Chateau
Boyd-Cantenac has the same origin as Chateau Pouget, growing around the Prieure
de Cantenac, established by the monks from Vertheuil, just west of St-Estephe. The
commercialization of the wines produced during the 18th century
generated huge amount of wealth for the priory.
Surprisingly
the priory came through the Revolution unscathed, and only upon the death of
Prior Jouneau in 1809, the lands were sold off, with some land went to Palmer,
but the largest part forming the modern-day Prieure-Lichine.
Although
related to the Prieure de Cantenac, the history of this estate started earlier
when it was purchased by Jacques Boyd in 1754. The Boyd family originally came
from Belfast, being wool merchants who emigrated to France during hard times. In
1806 Jacques Boyd was joined by John Lewis Brown, related to the Boyd by marriage.
In the 1855
classification it was ranked a third growth but the Brown estate was
subsequently divided and a section of the vineyard was cleaved off giving rise to
Cantenac-Brown. The majority of the estate became the Boyd-Cantenac of today,
but ultimately it was acquired by Abel Laurent in 1874.
However,
during the initial years the wines were sold under his other pre-existing
brands, and only his descendant Marcel Laurent again bottled under
Boyd-Cantenac. After that it came the Ginestets, who acquired and took control,
but selling the buildings to Chateau Margaux and using the nearby Lascombes to
make the wine.
As a
result now the estate did not have a true chateau and characterized by a rather
featureless roadside chai. Similar to other estates, it had experienced the
phylloxera, mildew and oidium, wars and economic depression, and the estate was
sold to Pierre Guillemet in 1932, who already owned Chateau Pouget. Today the
next generation Lucien Guillemet is still in charge.
The
estate has 17 hectares of vines planted at a density of 10,000 vines per
hectare. The soils are lean and gravelly typical of Medoc, with some areas
having more sand than gravel but little clay. The vines are 41 years old on
average, with 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc and 7%
Petit Verdot.
There is
no chemical fertilizer used for decades, and is one of the first in Margaux to
use pheromone sexual confusion against grape moth. Double-Guyot pruning is
practiced and hand-harvested, the fruit is double-sorted before destemmed, with
fermentation in thermo-regulated cement or stainless steel vats.
Remontage
is done several times per day, with maceration lasting between 2-5 weeks. Malolactic
fermentation is carried out in barrel with 100% new wood for the free-run wines
for the grand vin. Older oak is used for the press wine and those lots destined
for the second wine, with aging for 12-18 months.
The
process is overseen by Christine Metay, with annual production about 12,000
cases. Grand vin is Chateau Boyd-Cantenac, with the second wine named Jacques
Boyd.
I have
recently tasted the 2004 vintage and below is my tasting note:
Appearance
Bright
and clear, it has deep ruby color, with fading garnet rims and legs.
Nose
Clean,
with medium intensity aromas, showing ripe black fruit of blackcurrant,
blackberry and dark plum, oak notes of cedar, maturity notes of sweet tobacco
and savory, pungent spice of licorice, kernel notes of mocha. The wine is
developing.
Palate
Dry with
medium (+) acidity, the wine has medium (+) tannin of ripe and a bit powdery in
texture. Medium alcohol, it has medium (+) body, and medium (+) intensity
flavors of black fruit such as blackberry, dark plum and cassis, oak notes of
cedar, maturity notes of sweet tobacco, kernel notes of chocolate. The wine has
a medium finish.
Conclusion
Very
good quality Margaux with a fair nose showing good degree of complexity, the
wine has a good structure, well-balanced and providing a nice palate with good
concentration, showing a good mix of primary, secondary and tertiary
characters, all under the nice elegant style of a typical Margaux. It is ready
to drink now though can benefit from further ageing of another 1-2 years. 
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