Wineshark HK Restaurant Review - Beet

This restaurant is located in Kau U Fong, Central, offering modern European cuisine with a focus on seasonal and locally sourced ingredients. Arriving early in the evening we were seated at a table near the window to the street, thus able to have a nice look at the activities outside while at the same time savoring the buzz of the open kitchen at the other end. The ambiance is not fancy, but giving a comfortable homey atmosphere that I feel relaxing and welcoming.

We ordered a cocktail to start, with me going for the Caribbean Punch ($120) while my wife had the mocktail Green Goblin ($90). Concocted by Flor de Cana 7 Gran Reserva Rum, Old Judge Bourbon Whiskey, Fernet Hunter (an Italian bitter) and Pineapple Juice, the cocktail is nice, without a strong alcohol note, smooth and refined, with a slice of orange garnish to add a bit of citrus note and refreshing sensation. A very interesting choice of branded spirits, it shows how the restaurant is not following the usual and proven path, but trying to braze its own trail in this competitive culinary neighborhood in Central.

The restaurant offers two choices, one vegetarian ($780) and one the normal tasting menu ($845), with my wife going for the former while I took the latter. To start we had the Amuse Bouche, which is a roll made with thinly sliced radish, wrapping herbs and marinated pickles with some edible flowers and aioli on top. Very refreshing and got a nice acidity to really stimulate the appetite, it is a great starter and from the sophistication and details we know our dinner today would be something spectacular.

The first course is Snacks, comprising of two dishes. The first one is a corn puree and aioli (?) with some caviar and chives on top, sitting on top of a piece of soft bread. The caviar has a nice saline note but not overly salty, balanced well with the sweet corn puree, and both the puree and aioli giving a nice creamy texture. The wine paired was a grower champagne from Christophe Mignon, which is mainly planting Pinot Meunier. A very interesting choice and again demonstrated the sommelier has a great repertoire of wine.

The second snack is a smoked eel with cheese sauce on tart. Upon biting it there is an intense smoky note permeating from the flavorful eel which blends harmoniously with the cheese sauce, complementary to the extreme on taste, and one of the most amazing combination I have experienced for a while indeed. A great snack that is worth coming specifically to try out.

The second course is a feast of sight immediately when served. The fresh Hamachi is chopped into small pieces, with peas to complement, adding a sauce prepared from whey and dill served on a bowl curved from ice, making the dish at the best temperature to be eaten. Even the plate underneath are decorated with leaves and wheat ears to make the it even more beautiful. A true enjoyment on sight and taste, the wine paired is 2016 Franck Peillot Altesse from Savoie. Another interesting and good choice from the sommelier.

The third course is an additional course ($150), offering raw Hokkaido Scallop cut into slices, with some citrus condiments on top including some fresh pomelo, plus a leek extract on creamy base as sauce. The soft scallop is delicate in flavors which is nicely freshened with the slight acidity of the citrus condiments. The sauce provided a creamy addition to the overall palate making the dish more dimensional.

The fourth course might sound weird, but it is so good I understand it should be enjoyed on its own. The Beet's Bread & Butter is a sourdough freshly baked, seething hot from oven, with a crunchy crust on the outside and a soft and chewy bread inside. The butter is also very good, not sure whether it is something home-made or not but it is very smooth and with a nice note and appropriate saltiness. As good a sourdough as I have tried anywhere.

The fifth course is Olive Flounder, with kohlrabi and herb. The fish is tender, with great texture and a delicate flavor, on top there are shaves of the kohlrabi which provided a crunchy texture contrasting beautifully with the fish, with the sauce prepared with different herbs enhanced the complexity further. There is on the side another piece of the fish but marinated and seared which provided completely different flavors. Wine paired is 2016 Bellevue Muscadet Granit Les Perrieres.

I have chosen Hay-Aged Pigeon over beef for the sixth course. On this course I was a bit surprised on the presentation, as the pigeon feet was certainly not appealing and I could not ponder the reason the chef decided to plate it this way. The pigeon breast is juicy and tender though, and the jus is also flavorful. The wrap in the middle is summer greens wrapping chestnut puree which is tasty and innovative. Unlike all the French wines so far, the wine paired is an Italian from Salgari Valpolicella Ripasso.

Next is a dish to cleanse our palate, with the apricot and mascarpone cheese (?) on beetroot juice. The sweetness from the fruit and cheese is surprisingly good match with the slight bitterness of the beetroot juice, a nice and new one to serve the transition from the main course to dessert.

The final course is Pumpkin Miso Ice Cream, with tarragon and granola. Nicely presented, the ice cream is also creative with the flavors from the two components apparent and blended. There is a tarragon on some creamy sauce in the middle to add to the flavors, and the meringue like crust also giving further contrast to the granola on the bottom of the ice cream. Wine paired is Camin Larredya from Juracon with a nice tropical fruit aroma and palate.

Wrapping up is Tea and Petits Fours, with the Red Dragonfruit, sweets, and a baked cheese souffle. The souffle is intense in flavors, and very delicious so I ended up finishing the whole portion (my wife did not want the cheese). I checked with my wife her vegetarian menu and everything was equally impressive and tasty. A very satisfactory dinner indeed for us. Chef Barry Quek also came to check with us the meal, and as you would expect we have nothing but praise.

Knowing more his background we ended up talking quite a bit, as it seems sadly we were the only customers in the night. It is difficult with all the events going on in town, and he shared that they are seeing big drop in business. While this is not unique to the restaurant and happening across HK, we certainly hope things can go back to normal soon.

The bill on the night was $2,894 which consider everything I would rate it as good value for money, and Beet deserves more widespread coverage. I want to share my appreciation for Chef Quek's passion to support local farms and produce, and his dedication to create dishes that are great on both presentation and taste. The choice of wine is interesting too. A place I would definitely want to visit again.