Located in the basement of Eaton HK on Nathan Road, this Cantonese restaurant has been awarded Michelin 1-star status since 2017, led by Chef Tam Tung. I visited a restaurant of the same name in Excelsior Hotel before it was torn down a few years ago and wonder whether these two were related in some way.
Seated at the main dining area, the décor recreates an atmosphere of Shanghai taverns in the 1920s, featuring plenty of wooden fittings and furniture, traditional Chinese paintings highlighting food and ingredients. There are a few private rooms and very soon all the tables are already occupied, a testimony to the restaurant's popularity.
We ordered the Signature Barbecue Combination ($368) to start, which include honey-glazed barbecued pork and roasted pork belly. The BBQ pork was succulent, with the meat tender and juicy. The glazing could see a bit more charred but still very nice overall. The roasted pork belly got a crispy skin, while the meat was well marinated and not overly salty.
Each of us ordered a different soup. My wife picked Double-boiled Pork Lung Soup with Fish Maw and Almond ($180) while I opted for Hot and Sour Soup with Assorted Seafood ($160). The balance of sourness and spiciness was spot-on, and the soup was delicious, with also plenty of ingredients. There were some steamed egg-white on the bottom, adding a nice twist to the original recipe.
Next came Golden Fried Whole Crispy Chicken ($598), which was a two-course dish. After showing us the beautifully deep-fried chicken, the staff sliced the crispy chicken skin out, which was served with steamed pancake, cucumber, spring onion and sweet bean sauce in a wrap like Peking duck, but without the fattiness. A good alternative also if you come with a smaller group.
On the second serving we had chosen Stewed Chicken with Black Bean and Shallot. Very fragrant on the aromas, the chicken was good in taste too, but as we were already very full after finishing the wraps, we decided to pack the whole dish home.
The Chinese Lettuce Simmered in Fish Broth ($218) was good as well. The lettuce was crunchy on texture, picking up the light and delicate flavors from the fish broth. Some Shimeji and Enokitake mushroom were added to give a contrast on the bite.
For desserts, we had Red Beans Soup ($48) and Chilled Mango Sago Cream with Pomelo ($48). While it was not too sweet, the sago cream was unfortunately quite disappointing, with the mango not flavorful and the cream too thick.
Service was decent, but considering it is a Michelin starred restaurant one would expect more. The bill on the night was $1,340 after a 30% promotion discount. It is a good place to enjoy some nice Cantonese cuisines, especially with this attractive price.
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