Grape Variety Series 05 - Cabernet Sauvignon

Cabernet Sauvignon is a colonizer, replacing other grape varieties in many different parts of the world, but also a friend of wine drinkers as it provides the flavors that are so easy to recognize and make many non-drinkers starting to appreciate red wine. It is also easy to grow, as it can strive almost anywhere that’s reasonably warm.

It is a two-edged sword. It can overpower other personalities when added to a blend, but it makes some of the best wines in the world also. The blackcurrant and cigar box scented wines in Pauillac are recognized by many as the best in Bordeaux, and in California the tiny output of the garage wine with the dense Cab becomes the bid of many insane drinkers (including me…). The basic flavors are simple: blackcurrant, cedar wood, pencil shavings and cigar box. But through the effort to replicate that, there are other also wonderful and exciting interpretations, making it highly enjoyable.

Cabernet Sauvignon is actually a chance crossing between Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc. It needs warmth to ripen, otherwise it will turn out green and sappy, green bell pepper. But too much warmth makes it soft and jammy, cooked blackcurrants. Sometimes cool climates can also bring vegetal and minty notes.

The gravel soils are in Bordeaux is originally regarded as the secret, but actually the grape likes the warmth it retains. The soil drains well also, which is suitable for the late budding, late ripening variety. In warmer climates, gravel is less important a factor. In Coonawarra, the terra rossa over limestone produces good wines, and in Napa the alluvial soil suits the Cab well too.

High yield also makes the wine tastes green, so many producers practice green harvest to remove excess clusters at veraison. It has a high pip to pulp ratio so can withstand high temperature at fermentation and long maceration. It has a high affinity to new oak, blending well the blackcurrant with the vanilla and spice of the barrels.

It is almost never bottled as a varietal wine in Bordeaux, because it lacks the flesh in the middle palate and needs the rounder Merlot and perfumed, fruity Cabernet Franc. The climate also is fickle enough to require different grapes to reduce the risk of having no crop with late frost. In warmer climates this is not a problem so single varietal can be successful, as in Napa and Margaret River.

Top red Bordeaux needs at least ten years to come round, and in good vintage should last two or three decades longer. There is no mistake on the taste, the blackcurrant. Young wines have black cherry and plum, mature ones add pencil shavings, cedar and cigar boxes. At lower ripeness it shows greenness, a green bell pepper nose. More pleasant nose like tobacco, mint and eucalyptus, and blackberry and black cherry are also available. Over-ripe will bring stewed prunes.

For food pairing, Pauillac goes well with roast lamb, Napa with roast turkey or goose. It is good for all roast or grilled meats and game, as well as sauced meat dishes such as steak and kidney pie, beef stews, rabbit stews and dishes with mushrooms.

The best Cabernet Sauvignon that I owned or tasted:

• Domaine de Chevalier 2007 / 2008
• Cos d'Estournel 2004
• Ducru-Beaucaillou 2002 / 2004
• Grand Puy Lacoste 2004
• Gruaud-Larose 2004
• Haut-Brion 2004 / 2009
• Lafite-Rothschild 2004 / 2009
• Lagrange 2005
• Latour 2004 / 2009
• Leoville-Barton 2004
• Leoville-Las-Cases 2004
• Lynch-Bages 2003 / 2004
• Chateau Margaux 2004 / 2009
• Mouton-Rothschild 2004 / 2009
• Pichon-Longueville 2004
• Pichon-Longueville-Comtesse de Lalande 2002 / 2003
• Pontet-Canet 2004
• Rauzan-Segla 2001
• Sassicaia 2007
• Petaluma Coonawarra 2001
• Caymus Special Selection 2008
• Diamond Creek Lake 2005
• Dominus 1996
• Robert Mondavi Reserve 2003
• Opus One 2005
• Screaming Eagle 2005
• Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Cask 23 2001
• Montes Alpha M 2007