This Michelin 1-star French restaurant is located in Repulse Bay, on the third floor of The Pulse, with an incredible view of the beach. Leveraging that advantage, this restaurant from the Le Comptoir group has full-length windows so customers can enjoy an amazing feast of one of the most beautiful scene of HK while dining.
The decor is of interest too, modeling after a seafaring setting, with plenty of blue, coral reefs and other things to remind you of the sea, at the same time comfortable and cozy. So by now you can guess the restaurant is specializing in seafood, in particular Breton cuisine. Supervised by Chef Olivier Bellin, it is a sister venture of L'Auberge des Glazicks, his other Michelin 2-star in France.
I decided to go for the 8-course degustation menu while my wife opted for the 5-course version. To our surprise there are a total of three Mise en Bouche to begin. The first one is a puff with oyster juice. Something I have not seen before, the oyster juice is sweet and flavorful, and this is certainly an innovative dish signifying the style of the chef and his menu.
The second mise en bouche is a tart with beetroot mousse and a puff with lemon fillings and some horseradish shavings on top. While the last snack is focusing on the taste of the sea, this set is more looking at the acidity and refreshing sense, with both pieces explicitly showcasing that from the ingredients themselves. Also, I really like the serve-ware used which is elegant and fit to the dining experience.
The third mise en bouche is a cucumber with shaved ice plus a layer of cream cheese foam on top. Before transitioning to the appetizers, this one serves to cleanse our palate, from the delicate taste of the cucumber. But instead of just providing that one-dimensional taste the chef had added the foam which added the light in texture, yet rich in flavor cream cheese note to the snack.
Then came the Chaud-Froid of Cauliflower and Parmesan Ice-Cream, with Squid Ink Jus. The chaud-froid is a French cooking technique, applied here to cook the cauliflower and then cooling it down, served with a thick sauce forming a jelly. With the black squid ink jus added the chaud-froid cauliflower also became black in colour. The ice-cream enhanced the flavors with a savory cheesy note while the dried cauliflower piece further provided a contrasting crispy texture. A Thienot Brut Champagne is paired.
Next is the Fresh White Asparagus, with Burrata, Smoked Haddock Milk Foam. The asparagus is tender, in-season and directly flown from France. I particularly like how the savory and smoky haddock foam has an anchovy aroma while minus the saltiness, maintaining the finesse but adding that extra flavors to make the dish goes into a different level. The cheese also helps to give the body to the dish while not overpowering the palate. A great combination and a Telmo Rodriguez Gaba do Xil Godello is paired.
Moving to the hot dishes, a Pan-Seared Coral Brittany Langoustine, with Beetroot and Buckwheat Tartare, Black Pudding. When served the nice smell of the langoustine already assaulted our nostrils, and the meat is nice, firm and full of flavors. And surprisingly the beetroot and buckwheat tartare balance well with the crayfish. Originally not a big fan of them, this dish changed my perception of langoustine. A Domaine Elian Da Ros Coucou is paired.
Following is the Japanese Sea Urchin, with Oatmeal Foam and Ginger Butter Sauce. A piece of thin toast is provided as crouton to accompany, and mixing them together I found all the components are in great harmony and supplemented each other on the taste. Another creative use of ingredients, the same Domaine Elian Da Ros Coucou is provided to pair with the dish.
Coming now to the main course, the first is the Brittany Blue Lobster Lightly Cooked, with Brioche and Pork Head Veil, Curry Sauce, and Apple and Grapefruit Condiment. The lobster is simply gorgeous, so fresh and tasty, and I like the combination of the sea and land concept by having the pork meat thinly toasted on top. Adding the lobster sauce just made the overall flavors explode in the mouth. A Domaine Georges Vernay Viognier is paired.
The final main course is Confit Brittany Monkfish, with Gnocchi, Seaweed, Audouille Crisps and Parsley Extract. The fish is seasoned well, and the sides of gnocchi and crisps offer a good contrast on texture, all beautifully prepared. The fish meat is thick but moist, cooked thoroughly without feeling rubbery. Certainly another signature of the restaurant. Interestingly a red Chateau Paradis is paired and did well to supplement the food.
To dessert the first one is Buckwheat Texture, Carazin Ice-Cream. The flavours of the ice-cream reminded me very strongly on a toasted walnut on the aromas. A good job but comparatively this does not offer me too much of excitement. The Telmo Rodriguez MR Mountain Wine is chosen to pair, which I like the acidity and freshness, without any cloying sensation.
The last dessert is Strawberry Tart Version 2018. Using the crispy pastry strip to wrap the food, the tart has plenty of strawberry mouse added, again showing great balance in acidity and sweetness, There is also an ice-cream on the side, made from pitachio if I am not mistaken. The same dessert wine is used to pair.
Concluding the meal there is also Mignerdises, the bite-size dessert to wrap up the meal. Nicely put inside a box, each of them is rather like a jewelry, good in taste and sight. It is a good way to finish our meal.
What I am most impressed with The Ocean is how they are creating new concepts on some of the dish, while at the same time paying great attention to highlight the original and true flavors of the ingredients. To me that is always the demonstration of the power of the chef.
The service is also good, with the staff attentive, coming to explain each of the dish and wine pairing, and the greatest customer service experience in working diligently with the kitchen to change the menu to accommodate my wife who doesn't want butter or cream in her dishes because of some stomach problem on the day. In a lot of restaurants I would expect a hard time when raising this, but the staff here did nothing but trying their best to work around. We really appreciate their service from that perspective.
With the two degustation menu, one with wine pairing and a bottle of water, the total bill on the night was $4,215. Considering the dining experience, food, service and decor, plus the invaluable beach view of a quiet and peaceful Repulse Bay (because we just lowered the typhoon signal today?), I would say it is of good value for money.
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