This sushi restaurant is located on 17/F of The L Square in Causeway Bay, under the helm of Chef Motoyama. It was previously known as Ginza Iwa, but since last year, when the chef took over the business, he has renamed it to his family business in Kitakyushu, which is still operated by his father.
We have come to this place over 20 times, apparently it is one of our favourite sushiya in HK. The setting is neat and tidy, with a sushi counter able to accommodate 7 guests. Chef Motoyama is a person with a lot of flair, not only able to make delicious Japanese cuisine, he plays music, like to swim, and also good in floral decorations.
Since last year the restaurant has offered a sushi set at $880, but we have opted for the Omakase Set at $1800 instead. As usual, I ask Chef Motoyama to suggest the sake, and we start with 山口酒造場 庭のうぐいす 特別純米 しぼりたて ($300), just freshly released with a wonderful balance of sweet and sourness. Very delicious.
The starter features Mozuku 水雲 with fresh Tako 章魚 and a paste made by mixing okra with Yamaimo 山芋. The marinated sea moss has good acidity, highly appetizing. The slight crunchy texture is contrasted with the gluey mountain yam and okra paste, while the fresh octopus tentacle suction cup has a nice crunchy bite.
The second course is Chawanmushi 茶碗蒸, with Kegani 毛蟹 meat on the silky soft steamed egg custard, and the horsehair crab meat is delicate in taste. Together with the orange Bafun-Uni 馬糞雲丹 on top, and the wonderfully flavourful Awabi 鮑 at the bottom, I agree completely with Chef Motoyama that this is a deluxe dish, fantastic in taste.
The third course is Katsuo 鰹, with the chef smoking the skipjack tuna over hay to infuse it with a wonderful fragrance, then cutting into slices, and served with onion shreds and some bean sprouts with a homemade vinaigrette sauce. The salad helps to balance the smokiness with a refreshing acidity, and the crunchy onion also contrasting well with the soft texture of the fish.
The fourth course is Kaki 牡蠣. The Nagasaki oyster has been deep-fried and served with an egg and yamaimo mayonnaise, as well as teriyaki sauce. The oyster is cooked perfectly, with a crispy batter while retaining a creamy texture, not dried up. The mayonnaise helps to balance the palate with the crunchy mountain yam pieces helping to freshen.
Then Chef Motoyama brings us Karasumi 唐墨, drawing a happy exclamation from us as we love this very much. Cutting several slices from the homemade salted mullet roes, he torches the surface briefly to give a bit of char. This is in my opinion the perfect snack to match with beer and sake, with amazing umami flavours and good saltiness.
The first sushi features Isaki 伊佐木. The chicken grunt has a soft mouthfeel, with a good fattiness and a delicate sweet taste.
The second sushi features Chu-Toro 中とろ. The tuna weighs a staggering 196kg, with the chef using the medium-fatty part to make this delicious sushi.
The third sushi features Ika 烏賊. With a bit of rock salt and yuzu shavings to season and freshen up, the chef has meticulously cut on the surface of the squid, making it soft and easy to chew.
The fourth sushi features Aji 鯵. The Japanese horse mackerel has a sweet taste and is impeccable with the scallion which brings out its great flavours.
Taking a break in the sushi, we have a hot dish with Amadai 甘鯛.The tilefish flesh is moist and seasoned well, while the scales are deep-fried to crispiness. Together with the in-season asparagus and Bafun-Uni, it is paired with a special sauce made from Shirako 白子, the milt of sea bream, with great flavours. Simply amazing.
Continuing with the fifth sushi which features Akami 赤身. The lean tuna has been briefly marinated in soy sauce, to infuse umami and savoury taste to the sourness of the flesh. Delicious.
The sixth sushi features Shima-Aji 縞鯵. The striped jack mackerel has a good firm texture, and a delicate taste and a nice, sweet note on the finish.
Coming to the third sake it is 宮寒梅 美山錦 45% 純米大吟釀, from 寒梅酒造 ($500). It has rich fruit and rice fragrance, a fuller body and well-balanced, and not too sweet. A wonderful food-pairing sake.
The seventh sushi features Torigai 鳥貝. The seasonal Japanese cockle is large in size and completely covers the sushi rice underneath. Great texture with also amazing umami sweetness.
Taking another break in the sushi, Chef Motoyama cut out pieces of Tako 章魚 to serve us. The octopus has been braised well, very tender, and easy to bite.
Coming to the final part of the sushi, the eighth piece features Taichio 太刀魚. Torching it on the surface to vitalize the fish oil, the chef prepares the meaty largehead hairtail into a sushi, adding a shiso leaf inside with a bit of plum sauce to season.
The ninth sushi features Kinmedai 金目鯛. The splendid alfonsino is a deep-water fish, and this one has a nice fattiness, with tender texture and good in umami taste.
The tenth sushi features Buri 鰤. The piece is the belly of matured yellowtail with good fattiness, having a wonderful depth in taste and very tender.
If I have to say which course gives me the biggest wow on the night, it will be this Ramen in super-rich and delicious soup, made with an abundance of shrimp and fish. The degree of umami is off the chart, and I am sure people will just queue up to try this one. I really want to ask for another one to encore straight away even though I am very full already.
The last piece is the prized O-Toro 大とろ, with the chef wrapping the fatty tuna in nori, after torching it briefly to sear the surface to vitalize the fish oil, with amazing fragrance and flavours.
Dessert is Melon, and the chef has taken the whole fruit out and then cutting several slices to serve us. The melon is very sweet and full of juice. Very delicious.
Chef Motoyama also provided us his homemade Warabimochi 蕨餅, a summer favourite for many Japanese. The mochi has a q texture, a nice taste with black syrup and kinako, or roasted soybean powder, finishing our dinner with a satisfying conclusion.
The bill on the night is $5,170. Both food
and service are very good, with also a generous portion. Chef Motoyama is a
happy person and very entertaining, not shy in posing for customers to take
photos. As customers we always have a great time, and that’s why we keep
returning again and again.
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