat.


4. Reduce to low heat when steam starts to seep out from the lid. Cook for 20 minutes. Then turn off the heat and allow the pot to cool down. Then cut the pork loin into pieces of 1cm thick.


5. Wash the pak choy and then cut into sections of 3cm long.


6. Boil the quail eggs. 


7. Mix soy sauce, mirin and honey together.


8. Remove the shell of the quail eggs.


9. Heat the pot with oil, then add the pak choy, quail eggs, pork loin, and then the sauce. Cover with lid and turn to medium heat.


10. When steam starts to seep out, remove the lid and turn to low heat to continue cooking for 10 minutes.


11. Serve,



2024年1月23日 星期二

Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Reveri


Last Saturday I came to Reveri for a special event, a one-night only 6-hands collaboration dinner, where Chef John Law worked together with two guest, Chef Rania Hatoum of Tart by R.H. and Chef Lee ZheXi of Eat & Cook, to offer an interesting 7-course menu.


Arriving the restaurant at Mercer Street in Sheung Wan at 6pm sharp as requested, we saw the three chefs already busy preparing behind the counter, with the co-founder of the restaurant, Jessica Kesumo, greeting customers and managing the front-house with her team.


The special menu cost $1,680 each, and I also asked for the 5-glass wine pairing ($980), while my wife had the non-alcoholic Alain Milliat Jus Sauvignon Blanc ($110). For the first two courses, the wine paired was Champagne Geoffroy Expression Brut NV. Refreshing with a delicate toasty note.


The first course was Chef Lee's Signature Egg & Toast. Inspired by the Malaysian breakfast of kaya toast and egg, he prepared a sous vide fresh egg with some caviar to replace soy sauce, giving a bit of savoury flavours. Sandwiched between the toast was some pork jerky, with century egg kaya puree on top. Dipping the toast into the mixed egg and caviar provided a rewarding feast of harmonious flavours, with the rich egg yolk integrating perfectly with umami from the caviar, savoury from the honey glazed jerky and sweetness from the century egg kaya. Very good.


The second course was Chef John’s Pigeon Yakitori. The confit pigeon was perfectly cooked and served in the Japanese yakitori style with a skewer. Very tender and juicy, the pigeon was seasoned well, with some freshly shaved black truffle on top to enhance the fragrance. On the side was a piece of pickled daikon, with some minced pigeon meat on top, to help balance and freshen the palate for the subsequent course. Very good.


The wine paired with the red prawn tart was Battenfeld Spanier Hohen-Sulzen Riesling 2021, with nice stone fruit of peach and apricot on the nose, followed by spicy notes of white pepper, and good minerality in stony. The wine was refreshing, with a bit of saline finish which went well with seafood.


The third course was Chef Rania’s Red Prawn Tart with Caviar & Tomato Soup. No wonder her signature, the tart crust, using dehydrated tomato, was so well-made, uniform in thickness and had great texture. With Sicilian red prawn tartare and burrata stracciatella inside, and generous amount of Kaviari Ossetra caviar on top, it was a luxury treat with amazing umami flavours. On the side was a chilled tomato soup like a gazpacho to cleanse the palate afterwards. Very good.


The wine paired with the fish was Montonale Montunal 2022. This Italian wine was made from a local grape variety called Turbiana, with some tropical fruit and floral notes upfront, followed by mineral and fresh herbs. Well-structured and refreshing.


The fourth course was Chef John’s Amadai Fish. The horsehead tilefish had been pan-fried beautifully, keeping the flesh moist and soft, while deep-frying the scales to make them stand up and crispy, offering two different textures on the same bite. Underneath was some shredded celtuce mixed with yuzu ponzu, providing refreshing acidity. The beurre blanc sauce was creamy and infused with Sichuan pepper oil to give a bit of spiciness. Very good.


The wine paired with the lobster was a Japanese sake, 三諸杉 純米大吟醸 露葉風 from 今西酒造 in Nara. The sake was made from a special rice variety 露葉風, offering nice melon aromas initially, with rice characters and hints of mint on the finish. Good match with the upcoming slightly spicy dish.


The fifth course was Chef Lee’s XO Chili Lobster. Trying to reimagine the Malaysian sambal, the chef prepared an XO sauce from shrimp, scallops, chili, and cuttlefish, together with a French x Malaysian sauce made from lobster broth cooked with sambal, blended, and then reduced, before mixing with butter and a bit of yuzu to balance. On top was the perfectly grilled lobster claw and body, with some pearl onions on the side. Supplemented with freshly shaved black truffle ($270 for two), this was my favourite dish in the evening, amazing in taste with complex and wonderful flavours. The spiciness was also spot-on to stimulate the appetite. Excellent.


The wine paired with the pork ribs was Domaine du Chateau Philippe le Hardi Mercurey Vieilles Vignes 2020. More towards medium body, the wine had nice red fruit, with also earthy notes. An easy-drinking Pinot Noir which matched with the smoked pork ribs.


The sixth course, again from Chef Lee, was Smoked Pork Ribs with Herbs, and Claypot Rice. Inspired by the Malaysian dish nasi goreng but using the special non-GMO highland rice coming from Sarawak, the rice was cooked in pot with pork fat, broth, and fish sauce, with shredded bay leaves, torchflower, and crispy pork lard on top. 


On the plate was the slow-cooked pork ribs, seasoned with the homemade paste of tamarind, lemongrass, chili, ginger, garlic, and onion. Full of wonderful flavours. On the side was some roasted apple with fish sauce, as well as pork front neck and pork intestine. Another great concept integrating Malay cuisine and ingredients with Western and Chinese cooking techniques. A feast in flavours. Very good.


The seventh course, from Chef Rania, was Mousse au Chocolat. Drawing a gasp of awe for its appealing presentation, the chocolate sphere had its core made from chocolate mousse and mikan infused with Grand Marnier. On top was a dark chocolate wheel, with some chocolate soil on the side. Good balance of sweetness, with the dessert full of rich chocolate happiness without being too indulgent. Very good.


Finishing with a cup of Coffee ($65), it was a highly satisfactory meal, with the menu showcasing the signature of the three chefs and their different styles, with each course also delicious and creative. Service was good, and I liked how the chefs (except Chef John) came to the table to introduce their dishes. The total bill on the night was $5,407. I looked forward to returning soon to further explore Chef John’s other dishes and hope we got to interact more next time.

2024年1月20日 星期六

Wineshark Cooking Class - Stir-Fried Pea Sprout Shoots 生炒豆苗胚


Ingredients (for 4):

  • Pea sprouts shoots - 300g
  • Oil - 3 tbsp
  • Salt - 1/4 tsp full
  • Ginger - 25g
  • Chinese yellow wine - 1 tsp
  • Garlic - 3 cloves
  • Sugar - 1 tsp
Procedures:

1. Soak the pea sprout shoots for 20 minutes. Wash thoroughly to remove any sand and dirt. Then wash again until the water is clean and clear. Then drip dry as much as possible.


2. Mash the ginger.


3. Squeeze the mashed ginger to extract the ginger juice. Then add Chinese yellow wine to mix well.


4. Chop the garlic finely.


5. Heat the wok at high fire, and when the wok is smoking add in 3 tbsp of oil. Then add salt into the oil. Mix well.


6. Add in the pea sprout shoots and stir fry continuously. 


7. Add in the minced garlic and ginger wine. Continue to stir fry.


8. Add in the sugar and mix well. 


9. Serve.



Wineshark Cooking Class - Stir-Fried Spare Ribs 乾炒排骨


Ingredients (for 4):

  • Spare ribs - 700g
  • Oil - 3 tsp
  • Shallot - 4
  • Garlic - 2 cloves
  • Sugar - 1 tbsp
  • Soy sauce - 1 tbsp
  • Salt - 1/4 tsp
  • Sesame oil - 1 tsp
  • Chili - 2
Procedures:

1. Clean the spare ribs and cut into cubes of about 3cm, then drip dry.


2. Cut the shallot and garlic into small pieces.


3. Remove the seeds of the red chili, then cut into strips.


4. Heat the wok at high fire, and when it is super hot, pour 1 tsp of oil in, and then add in the spare ribs to stir fry.


5. Continue to stir-fry until the meat turns colour, then cooked, with the fatty seeps out oil, then remove. 


6. Clean the wok and then heat at medium-low fire, pour in the remaining 2 tsp of oil, and then add in the shallot to stir fry. 


7. When it is half-transparent, add in sugar and turn to low fire, stir fry until the sugar is melted.


8. Add in salt, soy sauce, and garlic and continue to stir fry.


9. Add back the spare ribs and stir fry until the colour is even. 


10. Add sesame oil and red chili to mix well.


11. Serve.