This restaurant is pretty new, which has opened for six months only, and have Gavin Chin, who used to be the head chef of Brut! before starting this business, taking the helm. Located in Sai Ying Pun, at the entrance they proudly displayed a board with the hand-written comments from diners, showing their good feedback from prior visits.
The interior décor has a contemporary and hip vibe, using plenty of pinkish hue on the bar, with whitewashed walls and lightings recreating a feeling of a relaxing place in the Mediterranean. There are a few alcoves which presents into a semi-private space. With good energy and music, the only issue is that the tables are quite packed together.
We order The Chaos Menu ($658 each), with some of the chef’s signature as well as off-menu items. The starter is Scallops, diced and mixed with some wasabi and yuzu dressing, plus the crunchy jicama and cucumber, all put inside the homemade pani puri. This finger-food is refreshing, with the different texture appealing and the delicate taste wakes up the palate with acidity from the dressing. Good.
The next course has a great presentation. Featuring Leek, the chef wrapped them on nori sheet, pressed and cut to form a layer. In-between the leeks are apricot pulp and raisin, adding a bit of sweetness and fruity taste to the leeks. The kumquat sauce integrates the two components well, bringing a good harmony in taste to the dish. Good.
The third course is Chicken Liver Pate, with the creamy homemade pate having prepared together with cognac and celeriac to give a nice fragrance. Putting on top are chopped leeks that are mixed with fruit jam, as well as some green grapes and spicy toasted hazelnuts, drizzled with some olive oil. On the side is the freshly baked brioche to allow us to spread the pate to enjoy. Good.
The fourth course is my favourite in the meal. The Daikon, or Japanese radish, has been braised in a broth made from shiitake and blaze mushroom to fully absorbed the umami flavours, combining with the sweetness of the radish itself. The chef has caramelized the surface with butter, with some crispy crumbs on top to create a nice bite. With a bit of mustard the taste is amazing. Very good.
Coming to the fifth course, Lamb Rack. Marinated with shio koji and curry powder, the lamb is grilled to medium rare, keeping it juicy and tender, while the meat has the right amount of fat to give flavours without being excessively fatty. On the side is some greens, water chestnut and horseradish puree to balance the palate to make the whole dish more healthy and not too heavy. Good.
Before transitioning to the main course is the palate cleanser, featuring Pickled Tomato. With a strip of pickled radish on top, the acidity of the tomato is refreshing, having a delicate sweetness as well. Interestingly, underneath the chef has added some spring onion and ginger, the same condiment in the dipping sauce for steamed chicken, to create a more complex experience in taste. Good.
The seventh course is Rendang Short Rib. The beef short rib has been slow cooked for 12 hours, with the meat completely detached from the bone, very tender and full of flavours. On top of the short rib are a crust of toasted coconut and Thai basil, with also the Rendang sauce poured on the side to integrate the Asian taste into this fusion dish. Very good.
Accompanying the short rib is the Fresh Fennel to provide the balance. The fennel has been shredded to strips, then added with some jam and sprinkled with gremolata on top. Gremolata is a type of green sauce made from chopped parsley, lemon zest and garlic, adding acidity and vibrancy to the fennel. A nice complement to help remove the heaviness from the meats. A thoughtful side fish to go with the short ribs. Good.
The dessert is Kopyor Coconut Granita, refreshing and sweet in taste. The chef has added the two creams, made from coriander and coconut respectively, on top to create a colourful combination. On the outside are almond crisps, offering a contrast in texture, and also the calamondin vinegar sprayed to give a bit of citrus sourness to the dessert. With a complex array of flavours from the complementary combination, it demonstrates the creativity of the chef. Good.
Service is good, with the staff friendly and explaining the dishes to us in details. Together with the beverages, the bill is $1,817 which is reasonable. No wonder this place is so popular, with a full house on the night, as well as people waiting for the second seating while we are leaving. I have left them a note congratulating them for the nice food and service, and wonder whether it will end up on the board outside?
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