The
estate was known as Chateau Rieusec in the 1855 classification, located not far
east and a little south of Chateau d’Yquem. At 78m above sea level the property
is the second highest point in the Sauternes appellation, but in fact the
vineyards are divided between the communes of Fargues and Sauternes.
The
history started when it was under the ownership of Carmelite monks. The name
may come from a contraction of Ruisseau, the name of a stream running between
Rieussec and Yquem, and sec, referring to the dry up of the stream in the
summer months.
With the
Revolution the estate was sequestered as a national asset and later purchased
by a gentleman named Mareilhac, already owning La Louviere in Pessac-Leognan. It
was later sold to a Monsieur Mayne in 1846, with a small plot cleaved off and
sold to Eloi Lacoste, proprietor of Chateau Pexiotto, a classified deuxieme cru
but later disappeared, subsumed into Chateau Rabaud, but that plot was returned
to the original owners, so there was no overall loss eventually.
The
estate was then passed to Charles Crepin, who bequeathed to his son-in-law Paul
Defolie in 1892. There was a number of changes in ownership afterwards, and
because of under-investment it began to fall into dilapidation. It was acquired
by Edgar and Marc Bannel in 1907, then Madame Lasseverie and her son-in-law
Henri Gasqueton, who later owned Calon-Segur in St-Estephe.
Next
came the Vicomte du Bouzet and his brother-in-law Berry, who later sold the
property to Gerard Balaresque in 1957. Then supermarket magnate Albert Vuillier
chose Rieussec when he wanted to buy a property in Sauternes, acquiring it in
1971. He replanted some of the vineyards and introduced new fermentation
vessels but a string of unsuccessful vintages resulted in the sales to the
Rothschilds.
The
Lafite-Rothschild family took part-ownership with Albert Frere, who at the time
also owned Cheval Blanc. Initially Vuillier stayed on at the property but in
1985 he was replaced as manager by Charles Chevalier until 1994, when he moved
to Lafite to focus there. Now Frederic Magniez is responsible for running the
estate on a daily basis.
Under
the Rothschilds there has been continued investment and revitalization at
Rieussec, with many regarding it only second to d’Yquem in quality nowadays. Most
of the vineyards surround the chateau, with some vines further to the east near
Chateau de Fargues. Today it covers 137 hectares of which 93 hectares are
planted.
The
soils are a mix of gravel and sand, over deeper clay, with the predominance of
clay tends toward heaviness and excessive water retention. The vines average 25
years old only, because of the extensive replanting, with 90% Semillon, 7%
Sauvignon Blanc and 3% Muscadelle. The vineyard is large and harvesting is done
in tries, with the botrytised fruit collected in shallow plastic trays.
The yield
is low at about 15 hl/ha. From 2000 vintage the fermentation is done in barrel,
allowing each aliquot to be individually managed and assessed. Elevage follows
with up to 30 months of oak aging, with regular racking, and the oak is
approximately half new.
Strict
selection means only the best wines go into the grand vin, and in poor vintage
no grand vin is produced. The wine sees a light filtering and cold stabilization,
and the lesser wines go into the second label Carmes de Rieussec, named after
the monks who once owned the estate.
There is
also a dry white, made from non-botrytised grapes, a blend of Semillon and
Sauvignon Blanc of which 20% is fermented in new oak, called R de Rieussec. There
are approximately 10000 cases of wine produced overall.
I have
recently tasted the 2004 vintage and below is my tasting note:
Appearance
Bright
and clear, it has medium gold color, with legs.
Nose
Clean,
with pronounced intensity aromas, showing stone fruit of apricot, citrus fruit
of orange marmalade, dried fruit of sultana, maturity notes of honey, sweet
spice of cinnamon, oak notes of caramel, kernel notes of cream, and floral
notes of honeysuckle. The wine is developing.
Palate
Sweet
with medium (+) acidity, the wine has medium alcohol and full body, with has
medium (+) intensity flavors of tropical fruit of mango, stone fruit of apricot,
citrus fruit of lemon zest, oak notes of caramel and cedar, dried fruit of
sultana. The wine has a long finish.
Conclusion
Very
good quality Sauternes with an intense nose showing good range of aroma
characters, the wine has good acidity to balance the sweetness, providing a
refreshing palate of structure and elegance. Good concentration with a long
finish, the wine is ready to drink now though can benefit from further ageing
of another 5-7 years.