Grape Variety Series 03 - Merlot

Merlot has traditionally been Bordeaux’s other red grape, used to soften the stronger and more powerful Cabernet Sauvignon, without much personality of its own. However, things changed when the US drinkers started to crave for something easy to drink, requiring no need to wait for a long time in ageing, and Merlot stepped out into the spotlight.

Boosted by the demand from US, Merlot plantings in France’s Languedoc has doubled and now is France’s number one grape variety. It is also booming in Italy as well as the star grape of Chile, but with a bit of confusion still in some vineyards about which is Merlot and which is Carmenere. There is also the same issue with Cabernet Franc in US, Australia and Austria.

Merlot is grown in pretty much the same locations as Cabernet Sauvignon, and should not be a surprise as growers see the good complement in the blend of the two. But it has its difference. It is more suitable for a cooler climate and can produce soft, rich-textured, low-acid, and low-tannin red. It has an appetizing black cherry, plum, chocolate, and fruitcake flavors, with some herbaceous green streak. Most Merlot is made to be drunk young, because of the low tannin and acidity making it less obvious for the cellar. But it can age well as part of the Bordeaux blend.

Merlot makes soft, rounded, fruity wines that are easy to enjoy without food, but also good to pair with game, duck, goose and pigeon. It also partners with spiced curries and tandoori dishes. The good ones with a hint of sweetness can be good with ham or savory pancakes.

Some of the best producers of Merlot which I owned / tasted:

St-Emilion

• Chateau Angelus 2004
• Chateau Ausone 1999
• Chateau Beau-Sejour Becot 2007
• Chateau Canon-la-Gaffeliere 2006
• Clos Fourtet 2007
• Chateau Grand-Mayne 2007 / 2008
• Chateau Magdelaine 1998
• Chateau Monbousquet 2002

Pomerol

• Chateau Certan-de-May 2005
• Chateau Clinet 2007
• Chateau la Conseillante 2007
• Chateau l'Eglise-Clinet 2003
• Chateau Gazin 2006 / 2008
• Chateau Latour-a-Pomerol 2005
• Petrus 2006
• Chateau Trotanoy 2006

New Zealand

• Kim Crawford, Hawke's Bay Merlot 2004

Chile

• Carmen, Reserve Merlot 2003