Miyagi Trip 2017 - Day 4

Yesterday's dinner was really gorgeous, so it was with high expectation that we went to the restaurant for breakfast today, and we were not disappointed. All the dishes were great, and we got to toast our own fish cake, rice cake and seaweed sheet on charcoal. Not only the food was delicious it was also fun to do all that.

Unfortunately since we need to catch the cruise around the Matsushima islands we had to leave early. Driving shortly to the cruise terminal parking area, we found that the terminal in fact was a couple of hundred metres away, and with the cruise leaving soon we had to run to buy our tickets. A good exercise to begin our day.

Luckily for us, we were able to catch it but when we boarded the lower deck was very full so we paid extra to go to the upper deck. There were still seats for us, but all the window ones were taken so we had to sit in the middle. Not ideal at taking photos, I still managed to take a few. No wonder it was called the 'Three Scenes of Japan' the scenery is beautiful with the large of islands scattered in the bay area, and many having the pine trees on it. I can imagine how the place got its name.

The whole journey took about 50 minutes and after returning we went around the area visiting a few local shops, before settling to Nanbuya for lunch. Coming to Matsushima it is necessary to try the oysters obviously, and this restaurant is close by and specialized in oyster cuisine. I ordered the oyster set which included a grilled one with shell, two deep-fried ones, and a rice of grilled oyster with sauce. The oysters are good but the overall taste of the set was only so-so.

We then drove back to Sendai area, to the Umino Mori Aquarium. The place is not big, and the first impression is that it is meant for children only, as we can see all visitors are parents for small children. But after going inside we found it is much more interesting than we expect, with lots of different sea creatures. They have a whole floor dedicated to sea life found in Japan, and I was awed by the tank showing the huge school of fish swimming around. I have not seen many aquarium having that in fact.

There are other special species too, and it took a while to look at all of them. Going up to the second floor there is the display of other sea creatures found elsewhere, including penguins, seals, and even river ones like crocodile and huge catfish.

There is also an ocean theatre where there are shows featuring dolphins and sea lions. It was fun to watch and every time I am still amazed by the speed and power of the dolphin shooting up out of water. No wonder the children all had a good time.

We then drove to Akiu onsen area, to the ryokan we would stay on the nigth - Saryou Souen. This is a famous ryokan not just in the area but in Japan. We arrived quite early so there is no other guest yet in the ryokan, and the landlady introduced us to the room Kakkou. The room is big, neat and presented a simple beauty, yet you can see the small details here and there which highlight the attention of the designer.

Both the living room and bedroom is of tatami style, with windows on the side overlooking the garden outside. There is also a small stream in the garden so if you open the window you can hear the sound of the running stream which is smoothing and relaxing.

The balcony has some nice wooden chairs and a small table and it is a good spot to enjoy a cup of tea while savoring the view and contemplate. There is a make-up room leading to the shower room, where there is an indoor onsen bath, but at the same time you can go out to enjoy the outdoor onsen bath as well. This is the only ryokan so far I have stayed which got both in the room.

My only issue with the ryokan was that there is no wifi inside the room, and you need to go to the lobby for getting the reception. This is inconvenient and in today's world might not be too acceptable. But I believe the owner wants everyone to focus on the environment instead of looking at their phone?

The dinner is served inside the room. While I wrote that the dinner in the previous night was great, I have to say this one is even better. First, all the utensils used are a piece of art on its own, and no matter the presentation in terms of the different colour and shape, the landlady also took extra effort in helping to translate all the dishes for us so we know what we are having. The Japanese menu is also hand-written!

The first course is crab meat with egg yolk sauce, paired with some boiled vegetable wrapped in young ginger strip. It is delicate and helped to 'warm up' our palate for the coming dishes.

The second course is the appetizers which have a range of delicacies, including cuttlefish in cucumber puree, salmon wrapped in radish to resemble a chrysanthemum, beef & pork jelly, deep-fried sardines coated with sesame, as well as lotus root mixed with some sort of pickled beans. A wide variety of flavors and texture, and amazing presentation again.

The third course is matsutake and prawn soup. The expensive mushroom is highly fragrant as everyone know, and the soup has such intense aromas and great flavors that it is one of the best soup in my opinion.

Next is a very western style presentation, with a tuna tartar on top of a avocado and tomato salad, plus a sea bream marinated with olive oil and pesto. Both are prepared using local ingredients but foreign cooking techniques. Fresh and light, yet full of flavors.

The fifth course is sashimi with tuna, cuttlefish, sea urchin, pickled mackerel, big clam and blowfish jelly. The seafood are all extremely fresh, and I am most amazed by the quality of the sea urchin. Having tried many in Hokkaido and elsewhere this one to me is of the best quality.

Then we have the grilled dishes, including beef, sea bream, prawn, Japanese ginger, mushroom, sweet potato and fermented beans. The meat are tender, juicy and roasted to the right level. not overly done but not raw. The dish is also served on some hot stones to keep the temperature of the food, this again showed how thoughtful and the attention to all details.

The seventh course is steamed egg custard with shark's fin. The latter is one of the local specialty, and the broth used to steam the egg is umami, with the egg smooth to the extreme, just like the finest silk sliding down the throat upon swallowing. The shark's fin provided an interesting contrast in the crunchy.

Towards the end we have chosen porridge instead of rice, and it is one with mushroom and vegetable, full of flavors and filling, yet also having the lightness and finesse that you didn't think you have any after finishing the whole bowl. The pickles are also nice.

The dessert is chestnut cream with persimmon, grape and pear jelly. All the fruit are tasty and got an intense flavor, and this completes the dinner that satisfied all our senses of sight, smell, taste to the fullness.

Before retiring to bed of course it is important to take another bath in the outdoor onsen. With the quiet and peacefulness accompanying me throughout, all my work stress was basically forgotten and surprisingly my shoulder pain was also gone. This is the wonder of the onsen and why I come to Japan so often. Good night Akiu Onsen!